VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
Really? Lol alright man, I'm pretty experienced with this ball vape concept... but you seem to have your own theories so I'll just let you experiment instead of spoil the fun.

:peace:
Then you should be happy to contribute your own ideas instead of snark. :^) Have you ever had a bunch of marbles in a bowl? When you move the bowl around, the marbles bang against eacother and rattle around.
 

MothChewMoth

Gamer Extraordinaire
Then you should be happy to contribute your own ideas instead of snark. :^) Have you ever had a bunch of marbles in a bowl? When you move the bowl around, the marbles bang against eacother and rattle around.
I think (by example of the G43) if you pack the balls well into the space, you get no discernible movement once they're set. It takes some jarring to knock them out of place, even with the occasional cleaning. I don't see why that would be much different here, but happy to report my test with rubies when they arrive. Cheers!

Edit*
If you're well packed I don't see how the balls could be knocked out of place under normal use. If you're moving the unit and flipping it around (hopefully not while hot) I can see how you might get some movement if not well packed.
 
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howie105

Well-Known Member
It might be worth looking through a few lab supply sites for glass balls, when I was doing the lab monkey thing we used various sizes of borosilicate glass balls.
 

VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
I think (by example of the G43) if you pack the balls well into the space, you get no discernible movement once they're set. It takes some jarring to knock them out of place, even with the occasional cleaning. I don't see why that would be much different here, but happy to report my test with rubies when they arrive. Cheers!

Edit*
If you're well packed I don't see how the balls could be knocked out of place under normal use. If you're moving the unit and flipping it around (hopefully not while hot) I can see how you might get some movement if not well packed.

I have a stand where I set my vape stuff and I'm always bumping shit, which is why I try not to keep tall waterpipes around. I can see what you're saying though, with regards to setting. Even if, for the most part, the balls aren't moving, I'm still a little queasy to use rubies over boro or quartz given the jump in hardness . Thank you for actually discussing this with me.

It might be worth looking through a few lab supply sites for glass balls, when I was doing the lab monkey thing we used various sizes of borosilicate glass balls.

Mo-sci seems to be a lab supply company, so you're on the money!
 

Vapor Mainline

Vapor (Ent)husiast
So my ssv came before my balls and spherical glass, and upon first inspection, it seems I have the older metal sleeve style heater stand, not the newer spring loaded one with the clip(s). Will the ssv43 modification work without the keck clip setup troy has in his video? Will the spherical ground glass even work with this type of heater stand or should I send it in for an upgrade?
 
Vapor Mainline,

ohmygodimsohigh

Well-Known Member
I have a stand where I set my vape stuff and I'm always bumping shit, which is why I try not to keep tall waterpipes around. I can see what you're saying though, with regards to setting. Even if, for the most part, the balls aren't moving, I'm still a little queasy to use rubies over boro or quartz given the jump in hardness . Thank you for actually discussing this with me.



Mo-sci seems to be a lab supply company, so you're on the money!

You don't want ball movement. The balls need to be packed in there tight so they're in contact with eachother as well as the heating rod. It's like a mesh-network of thermal mass.
Ball movement significantly reduces the vape's effectiveness.
Keep your balls packed around the rod and you'll be fine with boro.
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
glass-balls.jpg


:peace:
 
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VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
You don't want ball movement. The balls need to be packed in there tight so they're in contact with eachother as well as the heating rod. It's like a mesh-network of thermal mass.
Ball movement significantly reduces the vape's effectiveness.
Keep your balls packed around the rod and you'll be fine with boro.
TYVM, any other tips for the SSV43? I'll be getting the quartz first
 
VapePerson,
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The Chemist

New member but long time lurker
I finally pulled the trigger and ordered some 3mm boro beads, I'll start with these and change to something else if I need to. I'm concerned about glass dust but I think the risk is very low. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but the way I see it you have a couple of place where that dust could get trapped when you vape. First there's the weed itself that could act as a filter and catch a bit of the dust that pass thru it. If you use a whip the dust could settle inside even more so if the inside of the whip is a little sticky with the reclaim that accumulate. Finally if you use a water pipe the dust would simply stay in the water. There's the quantity of dust that can be a factor, I don't think the dust created by the movement of the beads will create a lot of dust immediately. If there's dust it will be after a long period of time and lots of movement. Compare this with a quartz bead that explode into dust, the quantity of dust released at the same time is not the same at all and the risk that some of it reach your lungs are a lot more serious. I know that with boro I don't have to worry as much about the dust so that's why I went with it, there's always the risk of them sticking to each other if the stuff I got is not real boro but it should be alright.

I'm curious about what happens when the glass stick to the rod, does it break anything in the vape or is it just a pain to remove?
 

yourtokingbuddy

Well-Known Member
Just to clarify what was said about hardnesses by @VapePerson in a single post, because I was thinking about this just the other day so I've enjoyed geeking out on it and want to share.

> Stainless steel is a 5 on hardness. It can't scratch quartz and once it's in place it's not an issue. The issue is that the balls will be constantly moving and, if they're harder than their container, will put microscratches into the harder surface and that you will be breathing in dust repeatedly.

We know the mohs scale of mineral hardness values for the 3 pieces

The ceramic cylinder is somewhere in a 5, 6, or 7 range, made of alumina ceramica and is as hard as sapphire meaning the rest of this isn't as applicable, but I'm leaving it otherwise.

The quartz is a 7 (see the first scale), and the glass heater cover is made of scientific glass ("Glass Style: Scientific"), so it's between a 6 and 7.5 on the hardness scale. Assuming that everything is ideal (7/7/7 scale ratings of all three) we will never see any scratches on anything. Minimal scratching of the heater cover and balls could occur if balls aren't packed tightly enough and whirr around the cylinder.

