Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer

[SpiralArchitect]

Yup, looks like a solid product -- that's for sure. I really appreciate everyone weighing in with their again.

I still think it would be an optimal social vaporizer for me. Nothing indicates it wouldn't be -- it's durable, has a quick reload, small compartment, ease of use -- what makes it NOT optimal for over 3 people? I understand it has to be reloaded often, but that is the point. Usually weed flows freely at social gatherings in Alaska, and often the center of the party is a giant piece of paper with a mountain of ground up weed on it! Most of my friends and acquaintances usually get rid of the pile using a bong and loading individual snaps for everyone, but with the PD sitting eloquently next to it -- who could turn it down?

I'm still deciding if I want to invest in one or not. Like I said, this Friday, PFD's are released, that's 3,269 buckaroos I have to spend on new toys! Along with a VaporGenie, and bong attachment for my VaporCannon, a second vaporizing unit is something I really want to get for on the road/with friends/social events... etc.

That pic of the 3 herbs you posted vaporcloud answers my question precisely. The material the PD puts out is very consistent with how far I like to 'go' in my VaporCannon. The 3rd pile (maybe even a lil' darker) is about what is leftover after I zap the rest of the 'goodies' out of the ABV.

That dark toasted looks like the stuff that used to come out of our SV and even it had life after grinding. I think this has to do with exposing surface area and will be true of any pre-vaped material, no matter the brand of vape... 2c

Absolutely. I grind it into a fine, fine powder and load it up in my whip and have a plenty good time @ around 3o'clock.

I have seen the durability tests. I'm also pleased it has a 3 year warranty! Living in the conditions I live and with my friends, things are prone to be broken.

yeah, I have done a lil' bit of research on the VaporWarez and I couldn't find out what kind of wood it is for the life of me. Thanks for trying, 'preciate it!

Also, thanks for the input on the Walnut vaporgenie, after hearing it might be brittle and 'may not hold up as well' I think I may have to go with the Maple.

 

[max]

what makes it NOT optimal for over 3 people?

I think it's a better 'group vape' than a bag unit, and arguably a standard whip unit as well. It's easy to use for a beginner IMO (just don't hit like you're trying to suck the chrome off a bumper), and extra tubes would cut down on the spit swapping. Even reloading the same tube is quick. It's less likely to give a new user a hit he/she can't handle vs. a standard whip too.

 

[SpiralArchitect]

Precisely. When I teach my friends how to use my VaporCannon I am always hesitant because they either a) spill it, b) unscrew the heating element or c) can't get a hit for the life of them (they are sucking too hard, or too slow).

The PD seems to provide a remedy. It can't be spilled -- even when tipped upside down, right? It's easily reloaded, practically indestructible, and it seems to be able to deliver hits with the greatest of ease.

(and for the record, I don't like bag-vapes.)

 

[max]

It can't be spilled -- even when tipped upside down, right?

Well, it can, but it seldom happens. The better the quality of herb, the easier it stays put. The consistency makes a difference too. A mixture of big and small pieces makes a secure load harder to achieve, but light packing works great. Once loaded, a light tap or two on the tube (pointed down) usually shakes loose any grains that would come out during normal use. It's rare when I tap the tube and get anything to fall out. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the tube works.

 

[vaporcloud]

That pic of the 3 herbs you posted vaporcloud answers my question precisely. The material the PD puts out is very consistent with how far I like to 'go' in my VaporCannon. The 3rd pile (maybe even a lil' darker) is about what is leftover after I zap the rest of the 'goodies' out of the ABV.

heehee yeah my ramblings were ... well just ramblings and Max is so much better at putting it kinto words so I'd thought I'd go the grafical route to get my point across

The picture also shows how consistant the 'cook' is. The VaporDaddy pile has some dark patches which would suggest a slightly uneven cook. And that thing use to hit pretty well and was more efficient than my newer digital POS.

 

[vaporcloud]

The PD seems to provide a remedy. It can't be spilled -- even when tipped upside down, right?

I often leave the tube sitting in the PD in a vertical position and teaj some crumbs fall out but you just give her an upside down shake to remove them. The wife always hits in in a vertical position (that meaning the bowl is upsidedown) where as I prefer to sit and hit with the PD in a more horizontal angle.

 

[vtac]

Here's another pic of PD remains (from earlier in the thread, you lazy, lazy person! ).


It basically cooks it perfectly every time. I was skeptical, but not anymore. Yes you can get some more vapor out of it (I can easily get more out of it even in the PD), but the resin glands and all the tasty stuff have long been extracted.

