The Grasshopper

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
I guess it could be the battery, I don't know. But if it is, I would expect it to behave consistently - that is, always making the backend hot. If the backend isn't consistent (taking into account the varying backend heat versus battery drain), then maybe it begs more questions. ...Which is one of the things this forum has been great for, with its many detailed threads and a developing Fixes Resource.

Since I haven't experienced a hot "back end", to be clear, we're talking about the button-end, but is it the temp dial that seems to sink the most heat? The clip becomes too hot to handle?
The heat that builds up in mine is in the backend clip ring. The actual dial I don't believe I've felt get warm
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I guess it could be the battery, I don't know. But if it is, I would expect it to behave consistently - that is, always making the backend hot. If the backend isn't consistent (taking into account the varying backend heat versus battery drain), then maybe it begs more questions. ...Which is one of the things this forum has been great for, with its many detailed threads and a developing Fixes Resource.

Since I haven't experienced a hot "back end", to be clear, we're talking about the button-end, but is it the temp dial that seems to sink the most heat? The clip becomes too hot to handle?
If the backend heat and buildup on the contacts and batteries is related, could it (sometimes) be caused by arcing. That could explain the buildup, and since arcing events are not (theoretically) consistent, that could account for different heat (and gunk buildup) experience at different times.

Every time a battery is changed, the points of contact change. And every time a temp is changed, the points of contact may also be changed.

Possible?
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
I have a Ti hopper that seems to be working fine.
One new SS hopper has the loose screen issue. Starting with about it's 3rd use, now almost every time the mouthpiece is unscrewed the screen loosens by about a quarter to half a turn. I first noticed it as a rattle, and of course there are no rattles in a well functioning hopper. From my reading here, I knew to try a pointy thing (dental tool in this case). Put in one of the outer holes on the screen, it can easily turn the screen back to a snug place.
Checked in Resource Thread but I don't see any other solutions posted. When I get some time I will iso clean the mouthpiece (while screen is ajar) and try again to tighten. But it was brand new when this began, no time for any dirty buildup. I had wiped off threads but not the screen threads.
It seems to me the trouble (in this instance) is that the body touches the screen when mouthpiece is attached. If the mouthpiece were a hair longer overall, it could put a small distance between the two. Likewise, if a small amount was removed from the length of the body, this could also put some small gap/distance between the two. If, by design, the body is supposed to make contact with screen, then we need a better way to tighten the screen positively.
I'm not gonna carry a dental tool or tweezers or pliers around with me all the time.
Other than this screen issue, the SS is working just fine.

My main gripe about hopper is heat on the mouthpiece and heat on most of the body after two or three hits; backend is cool as a cucumber. One-hitting has never been my style, but I am liking the use that way with this thing! It's forcing me (the heat) to take a little time between hits, which is probably a good thing, on balance.
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I have a Ti hopper that seems to be working fine.
One new SS hopper has the loose screen issue. Starting with about it's 3rd use, now almost every time the mouthpiece is unscrewed the screen loosens by about a quarter to half a turn. I first noticed it as a rattle, and of course there are no rattles in a well functioning hopper. From my reading here, I knew to try a pointy thing (dental tool in this case). Put in one of the outer holes on the screen, it can easily turn the screen back to a snug place.
Checked in Resource Thread but I don't see any other solutions posted. When I get some time I will iso clean the mouthpiece (while screen is ajar) and try again to tighten. But it was brand new when this began, no time for any dirty buildup. I had wiped off threads but not the screen threads.
It seems to me the trouble (in this instance) is that the body touches the screen when mouthpiece is attached. If the mouthpiece were a hair longer overall, it could put a small distance between the two. Likewise, if a small amount was removed from the length of the body, this could also put some small gap/distance between the two. If, by design, the body is supposed to make contact with screen, then we need a better way to tighten the screen positively.
I'm not gonna carry a dental tool or tweezers or pliers around with me all the time.
Other than this screen issue, the SS is working just fine.

My main gripe about hopper is heat on the mouthpiece and heat on most of the body after two or three hits; backend is cool as a cucumber. One-hitting has never been my style, but I am liking the use that way with this thing! It's forcing me (the heat) to take a little time between hits, which is probably a good thing, on balance.
I had the same loose screen problem as you. It kept returning until I got tweezers to tighten it. HUGE difference between tightening the screen with a single point and having 2 points of contact, which provides much better leverage.

