$350 for Bud Toaster cube with a set of 3 whips and 3 bowls, and 3 Deans female connectors to connect to your own DC power source.
The Bud Toaster - (currently: Model 14, version 3)
- Thread starter Hippie Dickie
- Start date
yeah, i saw that from the animation on the website ... i personally don't want to suck air through plastic or rubber. But that's just me.
B.
War Criminal
i hope this isn't asked and answered...
have you thought about glass on glass connectors and a way to use the toaster connected to a bong? some kind of 14.4 and 18.8 connection would be huge. can the unit operate upside down, or is that out of the question? if so, an angled adapter would be sooooo nice.
if we water water conditioned vapor will the only option be to connect the toaster with tubing?
have you thought about glass on glass connectors and a way to use the toaster connected to a bong? some kind of 14.4 and 18.8 connection would be huge. can the unit operate upside down, or is that out of the question? if so, an angled adapter would be sooooo nice.
if we water water conditioned vapor will the only option be to connect the toaster with tubing?
i've considered (only in my own mind) glass on glass and it just doesn't fit with my design for this model of the Bud Toaster.
The vial could be loaded upside down to keep the bud from falling out when the bToaster is inverted, but really, that's not a good way to use this model.
Model 14 (this current model) is complete as presented -- except for changes required for easier manufacturing, since i'm the slave doing the fabrication. For example, i need to extend a pad about 3/16" for better power connection to the pcb. And i would really like to move the MOSFET farther away from the heater coil -- although that has not been a problem. And maybe provide power from the pcb to the digital thermometer to eliminate the button cell -- although with auto shutoff, this battery should last years.
i'm pretty sure there will be additional models after this one has proved its value.
And it's been interesting following the thread on "Made in USA" designation ... despite the fact i'm the one (in USA) making this kitty, because the most expensive components, the three SOIC chips, are made in Malaysia, the Bud Toaster will never qualify for "Made in USA" sticker.
The vial could be loaded upside down to keep the bud from falling out when the bToaster is inverted, but really, that's not a good way to use this model.
Model 14 (this current model) is complete as presented -- except for changes required for easier manufacturing, since i'm the slave doing the fabrication. For example, i need to extend a pad about 3/16" for better power connection to the pcb. And i would really like to move the MOSFET farther away from the heater coil -- although that has not been a problem. And maybe provide power from the pcb to the digital thermometer to eliminate the button cell -- although with auto shutoff, this battery should last years.
i'm pretty sure there will be additional models after this one has proved its value.
And it's been interesting following the thread on "Made in USA" designation ... despite the fact i'm the one (in USA) making this kitty, because the most expensive components, the three SOIC chips, are made in Malaysia, the Bud Toaster will never qualify for "Made in USA" sticker.
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
I think the Bud Toaster would qualify for Made in USA or maybe Made in USA with Foreign and Domestic parts, some companies even use a percentage to designate the amount of foreign content. Some parts are just inevitable to be foreign like the Chips and it might be tough to find many of the electrical components that are made in US.
I think it is safe to say that the Made in China thread has nothing to do with your vaporizer considering the amount of effort you have applied to this project and anyone that questions it can just look at your threads. I am sure you have poured as much or even possibly more American blood, sweat, & tears into this vaporizer than any other US vaporizer prototype.
By the way, I didn't even think about the upside down thing when I suggested the use of GonG joints previously.
I think it is safe to say that the Made in China thread has nothing to do with your vaporizer considering the amount of effort you have applied to this project and anyone that questions it can just look at your threads. I am sure you have poured as much or even possibly more American blood, sweat, & tears into this vaporizer than any other US vaporizer prototype.
By the way, I didn't even think about the upside down thing when I suggested the use of GonG joints previously.
DeepFried
A Legend in my Own Mind
Egzoset said:
I think Hippie is being more than flexible with your ideas. If you take the time to read this thread from the beginning you will see that there are a lot of things about this design that are unique and that the OP won't sacrifice. The full glass vapor path is one of them, glass only means no metal screen... even if it is easier to bend - you are completely missing the point.
well, the rules is the rules. i think i'll sticker it "Made by Dickie" -- that should suffice.
Egzoset
Banned
Hi DeepFried,
There's no hidden meaning behind my texts here, i submitted different perspectives and the time to discuss them is over. That's not an hostile attitude and hence Hippie Dickie doesn't need to be rescued... I believe the topic was always about his Bud Toaster project and i wish things will stay that way. I didn't comment further simply because i'm done with my contributions, nothing else!
Well, if it may help, lets say i'd print "assembled in America" on the product to make eventual customers happy. That should do it.
There's no hidden meaning behind my texts here, i submitted different perspectives and the time to discuss them is over. That's not an hostile attitude and hence Hippie Dickie doesn't need to be rescued... I believe the topic was always about his Bud Toaster project and i wish things will stay that way. I didn't comment further simply because i'm done with my contributions, nothing else!
Well, if it may help, lets say i'd print "assembled in America" on the product to make eventual customers happy. That should do it.
Microchip has a programmer board: mine is PICKit 1 that cost $35. Assembler included. It has a USB connector. i have done all Bud Toaster code development on my HP Tablet PC. And yeah, i jury rigged a connection to the surface mount device with a SOIC jumper clip connected to a DIP plug -- pretty standard stuff.
