Discontinued The Grasshopper

AgentXero

Well-Known Member
550mAH recharge rate is totally fine, although slower is always better for battery longevity. I always try to charge at 300mAH when I remember to switch my Nitecore (default is 500mAH)

How do you change to the lower setting on the D2?
 
AgentXero,

AgentXero

Well-Known Member
Actually for real though, anyone think that using dental floss dipped in Iso is a good idea to clean the gap between the temp dial and the clip? Or not needed anyway?
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Actually for real though, anyone think that using dental floss dipped in Iso is a good idea to clean the gap between the temp dial and the clip? Or not needed anyway?
I'm pretty sure I saw MacGyver clean his vape that way in that one episode.

Seriously though I don't know if I'd introduce any liquid into the electronics end of a vape.
 

Kermitt

Well-Known Member
My 5 batteries are olmost dead after 7 Weeks of using. And I can't get any batteries in Europe :-(
 
Kermitt,

AgentXero

Well-Known Member
My 5 batteries are olmost dead after 7 Weeks of using. And I can't get any batteries in Europe :-(

Blonde girl walks into the doctors office, he says "what's wrong?" She replies, "everyspot on my body hurts!" She shows him by poking spots on her body, "Look it hurts here, and here, and here!" Doctor takes a quick look, and says, "hm yes, it appears that you have a sprained finger."

Joke reminded me of your predicament because maybe you just a bad charger?

:peace:
 

Kermitt

Well-Known Member
I have the XTAR VP4, only use 0,25 A. Backend gets very warm. The batteries charge fully, but most of the power are gone. The lights flickering light, even with a new battery.
 
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Kermitt,

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Actually for real though, anyone think that using dental floss dipped in Iso is a good idea to clean the gap between the temp dial and the clip? Or not needed anyway?
It's funny you mention that as after I posted my fix earlier I looked in the gap below the dial by holding my Grasshopper up in front of a light. I saw some specks of dust so I tried using dental floss, it didn't get any dust out. I didn't use iso, if you do I would make sure the backend is unscrewed from the hopper.

It felt like the floss could get stuck in there easily and cause problems, I wouldn't recommend it. If you need to use iso I would use a q-tip to apply it.

As for the dust, I think the best option is compressed air. Unfortunately I don't have any at the moment. I was still able to blow most of the dust out of the gap.

My warm backend fix is still working after changing the battery at least 4 times. I had planned on cleaning the backend threads with iso but I don't see the need anymore.

Happy hopping everyone!
 

kingfisher

Well-Known Member
Update, recieved my sst replacement back end a day early according to usps. Seems to happen that way from Co to mn. Gap between indicator and temp dial seems to be smaller. Edit: the gap is significantly smaller. I will measure on Monday before swnding back. I'm thinking 0.030" difference. Threads on back end seem silky smooth.

Anyway, all I can say is wow. This has much improved reliability. Performance is good, as I can consistently get the same result. Also the back end only heats up on 5 and it is consistent, not intermittent. Previously I would get high back end heat on any level randomly. Almost like a short,but I have cleaned the threads and gap between the heater level dial and indicator. With alcohol swabs and compressed air.

Technically i would never expect to hear this from hopper labs, but the clicking seems faster. Indicating the controller is firing the heater at a higher frequency. I have suggested in the past HL is using a pulsed power signal, ie the clicking. This also supports my idea that faster pulsing would lead to better temperature control. However my experience is only one case.

It would be great if any other warranty replacements know if their 'clicking' got faster after replacing the backend.
 
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fogbank

Well-Known Member
I got tired of waiting for my January 2016 Ti pre-order to ship so I purchased a SS unit from an ebay seller. I've since ordered 3 spare batteries, a Nitecore D4 charger, and a Livescribe pen case for it (obviously I've gone all-in on this one!).

After a minimal learning curve I've managed to get huge clouds out of it, hitting dry on setting 3.5-4. My back end has not even gotten slightly warm (yet). I've been clicking it off between hits, and I only take 1 or 2 hits per session. So far battery life seems acceptable to me, but I've only recharged after light usage.

My first vape was an MFLB, purchased in 2010 when about the only portables available were it and the original Iolite. I've since moved on to the Thermovape T1, Solo, Inhalater XP, Pax, Pinnacle Pro, FF1, FF2, and now the Hopper.

The Grasshopper is actually remarkably similar to the Thermovape T1 in general design and the way it produces vapor. I imagine it being like what the T1 would have been had it continued to evolve from 2011/2012. The T1 has a bowl on top with a bottom screen that a cap and mouthpiece (also with a screen) screw onto. Directly below the bowl there is a heater and a series of holes that air is drawn through. Below that is a battery chamber (holds 2 LifePO4 batteries). You activate the heater by pressing up on the bottom of the battery chamber, which allows the positive terminal of the battery to make contact with the heater. Even the vapor produced by the GH feels similar to the T1.

