olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
So that really quick, abnormally bright flash is the reading? Come on Arizer, how about making it long enough to check out? And it uses the same 'scale' as heat? 3 levels: Green to orange to red? Come on Arizer, why only 3?

And, of course my usual gripe with this color coding BS. It's useless to many of us who are color blind. Perfect choice, half of us have trouble with (you guessed it.....) reds and greens. Any other choice would have meant more understanding the code. I'm going to set up a test, but I bet I can't tell the difference (and I know I'm not alone, half of about 8% of all men are this way.....one out of 25 are red/green color blind to some extent).

Instead they could, for instance, have flashed once, twice or 3 times? Then everyone who could count could play. Like I do to set the heat level (count up from the bottom or down from the top).

Thanks for the information, useless as it seems to me personally. It makes sense. The topic has come up a time or two before, but I don't recall anyone saying definitively the way it worked, and I recall a chap from the EU coming back and saying 'never mind'????

Of course Arizer could have told us, but what's the fun in that?

OF

No sorry if I was not clear, I am a poor communicator lol. The bright flash tells you to take your fingers off of the power buttons, that you held them long enough. After that there is a color indicated (power), then it shuts off and a blue light is shown, the idle light (blinks). If you hit the up arrow it goes to blue temp. Temperature is 5 steps. 1=blue, 2=white, 3=green, 4=yellow, 5=red

For power indicator starting it starts with green and ends with yellow then red. I know blue and white are used as well, just need to test and remember at what points.

EDIT, @OF (so you see this):

And yeah I agree arizer is kind of annoying because they treat us like idiots IMO. Its almost with a dislike, FC=misinformation (what they basically told me), that guy who suggested shorter stem apparently was answered back in a negative talking down manner (wasnt he just trying to spend more $ on a reasonable accessory that is included in the box anyways?). They dont explain their device well at all. Shitty laughable manual. Long list of things I dislike them for.

Your annoyance is understandable. But to be honest I kind of understand, as a user who can read the colors it is much faster and logical to have a color LED vs having to count the number of blinks. Maybe there is something else they could have done that would be quick, compact and still readable by more people.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
The bright flash tells you to take your fingers off of the power buttons, that you held them long enough. After that there is a color indicated (power), then it shuts off and a blue light is shown, the idle light (blinks).

But to be honest I kind of understand, as a user who can read the colors it is much faster and logical to have a color LED vs having to count the number of blinks. Maybe there is something else they could have done that would be quick, compact and still readable by more people.

Thanks again, this is even stranger now. I get a bright flash followed by a blank with the normal blue idle flash following with the pattern as if the initial flash counted as the first on (although short in time). No indication at all of anything green, orange or red (I can see blue well, it's blue, the same blue on each flash). Mine is one of the very first (came with two plastic top stems and a full length Solo stem, no short all glass), I wonder if there was a software change?

Are other folks seeing 'flash, battery color code, than blue flashing idle'? Anyone else not see this color coded flash?

Thanks for making it all the more confusing........

I get it's not optimum to count flashes to those that don't need to, so how about using the unused lower LED for that? It's not needed until we start heating, right?

OF

Edit: So I went and read the manual (yeah, I know.....). It says nothing about this. It doesn't indicate the upper ("heat") LED doing anything more than showing idle and using the color coded steps for heating.

The "state" LED (the lower one) flashes blue to heat, solid blue at temperature, turns red when the battery needs charging. On charging it flashes green to solid green at end of charge. Which is exactly what I see, except for the bright short flash part.

OF
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
While monkeying around with my iPad mini, as I tried to take a pix of my Air, I noticed that on the screen the lights on the Air can be seen blinking. Looking directly at it, it seemed steady on.

It must be on blink mode, but rapidly enough that the human eye cannot differentiate it from a steady on.

On blink mode a battery charge lasts a bit longer. If an Arizer engineer implement this, it is BRILLIANT! Awesome sauce.

Or perhaps I am hallucinating again. Memories of Tim Leary. & LSD.

Could someone confirm or refute this, please.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
While monkeying around with my iPad mini, as I tried to take a pix of my Air, I noticed that on the screen the lights on the Air can be seen blinking.

