Discontinued The Grasshopper

[johnnyCanuck]

i would add it.

this actually happened to me on the very first day i got my hopper and my heart started racing. i somehow managed to gather up the brain cells to check the back end and saw that it still needed some more twisting. after that it was all good.

and tomorrow marks my two weeks of happy hopping with my hopper!

Actually, the back end doesn't have to be screwed in all the way to get rid of the flickering blue lights. There are times when the flickering start with the backend screwed in tight. I slowly unscrew it until the lights are solid while I'm taking my draw.

 

[JoeMama]

I'll be interested to hear the results of this experiment

I just did a DetoxIT trial, and for those of you who don't want to read the details... GET SOME.

just using the D-solution here. This is all that's necessary for the threads. If the backend contact is plated, I'd be surprised, and I can't really tell what that inside contact is, but I'm pretty sure there's no gold plating on this device. So, I personally don't believe the G-solution is necessary. The D-solution is sufficient for the contacts. And to those that disagree, I admit you are probably adding some benefit to the contacts with the G-solution. But by the time the contacts degrade THAT much, we will be vaping with Grasshopper's third generation product... I just think it's overkill.

The Pen is great, because with the threads being milled so fine on the hopper, the firm point of the pen easily glides along the threads as you turn the body/backend while holding the tip gently but firmly against the threads. Like a phonograph needle moving along the record grooves (remember, kids?!).

Wiping the threads afterwards with a clean cloth (use white so you really see what this stuff does), you'll see a goodly amount of that green-black residue. Keep wiping, pressing into the threads (like you're screwing the cloth into/onto the threads. The directions say to repeat the application and wiping until there's no more residue. I didn't do that; I only applied once.

I gave a quick pen-rub on the backend contact, and get this - the Pen body fits perfectly into the hopper body and lands the pen tip right on the center contact inside! A litter jiggle of the pen to move the tip around just for a second, and then use a Q-Tip to rub the contact. Note here: there was virtually no residue on either contact in my case (I had previously kept them clean-looking, otherwise).

I had said that since I got my hopper, I hardly experience a warm backend but I have noticed that the clip would carry the tell-tell sign of inefficiiency because it gets relatively hotter than the backend due to its narrow form. I can say quite impressively that the clip was COOL on my first hit.

This stuff is a must have in my book.

 

[Kalessin]

I just did a DetoxIT trial, and for those of you who don't want to read the details... GET SOME.

just using the D-solution here. This is all that's necessary for the threads. If the backend contact is plated, I'd be surprised, and I can't really tell what that inside contact is, but I'm pretty sure there's no gold plating on this device. So, I personally don't believe the G-solution is necessary. The D-solution is sufficient for the contacts. And to those that disagree, I admit you are probably adding some benefit to the contacts with the G-solution. But by the time the contacts degrade THAT much, we will be vaping with Grasshopper's third generation product... I just think it's overkill.

The Pen is great, because with the threads being milled so fine on the hopper, the firm point of the pen easily glides along the threads as you turn the body/backend while holding the tip gently but firmly against the threads. Like a phonograph needle moving along the record grooves (remember, kids?!).

Wiping the threads afterwards with a clean cloth (use white so you really see what this stuff does), you'll see a goodly amount of that green-black residue. Keep wiping, pressing into the threads (like you're screwing the cloth into/onto the threads. The directions say to repeat the application and wiping until there's no more residue. I didn't do that; I only applied once.

I gave a quick pen-rub on the backend contact, and get this - the Pen body fits perfectly into the hopper body and lands the pen tip right on the center contact inside! A litter jiggle of the pen to move the tip around just for a second, and then use a Q-Tip to rub the contact. Note here: there was virtually no residue on either contact in my case (I had previously kept them clean-looking, otherwise).

I had said that since I got my hopper, I hardly experience a warm backend but I have noticed that the clip would carry the tell-tell sign of inefficiiency because it gets relatively hotter than the backend due to its narrow form. I can say quite impressively that the clip was COOL on my first hit.

This stuff is a must have in my book.

