Discontinued The Grasshopper

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
LMAO @ "arse-blown methods" :)

So does that mean you're laughing your arse off?:D

Sorry but have to question your statement there.. How do you know these methods for preventing the hopper breaking were successful for a number of folks at all? Impossible.. they don't even know.

Looks like we have a misunderstanding here. I was not talking about methods in regards to preventing a hopper from having trouble. I was talking about the fixes people have been using to solve problems that crop up. A number of people have reported having overly hot back ends and diminished performance that were both cured by using the cleaning and dial-twisting, etc methods listed in the fixes thread. I thought those were the methods to which you were referring.

Your mention of "cure-all" makes no sense either, if their hoppers never broke why would you need to try a cure-all? I never mentioned trying any fixes or mentioned fixes at all before you try that one...lol, only methods to keep the hopper from not breaking in the first place.

Now I'm really confused. All I was saying was that the cleaning fixes wouldn't fix something like a defective heat sensor. I'm not sure what issue there is to take with such a statement.

Just to add tho if you meant the fixes then I think the those will definately be useful for some people as they can be tested and proven over time to work or not work.

Yes, I meant the fixes and as I said above, it seems to me like we have had a number of people demonstrate that they work to solve performance issues caused by dirty conduction points in the body, etc. The symptoms being cured - if memory serves - are excessive back end heat and diminished performance.

In answer to your questions (I know.. about time..)

1. Nope, different each time. Flashing red blue first time, just blue lights only second time, 3rd time only red lights.

2. Body was changed each time and got the hopper working perfectly for a few months each time.

But the back end has stayed the same and the hopper starts working again temporarily with the new body? Somebody smarter (with more memory left) than me needs to chime in. Are those all heat sensor issue indicators? Three bad sensors in a row? I'd be frustrated too (regardless of the cause).

Well, I'm sorry you're having such a tough time and hope the fourth time's the charm (if you decide to try a fourth time).

Ya know, it occurs to me: With three different bodies failing I have to wonder if maybe your're secretly a super-powered cyborg whose electronic super bits are messing with the hopper's circuits. :science:

Sorry. I've been watching a lot of silly superhero television lately.:p

Good luck!
 

Tdtour

Well-Known Member
Wow there are more warranty claims! They said in their last update that warranty claims have gone down, that really sucks to hear amd those who are experiencing the problems.

For those who actually have a working hopper, is there a technique to use it? Like the firefly 2, it is said to use the ff2 you should take cigar puffs. Is this the same approach for the hopper? Or is the hopper a ripper or sipper? Thanks.
 

Roland Blaze

Well-Known Member
Now I'm really confused. All I was saying was that the cleaning fixes wouldn't fix something like a defective heat sensor. I'm not sure what issue there is to take with such a statement.

Don't worry bout it.. confusion on both our parts i think.. just proves the vapour is doing it's job properly :)

Ya know, it occurs to me: With three different bodies failing I have to wonder if maybe your're secretly a super-powered cyborg whose electronic super bits are messing with the hopper's circuits. :science:

Sorry. I've been watching a lot of silly superhero television lately.:p

Haha.. you could be onto something, my friends tell me I have cyborg lungs, as i seem to be abe to pull on a bong much harder than them and about 4 times longer and never cough.. ever... maybe thats what could be stressing out the heat sensor?! lol

Any recommendations? I'm looking for some new TV series as just got donated a chromecast, got next week off and like the sound of silly super hero stuff? Think the last super hero series I watched was Heroes.. yup, been some time.. lol.
 
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ZC

Well-Known Member
For those who actually have a working hopper, is there a technique to use it? Like the firefly 2, it is said to use the ff2 you should take cigar puffs. Is this the same approach for the hopper? Or is the hopper a ripper or sipper? Thanks.

Not really any technique necessary. Set your temp, click on, and inhale. You can't mess it up. It shines the most when you rip it but you don't have to. It's my go-to vape when I want to just hand someone a vape and not have to explain everything about proper technique.
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
I'm thinking the same and like to order the LI Grinder myself. It looks very well constructed and good processed. Which of the three different grinds would work best with the Hopper?
Have just seen one review on it. Isnt there any FC who have one and can report? Maybe here's the wrong place.
 
