Discontinued RBT Milaana 1, 2, 3
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
- Start date
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
And I don't know if I would call it a common problem necessarily, since they don't all fail, just the defective ones of course
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
this is incorrect? is it possible?And I don't know if I would call it a common problem necessarily, since they don't all fail, just the defective ones of course
not because defective buttons, they just are limited to 36V 2A , and the Mi uses 4V~ and 15A~ or so? so it's too much Ampere for this button
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
this is incorrect? is it possible?
I don't know, just felt fairly certain they don't all fail... It was said to be certain defective ones, who knows for sure, depending on use
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
so it just a matter of time before somebody needs to replace it, it seems like..
new way to use it.. glass wpa is not found..but.... Alan's Cork is compatible with the UD's GonG, Mi3 session works great with a little bit preheat (screen is a bit lowered now)
Vap O matic
Well-Known Member
I see I am in good hands here in the forum. If something breaks, here are the right answers.
Have already broken a lot, so no problem for me.
Now it's time to get one. Just a few comments
zor
Well-Known Member
Curses, I knocked my M3 off my desk and she's not working well; I can see the ground glass hole cracked and broke in several pieces. Unit seems to generate heat fine but there's some additional air whistling when I pull, probably from the less-than-perfect seal due to the cracked GG.
Any thoughts on replacing the gg female end on the milaana? I kinda wanna pull all the pieces out and see for myself, I don't think I will risk using it for fear of inhaling small particles of glass, but it seems to be in really, really tight.
Any thoughts on replacing the gg female end on the milaana? I kinda wanna pull all the pieces out and see for myself, I don't think I will risk using it for fear of inhaling small particles of glass, but it seems to be in really, really tight.
GetLeft
Well-Known Member
so it just a matter of time before somebody needs to replace it, it seems like..
new way to use it.. glass wpa is not found..but.... Alan's Cork is compatible with the UD's GonG, Mi3 session works great with a little bit preheat (screen is a bit lowered now)
Nice mod. I used to use a ring of silicone around the end of my Mi2 stem. It allowed me to adjust how high above the heater the stem sat (I raised it a little to cool the vapor a bit).
androponic
vaped.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
eideal852
Well-Known Member
jesus i love this place...you got it still? shoot me a PM I can help get it going again or take it off your hands
> pry out the glass
I use a heat gun (SMD reflow station actually) and the heat breaks down the glue it comes right out.
I have replacement glass cut up / ready if anyone needs repairs
"need help!"
"jeeeez not again, *sigh* heres Help!"
"nah fuckit it too hard"
"cmon man, ill help!, let me help!"
if we all lived anywhere close i bet F&L would already be on his way over...
Speaking of, anyone SoCal? we'll start there...
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
I just hate to see any of these taken out of rotation permanently when I got this tub sitting here -
eideal852
Well-Known Member
jesus, so lame that im so turned on... I may need to get ahead of it here...
is that just mi3? is it og ~19/19 or can it go deeper?
Great to see Fear fixing these old Mi and it warms my heart that the RBT still is bouncing at the top of the FC!
This is just a quick note to let folks know that Herbaltherm.com has launched and there are a few videos on the HerbalTherm YouTube of the 5DD.
Its been a slow getting HerbalTherm started and I really need your support at this critical time to get some grease in the gears so keep an eye on the IG and join the mailing list on the www to be in the know as some deep discounts be happening
Due to staffing limitations (it's just me) the www, IG and the YT will be the only official means of HT communication so if there is something I can help with please use the contact form on the www.
This is just a quick note to let folks know that Herbaltherm.com has launched and there are a few videos on the HerbalTherm YouTube of the 5DD.
Its been a slow getting HerbalTherm started and I really need your support at this critical time to get some grease in the gears so keep an eye on the IG and join the mailing list on the www to be in the know as some deep discounts be happening
Due to staffing limitations (it's just me) the www, IG and the YT will be the only official means of HT communication so if there is something I can help with please use the contact form on the www.
FearAndLawyering
Well-Known Member
I generally use 19/22 like the splinter z - its a nice middle ground between the OG 19/19 and the 19/26 18mm standard. but theres also some 19/26 ones around for people that like the Lamart size. would have to test the fit probably, the overall width can vary by style/brand
hinglemccringleberry
Well-Known Member
Curious about this. So on paper the amperage of the 18650 batteries exceeds the button's amp limitations. But does this guarantee an eventual button failure on ALL units? Or are there other factors that might cause a Milaana button to last forever? It sounds like 2A is not an absolute maximum. If it was, everyones buttons would've stopped working after 1 session...this is incorrect? is it possible?