Think I could get a link to where you got yours? Want to make sure I get the right thing

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I just did a DetoxIT trial, and for those of you who don't want to read the details... GET SOME.

just using the D-solution here. This is all that's necessary for the threads. If the backend contact is plated, I'd be surprised, and I can't really tell what that inside contact is, but I'm pretty sure there's no gold plating on this device. So, I personally don't believe the G-solution is necessary. The D-solution is sufficient for the contacts. And to those that disagree, I admit you are probably adding some benefit to the contacts with the G-solution. But by the time the contacts degrade THAT much, we will be vaping with Grasshopper's third generation product... I just think it's overkill.

The Pen is great, because with the threads being milled so fine on the hopper, the firm point of the pen easily glides along the threads as you turn the body/backend while holding the tip gently but firmly against the threads. Like a phonograph needle moving along the record grooves (remember, kids?!).

Wiping the threads afterwards with a clean cloth (use white so you really see what this stuff does), you'll see a goodly amount of that green-black residue. Keep wiping, pressing into the threads (like you're screwing the cloth into/onto the threads. The directions say to repeat the application and wiping until there's no more residue. I didn't do that; I only applied once.

I gave a quick pen-rub on the backend contact, and get this - the Pen body fits perfectly into the hopper body and lands the pen tip right on the center contact inside! A litter jiggle of the pen to move the tip around just for a second, and then use a Q-Tip to rub the contact. Note here: there was virtually no residue on either contact in my case (I had previously kept them clean-looking, otherwise).

I had said that since I got my hopper, I hardly experience a warm backend but I have noticed that the clip would carry the tell-tell sign of inefficiiency because it gets relatively hotter than the backend due to its narrow form. I can say quite impressively that the clip was COOL on my first hit.

This stuff is a must have in my book.

The D-Series sounds a little harsh for regular use:

DeoxIT® D-Series.
General purpose cleaner, for all metal surfaces with severe oxidation and corrosion. If there is a discoloration of the metal - it is considered severe. Use DeoxIT® to dissolve contamination, as well as lubricate and protect the surface. For reference, DeoxIT® has approximately 20% cleaning action.

DeoxIT® Gold G-Series.
For plated surfaces (gold and other precious metals). Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. For reference, DeoxIT® Gold has approximately 0.5% cleaning action. If the surface looks clean, applying DeoxIT® first is usually not necessary. If small amounts of oxidation are present on the surface, DeoxIT® Gold will dissolve this. Apply DeoxIT® Gold after DeoxIT® on plated metal surfaces, except where noted with DeoxIT® Shield below. The more critical the connection/part, especially low current applications, DeoxIT® Gold should be the final step.

You can find the Gold Pen here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...d+pen+caig&dpPl=1&dpID=31TGpPSyd4L&ref=plSrch

 

[Mr. Me2]

I just did a DetoxIT trial, and for those of you who don't want to read the details... GET SOME.

just using the D-solution here. This is all that's necessary for the threads. If the backend contact is plated, I'd be surprised, and I can't really tell what that inside contact is, but I'm pretty sure there's no gold plating on this device. So, I personally don't believe the G-solution is necessary. The D-solution is sufficient for the contacts. And to those that disagree, I admit you are probably adding some benefit to the contacts with the G-solution. But by the time the contacts degrade THAT much, we will be vaping with Grasshopper's third generation product... I just think it's overkill.

The Pen is great, because with the threads being milled so fine on the hopper, the firm point of the pen easily glides along the threads as you turn the body/backend while holding the tip gently but firmly against the threads. Like a phonograph needle moving along the record grooves (remember, kids?!).

Wiping the threads afterwards with a clean cloth (use white so you really see what this stuff does), you'll see a goodly amount of that green-black residue. Keep wiping, pressing into the threads (like you're screwing the cloth into/onto the threads. The directions say to repeat the application and wiping until there's no more residue. I didn't do that; I only applied once.

I gave a quick pen-rub on the backend contact, and get this - the Pen body fits perfectly into the hopper body and lands the pen tip right on the center contact inside! A litter jiggle of the pen to move the tip around just for a second, and then use a Q-Tip to rub the contact. Note here: there was virtually no residue on either contact in my case (I had previously kept them clean-looking, otherwise).