Hogni,

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
The Lift Innovations grinder certainly looks pretty good, I use an SLX with ceramic coating. I would never buy another grinder without a non-stick surface again. (Which I'll never have to unless I lose the one I have ;))

I'd be interested to try out the LI with the fine grind plate, but I bet it gunks up, which will blunt the mechanism and require cleaning.

I've never had to clean my grinder and there's no way I'd spend so big to have to.
It does look like a decent product though.
 
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Bass Vaper

Well-Known Member
Did you send them all those hoppers and chargers and batteries? Was it 4 complete units? If not, how many chargers were replaced as bunk all at once?

I sent them 2 full units (2 Hoppers, 2 chargers, 4 batteries). I'll send them the second half of my stuff upon getting the first half back. That way it keeps testing controlled. They said the batteries were fine but were still charging them at the time they replied back to me. That was on Nov 2. They recieved the units 10/28. I still haven't recieved confirmation of them being returned yet. Going to be closer to 3 weeks + to resolution vs their previous average of just over 2 weeks +.
 
Bass Vaper,
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Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Wow there are more warranty claims! They said in their last update that warranty claims have gone down, that really sucks to hear amd those who are experiencing the problems.

For those who actually have a working hopper, is there a technique to use it? Like the firefly 2, it is said to use the ff2 you should take cigar puffs. Is this the same approach for the hopper? Or is the hopper a ripper or sipper? Thanks.
This is a pretty simple device to use. From this thread, different folks find the gh too hot and use the silicon mouthpiece. For me, I find it depends on the temperature setting. At 3, and if you place your lips beyond the tapered end, I find it comfortable to use without it. I also let my gh cool completely between pulls. In terms of draw technique, I find this beast very forgiving. But experiment and find what works best for you (for me, I tend to pull with exaggerated cigar type pulls).
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Sorry that you're having so many hurtin' hoppers, but it seems to me that the arse-blown methods have proven quite successful for a number of folks. Doesn't mean they're the cure-all for every issue, though. Did your hopper fail the same way each of the three times? Which parts did GHL replace the first two times?

Just to add tho if you meant the fixes then I think the those will definately be useful for some people as they can be tested and proven over time to work or not work.
I'm not including all your pertinent quotes about 'fixes' but wanted to chime in on this.
I am highly skeptical of almost all of the unsanctioned fixes, preventatives, gyrations and incantations enumerated in these pages and even of those elevated to 'fix' status. I mean this in no disrespectful way to the contributors or to @Vapor_Eyes , who is doing a great job sorting through it all. I still believe in and maintain a heaping helping of skepticism. This is not to say I haven't tried several of the fixes, having had now a lot of misbehaving hoppers. (see my previous post re: 12 bodies for 4 Hoppers).

What I mean to address is the lack of Scientific Method (maybe they've changed the name, idk). One of the tenets is consistent replication of results, as in, look, this "B" happens every time this other thing "A" happens. Anything less is to be taken with a grain or two of salt and require further study. I'm not suggesting that members stop trying this or that; sometimes great ideas are those stumbled upon. But it was in science class I learned the meaning of 'superstitious behavior'. No way have we (nor could we have) done enough here to keep the twain from meeting.

I'm loathe to single out a given 'fix' or behavior since I don't really want to debate any of the fixes individually. That would require a firm bed of fact to support argument in either side of the discussion and facts (DATA) are what is sorely lacking. Some folks may be super psyched that a fix 'worked' for them and not fathom why it did not 'work' for me or @Roland Blaze . Talk about it all day long but there's simply not enough information to resolve the conversation.

I clean Back end threads with a Blue-Tac type stuff. Clean is good. Threads are smoother. Is there better conductivity in there (of statistical significance)? No one has shown it.

Other fixes have seemed somehow unlikely. Is it reasonable to assume that corrosion would be eating away threads in Ti Grasshopper after just a month or two? Science says corrosion happens, but is it happening in a three week old Hopper that's not exposed to any harsh elements (other than heat).

The spinning battery. It is postulated that, because the contact on the Backend turns with the temp dial, this is causing friction to wear down the Hopper battery contacts or the battery (which, btw is very smooth at its' contact points). **EDIT --Input from @JoeMama has caused me to look again and I stand corrected on the following bracketed statements: [Has anyone noticed that, with Backend removed, you can turn the contact with a finger, separately from temp dial? The contact is more 'free wheeling' than it is fixed to the movement of the temp. dial. It may very well be that this allows for the battery to stay fixed in place as Backend is installed or at least while temp is adjusted.] ** We just don't really know which of these is happening in there.

