Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

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Vision103

Vision103

Vision103
Monkeyhouse said:
Here's a link to the glass he is most likely using, https://www.mountainglass.com/German-Male-19-26-Bistabil-Joint-130mm-200 , as you can see the price varies for less that $2 per joint to $2.75 depending on the quantities he's buying. And as an amateur glass blower myself I think I have a fairly good idea of how much effort and time it takes to make an Xl8r. Also being a novice does not mean you get to charge more for your work, if anything it means you have to charge less as the quality of your work isn't as nice as someone with years of experience. And I'm not comparing these stems to heady bongs or anything, I'm talking about simple dry pipes with out color or even chillums, pieces that still take more time and effort to make than an Xl8r yet cost less.
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So don't buy it. Find someone else. Complaining isn't cool.
 
Vision103,
Hammahead

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
So I bought a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250c Box Mod cause everyone said it's the shit. Everyone was right, mega upgrade, and I'm just starting. Makes the SplinterZ pretty much my exclusive @home vaporizer. First used it in simple basic watt mode, and it worked way better than my Wismec Sinuous 80, more even toasting, I didn't even need stirring, how's that even work? Playing around with @HerbieVonVapster's *.ecigprofile now (kudos to you and thanks!!), adjusting profiles to my water pieces and the mouthpiece. Life's high and I'm good af.
 
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
You remind me of an important point, and when I mention how relatively zipless the setup of my VT75D has been, that is likely totally due to having @HerbieVonVapster 's profile and Frank's Theme already built for me ready to just plug in. So, yes, the DNA chips are great, but so is the help from @HerbieVonVapster . Thank you very much, Sir.

Gonna CP this to TC Boxmods...
 
bossman

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
My bubinga Z on an Hcigar VT75D and a Lost Vape Paranormal:
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billygoat

New Member
alleyhoops said:
Guys, finally got my Splinter Z today in the mail. The USPS driver lost my package under his seat. It's been in there since last Thursday. I was kind of panicking because of what I spent for this and I was hoping it was not lost. I do need some help setting up my RX GEN3 Dual with Arctic Fox. I really thought I had some sort of idea, but I am pretty lost. I posted an image below of these settings. I scanned through this thread last week in anticipation, but still I am pretty unsure of everything. There are so many settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I am trying to set up my splinter z using arcticfox as well. Instead of using TCR, I plan on using a TFR curve. I want to map each temp to a resistance for the Splinter Z but to do this I need to have an accurate temp gun and need to accurately record the resistance at the specific time I take the temp. Before I do this, I was wondering if anyone else has used TFR for the Splinter Z.
jOHosyD.png


I could also use the PI-regulator, but TFR is more accurate.. Here are the values I've found on reddit.com for PI regulated settings for a regular Splinter.

Nj7eYYK.png




jOHosyD
 
billygoat,
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billygoat

New Member
KeroZen said:
same
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PI creates a linear line from a base ohm reading where the resistance (ohms) falls on that line is then translated into temperature. Whereas, TFR let's you create a bunch of points that correspond to actual temperatures based on resistance. This allows you to be much more accurate. TFR curves in arctic fox are assigned to each metal (nickel, SS, etc). What we lack is a TFR curve for the splinter. That is what I was hoping to get.
 
billygoat,
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KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
No no, PI(D) is just a kind of control loop algorithm, it has nothing to do with coil material. The P and I coefficients describe how fast the target (set temp) will be reached and how fast it will stabilize (including amount of ripple etc) You should enable it in all cases as the stock TC algo in these devices is just plain awful.

I think you are mixing it with TCR vs TFR (ie. a single coeff for material vs a plot with a points list), and indeed TFR should be preferred if possible. And indeed again, we don't have such a TFR curve for the Splinter heater (but I've been successfully using the 316 and 316L ones with my iHeat for instance)

We just know the RBT heater is made of some kind of stainless steel grade but that's all. So it would make sense to tweak a 304, 316, 317 or 340 curve as a starting point.
 
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billygoat

New Member
KeroZen said:
No no, PI(D) is just a kind of control loop algorithm, it has nothing to do with coil material. The P and I coefficients describe how fast the target (set temp) will be reached and how fast it will stabilize (including amount of ripple etc) You should enable it in all cases as the stock TC algo in these devices is just plain awful.

TI think you are mixing it with TCR vs TFR (ie. a single coeff for material vs a plot with a points list), and indeed TFR should be preferred if possible. And indeed again, we don't have such a TFR curve for the Splinter heater (but I've been successfully using the 316 and 316L ones with my iHeat for instance)

We just know the RBT heater is made of some kind of stainless steel grade but that's all. So it would make sense to tweak a 304, 316, 317 or 340 curve as a starting point.
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Thanks! You are correct, I had TCR and PID conflated. TCR and TFR are the two methods of getting the temperature from the coil. TCR is a linear plot from a baseline whereas TFR is a plotted curve that you input. PID is the regulator algorithm that turns on and off the coil at a given wattage.

R = Range.. this is the % of the target temp that you wish to reach that turns on PID regulation. I would just leave this at 0% so PI regulation is always on. P is how much power you want to ramp up in Mw/C per degree C and I = mw/C/seconds is the power per degree over time. A high P value will put in a lot of power. The I value is how fast you want to get there. These can be tweaked to get a favorable ramp...

image.png


In order for the PI regulator to work, it has to have a good TCR or TFR reading. It seems to me that TFR is more intuitive than TCR. TCR is a value that is used by multiplying the base resistance by that TCR.

Whereas with TFR, we can create our own curve. I assume the 1.0 factor is the base resistance and as it increase with heat, it uses the TFR table to get the temperature. I don't have a temp gun, but it seems to me I could take the temp while simultaneously recording the resistance. This might be hard to do though.
image.png
 
analytika

analytika

Well-Known Member
Finally picked up a squid industries double barrel (v3), the wattage only mod with a potentiometer. My lost vape paranormal is best I think paired with the splinter standard. My double barrel, the Z. The DNA 250C replay mode with the splinter achieves quick medication in two or three puffs. Ok even one. The double barrel with dial in wattage +the Z is the first full convection vaporizer I've used that let's you conveniently slow roll your way up the temperature scale, reminiscent of sessions with the mighty only ... better! Yes better. Love LOVE the dial.
 
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sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
I mentioned in this thread and maybe even the regular Splinter thread too.

I realized the uneven AVB I was getting with the Splinters was due to my raising the "boost levels" to get good vapor quickly.

The solution I found was to lower the boost rate and to raise the resistance number. Now I get good vapor at 185C with no brown/black spots.
 
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