I had said that since I got my hopper, I hardly experience a warm backend but I have noticed that the clip would carry the tell-tell sign of inefficiiency because it gets relatively hotter than the backend due to its narrow form. I can say quite impressively that the clip was COOL on my first hit.

This stuff is a must have in my book.

Thanks @JoeMama !

And a question... Did you use regular q-tips or precision q-tips?

Another add for the resources?

 

[JoeMama]

The D-Series sounds a little harsh for regular use:


You can find the Gold Pen here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...d+pen+caig&dpPl=1&dpID=31TGpPSyd4L&ref=plSrch

Damn, I've read all the stuff and hadn't seen that particular blurb on the D being for "severe" oxidation.

Thanks for setting me straight, Vapor.

This stuff is awesome though.

Thanks @JoeMama !

And a question... Did you use regular q-tips or precision q-tips?

Another add for the resources?

Actually I used a regular Qtip, for the "drying" of the inside contact because I wanted to get more surface area covered down there. I used the precision ones when I'd "seen" some gunk on it and wanted to target it with more pointed rubbing.

 

[AtomicPB]

Did anyone mention or ask GHL about this DetoxIT? In case it solves some backend issues, it might be a good hint for them.

Furthermore they might have some insights about how to optimize the usage of such a product and if it might be a health risk (some time ago there was a discussion about the Hoppers airflow and which parts are exposed to it). Maybe I am a bit paranoid but whenever it comes to chemicals close to body intakes I am a bit worried.

Great find though and thanks a lot for testing, @JoeMama .

 

[Mr. Me2]

And I wonder if using it risks voiding the warranty.

 

[MonkeyTime]

And I wonder if using it risks voiding the warranty.

I can't imagine it voiding the warranty, but it's a good question for them.

The safety side is a whole different story. We use a product very similar in the electrical field to clean contacts, insulators and such and I won't use bare hands much less breath it. You get a little dizzy and then feel sick for hours, I had to eat before or it was even worse.

Not trying to scare anyone, but I think it's an extremely valid question.

What I don't like is hearing how much residue it's cleaning. That's a sure sign of oxidation or dissimilation, both which are huge factors in conductivity.

 

[Mr. Me2]

I can't imagine it voiding the warranty, but it's a good question for them.

The safety side is a whole different story. We use a product very similar in the electrical field to clean contacts, insulators and such and I won't use bare hands much less breath it. You get a little dizzy and then feel sick for hours, I had to eat before or it was even worse.

Not trying to scare anyone, but I think it's an extremely valid question.

What I don't like is hearing how much residue it's cleaning. That's a sure sign of oxidation or dissimilation, both which are huge factors in conductivity.

What's dissimulation?

 

[Archusa]

My Ti unit was returned once for a very HOT back end. Still getting very warm at times, like another member I adjust the back end tension and it helps. I have also noticed that the last 3 turns to tighten the unit together the threads feel gritty even after a good cleaning. I may give the Deoxit pen a try to see if it will help. The adjustment to the back end also stops the blue light flicker while taking a draw.
The SS one I have, the threads feel smoother when on the last few turns and runs cooler than the TI. I use mine native around 4.75T and ABC is a very dark brown with both units. Happy hopping weekend to all

 

[JoeMama]

Did anyone mention or ask GHL about this DetoxIT? In case it solves some backend issues, it might be a good hint for them.

Furthermore they might have some insights about how to optimize the usage of such a product and if it might be a health risk (some time ago there was a discussion about the Hoppers airflow and which parts are exposed to it). Maybe I am a bit paranoid but whenever it comes to chemicals close to body intakes I am a bit worried.

Great find though and thanks a lot for testing, @JoeMama .

And I wonder if using it risks voiding the warranty.

To answer, @AtomicPB , No, I haven't asked HL about DetoxIT and don't think I will be! I get that the reason would be to help, but given my sense of HL, methinks I'll let them figure that out for themselves. Because, who knows, they might feel they know more about their product than the principles behind what we're talking about here. Just don't feel like educating Caroline.
I'm an electrical engineer and I am of my own conviction on this matter. This stuff has been around since 1956. If they would choose to void a warranty for using this, they'd be at odds with every electronics tech I've ever known. And, unlness you do a chem analysis on the hopper, how would anyone know it was ever used? Just my sense, but I'm not worried about voiding a warranty for keeping my unit working while I have it.

