Rosin Technique....Easy DIY Solventless

[herbivore21]

I am not sure I agree on the concensus of temp for Rosin. I get good results with 310 degrees and low pressure. I know its not what has been tried and true here for many but I can't deny actual experience and my experience is that I can get great results with a hair straightener at 310 in a standard benchtop vice. My rosin is tasty and amazing in effect.

Perhaps it comes down to the material your using. I find fluffy soft buds to give little to no yield, however dense buds will keep squirting rosin out for 45-60 seconds sometimes. I had some Sour Tangie flower a month ago and it was better than the Pure Extracts Crumble Tangie that I scooped up from a disp the other day. Taste and effect were on par no doubt so I guess I am making 310 work!

I'm not saying that good rosin is impossible to achieve at those temps with any kind of starting material.

All I am saying is that uniformly in my experience the yields are worse and flavor are both worse at these temps than if you bring it down a lot lower as I suggest above. I have replicated this finding with every variety I've ever encountered as well as with cured, dried and more fresh material for over a year now with no exceptions. Ideal temps for pressing did vary somewhat between different samples, but not ever beyond 250f.

I should highlight that the temps I am quoting are as measured from a calibrated lab stem thermometer directly between the plates (the kind of thermometer that costs more than the rosin plates! lol). To clarify, I am not talking about PID numbers or nominal temp figures on the dial of a straight iron (which IME are often not even remotely accurate measures of the actual temp on the surface).

If the temp you are referring to is as read from the digital controller you are using on an e-nail coil style heater, or off the dial of a straight iron, or off a digital soldering iron controllers or anything else that doesn't directly measure the temp at the pressing surface, then we aren't talking about the same thing

 

[nosmoking]

I'm not saying that good rosin is impossible to achieve at those temps with any kind of starting material.

All I am saying is that uniformly in my experience the yields are worse and flavor are both worse at these temps than if you bring it down a lot lower as I suggest above. I have replicated this finding with every variety I've ever encountered as well as with cured, dried and more fresh material for over a year now with no exceptions. Ideal temps for pressing did vary somewhat between different samples, but not ever beyond 250f.

I should highlight that the temps I am quoting are as measured from a calibrated lab stem thermometer directly between the plates (the kind of thermometer that costs more than the rosin plates! lol). To clarify, I am not talking about PID numbers or nominal temp figures on the dial of a straight iron (which IME are often not even remotely accurate measures of the actual temp on the surface).

If the temp you are referring to is as read from the digital controller you are using on an e-nail coil style heater, or off the dial of a straight iron, or off a digital soldering iron controllers or anything else that doesn't directly measure the temp at the pressing surface, then we aren't talking about the same thing

I am only talking about dial temps so I agree my readings could be far from the actual heat on the plates. I also pad the plates with an extra sheet of parchment but I do get great results.

 

[herbivore21]

I am only talking about dial temps so I agree my readings could be far from the actual heat on the plates. I also pad the plates with an extra sheet of parchment but I do get great results.

Oh I'm sure this is the difference we're noticing brother, your temp at the plates could well be within the range I describe and padding out the parchment might also reduce the heat getting through some as you say

 

[Hogni]

I dont believe that 310°F doesnt have any effects to profile of cannabinoids, flavoids and terpenes.

Do you know this researches of John M. McPartland and Ethan B. Russo?
Look at pp 111 f.

310° are above or near at boiling temperature of different cannabinoids, flavoids and terpenes.
So they will suffer at this temp.
You may have a good yield at this temp but probably a lack of taste and effects.
May be at lower temperatures you would get better results?

Just said aside of the open question regard to your correct measure of temperature.

 

[herbivore21]

I dont believe that 310°F doesnt have any effects to profile of cannabinoids, flavoids and terpenes.

Do you know this researches of John M. McPartland and Ethan B. Russo?
Look at pp 111 f.

310° are above or near at boiling temperature of different cannabinoids, flavoids and terpenes.
So they will suffer at this temp.
You may have a good yield at this temp but probably a lack of taste and effects.
May be at lower temperatures you would get better results at lower temperatures?

