Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless
- Thread starter darkrom
- Start date
killick
But I like it!
@ginolicious I've been cutting parchment into rough squares, folding those in half, and then folding one side shut. Kinda like the old paper hats we wore. Using the tip of a flea market butter knife (1/2 teaspoon or less-ish) I scoop a glob into the corner, then even the load out a little, and then set that on the plates so the kief is on the metal, but the rest of the parchment is outside. Drop the plates into the paper, wait for a little sizzle, and then press like a mofo and watch the goo run.
I'm not doing any measuring at this point. I'm working on technique first, and the good ole Mk. 1.0 Eyeball is working fine so far
I'm not doing any measuring at this point. I'm working on technique first, and the good ole Mk. 1.0 Eyeball is working fine so far
The Beagle
Bubbles & Bags
Hi everyone, just a couple of quick questions as harvesting time is ckose: should I cure my trim as I do with the nugs before pressing or can I press it as soon as it is dry? Should I dry the trim to the same moisture content of the nugs or is better to have it dryer?
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
+-65procent should be good to go,
friends have started pressing after one week of drying and have found they get better results when doing this over letting it dry and cure the same as the buds. Seems like the moisture content is the most important factor to determine yield???
In my experience upgrading to a stronger press and/or more equal and stable form of heating does not change output that much. The proper humidity of the material being used makes a huge difference
just my two cents
friends have started pressing after one week of drying and have found they get better results when doing this over letting it dry and cure the same as the buds. Seems like the moisture content is the most important factor to determine yield???
In my experience upgrading to a stronger press and/or more equal and stable form of heating does not change output that much. The proper humidity of the material being used makes a huge difference
just my two cents
ginolicious
Well-Known Member
Real upset here guys. Hoping you can help me. I just wasted a nice 1-2G of kief.
I went to rosin press it with a hair straightener. Very minimal amount of rosin came out. What happened is my kief actually got squished together in like almost hash like substance. Worst part is that the tea bag I had the kief in that went in the parchment paper completely dissolved.
I also did this at about 200F. Was that too hot?
Updated:
Oh I did it guys. I finally did a good press. Pretty high. But it didn't harvest a lot since it was the last little bit of kief I had.
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I went to rosin press it with a hair straightener. Very minimal amount of rosin came out. What happened is my kief actually got squished together in like almost hash like substance. Worst part is that the tea bag I had the kief in that went in the parchment paper completely dissolved.
I also did this at about 200F. Was that too hot?
Updated:
Oh I did it guys. I finally did a good press. Pretty high. But it didn't harvest a lot since it was the last little bit of kief I had.
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ginolicious
Well-Known Member
I found if I didn't use a filter for kief it goes everywhere. With the tea bag it keeps it all together.
ginolicious
Well-Known Member
Maybe add one more fold to one edge of your paper, making a triangle corner for the kief to sit in, and has nowhere else to go. Put kief in corner and squish, and resin should run every other direction.
Slickwrap arrived today! No more parchment
That's interesting. Maybe I'll try once I have more kief lol. I wasted so much on the first run.
Preferredduck
New Member
What size slick pad are you using? I tried the first tI'm last night with 3 grams of grape ape and gorilla glue. The parchment smeared my best glue run. Turns out I bought a conair iron atgoodwill that's on the good list. My brother let me borrow a 125lb trigger clamp, I was looking at a 300 to 600 trigger. I have trouble finding indie where I am so this can work for me. I used a garlic press to flatten and found about .2 pressed good. Is the 600lbs over kill? I don't want to waste a bunch esp since I use this for pain management and my state isn't the friendliest, so I have nobody to consult with and it gets costly.
Thanks
Maybe add one more fold to one edge of your paper, making a triangle corner for the kief to sit in, and has nowhere else to go. Put kief in corner
and squish, and resin should run every other direction.
Slickwrap arrived today! No more parchment
The slickwrap you got, was it the foil backed? I have a roll of that and wasn't sure so I used mostly parchment. A ton got stuck and smeared on it but the oil slick stuff came off good. I don't want to make it toxic using a certain thing wit heat. I can get the ptfe paper but I'm getting more gorilla glue to press before then and I'm out of indie.
