Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
francis
Vape enthusiasms
As promised, my setup.....
The Adapter:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130962884679
The Screen for the adapter (the largest one. the smaller screen is the one from the Cyclone).
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
I love the EQ. My experience with vaporizers is limited to the EQ and Solo but the Solo was my first it converted me from smoking. So when I got the Eq I thought it didn't have thick enough vapor and even with the silicone whip i could taste plastic flavor so I wanted to eliminate all plastic and move the screen ledge closer to the heating element. It all transformed the EQ to a Decepticon, its like its honestly a completely different vaporizer. Now I can't wait to find any type of affordable water to incorporate in my design. I don't dare cut on my fan anymore, the vapor I get is to dense powerful and flavorful. And I can still pack an elbow screen and get numerous good hits with my setup, all my mods were inspired by being spoiled by my Solo and all the MASTERS OF THE UNIVERSE in this thread ( OLDIE, STU, SEEK, PAK, MOSH,n the rest) THANKS
Hi francis, Nope, have never combusted either using cyclone-equivalent load or by elbow pack... Max I take her is to 230C.
What changed? The adapter doesn't have any shelf or blockage (like that which holds up the screen in the original cyclone bowl). Elbow packs produce more vapor for me than ever, brown more evenly, and far more of the beginning pulls produce better taste (3-5 pulls taste like the 2nd pull does). As far as using in cyclone method, I've used loads as small as an uncompressed elbow screen and as large as approx 3 elbow screens full.... all loads work well and I never stir in the bowl. The air flow is great.
Almost forgot: I believe the temp in the bowl has increased by approx 5 degrees Celcius. I judge by taste and amount of vapor using equivalent load sizes and have a very similar result from the original cyclone bowl at 190C and the new adapter bowl at 185C.
Hope this helps!
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francis
Vape enthusiasms
dont you miss the shrink wrap around the bowl ?
I miss it much less than I thought I would. I dont stir by hand when using this bowl, the airflow does that really well. So no need to touch bowl unless emptying into ABV jar or loading cyclone style. For elbow packs only, no need to touch bowl at all.
When I need to move the bowl, I use a pliers.... but am looking to obtain a test tube clamp, which should do the job nicely and can be left on the bowl while being used.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
As promised, my setup.....
The Adapter:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130962884679
The Screen for the adapter (the largest one. the smaller screen is the one from the Cyclone).
Bowls, side by side, whip attached to adapter (see decrease in space from heater to adapter screen and from adapter screen to elbow... makes for nice performance improvement!)
Great post, DDave. FC'ers groove on this kind of stuff.
So just so I'm not missing anything, with the adapter you are using an elbow-pack plus a screen at the center ledge of the adapter? Or you can load on top of the adapter screen and leave the elbow-screen clear? In other words, bottom line both setups are just like the Cyclone but with the adapter shortening the air path?
In using the regular (no elbow-pack) method with the adapter, do you see any indication of the cyclone "turbulence" effect? (The design intent of the elbow-screen is to create back-pressure into the bowl, thus the turbulence, thus improved extraction.)
Great post, DDave. FC'ers groove on this kind of stuff.
So just so I'm not missing anything, with the adapter you are using an elbow-pack plus a screen at the center ledge of the adapter? Or you can load on top of the adapter screen and leave the elbow-screen clear? In other words, bottom line both setups are just like the Cyclone but with the adapter shortening the air path?
In using the regular (no elbow-pack) method with the adapter, do you see any indication of the cyclone "turbulence" effect? (The design intent of the elbow-screen is to create back-pressure into the bowl, thus the turbulence, thus improved extraction.)
Thanks oldiebutgoodie! I'm returning the favor. It was the FC'ers, Vape Sages and this awesome site that sold me on vaporizing.
As far as use, you hit it on the nose by saying "just like the Cyclone but with the adapter shortening the air path". Or a much better performing Cyclone bowl. My elbow packs, with nothing on the "ledge" screen, produce more flavor during a greater number of initial pulls and I'm getting much more vapor. When leaving the elbow clear and using the "ledge" screen to hold the herb I notice a few differences in the way the bowl performs. First, I can get acceptable extraction with much less herb (how much? I use the vacuum method to fill the elbow, but I dont pack it in there. Then with the new bowl in the wooden holder I use, I put the elbow on the top of the adapter and give a brief sharp blow through the whip and the herb deposits on the "ledge" screen. Then I put the loaded adapter on the Arizer and vape with that quantity of herbs. When I tried this with the original cyclone, didn't get much in the way of vapor because the product would move to the screen-holding ledge and no longer get processed by the hot air stream. With this new adapter, this is no longer the case as with no blocking ledge, the herbs have nowhere to hide. While I'm sure this can be affected by strain and/or draw speed, am trying to say that I can use much less herb than i did in the original cyclone. (of course this is a double edged sword, as now I'm running low on ABV for Firecrackers
).In regards to the cyclone "turbulence" effect, it is there absolutely... however it's different. There is a balancing act that takes place, due to shortened air path, between making the herbs dance and sucking them up into the elbow screen. In my experience, if during a draw I end up with the herbs in the elbow and dont what them there, ceasing the draw allows the herb to drop back into the bowl and then I resume the pull. Turbulence in the adapter bowl rolls, as with the original, but i've also seen herb standing-up around the edges and spinning like a top too.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
DDave, thanks for the great elaboration.