I think one of my Hoppers actually may have been corrected by a turn of the clicker ( I was looking for that Back End loose pin Caroline described to somebody, somewhere). That one had pink lights and wouldn't charge, now it does and lights are back to normal. But it may just as well have been Hopper's anticipation of the Super Moon. We do not know, and that's my point.
 
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Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
The Lift Innovations grinder certainly looks pretty good, I use an SLX with ceramic coating. I would never buy another grinder without a non-stick surface again.

Hi Molten, I understand you but can't see a problem here. Opposite to alu grinders it's dish washer safe. So it will be very easy to clean.
 
Hogni,

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
For the record, blu-tack was only originally mentioned to clean threads to prolong their life and is not a fix, more a maintenance tip for Ti threads on anything.
Clean threads will allow better contact which could improve conductivity, so for some it has fixed problems but it rarely will.

------------

@Hogni, yeah it's not a problem having to clean and maintain things, but not having to is worthy of investment. That's possibly the best feature of the SLX which no other grinder offers.
A nice pair of scissors and a shot glass would be easier to clean still, over the clipper, and has basically the same effect.
The modular element of the LI clipper is pretty cool, but once you have it set up how you want it, which costs, it'll stay like that all the time.
The SLX is cheaper, grinds to perfection and never has to be cleaned. Just my 2c on the matter
 
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
Since its all convection do you think it matters if you don't grind up the herb at all? Just pull off buds?
I have used fine grind, medium grind, hand torn, and small whole bud and frankly prefer fine grind but it will certainly work with small bud or hand torn in my experience. Just not as dense of clouds or thoroughness of extraction.
 
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JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I'll bet you have the "checkerboard" wear pattern on the gold circle. If you look at a brand new hopper's contact (right where the positive tip of the battery touches) you'll see that it has almost like a scratch-off lottery ticket look to it.

Not to be oppositional, but do we in fact know that the "gold plate" is really a gold plate? Also, even if it IS a gold plate, I doubt that inside contact base-metal is anything other than some other conductive metal; point being that if the "gold plate" is actually worn, you're still going to get conductivity. Next point:

The spinning battery. It is postulated that, because the contact on the Backend turns with the temp dial, this is causing friction to wear down the Hopper battery contacts or the battery (which, btw is very smooth at its' contact points). Has anyone noticed that, with Backend removed, you can turn the contact with a finger, separately from temp dial? The contact is more 'free wheeling' than it is fixed to the movement of the temp. dial. It may very well be that this allows for the battery to stay fixed in place as Backend is installed or at least while temp is adjusted. We just don't really know which of these is happening in there.

Not sure about anyone else, but I have 2 hoppers and the backend contact is completely captivated by the temp dial; move the temp dial, the contact moves too. It can impart rotation to the battery.
The "Scientific Method" is based on observation and hypothesis based on observations. The "gold plated" contact DOES show circular-looking wear. They aren't "crop circles". They are caused by a rotating positive battery terminal. Or gremlins. But I'm not superstitious... it's against my religion :rofl:

Also, IMO the Fix Resource is perhaps best referred to as a "Tips" resource. Perhaps better still, it is a place where a consensus of observations has been compiled for the use of sharing ideas ("Hey, if you have this problem, try this...."). I believe referring to any of these potentially helpful tips as "superstition" is a rather unfair characterization of their purpose.
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
Not to be oppositional, but do we in fact know that the "gold plate" is really a gold plate? Also, even if it IS a gold plate, I doubt that inside contact base-metal is anything other than some other conductive metal; point being that if the "gold plate" is actually worn, you're still going to get conductivity.

But that's just it: I don't believe there is an actual metal plate under the gold plate. It looks to me that the gold plate is "painted" directly onto the circuit board. Why do this? It would eliminate any chance of an actual metal contact slipping out of place and shorting the unit or worse. One less piece that could come loose and lodge itself anywhere besides where it is supposed to be, and potentially be a danger. The downside of this method is the relatively quick wear of that spot.

Believe it or not, I've seen with mine own eyes that my failed unit had almost none of the gold plate contact left, and the new one had almost all of it intact. Also the components around what was left of the contact in my failed unit were dark: dark circuit board, dark circuits, dark solder blobs etc. It is my theory that when the gold plate area wears the unit struggles to get power from the battery to the correct place, and given the close tolerance to the circuits, a short forms, and then the hopper goes into "safe mode" to (usually) prevent catastrophe.