I really loved the T1 back in the day, and always hoped that they would continue to improve on it (the Cera, which was the follow-up to the T1 never appealed to me with its striking resemblance to a dildo).

Using the Grasshopper made me realize how much it is like the ultimate evolution of the Thermovape T1 (pun intended).
 

lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
I'm loving my unit. Received it today with 8 batteries + 2 extra silicon mouthpieces. No problems so far (backend doesn't get hot), every single battery was tested two times each today with multiple friends at uni.

I'm currently using a nitecore i2 to charge two batteries at the same time. I'm really impressed about the taste in this vaporizer, you can really tell the difference in flavor between different strains.

Also tested it with a bit of hashish, sandwiching it between ground herbs. It works amazing at temperature 4, using the silicon mouthpiece dry. And I noticed that the tip of putting your lips a little further really enhances the experience when using this device, you can feel the unit 'throwing' hot vapor in your lungs without hurting your lips.

Also it's sooo little and sleek, I love the looks of it.

My future aquisitions are mostly:

Ratchet's leather case
A nitecore d4 to charge half of my batteries at once
A pair of 4x1 battery caps from delta3dstudios
A pair of black dood tubes
A lotus j-hook
A 14mm Y bowl splitter glasspiece
A pelican case to fit everything including a large santa cruz shredder and maybe an mflb orbiter (open to suggestions here)

Also I didn't received the promised leather sleeve, I'm sending an email right now about this subject. This is maybe my only complain so far. :tup:
 

VimFuego

Member
I've been getting an extremely hot backend, although the hopper seems to be vaping fine. I use it set to 5.

However, after reading a comment earlier about moving the temp dial back and forwards a few times, I tried this, moving the dial gently backwards from lowest to highest about ten times.

Filled it again and still set on 5, I almost got combustion. Any setting above 3.5 seems to almost combust. I now have to set it at 3 to get the same effect as at 5 previously.
I think the backend is not getting as hot, but still gets quite warm.

Very strange.
 

CarlosSpiceyWeiner

Well-Known Member
Also I didn't received the promised leather sleeve, I'm sending an email right now about this subject. This is maybe my only complain so far. :tup:

Neither did I. Ordered on June 18, 2015.

Plus I didn't get an explanation. About if and when my $30 SS case is ever coming or even being made.

If not, they should just refund me.
 
CarlosSpiceyWeiner,

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
I've been getting an extremely hot backend, although the hopper seems to be vaping fine. I use it set to 5.

However, after reading a comment earlier about moving the temp dial back and forwards a few times, I tried this, moving the dial gently backwards from lowest to highest about ten times.

Filled it again and still set on 5, I almost got combustion. Any setting above 3.5 seems to almost combust. I now have to set it at 3 to get the same effect as at 5 previously.
I think the backend is not getting as hot, but still gets quite warm.

Very strange.
Perhaps there is some debris in the temp dial gap that got shifted around. I would keep working the temp dial if I were you.

I was the one who posted that fix. What worked for me was moving the temp dial very fast from min to max. You might want to try going faster until it feels smooth.

If that doesn't work I would remove the backend and clean the gap with isopropyl alcohol.
 

Skored

Well-Known Member
Regarding loading difficulties, I've settled on just putting in a super small nug - no fuss and super easy. I'll take a few rips at 3.5, and then give it a stir with a dabber (or use the clip if I'm on the go). It's super dry and crumbles to a fine grind. The remaining hits are dense as fuck.

I do understand that opening and stirring are not ideal on the go, so this may not be for everyone. But it's what I've found to work well, and not to mention the incredible flavor of my unbroken trichomes!
 

AgentXero

Well-Known Member
Finally for the first time took a qtip dipped in iso and did a quick few swipes on both back end threads and got some black gunk. Definitey some kind of machinery grease I assume. Probably known by some of you already, but I recommend for everyone to do this first thing upon receiving your hoppers.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
On my "bad" battery it does get a tiny bit warm, but it's barely perceptible. On the good battery it is as cool as a room temperature Grasshopper.

There's been many references to "bad batteries"...Does anyone here know how a battery can be "bad" as such that it will cause the GH (or any device, for that matter) to "get hot" --- in a place that is not where the battery is located? In other words, if the battery itself is not getting hot, and is causing something else to get hot (the "back end"), how is that a "bad battery"?? To me it's a great battery, pushing out all that current to make heat somewhere in the resistive circuit. The resistive circuit in the back end would be the potentiometer (or whatever it's called these days).
@Vapor_Eyes , your fix sounds spot on, and I'd love to hear more input from everyone dealing with this hot back end problem.

Can I suggest a "Grasshopper Fixes" thread? Maybe added to Resources? At a minimum, we could put this important fix, and the video of how to tighten the mouthpiece screen.

This is great info and too easily buried in this long thread. It would be great if all fixes were easily available just a click away. Just a thought...

Dear God, let there be a Grasshopper Fixes thread, and let it thrive with solid information so that this place becomes the Bible of Grasshopper Fixes. Amen.

