Summer
Long Island, NY
@sickmanfraud, boost level? 
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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Mr. Gweilo 420
Dude
11!
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
@sickmanfraud, boost level?
Boost is a setting on DNA250C mods (probably on other DNA versions as well) that gets the vapor started by "boosting" the heat/speed. There is a scale from 0 (no boost) to 11.
When I first started playing around with DNA configurations I figured more is better. Not so with boost/punch. Now that I have the boost set to 5 or lower I have been getting much more even "roasting" of my medicine with no hot spots.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Sounds cool, do you have a pic of the Z on the double barrel? The original Zion had a potentiometer knob, so it makes sense that its great for the Z too. I am also using my Z in wattage mode with my G3D and surmyevic using short autofire.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
yes, but not exactly. There is still a pre-heat option. Boost is more like "instant" vapor 0 to 60 in a second or 2.
CrazyCory564
New Member
Question about Arctic Fox sttings with Splinter Z.
I want to try a bunch of FW. Already have settings for my DNA250c Triade, and I have a VTC Dual on the way to throw the tubomyevic fw on it.
Finally, I have my wismec reuleaux rxgen3 and just installed arctic fox on it. however, this seems to be the only FW of which i can't find settings people have used in regards to their Splinter Z. Tried searches on here, google, etc. only found OG splinter and v2 settings; nothing for splinter z.
can anyone point me in the right direction or to someone who has experience using AF wuth splinter z?
eh, not quite. they are essentially the same thing for different circumstances.
Boost is for any power mode; it allows the mod to send more power than set for an allotted amount of time in order to get the coil up to temp faster, but it is not related to TC directly.
pre-heat is specifically for TC modes, and is more specific/integrated with the TCR settings. it is an added variable which takes the TCR settings in to account; it will still use the boost setting, but that boost itself will be throttled at times in order to maintain the set temperature.
Boost just boosts initial power output in general; pre-heat does so while taking your TC settings in to account
edit: apologies for double post. didnt see edit button. first post
I want to try a bunch of FW. Already have settings for my DNA250c Triade, and I have a VTC Dual on the way to throw the tubomyevic fw on it.
Finally, I have my wismec reuleaux rxgen3 and just installed arctic fox on it. however, this seems to be the only FW of which i can't find settings people have used in regards to their Splinter Z. Tried searches on here, google, etc. only found OG splinter and v2 settings; nothing for splinter z.
can anyone point me in the right direction or to someone who has experience using AF wuth splinter z?
eh, not quite. they are essentially the same thing for different circumstances.
Boost is for any power mode; it allows the mod to send more power than set for an allotted amount of time in order to get the coil up to temp faster, but it is not related to TC directly.
pre-heat is specifically for TC modes, and is more specific/integrated with the TCR settings. it is an added variable which takes the TCR settings in to account; it will still use the boost setting, but that boost itself will be throttled at times in order to maintain the set temperature.
Boost just boosts initial power output in general; pre-heat does so while taking your TC settings in to account
edit: apologies for double post. didnt see edit button. first post
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bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
It's not really an answer to your question but I abandoned Arctic Fox and put myevic on my rxg3d and the results are impressive with my Z and my V1. Locking the resistance at .4ohms and maybe tweaking the PID values was all I did for the Z and the rx gen3 dual pumps out dense now in both modes. Honestly it's probably a heavier hitter than my dna mods but I prefer the lasting flavor and more even roasting so for me it's worth the tradeoff.
almost there
Well-Known Member
does the Double Barrel have the 10 sec max puff time cutoff?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
DNA mods use TRF so any of the FCSHARE files use them in the material profiles. Here are a couple to get you started. Copy to note save as .CSV file
"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-100,0.893704748116836
0,0.956322712973527
70,1.00000966519913
200,1.07170991749219
400,1.17004388188771
600,1.25565497949471
800,1.3322987553291
"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-58,0.923065366374551
68,1.00000368733401
212,1.12000101805187
302,1.14999062647438
392,1.18997677103774
482,1.24252665557577
572,1.27450001241534
800,1.36050134084879
"Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity"
-100,0.9066162109375
68,1
237.9375,1.0943603515625
552.625,1.2691650390625
800,1.4066162109375
Here is a link to more files material files and info
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65874-ss316l-help/?tab=comments#comment-891610
Lozo
Well-Known Member
CrazyCory564
New Member
That's fine, but to be frank, I'm not interested in what others experience has been with each firmware; I want to try them all for myself and make my own decision based in my personal preference, no offense intended. I see absolutely no reason to out MyEvic software on the rx when I just ordered a VTC Dual specifically to try MyEvic custom FW like tubo and sur. If I we're going to try diffeeendfirmware on the gen3 (not dual), I would be trying something g else entirely rather than evic software. That's kind of why I got the Joyetech mod which natively uses MyEvic.