Once we start introducing things like rubies and other materials that have tougher hardness, then any of the materials in there could get scratched. This is especially true if the balls are whirring around because they're light enough to be lifted into the air from a draw. It's not just about heat retention but that mohs hardness of the materials in use.

By choosing quartz over glass, you're introducing the ability for a stronger heat soak but also potentially getting micro-scratches which turn to dust, again - if the balls are whirring. Like @ohmygodimsohigh said though, they ideally should not be as you want as much thermal soak as you can get , that is until more balls means the ones at the top are stealing heat from your air, not adding to it.

Hope this helps someone! And please correct me if I'm incorrect on anything. I'd rather learn than spread false info unknowingly. 😃
 
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arb

Semi shaved ape
What is the negative health impact of inhaling that particular particulate in those quantities?
That seems to be the question.
Also if you take two items of equal hardness and rub'em together they both wear away equally.
They don't cancel out basic physical abrasion when equal it just balances it out.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
1. The beads don't move
2. there is no abrasive grinding
3. any "glass dust" occuring is from exploding, shattered beads unfit for this application
4. stainless steel can certainly scratch glass.
5. your inhale speed is not turning your vape into a bead blaster
6. the heater is alumina ceramic. its as hard as sapphire.
 

yourtokingbuddy

Well-Known Member
They don't cancel out basic physical abrasion when equal it just balances it out.

You're right, that's the one thing I was iffy on. The takeaway is definitely that as long as the beads are packed in tightly you're good, like @invertedisdead and @ohmygodimsohigh said. Also thanks for the info about alumina ceramic. I couldn't find that when I was looking. Appreciate it!

5. your inhale speed is not turning your vape into a bead blaster
But it is turning it into a heat blaster 😎 👉 👉

On a different note, anyone else using Storz and Bickel (S+B) dosing capsules in their wands? This is a great way to prepack and spend less time emptying and reloading inbetween. I think a magazine of 8 holds .8 to 1.2g of herb, so a great microdosing application as well. Just don't dump a hot capsule in your hand. I haven't done this yet but I'm sure my days are numbered.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
You're right, that's the one thing I was iffy on. The takeaway is definitely that as long as the beads are packed in tightly you're good, like @invertedisdead and @ohmygodimsohigh said. Also thanks for the info about alumina ceramic. I couldn't find that when I was looking. Appreciate it!


But it is turning it into a heat blaster 😎 👉 👉

On a different note, anyone else using Storz and Bickel (S+B) dosing capsules in their wands? This is a great way to prepack and spend less time emptying and reloading inbetween. I think a magazine of 8 holds .8 to 1.2g of herb, so a great microdosing application as well. Just don't dump a hot capsule in your hand. I haven't done this yet but I'm sure my days are numbered.
Can I see a pic of your capsule in a wand please?
I cannot seem to finger that one out......getting the capsule to fit.
🤔
 

yourtokingbuddy

Well-Known Member
Sure! It just fits down in there. I've got the ground glass though and I hear that's got more of a wide opening, so maybe that's part of the difference. 20200810_014050.jpg
 
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yourtokingbuddy,
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zor

Well-Known Member
Man, my last post here about the SSV was in 2016?? For shame!

I performed the glass ball mod on my SSV, I have the ground glass adapter for the heating element, and it is outstanding! One of the issues I found over time with my SSV was that I couldn't get the best flavor, but somehow with this mod I feel it has been reborn as a new beast. Definitely need to hook it up to a waterpiece because the vapor is a little harsher than I'd like, but for deep effective medicating I think I have found a new joy in this guy!
 

VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
Just got the ssv and modified a storebought screen to act as the bucket until those get here. But, I did add the balls and massage in a top screen. It absolutely destroys you, and the vapor is incredibly harsh even through a bong, but I'm having trouble getting thick hits, even with a packed bong through a bowl. I had to take several medium hits, although in much more rapid succession than any other vape I've used. The mighty can't compete with this. The vapour (and it WILL be vapour) will wreck you like combustion.

I started with a slow draw and then RIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIP. At 11:00 I was able deep brown but not mahogany like Troy. It was allowed to heatsoak. I stirred. I made sure the rod is pulled quite high and packed with beads. Any help?

Edit: Keeping the side of your mouth open while taking a hit helps bring more oxygen in and allow you to take more in but it's still not as dense as I like, having moved the heater up and pulled out some balls like troy did.

Edit 2: It just molested me and now it feels like god is fingerfucking my soul. Great vape. Pull harder, the draw is still amazingly open.
Being able to sip like before is nice, but that was insane, and what I've been wanting in every vape from the start.
 
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Skeemo

Member
Hey guys not sure if this has been done before but I made a post over on Reddit about using a 14-18mm adapter to hold my s&b dosing capsule. I find I get a nice even chocolate brown avb with minimal technique or effort. I just turned the heat down about 1.5hours and no need for glass balls as the capsule sits closer to the heating element. Sorry I'm not sure how to post pictures on here but here is the link for my Reddit thread. Thanks for reading!

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/icp3hu
 
Skeemo,

VapePerson

Searching for Tremendous
I just turned the heat down about 1.5hours and no need for glass balls as the capsule sits closer to the heating element.
Incorrect.

Also, I have to keep turning and flipping the damn thing, like I thought I would, and while my balls are packed tight initally,1 still wiggles loose every couple days. I thoroughly enjoy the knob, but why is it on the backfront?
 
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