:2c:
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Not sure about anyone else, but I have 2 hoppers and the backend contact is completely captivated by the temp dial; move the temp dial, the contact moves too. It can impart rotation to the battery.
The "Scientific Method" is based on observation and hypothesis based on observations. The "gold plated" contact DOES show circular-looking wear. They aren't "crop circles". They are caused by a rotating positive battery terminal. Or gremlins. But I'm not superstitious... it's against my religion :rofl:

Also, IMO the Fix Resource is perhaps best referred to as a "Tips" resource. Perhaps better still, it is a place where a consensus of observations has been compiled for the use of sharing ideas ("Hey, if you have this problem, try this...."). I believe referring to any of these potentially helpful tips as "superstition" is a rather unfair characterization of their purpose.
Joe, I'm retracting my statement about the spinning contact. (went back and edited) I scrutinized and see that you are correct and it is fixed to the rotation of the temp ring.

As you also know, Scientific Method further involves testing the hypothesis, compiling and analyzing data, etc. Without those steps the observations can lead to an earth-is-flat kinda thinking. This was the intended gist of my previous post.

I will agree that the Fixes are more like suggestions that might work, might not. This seems to be the un-consensus. More track record would ease my thinking on their individual worthiness. I have no problem with folks describing what 'worked for them'.
And to take it really far afield, I think superstition and religion are of the same nature, in that neither has basis in replicable fact and both are based on unproven hypotheses.
Now, if my battery contact all of a suddenly took on the visage of jesus, that might be different...I'd better go check...
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
All well and good for the feedback here.... it stimulates further ponderances :)

But that's just it: I don't believe there is an actual metal plate under the gold plate. It looks to me that the gold plate is "painted" directly onto the circuit board. Why do this? It would eliminate any chance of an actual metal contact slipping out of place and shorting the unit or worse. One less piece that could come loose and lodge itself anywhere besides where it is supposed to be, and potentially be a danger. The downside of this method is the relatively quick wear of that spot.

Believe it or not, I've seen with mine own eyes that my failed unit had almost none of the gold plate contact left, and the new one had almost all of it intact. Also the components around what was left of the contact in my failed unit were dark: dark circuit board, dark circuits, dark solder blobs etc. It is my theory that when the gold plate area wears the unit struggles to get power from the battery to the correct place, and given the close tolerance to the circuits, a short forms, and then the hopper goes into "safe mode" to (usually) prevent catastrophe.

:2c:

First of all, it would be great if we KNEW what the inside circuit board contact pad is in fact made from; that would end speculations... Granted this is your hypothesis on how that circuit board is constructed....

Secondly, I am assuming that the designers of the Grasshopper are also users of the Grasshopper. Which implies (doesn't guarantee, but implies with a fair degree of certainty) that once in a while the guy who designed this thing looks inside at that center contact and says, in effect, "this sucks, gotta change from using shitty stuff to better stuff". Or he says, "Yep, it's fine even though it looks like it isn't".

But as an engineer who has made and designed ccircuitt boards, I can tell you without exception that there is no such thing as "gold paint" as used in circuit board design. There is gold plating of course... but, bear with me...

All of the general electronics industry starts with substrates ranging from ceramic to cheaper composites. These "boards" are supplied with a layer of copper, or gold that is applied by a process "molecular sputtering".
The circuit board is then acid-etched to remove the unwanted metal, leaving what we know as "the circuit board", as in, traces of metal lines and squiggles that have remained on the board after acid-etching the unwanted metal away.

The plating process happens afterwards; metal or metals (nickel, gold, silver) are added - through molecular plating - chiefly to prevent corrosion of the underlying copper trace (if a general circuit board), with an added benefit of conductivity. But the conductivity of the deposited metals is secondary to corrosion and oxidation resistance. In any case, plating does not "flake" (unless the process itself was inferior, in which case should be corrected).

I do not believe the "dark spots" are non-conductive. I have nothing to back that up other than that I have to give some credit to the engineering mind that developed the electronic design (It would be like a surgeon who never heard of sterilizing a scalpal before using it. I have to start with that hypothesis. So I don't know the answer to the Dark Spots. I just cannot fathom a designer putting gold plate on a non-conductive piece of shit. It just makes no sense.