The first time I tightened the screen with a single pointed tool, it loosened again pretty quickly. When I tightened it with tweezers, it stayed in place.

Try it, you'll like it.
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I had the same loose screen problem as you. It kept returning until I got tweezers to tighten it. HUGE difference between tightening the screen with a single point and having 2 points of contact, which provides much better leverage.

The first time I tightened the screen with a single pointed tool, it loosened again pretty quickly. When I tightened it with tweezers, it stayed in place.

Try it, you'll like it.
Add to Fixes Resource?
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
If the backend heat and buildup on the contacts and batteries is related, could it (sometimes) be caused by arcing. That could explain the buildup, and since arcing events are not (theoretically) consistent, that could account for different heat (and gunk buildup) experience at different times.

Every time a battery is changed, the points of contact change. And every time a temp is changed, the points of contact may also be changed.

Possible?
It's possible, and since you mentioned arcing, I'm curious: I'm not suggesting anyone do this unless you're willing to injure the battery, but.... if you took a GH battery and used a piece of wire to short one end to the other, would it arc? It would have to be a good gauge because if the wire is too thin, it will act more like a resistor and heat up instead of providing a fast short circuit. Point is, is there really that much stooch in that battery to cause an arc (albeit maybe so tiny you wouldn't notice easily??)? Because if so, then that buildup of mystery gunk would make a bit more sense.

Changing batteries introduces a new scenario, so perhaps that comes under "variables" in the hot backend scenario.

Practically every time I change batteries, I'm inspecting for gunk and the right "feel" of the threads.

I also wonder - since I only have a Ti - if the SS models leave less "stuff" behind on the threads. Has anyone noticed how often you can use an ISO-damped swab on the backend threads and continue to get a grayish-metal-ish residue on the swab? I almost think it's Titanium dust, for each time you screw it on or off, you're rubbing metal together. Maybe I'm nuts. But where does that shit come from?!? It isn't arcing "in between the threads", right? Does this happen with SS units? If it does, then :shrug:!

So as my perspective seems, any sensation of the clip being no more than "slightly hot" after a single long pull would seem normal. But taking two or three successive pulls (session-like), I think all bets are off, and this is more or less an expected result of lots of heat being generated for a long period in a small area.

But, now I understand, thanks @Kalessin and @vapognak ... I can say that my clip and clip ring exhibit greater heat, but only noticeably, without discomfort to the fingers. But this isn't surprising, as the clip represents the least mass and will be a focal point for heat buildup.
 

greenextinguisher

Well-Known Member
Yes! This is helpful advice that I accidentally omitted from things I tried.



Just that the only downside to packing a full chamber is flavor. I don't think your advice is "wrong" per se, but to me it sounds like advice from someone primarily hitting through water. To me it makes the vapor much hotter to the point that its dangerous. I don't disagree with any of your other specific points.



Different kind of hot and one that I enjoy very much, though maybe not at that scale. ha

I want to stop whining and instead finding solutions. My first glass sleeve is in and it's promising. I'm going to take a few days off from the GH to make sure I'm not just desensitized after eating fire. I also ordered a pinnacle pro hydro tube. If it comes down to that being required for me, the GH could still be pretty badass.
I did play with the glass sleeves a bit before taking the break and they made it quite easy to get very big hits without discomfort. Ultimately, it's a little bit of a kludge and not something I'm interested in. I do have big hopes for the hydrotube which is on its way from China.

Somehow during my hopper break I subconsciously worked out my issues with hitting it native. Yesterday I did two bowls thrpough the SS totally native, no silicone. The first was just a pinch and the second was pinches until it hit the rim (still very loose pack). Both were totally fine with no negative after effects. (edit: I started at 3 and finished the bowls at 4.25) Not 100% sure what I changed, but I think it was really just slowing down my draw. It makes sense if you think about it. Pulling fast and hard with this adaptive heater causes increasingly hot air to quickly pass through the chamber without transferring much heat to the material. This results in very hot air and very little (wispy) evaporation in the mouth.