I've taken several more hits today, and the thing stays COOL. Heat is a real hungry beast. It takes a lot of current to make noticeable heat, and with that heat no longer being generated, and instead sent to the heater itself, I'm betting I will see improved battery performance. I'm sold on it, D or G type, but I'm sold. It's already made my hopper even more impressive.
Oh, AND, the back end screws on like butter. I was beginning to get a sense of grittiness on the last turn or two of the screw-down. Now it just rolls around the threads and tightens without that micro-crunchy feeling in that last quarter-turn to tighten.

I can't imagine it voiding the warranty, but it's a good question for them.

The safety side is a whole different story. We use a product very similar in the electrical field to clean contacts, insulators and such and I won't use bare hands much less breath it. You get a little dizzy and then feel sick for hours, I had to eat before or it was even worse.

Not trying to scare anyone, but I think it's an extremely valid question.

What I don't like is hearing how much residue it's cleaning. That's a sure sign of oxidation or dissimilation, both which are huge factors in conductivity.

Unless you've used this at all, please don't jump to conclusions. The amount of Detoxit applied is miniscule. It's not a drop or two, it's barely noticeable even if you tap the pen on a piece of paper. The applicator never touches you and there's no odor, either.

Not quite sure what you mean by that you don't like hearing how much residue its cleaning. It's cleaning oxidation, caused by microscopic arcing between threads, creating more oxidation, in turn creating heat. It's not like it's "creating" residue. Nor is it like a dangerous acid.

Here is the MSDS for DetoxIT.
http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/articles/deoxit_d100l.pdf

Of COURSE, do not put this stuff on the threads of the mouthpiece. Only the backend. There is no airflow in the backend, so you will not be even taking trace amounts of anything from the back end. We are pulling air from the front where the blue lights are, not from the back! We know this

 

[Elac]

I take it as the amount of 'residue' produced by the GH, not the cleaner. I don't yet own one so I can only throw this out there... Conductive grease?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T8S81Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Or a similar product.
Maybe could be used for a test.
As micro arcing sounds like the cause.
Edit: If this has been mentioned already, sorry and props to the OP.

 

[MonkeyTime]

What's dissimulation?

Dissimilation happens when you have two different metals next to one another, eventually you get outer shell transfer of electrons between them and the metals almost become one so to speak. Lay some iron over copper and before long it's discolored, after that the iron begins to eat into the copper. It's terrible for conductivety.

Unless you've used this at all, please don't jump to conclusions. The amount of Detoxit applied is miniscule. It's not a drop or two, it's barely noticeable even if you tap the pen on a piece of paper. The applicator never touches you and there's no odor, either.

Not quite sure what you mean by that you don't like hearing how much residue its cleaning. It's cleaning oxidation, caused by microscopic arcing between threads, creating more oxidation, in turn creating heat. It's not like it's "creating" residue.

I haven't used it and won't until I verify its safety. I jumped to no conclusions and flat out said I wasn't trying to scare anyone, but it should be looked into.

I don't doubt its use or effectiveness. I have access to any cleaners and conditioners I want. I've yet to see one workout safety warnings.

My concern is if it's continually oxidizing. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't expect much or any over a short period of time, even if I rubbed my fingers across my nose and then the threads.

If you've looked into the safety side, please share. I tried contacting them but we're not a registered distributor, so I'll have to call. I also tried downloading their MSDS sheets, but middle PA had poor reception and it keeps timing out.

 

[Mr. Me2]

Dissimilation happens when you have two different metals next to one another, eventually you get outer shell transfer of electrons between them and the metals almost become one so to speak. Lay some iron over copper and before long it's discolored, after that the iron begins to eat into the copper. It's terrible for conductivety.



I haven't used it and won't until I verify its safety. I jumped to no conclusions and flat out said I wasn't trying to scare anyone, but it should be looked into.

I don't doubt its use or effectiveness. I have access to any cleaners and conditioners I want. I've yet to see one workout safety warnings.

My concern is if it's continually oxidizing. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't expect much or any over a short period of time, even if I rubbed my fingers across my nose and then the threads.