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
It should have been MOSFET-based ideally. As it is, every contact closure creates some arcing (and actually several arcs per trigger, as there is mechanical bouncing in these kinds of simple momentary switches) Each arc slowly eats the contacts away.
What happens afterwards is non-deterministic. One of the failure conditions is the creation of micro-welds and having the switch stay stuck in the "on" position at all times. But if the spring is strong enough, the welds are broken-off on release, leading to some material transfer from either side of the contact to the other. This case is theoretical and has not been reported with Milaaanas in the wild thus far, to my knowledge.
Otherwise the contact surface might progressively decrease, leading to less current carrying capacity (and thus energy lost in the form of heat due to the higher contact resistance, leading to a an anemic device...) Afterwards we can imagine that the arcing become even more focused and intense, accelerating the erosion process, to the point there's no contact at all anymore. Inspecting a failed switch could confirm this hypothesis. Or maybe they just fail mechanically in other ways internally and it has nothing to do with the arcing (keep in mind they are rated by the manufacturer only for a finite amount of cycles anyway)
But I believe in most cases it creates a variably pitted contact surface and if you press the button fully enough it will still mate and close properly, as there's still a considerable amount of metal and the arcs vaporize only minute amounts of matter each time, so there's a long way to go.
What happens afterwards is non-deterministic. One of the failure conditions is the creation of micro-welds and having the switch stay stuck in the "on" position at all times. But if the spring is strong enough, the welds are broken-off on release, leading to some material transfer from either side of the contact to the other. This case is theoretical and has not been reported with Milaaanas in the wild thus far, to my knowledge.
Otherwise the contact surface might progressively decrease, leading to less current carrying capacity (and thus energy lost in the form of heat due to the higher contact resistance, leading to a an anemic device...) Afterwards we can imagine that the arcing become even more focused and intense, accelerating the erosion process, to the point there's no contact at all anymore. Inspecting a failed switch could confirm this hypothesis. Or maybe they just fail mechanically in other ways internally and it has nothing to do with the arcing (keep in mind they are rated by the manufacturer only for a finite amount of cycles anyway)
But I believe in most cases it creates a variably pitted contact surface and if you press the button fully enough it will still mate and close properly, as there's still a considerable amount of metal and the arcs vaporize only minute amounts of matter each time, so there's a long way to go.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
the button supposed to be working with 36V,2A so 72W... the Mi3 takes around 60W max.. so.. it survives a lot of sessions but still it's getting ripped quickly than if the Mi3 would be using 36V and 2A and not 4V~ 15A~.... that's why there's an official video of RBT about replacing, eventually everybody will have to replace it.... but it's really super easy to do...
it's not supposed to work with 15A, but it's less than 72W, so somehow it works
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
That's not how it works in reality. The current rating is related to I²R heat generation, which is independent of voltage, and the voltage rating is about insulation when closing and opening the contact. It should not be interpreted as a power rating (if 72W of heat were dissipated by the contacts the plastic in the switch would likely melt anyway, the contact resistance once closed is assumed to be much lower than the resistance of the heating element)
Refer for instance to >> https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/360997/less-voltage-more-amp-switch-characteristis
Refer for instance to >> https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/360997/less-voltage-more-amp-switch-characteristis
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
but the difference between 24V 0.5A vs 12V 1A are not the same like 36V 2A vs 4V 15A, i think 15A will make this button hotter and shorten its life, again, easy DIY task...
and I think this paragraph is not right:
"
"0.5A" means, when the switch is closed, it can safely carry 0.5A. Ideally, the voltage across the switch will be 0V in that case, and the switch will dissipate no power. In reality, there will be a very small voltage across the switch, and it will dissipate a small amount of power. "0.5A" means that as long as the current is less than 1/2 an amp, the power dissipated will not be enough to harm the switch or anything else.
"
because if the switch is closed, how the flow/current will be passed on?
this is may be true:
"
No, you can't do that.
You must adhere to specs in every aspect. If there's a component that has derating curve, then its datasheet will say so.
Physically, what heats up switches and makes arching weld together contacts is current. Exceeding the current rating is a dangerous game, and you shouldn't play it.
"
and the button properties not saying that it can be used for long time, like 10 seconds consecutively, it's 1 click per ON/OFF.... hmmm