Just said aside of the open question regard to your correct measure of temperature.

I have experimented with very low temps (so low nothing comes out), all the way up to very high temps (visible vapor coming off of the flower, yikes!). IME, there are a number of temps you can use for different consistencies (quicker buddering tends to happen at lower temps, lower still and instabudder!). I find my rosin reliably budders regardless of the temp I use up to 250f with time, but that will vary by chemotype and a number of other variables I'm sure so YMMV.

310f measured at the plates IME definitely got some noticeable vapor when I tried it. That might vary more or less depending on the moisture in the nug, the length of the press and the pressure used. As above though, it seems more likely that @nosmoking is getting lower actual plate temps than is on the dial, given that their rosin is coming out very well from what they are saying. I also reliably got vapor at temps that high after less than 30-45 seconds!

The OP may be using temps that are closer to the 310f on the dial, and this would explain a bad taste coming too early after only a few hits.

 

[invertedisdead]

Some good points by herbivore which sums up well why I went with the divine tribe v3 atomizer. 13mm donut offers much more available surface area, and with my temp controlled mod I load single servings and vaporize the load in one draw to avoid taste degradation. I use 30 watts @ 370-450F to quickly come to temp and it works very well. No metallic taste like most pens with metal coils/housing/mouthpiece.

The stock battery and low surface area of those smaller atomizers like the Evolve limit their functionality, but I would still choose it any day over dual Quartz coils.

 

[matthend]

310 is the lowest setting on my trusty straightener that has been in service for > a year. I let it heat to 310, then turn it off while i get my parchment ready and presquish the nug. The times that I have had a stoner moment and forgotten to turn off the straightener have all resulted in gooier, less flavorful rosin. This is in no way saying that it was ruined and I threw it out, it just was harder to handle and didn't taste as good. Still knocked me on my ass though

 

[Bambu]

hello all,, I was wondering if anyone can answer my question..
when seeing the specs on rosin presses,, as far as psi..
have they considered the space of the pressing area in these values ,, or is further math needed by customer. .
for example. .
im eyeing 2 different presses:
1 says 5000psi but with plates sizes 2.37x4.75 (11.25)
5000÷11.25= 444.psi
or
10, 000psi÷22.56 (4.75x4.75)=865psi..

is my thinking correct?,,, or are the values they give (ex.5000psi), already account for plate size...and a 5000psi press actually gives 5000psi?
thanks in advance for help or thoughts.

 

[Caelar900]

hello all,, I was wondering if anyone can answer my question..
when seeing the specs on rosin presses,, as far as psi..
have they considered the space of the pressing area in these values ,, or is further math needed by customer. .
for example. .
im eyeing 2 different presses:
1 says 5000psi but with plates sizes 2.37x4.75 (11.25)
5000÷11.25= 444.psi
or
10, 000psi÷22.56 (4.75x4.75)=865psi..

is my thinking correct?,,, or are the values they give (ex.5000psi), already account for plate size...and a 5000psi press actually gives 5000psi?
thanks in advance for help or thoughts.

In short. No. You need to do the calculations for the PSI on your pressing area yourself. But there is also one factor here that you have forgot to include, it is unlikely that you will use the entire surface area of your plates, you will more than likely have a pre pressed form slightly smaller, and this is the surface area you need to account for when doing your calculations. But with all that said I personally think that either of the choices you've got there are going to be a little under powered, unless your are going to be pressing exclusively hash that is. I like to hit roughly 3000 psi with my flower presses, though many will say 2000 psi is enough you do not quite meet this range with either of the presses you have suggested. I would personally suggest you try to cop a 20 ton hydraulic press and fit some plates to it rather than buying anything premade... Unless you've got $2000+ to spend!