I can vouch for the Conair Infiniti 2inch; the thing takes a BEATING. I slam my entire weight on top of it and it stays perfectly flat. I can't say the same about the default remington that has been posted here a bunch...I broke its electronics/chip on my literal 2nd press, the thing has a wonky random mind of its own now and constantly fluctuates between heat settings lol
But yeah, the conair is great... it doesn't give as precise or large a range of temp settings as the remington, but I don't really mind because its default setting (leaving it on green and not selecting a higher level) gets around 310-315 when I checked it with an IR thermometer, which is looking to be a nice temp.
I have an older con air cs19v, 2 inch plates. I have the foil backed oil slick wrap, really slick reynolds parchment, or I can order the oil slick ptfe. I have a small oil slick pad, I guess a bigger one would work too. I probably wasted .2 of gorilla glue as it was my first press. I have access to a vice grip, c clamps, and I can get a 300 lb or 600lbs trigger clamp tomorrow if needed. The 125lb trigger clamp worked, but I feel the x large pad and more pressure with work.
Any advice anyone wants to give is awesome. I love this site and have learned so much. I am a pain patent and this is how I will have to get indie sometimes. I do make it into a potent e juice because of where I live.
I found 2 at goodwill the other day, I'm planning on taking one apart. Turns out they had the con air cs19v which is one of the better ones for rosin. Both had temp control and under $5. Og course cheap parchment had me waste some but I he the foil backed oil slick stuff now. A flat iron, parchment paper, and a 125lb trigger clamp was all that was needed for the first try.mWhat kind of control do these have? I like the leverage handle. That means it is MADE to push flat with some decent pressure. This looks like a winner to me. Maybe I can control the temp with my BBQ Guru.
I went to BB&B today looking for a hair iron. There were none.Curling irons of every variety. Blow dryers, every other type of hair gizmo. NO straightening irons. Then went looking at sandwich presses.
I saw one promising unit with flat plates that pivot and meet flat to each other. Only problem, 3 temp settings. No idea of temp.
Vacuum seal? I have one of those old rainbow vacuums thay shrinks couch cushions. I wonder if that would work here???I have a vacuum pump for marshmallow deflation
If I didn't have older friends at 17 I would Ave never seen real hash.
Real upset here guys. Hoping you can help me. I just wasted a nice 1-2G of kief.
I went to rosin press it with a hair straightener. Very minimal amount of rosin came out. What happened is my kief actually got squished together in like almost hash like substance. Worst part is that the tea bag I had the kief in that went in the parchment paper completely dissolved.
I also did this at about 200F. Was that too hot?
Updated:
Oh I did it guys. I finally did a good press. Pretty high. But it didn't harvest a lot since it was the last little bit of kief I had.
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I ordered some stainless steel 25 micron screens for keif to press, since many fiends keep theirs. One friend wants to borrow my space case. I get a cuT since the case is mine and he needs my s reens. Lol. The stainless screens should not dissolve and a more solid piece of bho etc can get of off by rolling it on top of it, put the screen on an ice pack or you will get a mess. My first batch was almost wasted until I grabbed a little stable cinnex to roll it all on with. The cartidge I made from it is unique for sure.
Mod note - 7 posts merged
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So I'm starting into making somerosin in the coming days. I've made plenty of solvent extracts, and this is my 1st go at solventless. I have access to an actual rosin press. Was wondering where to start really? What's a good Temp to begin with? Pressure? Time? Should I think happy thoughts while pressing?
Also have access to a cls (terpinator). Wondering if someone who can, could compare some of the most top shelf cleanest and best tasting bho to rosin made in the best way? Is one way ahead of the other in terms of flavor? Effect? Sventless is very new to me, and I have to say I'm quite intrigued. Any help is appreciated! Thx.
Also have access to a cls (terpinator). Wondering if someone who can, could compare some of the most top shelf cleanest and best tasting bho to rosin made in the best way? Is one way ahead of the other in terms of flavor? Effect? Sventless is very new to me, and I have to say I'm quite intrigued. Any help is appreciated! Thx.
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shredder
Well-Known Member
I've never had a bad rosin experience. But I've had bad BHO/budder/wax/shatter. But I personally don't make butane extracts and I do make rosin.
Imho properly made extracts are all good. But unless the maker is skilled, the results will vary widely.