Finally, on the matter of that center contact; my hypothesis is that that center contact is a pedestal; a metal cylinder that protrudes from behind the rest of the real estate down there, and that the other side of that cylinder is directly in contact with and AS the voltage input of the heater.

Joe, I'm retracting my statement about the spinning contact. (went back and edited) I scrutinized and see that you are correct and it is fixed to the rotation of the temp ring.

As you also know, Scientific Method further involves testing the hypothesis, compiling and analyzing data, etc. Without those steps the observations can lead to an earth-is-flat kinda thinking. This was the intended gist of my previous post.

I will agree that the Fixes are more like suggestions that might work, might not. This seems to be the un-consensus. More track record would ease my thinking on their individual worthiness. I have no problem with folks describing what 'worked for them'.
And to take it really far afield, I think superstition and religion are of the same nature, in that neither has basis in replicable fact and both are based on unproven hypotheses.
Now, if my battery contact all of a suddenly took on the visage of jesus, that might be different...I'd better go check...

Good deal, Vap... There are some items on the Fix thread that may be conjecture, and you're right; they're more like suggestions that have worked for enough users to want others to know about. But the most important reason the thread was created is that finding these informative experiences in this forum is like a looking for a needle in a haystack.
If I'm having trouble with my hopper and I'm a newbie to it, I'm like, WTF can I do but come on here and ask what possible solutions are. And then someone goes, "Uh, it was talked about but good luck finding the posts". And thus the Resource was born.

Perhaps a disclaimer should be added that this Fix Resource is intended to offer possible remedies for troublesome operation and should not be considered a guarantee of resolution.

Personally, I think Jesus would like the thread. Because I KNOW he'd have had a hopper if he could have. Then again, he would never need to fix it since he was always touching it. 'Course.
 

tubasco

Well-Known Member
Thanks @JoeMama for taking the time to thoroughly explain your thoughts, especially for your knowledge of the details of circuit board production. Upon further inspection with a strong focused light I see that you are likely correct about the protruding contact. The circuit board appears to be donut shaped. (Hole in the middle.)
But here's the kicker: the gold (in appearance) contact is absolutely, without a doubt, unequivocally "scratched off" of the exact place that the positive end on the battery twists against any time that the temp dial is twisted (while the battery is inserted, of course). And the area that's left where the gold colored removed from is not "dark spots." The only way I can describe is that it looks a lot like a solar cell. In other words I can see through the top layer of it, and it has a definitive grid pattern (spring?) just below its surface. When I adjust the angle of my light, the entire area that reminds me a little of a solar cell reflects the light back with an intense glare. It's very shiny, thin and transparent. Could it be a nonconductive membrane of some sort that needs the gold plating to conduct?
If I could post a pic I would.
Sorry for my layperson speak. I'm trying to communicate as effectively as possible :)
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Actually I know exactly what you are describing.

I don't know why the texture of the surface of the contact is honeycombed like that; I'd have to ask some specialists in "contact sciences" if I may use that inept term.

But I do believe that the "wear" that is apparent is not decreasing conductivity. As I suggested, gold-flashing (a very thin plating) may have been applied to prevent oxidation of an area that, without use, would tarnish. I can't back that up with anything, though, except that I know precious metals are used primarily for preventing oxidation.

My primary jist is to say that it would blow my brain to find that any electrical circuit designer - who would be a user of his own product - would happen to use inferior materials and processes for a highly critical contact point in an otherwise incredibly well made piece of work.
 

Icon13

Serial Vapist
All of my unprotected cells have that disk shape with groove, it's what holds the PTC and CID in place which is what stopped the GB in the posted link exploding (I know wrong word really).



All of my protected cells have the PCB on the outside with the board on the bottom and then running up to an additional top cap.

Lol, marijuana DOES affect the memory. You are absolutely correct, the PCB goes on the negative end.

I don't know why I thought it was on the positive end, the extra Groove I was referring to should be on the negative end. I still do not believe these are IMR cells I believe that they are unprotected standard lithium-ion and GHL is depending on the protection circuit inside of the vaporizer to cut off current once it dips below 3.7V.

I do not believe these are IMR because I would assume the battery would say IMR or Li-Mn (or something similar) instead of Li-ion. This is worrisome to me. I feel like if they were using the proper cell they would mark it on the PVC wrap because it is a selling point of their battery. Why would they pay for a more expensive, safer chemistry and not advertise it?