I'm still finding flavor practically non-existent and the gh is definitely bottom-tier for me as far as enjoyment of the experience goes, but as the-ultimate-in-stealth-stash-able-hit-stick its getting much more appealing. Plus it seems with experience I like it more and more, so who knows what the future holds? Unfortunately, for the second time, I ended up with a headache a little while after using the GH. Headaches are pretty rare for me, so I finished the night with a crafty session and will keep an eye on it. Not quite ready to blame the GH. I've also been a little more enthusiastic about my espresso shots, so there are multiple suspects. :sherlock:

If the backend heat and buildup on the contacts and batteries is related, could it (sometimes) be caused by arcing. That could explain the buildup, and since arcing events are not (theoretically) consistent, that could account for different heat (and gunk buildup) experience at different times.

Every time a battery is changed, the points of contact change. And every time a temp is changed, the points of contact may also be changed.

Possible?
I like this hypothesis. While I don't know that I've experienced the hot backend issue, when messing with glass and taking longer pulls, I did get a sharp little bit of heat on my pinky when it bridged the clip to the body. I immediately thought it was the backend issue but as soon as I stopped and inspected, I noticed the backend was actually not hot at all. It must have been a little current passing through my finger.

It makes sense to me that the hot backend is from some sort of arc or short causing current to pass through something like the clip. The resistance then causes it to warm up. I think the current "fixes" of reseating the backend just strengthen the hypothesis.

The backend repeatedly getting hot could have a very negative impact on the battery and circuit board that controls the heater and that could easily lead to a whole host of problems.
 

Kfirrer

Well-Known Member
Reposting...

I had backend heating problems as well,my solution was using CAIG DeoxIT GOLD Pen.

Almost no heat when using the DeoxIT every day, once a day on the threads(body&backend).

You can find it everywhere on the internet.
It`s also great for bunch of other uses.
Hope it helps anyone...

Kfirrer
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Reposting...

I had backend heating problems as well,my solution was using CAIG DeoxIT GOLD Pen.

Almost no heat when using the DeoxIT every day, once a day on the threads(body&backend).

You can find it everywhere on the internet.
It`s also great for bunch of other uses.
Hope it helps anyone...

Kfirrer
What is that stuff? A cleaning agent?
 
Mr. Me2,

Kfirrer

Well-Known Member
Company`s description-

`DeoxIT Gold is a unique conditioning solution that improves conductivity and provides long-lasting protection on gold, base metals and other precious metal contacts and connections (gold, silver, rhodium, copper, bronze, nickel, etc.). Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. DeoxIT Gold coats the entire surface, providing protection from abrasion, corrosion, arcing, RFI, and tarnishing. Use on connectors and contacts for maximum performance and protection. Temperature range: -34°C to 310°C. The GxL line of ProGold provides an extended temperature range (-45°C to 400°C), longer lasting, non-gumming/varnishing. Ideal for tube sockets! 100% ProGold concentrate. `

all I can say is that it helped me,but I do think that it can help only if the heat is coming from the threads area. I don`t` think it can help if the heat is coming from inside the clip ring area.

Sorry if you see my post only now,I`m still on `bad boy` status here so my posts are delaying...
 
Last edited:

Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
Audiophile snake oil.

Except it does actually work for electrical contacts, so I guess I shouldn't call it snake oil :evil:
 
Copacetic,

tiny_wiener_guy

New Member
Help! Grasshopper not producing vapor!

It's new. I've used it a few times, usually on heat setting 4-ish, and it doesn't seem to be producing vapor right. I have gotten 1 or 2 decent rips on it. Also a few smaller rips. But half the time I exhale essentially zero vapor. For example, I just packed a pinch (about the size of 2 tic-tacs), moderately ground, and attempted to rip it 4 times (setting 4). Next to no vapor. Felt very minimal effects. Open up the chamber and the herb was still super green. It looked like a fresh pack!

I have tried everything... Packing it tighter, looser, full pack, semi-pack, strong draws, weak draws, finely ground, less-finely ground, holding it vertically/horizontally... I'm out of ideas. Please help.

Could I be doing something wrong or do I have a faulty unit... and what should I do about that if so?
 
tiny_wiener_guy,

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Help! Grasshopper not producing vapor!

It's new. I've used it a few times, usually on heat setting 4-ish, and it doesn't seem to be producing vapor right. I have gotten 1 or 2 decent rips on it. Also a few smaller rips. But half the time I exhale essentially zero vapor. For example, I just packed a pinch (about the size of 2 tic-tacs), moderately ground, and attempted to rip it 4 times (setting 4). Next to no vapor. Felt very minimal effects. Open up the chamber and the herb was still super green. It looked like a fresh pack!