Could someone confirm or refute this, please.

This is normal. The lights are actually flashed at a fast rate (multiplexing going on), but your eye sees it 'all run together' like frames in a movie.

Here's a test, wave the unit around in a dark place, the lights leave a trail of dots. It has to do with when exactly the phone 'snaps' the frame.

OTOH I can't get the video to play (of course......it happens sometimes depending on the server it seems). Hopefully you folks with normal eyes will sort this out for me?

OF
 
While monkeying around with my iPad mini, as I tried to take a pix of my Air, I noticed that on the screen the lights on the Air can be seen blinking. Looking directly at it, it seemed steady on.

It must be on blink mode, but rapidly enough that the human eye cannot differentiate it from a steady on.

On blink mode a battery charge lasts a bit longer. If an Arizer engineer implement this, it is BRILLIANT! Awesome sauce.

Or perhaps I am hallucinating again. Memories of Tim Leary. & LSD.

Could someone confirm or refute this, please.

Can confirm you are not tripping.

I noticed this too by taking it to a rave where someone asked me to wave it around; you can easily see the LEDs strobe while it is moving. I have a string of cheap LED christmas lights that subtly strobe like that too
 

radonn123

Member
So, I have been watching my Arizer Air LED blinking from full charge to nearly empty. I can pretty much confirm that the second flash after turning on your Air is your battery level. From what I saw, it goes from green, white, yellow, red to indicate how much battery you have left. Very interesting!!
 

OF

Well-Known Member
From what I saw, it goes from green, white, yellow, red to indicate how much battery you have left. Very interesting!!

Interesting indeed. Different from what ONJ reports? Different order, different colors? ONJ doesn't see yellow but orange (yellow is not on the list of 'heat colors') and no white (which you're reporting 'out of the order used for heat levels'?).

And the whole thing is basically 'upside down' compared to heat levels? That is with heat red it the highest level, but with battery it's the lowest...... Meanwhile I can't see anything but blue for this all important color coded flash (one nobody else has?). I find that all interesting at least.

Until this is sorted out, I'll keep counting sessions I guess.

Thanks.

OF
 
OF,

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
Hmm sounds odd to me , guys...
Perhaps as @OF suggested, different soft/firmwares ?
I recently got mine, I believe it's new because it came with the two short stems only.
When I turn on MY Arizer Air, a quick flash of green appears, then nothing until I let go of the button.
Then, the standby flashing upper blue light begins, waiting for me to choose a heat level.
I have gone through many charge cycles/batteries, and this primary green flash never changes.
Of course, I only recently began paying attention to this, from reading the forum.
However 2 batteries later (I vape a lot), I haven't noticed any change in the startup lights.
Also, my power indicator/heating light never turns yellow, it's either flashing blue for heating, solid blue for stable heat, then will just suddenly turn red , dead battery, no warning.
Should we compare serial numbers ? Mine starts with "A1oU" or "A1OU", black, for US.

With dilligence and tenacity, we WILL figure this thing out in its entirety !!!!!! I have faith in fc forum, he he heh....:tup::lol:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Should we compare serial numbers ? Mine starts with "A1oU" or "A1OU", black, for US.

With dilligence and tenacity, we WILL figure this thing out in its entirety !!!!!! I have faith in fc forum, he he heh....:tup::lol:

So you're seeing just what I am? FWIW, my S/N starts "A10Z"...... Maybe we do have a software change?

Do I misunderstand, the 'battery level color code' is on the lower LED? I don't see anything there until heating starts. And that initial flash is green? Cool, all I see is abnormally bright and real fast. Not like a normal flash (like in idle or charging).

I agree we can beat this one.........and if we can't well just pretend? Who will ever know?

Thanks for the extra information.

OF
 

DJ Colonel Corn

The Vapor Ninja
So you're seeing just what I am? FWIW, my S/N starts "A10Z"...... Do I misunderstand, the 'battery level color code' is on the lower LED? I don't see anything there until heating starts. And that initial flash is green?