If you've looked into the safety side, please share. I tried contacting them but we're not a registered distributor, so I'll have to call. I also tried downloading their MSDS sheets, but middle PA had poor reception and it keeps timing out.

Battle of the experts! I'm getting my popcorn now!

I really appreciate the input, expertise, and opinions from both of you. Thanks!

 

[MonkeyTime]

Battle of the experts! I'm getting my popcorn now!

I really appreciate the input, expertise, and opinions from both of you. Thanks!

Lol, no battle my friend. We are both looking to accomplish the same thing. I have no doubts at all it will/does help with conductivity.

I only want more information on its safety.

 

[Mr. Me2]

Lol, no battle my friend. We are both looking to accomplish the same thing. I have no doubts at all it will/does help with conductivity.

I only want more information on its safety.

Okay, but I think I'm still going to have some popcorn.

 

[JoeMama]

Battle of the experts! I'm getting my popcorn now!

I really appreciate the input, expertise, and opinions from both of you. Thanks!

Haha yes, absolutely no battle This is clearly a learning experience for all of us. But put butter on the popcorn for more flavor

Dissimilation happens when you have two different metals next to one another, eventually you get outer shell transfer of electrons between them and the metals almost become one so to speak. Lay some iron over copper and before long it's discolored, after that the iron begins to eat into the copper. It's terrible for conductivity.

I haven't used it and won't until I verify its safety. I jumped to no conclusions and flat out said I wasn't trying to scare anyone, but it should be looked into.

I don't doubt its use or effectiveness. I have access to any cleaners and conditioners I want. I've yet to see one workout safety warnings.

My concern is if it's continually oxidizing. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't expect much or any over a short period of time, even if I rubbed my fingers across my nose and then the threads.

If you've looked into the safety side, please share. I tried contacting them but we're not a registered distributor, so I'll have to call. I also tried downloading their MSDS sheets, but middle PA had poor reception and it keeps timing out.

Lol, no battle my friend. We are both looking to accomplish the same thing. I have no doubts at all it will/does help with conductivity.

I only want more information on its safety.

Monkey I do appreciate your inputs; while I wouldn't put this stuff in my eyes or on my tongue, and I have spoken with techs who aren't "safety experts", the MSDS I posted above is one of the most benign sheets I've read when it comes to applying "cleaners" to anything with biological safety issues. On Monday I will talk with some engineers who run the plating processes in one of the companies I work with; maybe I can get some more input for everyone who has a health concern.

Health aside (haha), I've managed to get the most beautiful ABV out of the hopper for the first time (when it was new I didn't know WTF I was doing). And I didn't have to progressively up the temp dial. This stuff makes energy transfer so much better, I can tell the difference in the battery drain.

 

[Mr. Me2]

Haha yes, absolutely no battle This is clearly a learning experience for all of us. But put butter on the popcorn for more flavor





Monkey I do appreciate your inputs; while I wouldn't put this stuff in my eyes or on my tongue, and I have spoken with techs who aren't "safety experts", the MSDS I posted above is one of the most benign sheets I've read when it comes to applying "cleaners" to anything with biological safety issues. On Monday I will talk with some engineers who run the plating processes in one of the companies I work with; maybe I can get some more input for everyone who has a health concern.

Health aside (haha), I've managed to get the most beautiful ABV out of the hopper for the first time (when it was new I didn't know WTF I was doing). And I didn't have to progressively up the temp dial. This stuff makes energy transfer so much better, I can tell the difference in the battery drain.

I'm liking the sound of this. But always better safe than sorry

And I'm THRILLED to hear of your improved performance, @JoeMama !

 

[MonkeyTime]

Haha yes, absolutely no battle This is clearly a learning experience for all of us. But put butter on the popcorn for more flavor





Monkey I do appreciate your inputs; while I wouldn't put this stuff in my eyes or on my tongue, and I have spoken with techs who aren't "safety experts", the MSDS I posted above is one of the most benign sheets I've read when it comes to applying "cleaners" to anything with biological safety issues. On Monday I will talk with some engineers who run the plating processes in one of the companies I work with; maybe I can get some more input for everyone who has a health concern.