 

[Bambu]

@Caelar900 .
ok I understand about the clacs for psi..

as far as the press, , heres my situation ,
living in an apt in nyc , im trying to keep this set up as small as possible, so building a rig would probably end up bigger then I want isnt to appealing , also , I really have so much going on, they I dont really have the time
to give it the attention I would like,, dont get me wrong , I do enjoy such projects,,, fact is I have to many already! ! so purchasing one straight away, that doesn't look like it can lift a car would be ideal.
but back to the issue ,, low psi,,,
this weekend, cant believe I actually tried, im new to the rosin scene
,,,,I took a flat iron 2.2 g of juicy nug,, set it 260° and after much labor, small nugs at a time (prolly could have done a better job),, ended up with .3ishg rosin... so I combined it with .6ml of my vape mix,, loaded my pen (oil is my ultimate goal)
took 3 puffs, and within a few minutes,, zong!! I couldnt believe it,, I felt the zooted-ness creeping around my eyes, smiling with a nice flavor.
I know a 20 ton press is awesome,, but would one of the ones i mentioned enhance what im doing,,, or will I see little to no increase in my yield, ,?,, are u guys being super anal,,? dont get me wrong,, getting the most is the goal of course..
ive seen some of the machines on vids with lower psi give nice returns..im sure a 20 ton would give more of course,, but how much?
but I need to have a middle ground,,2k is about twice my budget..
so if you had 1k to spend on a rosin press,, with your experience, ,, what would you buy?
I need one. cant wait no more!! lol

 

[Caelar900]

I need one. cant wait no more!! lol

If you are going to be squishing buds than you really need at least 2000 psi, now if your okay with only squishing a g or two at a time than you can get away with a smaller 6 ton and some 3x3 plates. But if you ever think that you might be squishing a little bit more at a time a 20 ton and 3x5 is really the better option.

EDIT: And yes, the increase in pressure would probably almost double your yields.

 

[Bambu]

well thats kind of good news then...
I only plan on doing small amounts for my self, I would be more then happy with that. .
ive been looking on various threads ,, and for the price/per psi leads me to the 2 I mentioned above...
the 10k press is hydrolic
while the 5k press is pneumatic. .
and tho the 5k press has less power,, plates are smaller..which I do want..
but at the end of the day the math leads me to the 10k press...would you agree its the better of the 2?

also, thanks anyway,, your input is very valuable to me.

edit. my math was bad
1st press,,,5kpsi÷2.37x4.75=444psi
2nd press 10kpsi ÷ 4.75x4.75=443psi
so confused

 

[Caelar900]

Yeah.... The surface area on the plates that they are using is just a little to big for the amount of PSI that they are producing :/

 

[Bambu]

yea. I wish they wore a bit smaller. or a least easily changed

but wait..

. But there is also one factor here that you have forgot to include, it is unlikely that you will use the entire surface area of your plates, you will more than likely have a pre pressed form slightly smaller, and this is the surface area you need to account for when doing your calculations

are you saying I should only account for the size of flowers placed in machine and not area of plates?
for instance:
instead of
10kpsi÷(plate area)=xpsi
its
10kpsi÷(flower area)=×psi?

 

[PPN]

Hi, first true rosin attempt with a hair iron i bought.... it sizzles for around 40s... while I heard nothing more I stopped .... there was a very small amount (not enough for a dab) but it looks like the paper soaked some goodies and even there was a good amount on the plates (I didn't noticed it until I reheated the device for a second try..... that I didn't do for now).

I think my weed is not the most potent but it seems I don't use the good paper, this one is called "cooking paper usable on both sides", any idea for a better paper (I will search for links here when I'll get more time)?

 

[sickmanfraud]

Hi, first true rosin attempt with a hair iron i bought.... it sizzles for around 40s... while I heard nothing more I stopped .... there was a very small amount (not enough for a dab) but it looks like the paper soaked some goodies and even there was a good amount on the plates (I didn't noticed it until I reheated the device for a second try..... that I didn't do for now).

I think my weed is not the most potent but it seems I don't use the good paper, this one is called "cooking paper usable on both sides", any idea for a better paper (I will search for links here when I'll get more time)?

I have never tried this.

However, I have started to line the pans I use for decarb in something called "baking Paper" That is very non stick and my decarbed weed seems to almost slide off into the jars.

I have never used this "baking" paper in a wet application. I have heard it also referred to as "parchment" paper.

 

[Bambu]

Reynolds wrap parchment paper, unbleached preferably. .works fine...
I did 25 sec press ,260°,, not bad at all...