But rosin is fairly uncomplicated, and safer/easier for most of us who DIY.
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what's up everybody! long time lurker, first time poster, and long time bud connoisseur. my name is dan, and im from nor cal. long story short, I had about a lb of good sticky stuff land in my lap from a friend, and started looking into making errl, oil, hash, what ever you wanna call it. so i went to the old trusty android phone and thats when I came across rso, so I tried my hand at that. man does it taste like SHIT! So back to the Internet I went, and that is when i found ROSIN! What a great way to make yer own oil! i ran out and bought a hair straightener and started experimenting. ive been able to yield 20 percent or so with 1g presses. 310 degree f for around 30-40 seconds, in a vice hard enough to work, not hard enough to break shit yet.. I'm pressing blue dream and queen something (can't remember, damn stoner).
here's the part that gets weird... so bare with me. there will be a question at the end. another long story short, my bud has had the possibility of being exposed to mold. for ease of mind I won't get into details. I've never seen mold on the said bud, but I notice when I vape the rosin it has a nasty smell, after I open the chamber to refill my bowl. is it just me? my bud? vape pen is brand new with brand new coil. it'd a yocan evolve plus qdc. any help is appreciated and sorry for the long winded post
here's the part that gets weird... so bare with me. there will be a question at the end. another long story short, my bud has had the possibility of being exposed to mold. for ease of mind I won't get into details. I've never seen mold on the said bud, but I notice when I vape the rosin it has a nasty smell, after I open the chamber to refill my bowl. is it just me? my bud? vape pen is brand new with brand new coil. it'd a yocan evolve plus qdc. any help is appreciated and sorry for the long winded post
shredder
Well-Known Member
I would go back and look at the herb you havnt pressed yet. Use a scope or magnifying glass.
Google molds to get an accurate idea of what they look like.
And if it doesn't taste right, and, or if you see mold, don't use it. Some of the nastiest molds are very hard to kill. Pressing won't do it.
As hard as it is, sometimes we have to sacrifice. Such is life
tepictoton
Well-Known Member
You sure there is no particles in your rosin? In other words, are you using a filter?
If not, and particles are in your rosin they will burn on the coil and might explain the smell....
If not, and particles are in your rosin they will burn on the coil and might explain the smell....
thanks for the responses fellas. as far as the bud I haven't used, it seems to be ok. it smokes fine, and does the job. I've seen buds with mold so I have an idea of what to look for. and It doesn't appear to be moldy. I don't have a magnifying glass, so that is something I will look into (ha ha, even stoners can be funny) as for the taste, it doesn't taste bad. just a Lil earthy.
I'm pretty sure there are minute particles. I do my best to pick out what I can, but I'm not 100 perfect (ok, actually my girlfriend thinks I am, however I digress). I'm using only parchment paper. no filter/screen. I figured it's probably just the particles.
I know you guys aren't here to see/smell everything and it's hard to diagnose something like this. however i do appreciate the help.
I'm pretty sure there are minute particles. I do my best to pick out what I can, but I'm not 100 perfect (ok, actually my girlfriend thinks I am, however I digress). I'm using only parchment paper. no filter/screen. I figured it's probably just the particles.
I know you guys aren't here to see/smell everything and it's hard to diagnose something like this. however i do appreciate the help.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
You guys the rosin in question is likely to taste bad because it has been excessively heated. 310f is too high temp. Do not exceed 240-250f and IME 220-230 are best 
Also if you press moldy material, you will get black/dark brown rosin. It will be nasty. Open up your biggest nugs and take them apart, looking inside the central calyxes. If you do not see mold, then the material is not yet badly effected - this does not mean that no spores are present though and spores can be considered 'potential mold' (this is why material that was even near mold needs to be stored perfectly and ideally, used quickly). If the stems have started to grey/white out with fine white hairs (these look very distinct in high magnification from trichome stalks), this is the beginning of botrytis (gray mold/bud rot) - this is still no problem to use, but you will need to store your flower very carefully in dry conditions to avoid further mold growth.