And I noticed that the tip of putting your lips a little further really enhances the experience when using this device, you can feel the unit 'throwing' hot vapor in your lungs without hurting your lips.

So your lips stay cool but your lungs get hot vapor. Is that a beneficial tradeoff? :hmm:
 
JoeMama,
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syrupy

Authorized Buyer
Dear God, let there be a Grasshopper Fixes thread, and let it thrive with solid information so that this place becomes the Bible of Grasshopper Fixes. Amen.

So it shall be. (Obviously, warranty service is a good option also.)

Potential fix for hot back end issue:


I found that very interesting, especially the part about the temp dial. Thanks for posting it.

My backend has slowly been getting warmer the past week or two. It's more noticeable on one of my two batteries. It's not "hot" yet, so I didn't think it was broken and figured I'd wait till I get my preorder if I chose to do anything about it.

I had a half used chamber in my Grasshopper while I was reading that post, so I didn't want to mess with iso obviously.

I decided to just try moving the temp dial back and forth as mentioned in the Reddit post you quoted. I held the clip with one hand and rotated the temp dial very fast between minimum and maximum. The movement smoothed out while I did this. I probably did that for 5-10 seconds, and then set it back to 4, my usual temp setting.

I was amazed to find that the backend is no longer getting warm. On my "bad" battery it does get a tiny bit warm, but it's barely perceptible. On the good battery it is as cool as a room temperature Grasshopper.

My guess is there was some lint or dust or grease in there. It looked clean but due to the nature of the hopper's electrical connections even a tiny speck of dust could potentially cause issues. I use the leather sleeve which leaves the dial exposed, and I also always recharge externally, so I unscrew the backend a lot. A little maintenance is to be expected, but it was way easier to fix than I expected.

It could be a coincidence but it's worth a try at least for anyone with a hot backend. I should note that my backend never felt hot enough to burn me, but it was gradually getting warmer as the days went by.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stuck on flashing red/blue lights

r/GrassHopperVape

Hopper was stuck on Red/Blue flashing (Sensor Damage) Lights. here's how I fixed it

u/Reeces_Pieces10m

I should pre-face this by saying that I could tell my Hopper needed to be cleaned and it had been about 2 weeks since I last cleaned it. However, it still worked fairly well and I would scrape out abv with a dry q-tip after using it and I was fairly busy, so I kept putting it off.

Well this morning I thought to myself "I should really clean my GH. I will right after I vape 1 bowl." So I go to do that and I get the sensor damage LEDs. Tried it again and same shit.

1st I went ahead and cleaned it with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol and then let the front end soak for a few minutes before going back and scrubbing it with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol again. I then carefully cleaned the battery contact on the back-end as well as the threads on the back-end with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. I noticed a good bit of black gunk coming off on the q-tips whilst cleaning the back-end battery contact and back-end threads. Then, I left my GH in it's 3 separate pieces and left it out to dry for 20 minutes.

The next time I tried to use it I got the "Straight to Blue" problem. The LED would stay red for like 1 second and then immediately turn blue and no heat would be produced while drawing.

Well then, I unscrewed the back-end and put in a different battery(I'm pretty sure it's removing the back-end and putting it back on that helped here, not changing the battery). Then, I fiddled with the temp dial; turning it all the way back and forth a few times and I noticed that as I moved it, some solid black gunk came out from the small gap on the back-end that is under the temp dial (note: I usually never touch the temp dial and just leave it on 5). I wiped this black gunk off of my hopper now that it had been exposed.

I then left it on temp. 3 and took a draw and it worked fine. Then I changed it back to 5 and it still worked fine and it is back to being normal. Just put in the other battery and it works as well.

What is that black gunk you ask? I'm pretty confident that it is grease/oil/sweat from being touched by human skin. It can happen during the manufacturing and repair processes and it can also happen by being handheld by ,you, the user. All of those places where the gunk had built up was a result of holding my back-end piece with my bare hands. If you are screwing and unscrewing your back-end frequently like I am you will be more prone to this. Also, if you never move your temp dial too much you will have a similar problem on the gap of your back-end. The gunk will get caught there and will only be forced out by moving the temp dial.

The black gunk is not electrically conductive and will cause all sorts of electrical problems such as voltage drop.

So, make sure your back-end is clean(the threads and battery contact especially) and don't forget that gunk can also build up in the gap under the temp dial and to just move the temp dial back and forth to force it outside the gap where you can wipe it off.
 
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lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
Well that was fast... I guess now I'm feeling the full hopper labs experience: my grasshopper is combusting even on temperature 3 after showing some red and blue lights flashing. Warranty request created, now my wait begins (again). :rip: :shrug:
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Grasshopper mouthpiece screen assembly instructions:


Rotate clicker to fix hot back end:

Hi.
My back end gets hot sometimes but I turned the clicker anti clockwise when in on position a half turn and now it is cool most of the time.


Hopper Labs troubleshooting flowchart:


troubleshooting_guide.c72a3ac401e0.pdf
 
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