Health aside (haha), I've managed to get the most beautiful ABV out of the hopper for the first time (when it was new I didn't know WTF I was doing). And I didn't have to progressively up the temp dial. This stuff makes energy transfer so much better, I can tell the difference in the battery drain.

Effective battery use? With the GH? No way!

It may mean a little extra maintenance, but the benefits will far out weigh that!

Tell me you're getting an extra 1/2 bowl with it and no heat (except maybe the clip which is probably press fit and always going to be a concern)

 

[vapviking]

I'm getting red/blue flashing on my ~4 day old SS piece, even after trying some thread & contact cleaning, some twisting of backend parts, all kinds of, well whatever. Click on, red, then flashing red/blue. Backend heat had not been an issue at first, then it did get real hot one time. I unscrewed and screwed some things and behavior returned to normal for a few bowls.

Interestingly, I also have a Ti Hopper that's functioning very well.
When I swap the backends, the SS body still goes to flashing red/blue lights, while the combo of SS backend on Ti body works fine. So, it seems to me clearly to be a problem with the body of the SS unit (even after cleaning, different batteries, etc...).

I'm gonna have to put this away for a week and deal with it after the vacation that it is no longer coming along for!

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I welcome any concerns about safety. Safety is a large part of why a lot of us vaporize. Hell, I worry about marking my batteries with Sharpies because I don't want that ink in the air path. And there does seem to be a tiny bit of air that gets through the back end if you plug the air intake holes on the side. Maybe it's coming through the mouthpiece threads, it's hard to tell.

Because of this I hesitated to add the DeoxIT Gold to the resource, but after looking into it seemed safe enough in relative terms to my non-expert mind.

Isopropyl alcohol is not the safest thing either and Hopper Labs recommends that for cleaning. Not that I'm saying because they recommend one unsafe thing we can use any unsafe thing, but the MSDS for DeoxIT Gold is pretty benign in my opinion.

I will buy some soon, I am eager to see what results I receive.

I would like to touch upon the black stuff in the threads of the backend. I think this is either machining grease or some lube they put on during assembly. I cleaned a bunch off when my hopper was relatively new, before it should have had time to build up oxidation from arcing. The hopper wasn't having any heat issues either so I doubt arcing was happening.

When I've cleaned it since there has been virtually zero black residue. The first time there was a huge amount that took a lot of q-tips to get rid of. The threading also seemed grittier after I cleaned it the first time, which is why I thought it might be some kind of conductive lube.

I'm sure some people with heat issues might have arcing causing oxidation. But I also think HL puts something on those threads when they build the hopper.

 

[JoeMama]

Effective battery use? With the GH? No way!

It may mean a little extra maintenance, but the benefits will far out weigh that!

Tell me you're getting an extra 1/2 bowl with it and no heat (except maybe the clip which is probably press fit and always going to be a concern)

I can say with no exaggeration that so far, one one battery, on T4, I have:

-Vaped a pinch of Indica last night before bed (re my post gushing about the new performance).
-Emptied this morning and have vaped one full fluffy chamber to ABV perfection.
- Am currently vaping a second similar sized chamber with Hits #1 and 2 being 10/10 clouds, Hit #3 being a 7.5/10 cloud, and Hit #4 starting to question if the chamber is done or if it's ABV yet. (to be continued below)

SIDEBAR:
Here's the thing - the "variable" in all assessments (IMHO): Battery Stooch (that's my word for "stay power" ) (this has nothing to do with DetoxIT):
With a battery that is not at 100%, would the T-setting replicate the same temperature "range" as a 100% charged battery? That is to say, I have found that as the battery gets weaker, I'm THINKING that turning up the Temp will "compensate" for the battery depletion. It sure seems that way, because...

(back to topic)
I've literally just now acted on this Sidebar idea and where Hit #4 was of light density, the nudge I just did to T4.25 gave me back an 7.5/10 cloud for Hit #5, and Hit #6 yielded 3/10. Emptying the chamber, it's golden brown ABV. No flecks of good stuff.

And I also just noticed that, by now, I'd see the Blue Flicker of Impending Death. The Blues are still rock steady after more than 10 uses. The blues are SOLID! My GOD man, do you know what this MEANS!?