Sorry for the confusion, but it has been a while since I worked at that company. Thank you for refreshing my memory though.

Wow there are more warranty claims! They said in their last update that warranty claims have gone down, that really sucks to hear amd those who are experiencing the problems.

For those who actually have a working hopper, is there a technique to use it? Like the firefly 2, it is said to use the ff2 you should take cigar puffs. Is this the same approach for the hopper? Or is the hopper a ripper or sipper? Thanks.

I owned the FF2 for two weeks and I disliked it so much that I made them take it back and give me all of my money back (requested an RMA the same evening of the day I received it). Not once during that two-week trial did I get a single puff that I was satisfied with. Yes, the device has good taste. No, compared to the grasshopper you cannot get meaningful Vapor production. I feel like the air cools too much down the glass surface and you end up with a big honey oil mess under the lid. I tried every technique you could possibly think of, and I did not like the device at all. I'm not the only one who feels this way about the device. The grasshopper and the Firefly 2 are night and day. I absolutely love the grasshopper, it is amazing and that is coming from somebody who is coming from $500 Evolutions desktop vaporizer. I never had an issue with technique on the grasshopper, you don't have to stand up on one foot, while hopping up and down, and spinning in circles to get it to work properly like the Firefly 2.

On another note my Hopper only functioned for three days. I put a warranty request in and received a new body, but they told me the problem with the body could have messed up the charger. My charger was no longer charging at all. The red lights would blink a few times and then it would go dark. They sent me the newer version of the charger, and it is the same thing. I have a brand new functioning body, I have a brand new charger, the only piece they have not replaced that could be the culprit is the back end. Has anybody else had an issue with charging resulting from a faulty back end?
 
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Hawk

Well-Known Member
Lol, marijuana DOES affect the memory. You are absolutely correct, the PCB goes on the negative end.

I don't know why I thought it was on the positive end, the extra Groove I was referring to should be on the negative end. I still do not believe these are IMR cells I believe that they are unprotected standard lithium-ion and GHL is depending on the protection circuit inside of the vaporizer to cut off current once it dips below 3.7V.

I do not believe these are IMR because I would assume the battery would say IMR or Li-Mn (or something similar) instead of Li-ion. This is worrisome to me. I feel like if they were using the proper cell they would mark it on the PVC wrap because it is a selling point of their battery. Why would they pay for a more expensive, safer chemistry and not advertise it?

Sorry for the confusion, but it has been a while since I worked at that company. Thank you for refreshing my memory though.

IMR's are Li-Ion. Because they just say LI-Ion and thats all they could be any chemistry. But because of the application, high drainage, high amps and high temp the only real logical choice would be IMR. They would be foolish not to. And as I said before looking at the pic of the vented GHB battery it looks like a IMR vented battery. There would be more black burnt casing and wrapping if not. I have personally seen vented ICR and IMR batteries (my buddy's experimentation with exploding batteries) and you can tell the two apart. ICR's and other non-safe chemistry are more damaging and go thermal. The vape world uses IMR. The Crafty, FM and most others use IMR's.

But we will never know unless GH says something. We already know from Mooche's testing the GHB1 batteries are really crap and not one he tested is up to spec. So if they are non-safe and not up to spec then that is even more worrisome. I am assuming the new GHB2 batteries are because of the testing they got Mooch to do on the GHB1's.

https://www.reddit.com/r/GrassHoppe...per_ghb1_battery_750mah_bench_test_resultsan/
 
For the record, blu-tack was only originally mentioned to clean threads to prolong their life and is not a fix, more a maintenance tip for Ti threads on anything.
Clean threads will allow better contact

i talked to a tool maker and he thought that those grey-black specs that blutac picks up could be causing arcing (heat) given the amount of power this thing can generate.

I used blutac and the first time i was shocked to c how much i got. I had used iso for the threads everytime i clean and that is way often
 

Bdubbdiblets

Well-Known Member
Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
 
Bdubbdiblets,

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Anyone know if new batts being sent are all GHB2's? And has anyone noticed a significant difference? As I'm sure everyone has similar sentiments, my 5 GHB1's are all crud..
They haven't been available long enough to know. I have some arring soon, all of my batteries are of poor quality now too, lasting only a bowl or two.
It's possible GHB2 simply refers to a second batch, where hopefully there's a bit more QA along the production process, but they'll probably also only last as long. We'll have to wait and see
 
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