I have tried everything... Packing it tighter, looser, full pack, semi-pack, strong draws, weak draws, finely ground, less-finely ground, holding it vertically/horizontally... I'm out of ideas. Please help.

Could I be doing something wrong or do I have a faulty unit... and what should I do about that if so?
Can you tell if the heater is working (Does the body or mouthpiece get warm? Can you feel heat when you draw on it?). Have you checked the condition of your mouthpiece screen?
 
Mr. Me2,

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I like this hypothesis. While I don't know that I've experienced the hot backend issue, when messing with glass and taking longer pulls, I did get a sharp little bit of heat on my pinky when it bridged the clip to the body. I immediately thought it was the backend issue but as soon as I stopped and inspected, I noticed the backend was actually not hot at all. It must have been a little current passing through my finger.
Personally, I don't doubt anything that is expressed here. Just ONE time when I held the hopper in my hands as I had unscrewed the mouthpiece, I could swear I felt a micro-tingle somewhere on that exposed metal shaft of the chamber. Hasn't happened a second time. That said, @greenextinguisher , it is my understanding that when you press the tip of the clip "down" onto the body when in use, you're feeling a micro-electric sensation on your pinky, or is it actual "heat"?

(recently edited for stupidity)
 

greenextinguisher

Well-Known Member
Personally, I don't doubt anything that is expressed here. Just ONE time when I held the hopper in my hands as I had unscrewed the mouthpiece, I could swear I felt a micro-tingle somewhere on that exposed metal shaft of the chamber. Hasn't happened a second time. That said, @greenextinguisher , it is my understanding that when you press the tip of the clip "down" onto the body when in use, you're feeling a micro-electric sensation on your pinky, or is it actual "heat"?

(recently edited for stupidity)
I think it was current moving through my finger since there wasn't any residual heat when I shifted my grip. I'm sure there is all kinds of current hopping around the hopper. My TI reliably flashes red every time I screw in a battery. My SS never does this. I hope and expect that gh will refine things here and there and ultimately on an RMA at some point we'll all end up with GHs that have better reliability and consistency. Would probably be fun to go at both of my units with a multimeter.
 

greenextinguisher

Well-Known Member
hahaha. Its totally useful stuff. Its primary purpose is to deoxidized connections that are made of materials that oxidize. It also will just generally clean crud off connections.

Now, if someone says they noticed it made the highs really sparkle on their bose headphones after applying to the gold connectors, just nod.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Company`s description-

`DeoxIT Gold is a unique conditioning solution that improves conductivity and provides long-lasting protection on gold, base metals and other precious metal contacts and connections (gold, silver, rhodium, copper, bronze, nickel, etc.). Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. DeoxIT Gold coats the entire surface, providing protection from abrasion, corrosion, arcing, RFI, and tarnishing. Use on connectors and contacts for maximum performance and protection. Temperature range: -34°C to 310°C. The GxL line of ProGold provides an extended temperature range (-45°C to 400°C), longer lasting, non-gumming/varnishing. Ideal for tube sockets! 100% ProGold concentrate. `

all I can say is that it helped me,but I do think that it can help only if the heat is coming from the threads area. I don`t` think it can help if the heat is coming from inside the clip ring area.

Sorry if you see my post only now,I`m still on `bad boy` status here so my posts are delaying...
Audiophile snake oil.

Except it does actually work for electrical contacts, so I guess I shouldn't call it snake oil :evil:
Yeah, not really sure you can call it snake oil since lots of recording studios rely on that type of stuff for cleaning patchbays and patch cables.
There are several packaging types of this stuff; spray, squeeze-tube, brush-on... I guess the spray is out (derp!). How have you applied this, just brush it on and wipe off? And it never builds up?

My only experience with contact cleaners have been the blue stuff kind when I used to repair rotary channel switches on old TV's. Remember those, kids?
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Reposting...

I had backend heating problems as well,my solution was using CAIG DeoxIT GOLD Pen.

Almost no heat when using the DeoxIT every day, once a day on the threads(body&backend).

You can find it everywhere on the internet.
It`s also great for bunch of other uses.
Hope it helps anyone...

Kfirrer
After looking into this some more it seems like a great product. I've added this tip to the Fixes resource: http://fuckcombustion.com/resources/grasshopper-fixes.11/
 
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