Also if you press moldy material, you will get black/dark brown rosin. It will be nasty. Open up your biggest nugs and take them apart, looking inside the central calyxes. If you do not see mold, then the material is not yet badly effected - this does not mean that no spores are present though and spores can be considered 'potential mold' (this is why material that was even near mold needs to be stored perfectly and ideally, used quickly). If the stems have started to grey/white out with fine white hairs (these look very distinct in high magnification from trichome stalks), this is the beginning of botrytis (gray mold/bud rot) - this is still no problem to use, but you will need to store your flower very carefully in dry conditions to avoid further mold growth.
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I s
I seem to think the same thing. I've experimented in several stages. ultimately I'm going to buy an arbor press with some pid controlled plates. I've tried pressing at 310 for around 30-40 seconds at first, but I decided to try 10-15 seconds this last go around. I can't tell a difference between the two different sessions. however the shorter press isn't as dark (to be expected). back to my question, the stems look fine, I think it's just plant material in the rosin. I don't think the bud is moldy, and never have. like I said it had the "potential" to become affected. I'll say this though, rosin is great. so convenient, so quick! I can't complain either way, we'll ok, yeah I can, just need more bud! to clarify, its not the taste of the hit, but the smell of the bowl when j open it to refill.
You guys the rosin in question is likely to taste bad because it has been excessively heated. 310f is too high temp. Do not exceed 240-250f and IME 220-230 are best
Also if you press moldy material, you will get black/dark brown rosin. It will be nasty. Open up your biggest nugs and take them apart, looking inside the central calyxes. If you do not see mold, then the material is not yet badly effected - this does not mean that no spores are present though and spores can be considered 'potential mold' (this is why material that was even near mold needs to be stored perfectly and ideally, used quickly). If the stems have started to grey/white out with fine white hairs (these look very distinct in high magnification from trichome stalks), this is the beginning of botrytis (gray mold/bud rot) - this is still no problem to use, but you will need to store your flower very carefully in dry conditions to avoid further mold growth.
I seem to think the same thing. I've experimented in several stages. ultimately I'm going to buy an arbor press with some pid controlled plates. I've tried pressing at 310 for around 30-40 seconds at first, but I decided to try 10-15 seconds this last go around. I can't tell a difference between the two different sessions. however the shorter press isn't as dark (to be expected). back to my question, the stems look fine, I think it's just plant material in the rosin. I don't think the bud is moldy, and never have. like I said it had the "potential" to become affected. I'll say this though, rosin is great. so convenient, so quick! I can't complain either way, we'll ok, yeah I can, just need more bud! to clarify, its not the taste of the hit, but the smell of the bowl when j open it to refill.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Oh wait are you using a pen man? Pens taste like shit towards the end of the bowl with rosin IME.
I am using a yocan evolve plus. I notice it tastes like shit, but to me only when it's almost dead. not the first several hits. it SMELLS weird when I open the bowl after its been hit.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I would definitely try lower temp squishing first before anything. It seems like you're causing too much thermal degradation in the press so that by the time you've done a hit or two, things are overcooking too quickly?
You might consider trying the ceramic atomizer instead of the coils.
I'm assuming you mean the ceramic donut? that's the next plan, just seem to be a hot commodity these days. almost everywhere they are sold out... I did find one place though, just strapped for cash. American dream baby!
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
That definitely chimes with my experience of pens (tasting like shit at the end of the bowl). Sadly, this is true of the all-ceramic atomizers too IME (w9tech donuts, puffco+ both do this in my experience - haven't tried others yet), the difference is that the start of the bowl tastes better on the all ceramic atomizers and the Puffco+ (also most of the other all ceramic atomizers) doesn't have issues with non-heated areas where unvaped oil can pool and build up which is also a PITA
The reason for all-ceramic carts giving bad tasting later hits without temp control is because ceramic takes a long time to both heat up and cool down. This makes it very hard to maintain adequate temperatures in the vaporization surface without a high probability of over/undershooting the ideal temp for a good part of the heat cycle.
A Temperature control (TC) mod ecig battery used with an all ceramic cart will mitigate this problem to some extent as it aims for a target temp rather than just firing the heater at the chosen voltage/resistance/wattage while you hold the button.
Another problem remains even with a TC mod, however (and I must highlight that my bro @2clicker has also pointed this issue out before myself around these parts!): Too much oil vs not enough heated surface area will lead to partial heating/slow vaporization of the part of your load furthest from the heated surface (ie: the upper portion of your load as it melts) which will lead to bad tastes later in the bowl as this portion of the load has been heated too much for too long before vaporizing to taste the same. The heated part of most all-ceramic atomizers IME is simply too small to vaporize a moderate (say .05-.075g) to large dab (.1g or more) quickly or efficiently.
