Justpassedu
Well-Known Member
I tried grinding my flowers last night super fine and packed really loose , i swear i got about 20 huge rips of clouds on green for my whole session using the shorty stem. Really liking the air allot.
Gentle Friends,
Look what happens if you buy one of these:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/glass...rb-vaporizer/213068750.html#palceorder-1-null
And stick a 3/4 inch or so piece of 1/2 inch OD (3/8 ID) silicone tube in the bottom instead of the cheap oil 'skillet' that comes with it ........it fits wonderfully on our favorite new vape:
Not only is it a surprisingly effective little bubbler it's also 'spill proof'. Yep, you can put it in your pocket full to the mark and not get a wet shirt. In fact you need to remember to lay the whole thing on it's side (or hold it upside down) when you take it off or suction will pull water out.
Anyway, a bit crude (in terms of alignment of parts), but well made and effective (at least this one is). And the price is certainly attractive ($20 shipped). It's basically the same diameter and not quite as long as the Air itself (without stem).
For ten bucks more you can get it as a set with a cheap eGo battery (your choice of size) and nice zipper case as well. Anyway, after a day's testing and fiddling (two spills.....) I recommend it if you're at all inclined to such stuff. Get 'em quick before they're all gone...
OF
looks like a vaporfection inline perc.
If you say so, never had the pleasure personally.
This one fits 'just right'. Does that one (or is it a GonG)?
Edit: I just looked it up, looks similar. Four times the bucks (plus shipping?), not good for guys like our Ataxian with high glass breakage rates....... It also looks like it's tubing based?
OF
I just tried to test AA metal heating chamber with a temperature gun and it gave me something life 220F lol. wtf?
well that explains it.I believe optical temp sensors don't work on some surfaces, especially those that are reflective.
All of it, in the Solo thread we often recommend newbies let the stem soak for an additional 20-30 seconds after it reaches temperature to let everything heat up (oven + glass + material) to get better clouds faster. The more experienced can start getting clouds a bit sooner. The hot air of course plays the part of moving the heat from the heater through the goods. With the Solo if you pull hard enough you can see the airflow overwhelm the heater and it will drop 1 or 2 steps and then heat back up to temperature. The vapor starts to thin out thereabout as well. Conduction from the glass stem (if you leave a load in and don't draw on it, it still vaporizes somewhat) plus the convection of the heater getting the air warm and through the material, and maybe some IR as well? I'm not sure how much of a part it plays in this system.well that explains it.
btw what is mainly heating the herbs in AA and the solo? is it the air when you draw, the metal chamber, or the glass bowl?
isnt that a china supplier? not worried that they woukd be using china glass? the vaporfection units are boro.
I just tried to test AA metal heating chamber with a temperature gun and it gave me something life 220F lol. wtf?
I believe optical temp sensors don't work on some surfaces, especially those that are reflective.
well that explains it.
btw what is mainly heating the herbs in AA and the solo? is it the air when you draw, the metal chamber, or the glass bowl?
One more question.
Is it okay to wipe the metal chamber with 90% ISO after each use? it won't damage or rust right?
Thanks for explaining! very interesting. It seems like you know A LOT about all this. I read your post in the solo thread where you were testing the temps of the solo. I didn't really understand it. Did you test it 3 times each at different temps(steps) ?Worried? Actually I'm confident it's "China glass" (that is Chinese made). Do you have a problem with that????
Exactly so. The missing factor is "emissivity", it's a critical (missing) factor (obviously).
http://www.optotherm.com/emiss-effects.htm
The default number is typically .95. Shiny metals, like you're most likely 'shooting' are much lower:
http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/IREducation/EmissivityTableMetals.htm
If you want to make sense of this good stuff you really need to shift to Thermocouple sensors in the load. Like I did here, 'sniffing at different points:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-729#post-450224
Similar efforts with Pinnacle found some interesting temperature distribution within the oven:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-pinnacle-by-vaporblunt.8431/page-106#post-508425
Of perhaps the most interest is the Ascent testing:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/ascent-vaporizer-by-davinci.9885/page-111#post-459922
Lots of good insights to be had that way I think.
Conduction, overwhelmingly I think. Although heat in Solo (and therefore I assume Air) is spread through the load by convection it seems, it gets into the load by conduction. It can't be using IR to any useful extent since the temperatures are basically the same (high IR transfer rates depend on large temperature differences). It can be seen that for the most part temperature drops as cold air is drawing in, like in Ascent.
Unlike say Cera or VG there is not a big difference to work with, nor (like say HA) a small difference but a very large surface area in the exchanger to heat the air. Air and Solo are more like Vapman.
Should be fine, lots of guys do. Just be careful to use a minimum, you don't want it getting into the heater area under the cup (where it could 'flash off' and break the cement bond).
OF
Thanks for explaining! very interesting. It seems like you know A LOT about all this.
Did you test it 3 times each at different temps(steps) ?
I ran the test many times under different conditions, I just posted a few examples.
Basically I can confirm OF's findings of an increase in temperature during the draw. My findings show a wider margin that OF's, by a few degrees, but are not that far off from his results.
It even gets more interesting if we look at air/vapor temps downstream of oven, when compared to vapor density.Fun stuff if you like that sort of stuff, otherwise all it really does is explain to others why you enjoy your vape so much.....
OF
The theory goes that the higher the vapor concentration, the more heat required to heat an equal amount of thick vapor vs thin/no vapor(specific heat of air vs. steam). So the downstream air temp rises with increasing airflow, until the oven/load's vapor production thins, then downstream temps spike toward oven temp, burning lips.
so I just saw puffitup has the air in stock, has anyone already successfully got the price dowb with pricematching?
I'm in europe, so I'm hesitating to order it now from puffitup, or wait till an european retailer has it in stock. if I can get it from within europe that saves me paying any custom duties(and probably lower shipping costs), but if I can get the price down enough with pricematching it could actually be cheaper if I order it from the US(especially since the conversion rate from dollars to euro already makes it cheaper to order from the US than the price of european retailers)
saw your message after I posted mine, thanks, seems like they have the air in stock and cheaper as other eu retailers I've seen too.Namastevapes are Europe based. I'm in NZ but got my Solo through them and they were great. Pretty sure they are Germany based.
It's original thought based on specific heat of air vs. steam. Hot air is converted to vapor as it passes over load with no energy gained or lost(+\- conduction). The more Vapor produced, the higher the specific heat of the new mix, the more the same heat energy gets 'diluted', the lower the outlet temp.Interesting. Where did this theory come from, I don't think I'm following?
OF