OF
Mine's on the upper.
My lower light only blinks blue while heating and stays solid when heated.
I have also seen a ligher shade of blue appear.
With mine, brief upper light lights green when powered on, but it's an off-green, not the same color as the heating green. This may not help @OF or any other color blind people, but.....that's what mine's doing.
I am now purposefully running mine down (while medicating of course) to see if there is any difference in the pre-start light color. Let ya know what happens.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
This may not help @OF or any other color blind people, but.....that's what mine's doing.
I am now purposefully running mine down (while medicating of course) to see if there is any difference in the pre-start light color. Let ya know what happens.

On the contrary, knowing I'm not alone restores some faith in what I think I'm seeing. Then again we might both be crazy. No big deal there, of course, as long as we don't go to the same group sessions. I don't think you're in my group........

Small world, I'm doing exactly the same thing. Just ground up a bit of Girl Scout Cookies for the next shift. I think the fourth (meaning it'll lock out time after that?). So I think we're in a race here, one I don't think I can possibly win, even if you hadn't got that head start.

Thanks for the continuing information.

Just ordered an Air. Curious about where to get a GonG stem?

Planet Vape is popular, any Solo stem fits. Some like Ed's (wood) stems for this.

OF
 

rotax

Zaporist
Planet Vape is popular, any Solo stem fits. Some like Ed's (wood) stems for this.

OF

Thanks for the info.

Also just recently read that a silicone tube can be put over the stock stems to seal on 14mm GonG. Anyone know the silicone diameter? Seems this would work real well with the PNWT..
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info.

Also just recently read that a silicone tube can be put over the stock stems to seal on 14mm GonG. Anyone know the silicone diameter? Seems this would work real well with the PNWT..

Yer welcome.

The plastic top stems need nothing more. I did just that yesterday. For the glass ones, half inch ID. Some just use a rubber band.....

Yes, it works well with F Bomb, PNWT and the rest. Or you can invert it on anything your want.

For regular WT use I think you should get a real GonG from PV, sooner or later a cobbled up connection is going to break a stem. OK for a trial, but not an every day thing. See Ataxian for help breaking the glass if you need it.

OF
 

olivianewtonjohn

Well-Known Member
Man I really wish they would decrease the temperature of the lowest setting (blue). I think this is one of the largest negatives, a lower starting temp would mean more comfortable hits when using the short stem. My o-ring is getting loose. Nothing bad or major, stem is held in place when flipping upside down. Hopefully it does not get any looser. Another negative is the battery cap is starting to get some wear on the copper ring that comes into contact with the copper pin. Its not too bad but I worry that with time it will only get worse, seems like a poor design to me; there should be a better way.

After two dry stems I moved on to water tools:

Just used it with my GB-187 bubbler (mobius clone) and then my 16" double honeycomb (this one is larger diameter-lots of capacity). It ripped! I used the hottest setting throughout. And awesome being connected to the charger, the charger is a perfect length for my outlet. Im going to order another stem and also silicone caps (arizer ones not the PV ones). Also added a screen to the herb chamber and to the stem. I used course screens to minimize restriction. I found I could trace the size using a stem then tape the screen over the trace and cut with sizzors, pretty easy.

EDIT: Also after running highest temperature tests, I found the solo extracts alot more. Taking ABV from arizer air to solo, produced many large hits. I will have to take out the air oven screen and test more to see if that is making a difference.
 
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peterpiper

(peter-ex-piper)
Ok so im getting 4 sessions from a full battery, next start up shows red (charge now).thats 2 on green and 2 on red.
I am clearing 2 bowls worth (which is going some for me, is pressed pollom)
So im assuming about right?
There is a battery level indicator. The first two sessions showed green and then 2 showed yellow, then the solid red light.
 

peterpiper

(peter-ex-piper)
Ok
Just charged to full solid green light then ran 2 sessions back to back (1green 1 red) whilst still plugged in.
It shows flashing yellow top light after it times out. It does this for 5 mins then goes back to flashing green light to show is charging.
What surprised me was the two sessions took another 45 - 60 mins to go back to solid green light.
The same as if i used just battery and not plugged in.!!
 
peterpiper,
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