The DNA I have some settings for. Just none for Arctic fox not actually sure how PI works so I'm worried about plugging shit in and messing crap up lol
I do appreciate the input, but I feel much more comfortable trying it myself rather than taking someone else's word for it. I just want some baseline settings to work with tuned for the z but no one seems to have done so.
Side note: my coil resistance seems to read around d 0.37 (0.372-0.374 ish cold reading on DNAc)
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
OK, so the one issue I have with the VT75D and my Z is that it is a little slow to get started. I find I need draw for 5 to 10 seconds before the vapor flows well enough. Is that best managed with Boost or Preheat, and how much should I use? I have been doing it manually by just hitting for a while not expecting vapor and then returning for the goodness, but if there is a better way of addressing that I'm all ears.
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mixchu69
Well-Known Member
They're here. ..[QUOTE="DDave, post: 1356064, member:
Awaiting 316 SS (not 304) Stainless Screens and will be releasing a Cooler that fits all these 510 box mod vapes.
[/QUOTE]Is this the same cooling stem?
https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p80/The_Ultimate_Cooling_Stem.html
edit: it looked like the old cooler, but realize in the description that it is not the tubo evic cooler (look similar)
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Posted some of material files that you can use in arctic fox that are TRF for splinterZ Not sure what your looking for?
triskelion
Member
Please check the screw of the 510 thread of the atomizer, it is the contact point between the atomizer and your mod.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
I'd like to learn more about this too. Sometimes I switch to wattage and hit the fire button at 45W for two or three five second holds to warm things up before actually vaping with it in TC. Just something I saw Ryan do with a cheap VTC mod.OK, so the one issue I have with the VT75D and my Z is that it is a little slow to get started. I find I need draw for 5 to 10 seconds before the vapor flows well enough. Is that best managed with Boost or Preheat, and how much should I use? I have been doing it manually by just hitting for a while not expecting vapor and then returning for the goodness, but if there is a better way of addressing that I'm all ears.
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Easywider
Simple is the way
With the paranormal I just received a few days ago I've been using it on watt boost: Settings , 45 watts, boost on , punch 9, warmth 5. These settings seem to give me the fastest response time. From cold I give a 2 second pre heat and a 5 second draw and I get a nice size cloud. 7 seconds from cold start
No need for pre heating after that. These settings have me heating up really fast and extracting really fast but the trade off is the flavour fades quickly. What I do to get around this is hit save on replay after the second or third puff to limit the heat increase for a longer tastier session without loosing the speedy heat up. @cybrguy I think I understand DNA Boost vs Punch / Preheat but not well enough to explain in my own words.
Here's a short discussion from the evolve form with the creators. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69858-boost-versus-punch/
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
Is this the same cooling stem?They're here. ..
https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p80/The_Ultimate_Cooling_Stem.html
edit: it looked like the old cooler, but realize in the description that it is not the tubo evic cooler (look similar)[/QUOTE]
Interesting being only 18mm it work with the splinter too. Btw the added distance from load and cooling effect of vapor path it should be a very smooth experience. Rarely buy glass cause of hands but tempted on this.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Interesting being only 18mm it work with the splinter too. Btw the added distance from load and cooling effect of vapor path it should be a very smooth experience. Rarely buy glass cause of hands but tempted on this.[/QUOTE]
I'm interested in this cooling stem for my Splinters. The photos are poor and don't really show me what the stem looks like. There's also a mention of glass beads which I can't see from the photos.
Has anyone used, reviewed, or recommended this stem yet?
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