I believe I'm in the same exact boat as you fellas.
Still would like input on best ripping upgraded stem.....
That reason, I think, is because there is no best. Too personal, to subjective. All the topic brings out is the same old opinions from the usual suspects. The only useful answer can be 'what's good for you'. You're the only guy that can decide that.
Keep in mind this ain't blazing. No extra heat is generated in response to a heavy hit, in fact quite the opposite. Fight it, rush the draw it's designed for and you're going to get less vapor produced. The maker knows about this, he's designed in restriction he describes as "balanced". His term. As a practical matter you can only go so far since you can't change the four holes at the bottom (where all the air now enters the system unlike Solo).
That said, go for it. PVHES Turbos are probably your best bet for biggest increase (in volume per minute, at lower density). The available boost is less on Air, of course, due to the better stem seal. This has been tossed around a fair bit, the general advice is to not to try to force the vape to do something it's not designed to do ('don't force it') I think?
Oh, yeah, you might seriously consider Ed's stems, they too have little restriction, but if you pull to hard the vapor thins out same as always.
Then again, I'm a MMJ type, perhaps one of the resident cloud chasers can offer better advice?
can anyone comfirm if you get clouds like you would from a joint/bong? and how is the high? when i used MFLB i only felt more head high than body (i would like 50/50 or a bit more on the body high side.
I think you're wide of the mark here. This is not really a vape specific question, it belongs in the 'ask FC' thread where it'll get proper attention and not sidetrack us too much.
The short answer is 'it depends'. The two are very different, but can perform in similar manners sometimes. Generally you 'tune' effects by temperature, but you need to get some of the basics down first I think. That should be done in the general topic area?
And, as has been said, to play this game you really have to swear off blazing at any level for a short while, then after a little longer you'll find it so revolting you won't want to anyway..........
Regards and good luck.
Bought mine the weekend it first came out the serial #A1z0A80230. I get a quick light blue flash then the idle blue, then goes to heat when I press again to lowest level white. I see no battery indicator. Mine came with the two plastic tipped mouthpieces with the threading one short and one a little longer. It also came with a Solo straight stem.
Great, I think we've basically got it. It's real, seems to be mostly time related (new guys have it, guys with one plastic and one all glass stem for the most part). I think I may have misquoted my S/N, but the format above is right, it starts A1Z0A as well. But 'earlier' numbers are later production? I think the serial number is once again (like in Solo) not to be counted on at this level?
I'm (in my simplistic way) looking at this as
the first flash of standby is either always blue (no 'meter') or color coded on the first flash (only) for later versions. Does everyone agree with that definition? TIA
You guys seem to have missed the video I posed a page back
Power indicator:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-90#post-728487
Bought from Randy a day after they came into stock.
A10N
Thanks Bro, I saw it and still can't play it for some computer reason.
OF