 

[Doktor Dub]

@PPN i think you are located in Europe, so the american standard parchment is harder to find.

You can try the Raw Parchment which you can find or order in many Headshops - a bit expensive but meant, tried and tested for Concentrates.
Another possibilitie is PTFE Paper, Slick Sheet and Waxy can be found easily in Europe.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

[PPN]

Is the Oil Slick Wrap Hydroguard good for rosin?

The answer is no, somebody told me the Oil Slick sheets are designed for rosin, not the Hydroguard.

 

[Caelar900]

Hi, first true rosin attempt with a hair iron i bought.... it sizzles for around 40s... while I heard nothing more I stopped .... there was a very small amount (not enough for a dab) but it looks like the paper soaked some goodies and even there was a good amount on the plates (I didn't noticed it until I reheated the device for a second try..... that I didn't do for now).

I think my weed is not the most potent but it seems I don't use the good paper, this one is called "cooking paper usable on both sides", any idea for a better paper (I will search for links here when I'll get more time)?

When I was using a hair iron I would press for no more than 5-10 seconds, It sounds like yours might be a little bit too hot as well and it is vaporizing your material right after squeezing it out

are you saying I should only account for the size of flowers placed in machine and not area of plates?
for instance:
instead of
10kpsi÷(plate area)=xpsi
its
10kpsi÷(flower area)=×psi?

Yes you are correct in you thinking, if you where to squish no more than 1-1.25 grams per squish the resulting area should low enough to fully extract that amount of material. One thing is that you really want to be squishing as close to the amount of area as your plates as possible so that the rosin can escape out into the cooler parchment paper and away from the plates as not to degrade the material due to heat.

EDIT: As for pressing paper goes, I firmly believe that we as a community should try to use PTFE paper as often as possible. I use oil slicks brand paper which is a bit expensive but generic can be found for less.

 

[Bambu]

@Caelar900 ...
I understand, ,, so even tho measuring the puck area vs plate area does increase my psi,( I intend to be squishing no more the 2g (tops) at a time),
yet I can understand what you mean about wanting the oil to get out from under those hot plates and off to the side,, definitely something to consider.
so its coming down to these 2 presses,
the 1st one is 10kpsi (then says 10 ton don't know why)
10kpsi.............+
big plates. ......-
dsnt need compressor. .....+
hydrolic. .........?* pneumatic vs hydrolic?
http://www.rosinpressny.com/View/Hydraulic-Rosin-Press.
press 2
smaller plates...........+
needs pump..............-
5kpsi..........................- compared to above..
pneumatic. ..............*? things being equal id prefer to tap a button
http://www.rosinpressny.com/View/Pneumatic-Rosin-Press
there within the same price range for the most part,, and are within my budget. ,, so. I ask,
(I know diy is cheaper)
which has better numbers for my purpose?
given the choice,, which would u buy, if it helps , yeah somebody has a gun to yer head!! lol
or are thet both crap,,, and a high5 do the same thing?
give it to me,, and please be a blunt as you can..
everyones thought are welcome..

 

[PPN]

After something like 10 tries I can say I'm disappointed with Rosin tech.... I know my weed is around 15% THC (from my yields of BHO extraction) and after squishing a bit more than 3g I was able to get only 2 microdabs and it was a PIA to reclaim since it was a so tiny yield.

Yes I know, my bud is not potent enough and this tech might work better with higher THC level... so I will give a try again... when I'll get better meds or good moroccan hash.

That's sure I'm still a newbie with this tech cause I need to confess I was able (1 time / 10 tries!) to get a better flow of goodies, so I must to work better about to get a consistent pressure and to find the better timing.
Somebody posted a 5-10 seconds timing... 5 seems to short for my weed.
I like how the room smell good while squishing but I'm afraid a lot of terpènes are lost during the process....

edit: Just vaped my "chips" and there is still a ton of goodies and still nice taste, I'm definitly doing something wrong, not enough pressure I bet....
re-edit: For info I used 140°C for my 3-4 first squish and lowered at 120°C for the rest....