So, It is unquestionable to me that, having got what I've got from this little maintenance (which I don't intend to do unless I feel that warmth, or even that crunchiness whilst screwing the body together with the backend), I have gotten superb repetitive performance without futzing. Sure, I always check that the fastened ends are tight, of course.

I hope this helps...

I welcome any concerns about safety. Safety is a large part of why a lot of us vaporize. Hell, I worry about marking my batteries with Sharpies because I don't want that ink in the air path. And there does seem to be a tiny bit of air that gets through the back end if you plug the air intake holes on the side. Maybe it's coming through the mouthpiece threads, it's hard to tell.

Because of this I hesitated to add the DeoxIT Gold to the resource, but after looking into it seemed safe enough in relative terms to my non-expert mind.

Isopropyl alcohol is not the safest thing either and Hopper Labs recommends that for cleaning. Not that I'm saying because they recommend one unsafe thing we can use any unsafe thing, but the MSDS for DeoxIT Gold is pretty benign in my opinion.

I will buy some soon, I am eager to see what results I receive.

I would like to touch upon the black stuff in the threads of the backend. I think this is either machining grease or some lube they put on during assembly. I cleaned a bunch off when my hopper was relatively new, before it should have had time to build up oxidation from arcing. The hopper wasn't having any heat issues either so I doubt arcing was happening.

When I've cleaned it since there has been virtually zero black residue. The first time there was a huge amount that took a lot of q-tips to get rid of. The threading also seemed grittier after I cleaned it the first time, which is why I thought it might be some kind of conductive lube.

I'm sure some people with heat issues might have arcing causing oxidation. But I also think HL puts something on those threads when they build the hopper.

Vapor, I get your concern... I just took a thick rubber band to put around the LED holes, and that wasn't enough for me... I took the whole front into my mouth, beyond the lights (being careful not to get it wet of course) and could (just barely) detect some "escape path" going on, but, based on 1) how little I'd used, and 2) how many times I wiped it clean, and 3) how tightly those threads are woven together, and 4) how cool the body is (which further decreases 'outgassing'), and (!!!) 5) how tiny that "escape air" might be - (also, physics will eliminate that path as "active" until your draw path is severely obstructed)....
then I feel comfortable enough to not have a concern for myself.

Having said all that, I think the Gold IS the better solution in light of what you said before. After all, we are not restoring contacts. We're cleaning and protecting them. I should have made that connection about all this in the first place.

Regarding the residue, it's really not residue, but a "release" of what wouldn't come off without using DetoxIT. I too had wiped my new hopper just with ISO and got the stuff I called Mystery Gunk. This stuff is different. It's oxidation, and it is molecularly "stuck" on the metal. ISO won't remove that. ISO only removes Mystery Gunk.


Thanks for allowing my to contribute. The impetus to improve this experience is so enhanced when you have peeps to share it with. I'm glad to be a part of the FC Hopper Cult.

EDIT: I just loaded a fresh chamber, same size, put the temp BACK to T4, and ripped a great cloud; toward the end of the hit, the slightest blue flicker began.

 

[Vapor_Eyes]

I can say with no exaggeration that so far, one one battery, on T4, I have:

-Vaped a pinch of Indica last night before bed (re my post gushing about the new performance).
-Emptied this morning and have vaped one full fluffy chamber to ABV perfection.
- Am currently vaping a second similar sized chamber with Hits #1 and 2 being 10/10 clouds, Hit #3 being a 7.5/10 cloud, and Hit #4 starting to question if the chamber is done or if it's ABV yet. (to be continued below)

SIDEBAR:
Here's the thing - the "variable" in all assessments (IMHO): Battery Stooch (that's my word for "stay power" ) (this has nothing to do with DetoxIT):
With a battery that is not at 100%, would the T-setting replicate the same temperature "range" as a 100% charged battery? That is to say, I have found that as the battery gets weaker, I'm THINKING that turning up the Temp will "compensate" for the battery depletion. It sure seems that way, because...

(back to topic)
I've literally just now acted on this Sidebar idea and where Hit #4 was of light density, the nudge I just did to T4.25 gave me back an 7.5/10 cloud for Hit #5, and Hit #6 yielded 3/10. Emptying the chamber, it's golden brown ABV. No flecks of good stuff.