This is not such a problem for small dabs (keep it below .05g) but for moderate-large dabs, can lead to great taste on the early hits, followed by pooling and then worse taste when the partially heated, pooled oil finally reaches its boiling point and creates more vapor.
If you keep all of the above in mind and load .025-.05g at the very most on a temperature controlled all-ceramic cart, you should get better results.
BTW, I never use pens unless I am in a situation where nothing else can possibly be used (such as times when a torch + nail or e-nail setup with a rig would attract unwanted attention etc). Pens IMO are not good daily drivers for frequent/moderate-high dose usage of high quality (ie: tasty) concentrates. If you do not need to use a pen for stealth reasons or require frequent, quicker or larger doses, then I suggest looking at an e-nail/torch + nail which will serve you infinitely better.
To begin with though, you need to drop that rosin temp by nearly 100f and perhaps try and reduce the amount you are loading into your current atomizer at a time. Then we can return to further measures to try and improve your concentrate vaping experience if you're still not satisfied
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nosmoking
Just so Dab HAppy!
I am not sure I agree on the concensus of temp for Rosin. I get good results with 310 degrees and low pressure. I know its not what has been tried and true here for many but I can't deny actual experience and my experience is that I can get great results with a hair straightener at 310 in a standard benchtop vice. My rosin is tasty and amazing in effect.That definitely chimes with my experience of pens (tasting like shit at the end of the bowl). Sadly, this is true of the all-ceramic atomizers too IME (w9tech donuts, puffco+ both do this in my experience - haven't tried others yet), the difference is that the start of the bowl tastes better on the all ceramic atomizers and the Puffco+ (also most of the other all ceramic atomizers) doesn't have issues with non-heated areas where unvaped oil can pool and build up which is also a PITA
The reason for all-ceramic carts giving bad tasting later hits without temp control is because ceramic takes a long time to both heat up and cool down. This makes it very hard to maintain adequate temperatures in the vaporization surface without a high probability of over/undershooting the ideal temp for a good part of the heat cycle.
A Temperature control (TC) mod ecig battery used with an all ceramic cart will mitigate this problem to some extent as it aims for a target temp rather than just firing the heater at the chosen voltage/resistance/wattage while you hold the button.
Another problem remains even with a TC mod, however: Too much oil vs not enough heated surface area will lead to partial heating/slow vaporization of the part of your load furthest from the heated surface (ie: the upper portion of your load as it melts) which will lead to bad tastes later in the bowl as this portion of the load has been heated too much for too long before vaporizing to taste the same. The heated part of most all-ceramic atomizers IME is simply too small to vaporize a moderate (say .05-.075g) to large dab (.1g or more) quickly or efficiently.
This is not such a problem for small dabs (keep it below .05g) but for moderate-large dabs, can lead to great taste on the early hits, followed by pooling and then worse taste when the partially heated, pooled oil finally reaches its boiling point and creates more vapor.
If you keep all of the above in mind and load .025-.05g at the very most on a temperature controlled all-ceramic cart, you should get better results.
BTW, I never use pens unless I am in a situation where nothing else can possibly be used (such as times when a torch + nail or e-nail setup with a rig would attract unwanted attention etc). Pens IMO are not good daily drivers for frequent/moderate-high dose usage of high quality (ie: tasty) concentrates. If you do not need to use a pen for stealth reasons or require frequent, quicker or larger doses, then I suggest looking at an e-nail/torch + nail which will serve you infinitely better.
To begin with though, you need to drop that rosin temp by nearly 100f and perhaps try and reduce the amount you are loading into your current atomizer at a time. Then we can return to further measures to try and improve your concentrate vaping experience if you're still not satisfied
Perhaps it comes down to the material your using. I find fluffy soft buds to give little to no yield, however dense buds will keep squirting rosin out for 45-60 seconds sometimes. I had some Sour Tangie flower a month ago and it was better than the Pure Extracts Crumble Tangie that I scooped up from a disp the other day. Taste and effect were on par no doubt so I guess I am making 310 work!