Being old school, i learned all about surface mount from Wikipedia and YouTube. Sure, i had seen surface mount on pc motherboards, but never worked hands on with the components. i love the internet ... one can do anything with such a resource.
Getting the pcb board done is easy once you download and learn the layout tool -- which is free. Minimum price for a batch of boards is about $100 -- for that you can get 10 copies, round or rectangular. Pretty fucking amazing.
budballer
Well-Known Member
Hmm, would you consider selling DIY kits like the PD Pandora? I could do everything except programming the assembled boards, since I know nothing about coding, but would you do that? Just sell the unfinished wood pieces and electronic parts for the purchaser to assemble, finish and, solder together? Less time and work for you, I suppose i could do the board and programming if it was only pre etched though, how much would you charge for that? minus the battery/charger etc.
DIY kit? No. my plan is to only offer complete, tested and ready to run vaporizers. With lifetime warranty (mine) and 100% satisfaction guarantee.
All parts are available from Mouser or Digi-key. Anyone who has the skill to build a Bud Toaster from parts has all the information they need to do the job in this thread. The software is in my public folder on SkyDrive (link in post #1).
All parts are available from Mouser or Digi-key. Anyone who has the skill to build a Bud Toaster from parts has all the information they need to do the job in this thread. The software is in my public folder on SkyDrive (link in post #1).
Voltage must be in the range 6 VDC to 20 VDC.
The maximum current it will try to draw is 12 Amps at 6 VDC and 40 Amps at 20 VDC.
The AVERAGE current to maintain SETPOINT temperature will be about 15% of that, but if it can't pull at least 1.8 amps, performance will be out of spec.
The Merlot is making me think this is wrong. For example, the 16awg cable is a current limiter, so i'm not really sure how much amps is enough. The statement about maximum current is right. Voltage range depends on the Vreg supplying power to the chips. It's hard to find a "low drop out" Vreg with a high top end. The MOSFET is good to 30 Volts, 80 Amps. But 30 volts would fry the Vreg.
The maximum current it will try to draw is 12 Amps at 6 VDC and 40 Amps at 20 VDC.
The AVERAGE current to maintain SETPOINT temperature will be about 15% of that, but if it can't pull at least 1.8 amps, performance will be out of spec.
The Merlot is making me think this is wrong. For example, the 16awg cable is a current limiter, so i'm not really sure how much amps is enough. The statement about maximum current is right. Voltage range depends on the Vreg supplying power to the chips. It's hard to find a "low drop out" Vreg with a high top end. The MOSFET is good to 30 Volts, 80 Amps. But 30 volts would fry the Vreg.
budballer said:
i ONLY use the A123Systems 26650 cells. Two wired in series as the battery pack.
LiFePO4 chemistry with nano-technology.
10 to 100 times the life of typical LiIon batteries.
No memory effect.
Won't explode or blow up during charging - don't need a fireproof box during charge.
Can deliver 70 Amps continuous.
Also, 1 hour run time, 30 minute recharge (2 batteries)
Truly righteous batteries.
i don't see a 20% price saving to be worth switching to an unknown (to me) brand even if the specs are the same.
As far as i'm concerned the battery pack is a solved problem. Switching batteries would not reduce the retail price of the Bud Toaster.
As far as i'm concerned the battery pack is a solved problem. Switching batteries would not reduce the retail price of the Bud Toaster.
i apologize if i come off as defensive -- i think the problem is that i'm an asshole (i'll take gf's word for that).
i spend all day thinking about business models -- well, two business models, anyway -- so i've "sharpened" my view on this product, pricing and performance. In the long run, the cost of components should have no impact on pricing. Compared to labor and all the other costs involved in running a business, the parts are free -- and therefore don't contribute to the price.
i spend all day thinking about business models -- well, two business models, anyway -- so i've "sharpened" my view on this product, pricing and performance. In the long run, the cost of components should have no impact on pricing. Compared to labor and all the other costs involved in running a business, the parts are free -- and therefore don't contribute to the price.
budballer
Well-Known Member
whatever you do, i hope it works out, this is deffinately one of the best vaporizer designs ive seen on the market. How adjustable is the temperature range? or will you make it fixed and just use the circuit board to adjust for temp drops when the user begins to pull air through.
Temperature is totally user selectable. Top end is limited to 500F via software.
Fatory setting is 420F, which turns out to deliver 385F air into the center of the bud vial.
User input is three buttons to increase temp by 5F, decrease by 4F, or use the current temp as the new SETPOINT.
SETPOINT is remembered between sessions, so the Bud Toaster always returns to the last used session.
IF the temp gets stonered, there is a "return to factory defaults" via a button press and hold.
Until i can tune the coefficients, temperature stabilility is "only" + or - 0.5F
Fatory setting is 420F, which turns out to deliver 385F air into the center of the bud vial.
User input is three buttons to increase temp by 5F, decrease by 4F, or use the current temp as the new SETPOINT.
SETPOINT is remembered between sessions, so the Bud Toaster always returns to the last used session.
IF the temp gets stonered, there is a "return to factory defaults" via a button press and hold.
Until i can tune the coefficients, temperature stabilility is "only" + or - 0.5F
yes. 6 files of my code, plus a file that defines PIC stuff. Runs about 45 pages or so.