And I also just noticed that, by now, I'd see the Blue Flicker of Impending Death. The Blues are still rock steady after more than 10 uses. The blues are SOLID! My GOD man, do you know what this MEANS!?

So, It is unquestionable to me that, having got what I've got from this little maintenance (which I don't intend to do unless I feel that warmth, or even that crunchiness whilst screwing the body together with the backend), I have gotten superb repetitive performance without futzing. Sure, I always check that the fastened ends are tight, of course.

I hope this helps...



Vapor, I get your concern... I just took a thick rubber band to put around the LED holes, and that wasn't enough for me... I took the whole front into my mouth, beyond the lights (being careful not to get it wet of course) and could (just barely) detect some "escape path" going on, but, based on 1) how little I'd used, and 2) how many times I wiped it clean, and 3) how tightly those threads are woven together, and 4) how cool the body is (which further decreases 'outgassing'), and (!!!) 5) how tiny that "escape air" might be - (also, physics will eliminate that path as "active" until your draw path is severely obstructed)....
then I feel comfortable enough to not have a concern for myself.

Having said all that, I think the Gold IS the better solution in light of what you said before. After all, we are not restoring contacts. We're cleaning and protecting them. I should have made that connection about all this in the first place.

Regarding the residue, it's really not residue, but a "release" of what wouldn't come off without using DetoxIT. I too had wiped my new hopper just with ISO and got the stuff I called Mystery Gunk. This stuff is different. It's oxidation, and it is molecularly "stuck" on the metal. ISO won't remove that. ISO only removes Mystery Gunk.


Thanks for allowing my to contribute. The impetus to improve this experience is so enhanced when you have peeps to share it with. I'm glad to be a part of the FC Hopper Cult.

EDIT: I just loaded a fresh chamber, same size, put the temp BACK to T4, and ripped a great cloud; toward the end of the hit, the slightest blue flicker began.

Very interesting all around.

I'm not overly worried about the small amount of air coming through the backend. I have marked my batteries with sharpies and plan on using the DeoxIT Gold and possibly D-Series as well. It's just that the thought had occurred to me that there was some level of risk.

I think D-Series is fine for occasional use. The original tip in the Fixes resource is for daily use of Gold. I think daily is overkill for Gold, but probably fine. I wouldn't want to use the D-Series daily, it just seems a little harsh.

I will probably get some D-Series in addition to Gold. I could see the D-Series being useful for more than just the Grasshopper.

It's very interesting that what you are finding in your threads is oxidation instead of mystery gunk. Is it possible you were removing tiny metal particles from the machining process instead? This would explain the smoother threading.

Not that I doubt your experience, just trying to throw extra ideas out there. I find this topic very interesting.

Perhaps I should clean the backend threads with iso, and then use the D-Series to see what additional gunk comes off. I would finish with the Gold.

Depending on my results with the DeoxIT products, I may use them right away on my new Ti preorder when I get it. It would be interesting to see what I could get from a D-Series cleaning after I've cleaned a brand new hopper with iso.

 

[greenextinguisher]

I've blown into the battery compartment before and no air made it through. I feel like its pretty isolated.

I'm cleaning with 99% alcohol. I've done 3 full breakdowns and cleanings to date. I get a lot of black stuff off the threads of the TI every single time. With just alcohol. I think I'm getting some off the mouthpiece threads as well, but its harder to tell with other build up in there. I get considerably less on the SS and this week I used it at least twice as much as the TI.

I'm a little concerned that what we are cleaning here isn't just the connectors oxidizing/corroding, but rather dust from the metals grinding on each other. Due to my experience I'm suspecting it affects the TI more.

This stuff being in the battery area only concerns me to the extent that it could incapacitate the hopper by causing shorts/arcs on that little PCB. That's no big deal. If it is occurring on the front threads, I will have legit concerns.

I may sacrifice my TI to testing this week. I have a new vape to mess with anyway. I'm going to screw and unscrew the front a few times each day and then do a cleaning of the threads at the end of the week. I'll let you guys know what I find.