So since the adapter has no ledge, what holds that screen in place? And btw, where did you get that larger screen?
When using the standard method, I'm not surprised the elbow will get clogged. I've had that issue with the Q from the start, and the instructions somewhere mention clearing it with the glass stick. The grind and dryness are extra important in this case; herb dust really clogs badly. I like how your method may mitigate that effect by permitting less pull.
My Q is only for back-ups now, rarely use it. But with this adapter on the way, I'm going to give this a try. And I'll try using the Cloud's ELB, also. I'll report back when I have results.
So since the adapter has no ledge, what holds that screen in place? And btw, where did you get that larger screen?
When using the standard method, I'm not surprised the elbow will get clogged. I've had that issue with the Q from the start, and the instructions somewhere mention clearing it with the glass stick. The grind and dryness are extra important in this case; herb dust really clogs badly. I like how your method may mitigate that effect by permitting less pull.
My Q is only for back-ups now, rarely use it. But with this adapter on the way, I'm going to give this a try. And I'll try using the Cloud's ELB, also. I'll report back when I have results.
Thanks oldiebutgoodie!
Apologies, let me clarify. There is a ledge, but not in any way diminishing the air path or blocking any percent of the path. The ledge is the exact opposite from the original Cyclone. On the original cyclone, the ledge protrudes into the airpath, blocking some of the flow. On the new adapter, if you notice the ring in the middle, this ring is hollow (not solid glass) making a ledge which accomodates the larger screen. But the ledge doesn't move into the air path, it moves out from it. (I think a picture would show this better. I will try to get this posted this evening.) So, in relation to the air path itself, 100% of the volume of air flowing through the airpath is allowed through the screen. A plus for me is that the screen is also "fixed" in place as the ledge holding the screen is on top and bottom of the screen. (In orther words, you can use this bowl in any direction, right side up, upside down, and the screen cannot fall out)... Hmmmm, if both sides of this bowl are identical and can be used either way, is there really a "right side up" or "up side down"?
The only way I keep it straight is to see which side of the bowl has "reclaim" on it....In regards to the larger screen, I bought a pack of assorted sizes from a local shop and it came with two of these larger screens. For reference, the size of the screen I have that perfectly fits the new adapter is exactly the same size as a US Quarter. Hope this helps you find a screen before you adapter arrives!
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oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Thx! I think I've got the screen covered, and I understand the extroverted ledge.
I'll give it a try in the next few weeks or so!
I'll give it a try in the next few weeks or so!
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
I cant wait to figure how yo post videos my vapor extractions are unbelievable literally with no effort. I believe the key for anyone to get awesome vapes out the EQ is simply
MOVE YOUR HERB CLOSER TO THE HEAT!
Seek was the first I saw do something like that by inverting the Q my method was inspired by his budet bangers, my only problem was I get stoned and holding things isnt good so inverting cost me glass. Anyway D Dave was on the right track get that herb closer to the heat!!! Awesome take what you got make it work!!
VAPED OUT!!! Oh by the way DDave i was recently watching a show called Street Outlaws with a guy named Daddy Dave lol he was whooping ass! (Drag Racing)
MOVE YOUR HERB CLOSER TO THE HEAT!
Seek was the first I saw do something like that by inverting the Q my method was inspired by his budet bangers, my only problem was I get stoned and holding things isnt good so inverting cost me glass. Anyway D Dave was on the right track get that herb closer to the heat!!! Awesome take what you got make it work!!
VAPED OUT!!! Oh by the way DDave i was recently watching a show called Street Outlaws with a guy named Daddy Dave lol he was whooping ass! (Drag Racing)
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Make vid with camera, webcam, etc., post to YouTube or similar site, in the post here click on "Media" button and copy/paste url from vid site. That will embed your vid in your post here.