 

[herbivore21]

After something like 10 tries I can say I'm disappointed with Rosin tech.... I know my weed is around 15% THC (from my yields of BHO extraction) and after squishing a bit more than 3g I was able to get only 2 microdabs and it was a PIA to reclaim since it was a so tiny yield.

Yes I know, my bud is not potent enough and this tech might work better with higher THC level... so I will give a try again... when I'll get better meds or good moroccan hash.

That's sure I'm still a newbie with this tech cause I need to confess I was able (1 time / 10 tries!) to get a better flow of goodies, so I must to work better about to get a consistent pressure and to find the better timing.
Somebody posted a 5-10 seconds timing... 5 seems to short for my weed. I like how the room smell good while squishing but I'm afraid a lot of terpènes are lost during the process....

Man the yield you get from BHO is not a measure of THC (actually what you'll find predominately is THCA, if you have a lot of decarbed THC in BHO, you used too much heat or some insane chamber pressure in the purge). IME THCA in BHO is found at the most to be in the higher end of the 80th percentile range. There will be 3-15% (the higher end is only being achieved by some bona fide extract artists and not stuff you'll make at home with a double boiler ) terps depending on many different factors and some small amounts of various minor cannabinoids. There are also unknown compounds in test results - this can be for various reasons.

Depending on the flow/contact with the solvent as well the temp, RH and local barometric pressure, you will pull more or less off of your flowers. Remember that all solvents, including butane will pull more than just actives out of your flowers given the opportunity if you don't tightly control all relevant variables.

The amount of BHO you get for these reasons is not necessarily indicative of how much rosin you will get. Solvents can pull along a lot of compounds that solventless techniques do not. IME and IMO, those compounds can stay put in the flower

Still, I'd be very surprised if your flowers were so bad that no resin would press out of them! We should consider some other possibilities first.

Are your flowers extremely dry? If so, this may be responsible. Try storing them for a few days or more with 62% humidity packs from Boveda in an airtight jar. I find it helps me get my flow right in dry herb situations

With this said, the nugs I usually squish will yield 15% by weight in the first press if they are so dry that they could be ground to powder by rubbing them between your fingers, using a 1t vice at 220-230f. The amount of resin on your flower will always be the main limit on your yields and the most caked nugs will squish in even the least ideal conditions. Mid grade and especially lower grade nugs will need to be stored, prepared and pressed more effectively or results may be disappointing.

If it is possible to show us a photo of your starting material, we might get a better idea of where to start macro is best if you can. Of course, if for privacy reasons you cannot post a picture, that is understood

Make sure your folding tek prevents your flower from moving at all outside of the heated plates during the press. The length of press time required to get best results will vary. Learn directional flow folding techniques and you'll know when the rosin is juicing because you can see it

A lot of info around on directional techniques. I will warn that some non-stick materials like parchment lend themselves more to certain methods of folding than others. Some of the directional folding techniques IME rely on having PTFE oil slick sheet and will horribly damage other kinds of parchments for example. I recommend asking others here for the techniques those guys like best

 

[PPN]

Thanks for your input!

Yes I know the yield from my bho runs doesn't relate directly to the THC content. Too much others stuffs are extracted too..

I'm afraid to break the hair dryer if used in a vice press....is human pressure enough habitually (I ask that cause I see people use clamps but maybe only for convenience...)?

My weed is not on the dry side although I will add a few Boveda pack before the next test.

Is compacting the weed before squishing somthing necessary with dense weed like mine?

It looks like the better amount for the hair dryer is around 0.3g from my short experience, I tried 0.6 with less success. Any inputs please?

Will give another try after work...

 

[PPN]

New to this thread. Been pressin rosin for over a month now after watching ganja josh youtube video american stoner rosin press 70 percent return. He used a small vice with a hair straightenern and so i did aswel. I have some pics i can share. I have had good success. Using only kief. My best return was 50 percent so .5 from a gram. Shatter consistency.

Yes, share your pics!

Happy to say I get better results since I squished 1.5g and got 3 small dabs. Although the hair iron is very hot after some minutes and difficult to handle. I need to work on a better solutions to apply pressure than my hands and need to find some decent compressed kief!