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
Thanks Oldie I had my wife follow your instructions on how to post my pics so ill tell her follow these as well lol. Hey Oldie whats a good versatile waterpiece i have the Solo n Extreme and would like to be able to.alternate the two with the piece.My experience is limited to old style bongsand I was recently taught about showerheads circs n honeycombs ect. So lost.But ive seen u post multiple times about water pieces so I figured you might be able to help. I don't want anything over $150 seeing how it well be eventually ambushed by gravity and my tile floor
I recently been disappointed in some equipment. My wife said what about the q? She loved that thing and after spending a few days reading the thread I am excited to say Arizer got 2 spots in my rotation! The Hi Saber, The Solo, and the Mother fucking Q!
I hope you take it easy on my if I have any noobish question's.
I hope you take it easy on my if I have any noobish question's.
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ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
samirfuzzywuzzy
Well-Known Member
Has anyone figured out what tubing is used on the tuffbowl. I just ordered the short adapter thats on this page and I noticed there is no heat shrink or dedicated place to hold it when it gets hot. Im thinking i can turn the short adapter into a short tuff adapter.
@ oldiebutgoodie, Anytime! 
(for me, the waiting's the hardest part!)
@ Cannabis Connoisseur: Thanks! Completely agreed => Get closer to the heat! Love your setup by the way and can't wait for the video!!! Regarding Daddy Dave, that's one nice truck!!!
@ samirfuzzywuzzy: I just ordered one of these. I believe it will replace any need for a holding mechanism on the adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/American-Educ...37450&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=test+tube+clamp
(for me, the waiting's the hardest part!) @ Cannabis Connoisseur: Thanks! Completely agreed => Get closer to the heat! Love your setup by the way and can't wait for the video!!! Regarding Daddy Dave, that's one nice truck!!!
@ samirfuzzywuzzy: I just ordered one of these. I believe it will replace any need for a holding mechanism on the adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/American-Educ...37450&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=test+tube+clamp
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
I actually had it made in Atlanta at Glass Objects. It's made of thick glass and Im not sure how wide but I just had him put a 18mm fitting on a glass tube n bend it and flare the opening for a mouthpiece. I then had him do the same on a smaller tube with a 14mm and i fit the 14mm into the mouthpiece ouf the 18mm giving me my 2 piece all glass whip. Its all really tough glass and for the custom cyclone bowl and two piece whip i spent $50
THESE MODS= DIFFERENT MACHINE
Best part I'm still elbow screen packing in the 18mm piece you pictured and I use another elbow screen in the cyclone bowl hole. All Glass Path Kicks Ass!!!
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
It's teflon sheathing shrink-wrapped to the bowl. And it does wear off with time.
Omigod, I don't begin to know where to start answering this. There is soooooo much to learn about in the world of glass. You could start with the glass threads here, e.g., the custom FC bubbler and other pieces. Your personal preferences, your vaping style, and your vape, and more, are all factors. Btw, there is a very basic tutorial on the vaporpedia. Here are some basics off the top of my head. (I'll use pieces I have as examples only because I know them.)
You want to use an 18/18 GonG connection with a short length of preferably silicone tubing, so where/how the downstem/joint on the piece is located is a consideration. This will reduce drag.
Size the piece to your lungs and preferred draw. A traditional bong takes a really big pull to fill, and you may not be able to clear it w/o taking a second hit. I like a piece with a can that uses no more than 3/4 of my capacity and so I can clear it in the same draw (my Mobius Clear Micro is like this). Many prefer a bit smaller piece where they can continue the draw thru the piece for a while, and still comfortably clear (the Mobius Ion is a good example).
Action and diffusion: The basic principle is that the more the diffusion the greater moisturizing, at some sacrifice of taste. The method of diffusion, as well as the type of joint (downstem, dewar, stemless, side-car, etc), will affect drag and smoothness.. It's almost impossible to evaluate this w/o actually trying the piece, which of course is not permitted before buying. That's one of the dilemmas of buying glass, and why a lot of people sell/trade pieces. There are a helluva lot of YouTube vids showing glass in action; browsing thru these will give you ideas about all the different types of diffusion. Personally I don't like straight tubes with downstems, and stemless are just OK for me. I like bubblers with my favorite being a dewar style with a good single diffuser, these are virtually effortless (from my sig you can see I'm a Mobius freak). The various diffuser types you've seen are about how the bubbles are made and the draw required, pay attention to number of slits and whether they're gridded. IMO trees tend to be more fragile and have more drag. And sidecar and stemless joint styles can also have more drag; you have to "pop" the resistance into the tube. These of course are all just generalizations, every piece is different.
Durability: You're best off with 5mm borosilicate, it's much stronger. Pay attention to the connections, that they aren't too thin. Most inexpensive pieces are made in China and typically inferior, often quite a bit.
Price: $150 is a bit of a challenge for a quality American made piece. In this range you're typically looking at downstem tubes or bubblers, but even so, IMO bubblers are superb for vaporizing. To get an idea about price range - and this is not the cheapest source but it has a huge inventory - go to ALT and do a search on all Scientific Glass, sorted by price. I noticed this one in your price range as an example, plus here are a couple I've very happily used with the Q that are a tad more expensive:
A small diameter MGW with ~16 slits circ . . .
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/manifest-small-circ-perc-bubbler-platinum.html
Terrific action Headford with 11 inline gridded slits; very smooth and very popular
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/headford-glass-inline-triple-doughnut-bubbler.html
A nice sized Dirty Rico stemless tube with their Apocoline perc; excellent action; sweet for the $. Note this would require a female/female adapter, but also comes with slide and nail for concentrates.
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/scie...-rico-gridded-apocoline-vapor-tube-black.html
That's all I can think of for now. And I've barely scratched the surface.
Good luck!
And, oh, be careful that you don't acquire GAS. Those here for long, frequently do.
Cannabis Connoisseur
I LOVE LIFE
Thanks Oldie, you pointed me in a direction so basically just cough up the cash lolIt's teflon sheathing shrink-wrapped to the bowl. And it does wear off with time.
Omigod, I don't begin to know where to start answering this. There is soooooo much to learn about in the world of glass. You could start with the glass threads here, e.g., the custom FC bubbler and other pieces. Your personal preferences, your vaping style, and your vape, and more, are all factors. Btw, there is a very basic tutorial on the vaporpedia. Here are some basics off the top of my head. (I'll use pieces I have as examples only because I know them.)
You want to use an 18/18 GonG connection with a short length of preferably silicone tubing, so where/how the downstem/joint on the piece is located is a consideration. This will reduce drag.
Size the piece to your lungs and preferred draw. A traditional bong takes a really big pull to fill, and you may not be able to clear it w/o taking a second hit. I like a piece with a can that uses no more than 3/4 of my capacity and so I can clear it in the same draw (my Mobius Clear Micro is like this). Many prefer a bit smaller piece where they can continue the draw thru the piece for a while, and still comfortably clear (the Mobius Ion is a good example).
Action and diffusion: The basic principle is that the more the diffusion the greater moisturizing, at some sacrifice of taste. The method of diffusion, as well as the type of joint (downstem, dewar, stemless, side-car, etc), will affect drag and smoothness.. It's almost impossible to evaluate this w/o actually trying the piece, which of course is not permitted before buying. That's one of the dilemmas of buying glass, and why a lot of people sell/trade pieces. There are a helluva lot of YouTube vids showing glass in action; browsing thru these will give you ideas about all the different types of diffusion. Personally I don't like straight tubes with downstems, and stemless are just OK for me. I like bubblers with my favorite being a dewar style with a good single diffuser, these are virtually effortless (from my sig you can see I'm a Mobius freak). The various diffuser types you've seen are about how the bubbles are made and the draw required, pay attention to number of slits and whether they're gridded. IMO trees tend to be more fragile and have more drag. And sidecar and stemless joint styles can also have more drag; you have to "pop" the resistance into the tube. These of course are all just generalizations, every piece is different.
Durability: You're best off with 5mm borosilicate, it's much stronger. Pay attention to the connections, that they aren't too thin. Most inexpensive pieces are made in China and typically inferior, often quite a bit.
Price: $150 is a bit of a challenge for a quality American made piece. In this range you're typically looking at downstem tubes or bubblers, but even so, IMO bubblers are superb for vaporizing. To get an idea about price range - and this is not the cheapest source but it has a huge inventory - go to ALT and do a search on all Scientific Glass, sorted by price. I noticed this one in your price range as an example, plus here are a couple I've very happily used with the Q that are a tad more expensive:
A small diameter MGW with ~16 slits circ . . .
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/manifest-small-circ-perc-bubbler-platinum.html
Terrific action Headford with 11 inline gridded slits; very smooth and very popular
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/headford-glass-inline-triple-doughnut-bubbler.html
A nice sized Dirty Rico stemless tube with their Apocoline perc; excellent action; sweet for the $. Note this would require a female/female adapter, but also comes with slide and nail for concentrates.
http://aqualabtechnologies.com/scie...-rico-gridded-apocoline-vapor-tube-black.html
That's all I can think of for now. And I've barely scratched the surface.
Good luck!
And, oh, be careful that you don't acquire GAS. Those here for long, frequently do.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
There are also often local glass blowers that can do a good deal for you, if they do this kind of work. And there are websites where you can get used pieces reasonably.
Be sure to check out this section of the forum for independent blowers.
http://fuckcombustion.com/forums/glass.23/
And keep your eye on this, too
http://fuckcombustion.com/forums/classifieds.29/
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Most glass companies just copy each other?
I love the piece you have made.
Looks like I will have the local glass blower make me some parts.
When I try to buy from the glass blowers on this site they say they don't sell direct to the public?
Especially the ones you posted?