I'm not saying you couldn't use it at a party but, agree with Tom that it's more of a 1-2 person thing. Like partially veiled, I don't like sharing it.

Sometimes when I'm laughing and hitting it some bits of herb get blown into the unit. Tom said vacuuming it out is fine as well.

By now we know it's a near indestructible little tank. But after growing so attached to it, I really can't stand the thought of her in harm's way. Oil, dirt, scratches... Fuck that! On the weekend I spent the night with her in a tent for the first time (friend's backyard, extension cord). It dropped down to about 5C that night but she kept me warm. Laugh it up, but what I did was wrap a cloth around her with an elastic to keep her safe. Yes I'm laughing too. So basically what I'm getting at is, how (ridiculously) cool would it be to have a custom made leather jacket for your PD? Basically just a sleeve with a bottom on it and holes for the cord/LED. Being the approximate size of a pop can I'm sure it would be easy to find something cheap as well.

 

[vaporcloud]

^^^ you need to get out more vtac

 

[max]

I'm not saying you couldn't use it at a party but, agree with Tom that it's more of a 1-2 person thing.

If 2 people can hit it back and forth, no reason it can't pass through 6-8 hands as well, aside from the time it would take to get back to the first person. Of course a bigger hitter would be better, so by the time someone quit coughing his lungs up he'd be ready for another ball busting hit.

I don't like sharing it.

We know. Wash your hands, show your ID, etc. Maybe a background check and medical exam? I know you're planning to buy another down the road as a 'guest vape'. (me too-any excuse will do )

Get some 0000 steel wool for a good cleaning. Followed by Buzz Butter of course . Seriously. It works great.

 

[stickstones]

So basically what I'm getting at is, how (ridiculously) cool would it be to have a custom made leather jacket for your PD? Basically just a sleeve with a bottom on it and holes for the cord/LED. Being the approximate size of a pop can I'm sure it would be easy to find something cheap as well.

I'm not sure what you were vaping, but I want some...that was one of the most fucked up posts I've read here! Did your PD start singing to you in the tent as well? Maybe dancing for you with some chocolate covered strawberries?

God, I love weed!

 

[voporay]

stickstones said"God, I love weed"
man i have been tokin for 22 years..have a few trips to amsterdam under my belt.
several trips to jamaica..and have seen some great stuff in the old u s of a..
i dont think that tale has anything to do with the effects of weed....hahahaha

 

[VapOracle]

Hello Purple-Days!

Your invention looks absolutely brilliant! I might just have to pick one up when I have some spare cash. I live in the UK, though, so I'll need to buy a 110v to 240v adapter, but they're pretty cheap thesedays.

I was wondering, have you ever considered making a Walnut PD? I've always loved the look of Walnut furniture, and was wondering if it was a suitable material for constructing a PD out of?

Ta,

VapOracle.

 

[partially veiled]

Hello Purple-Days!

Your invention looks absolutely brilliant! I might just have to pick one up when I have some spare cash. I live in the UK, though, so I'll need to buy a 110v to 240v adapter, but they're pretty cheap thesedays.

I was wondering, have you ever considered making a Walnut PD? I've always loved the look of Walnut furniture, and was wondering if it was a suitable material for constructing a PD out of?

Ta,

VapOracle.

I also loooves me some Walnut. It's a beautiful wood, such rich colors and interesting grains. However, I think it's better suited for building guitars than vaporizers... Or for admiring in nature, of course. Those stout Walnuts are actually seriously amazing trees...as all hardwoods are. I don't know too much about the specifics of whether or not Walnut would make for a suitable wood, but I can tell you that it's already been asked of Tom and this is what he said:

...We do not offer walnut. A general observation on Black Walnut: it is brittle and may not hold up as well as maple. Pretty stuff though.

Most folks pick Cherry, it's the house wood. It's attractive, durable, medium weight and the least expensive. My everyday unit is that beat up cherry unit I have used for all the durability testing. Still
vaping away. Pam likes her little laminate unit, one of a kind, and custom built extra small for her.

It's really too bad, as it WOULD be awesome to see a Walnut PD. I bet it'd be beautiful...they all are! Yet Walnut is just such a classy wood...and some Walnuts are so dark and rich that they're more of a purplish-brown color...how appropriate would that be?? I don't know much about this one, but another awesome candidate for a "true" purple PD could be Purpleheart, which is a variety of species within the genus Peltogyne. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purpleheart - if anyone is interested you should look for some pictures of this wood; it's REALLY purple! It'd be awesome!! Ahhh the pipe dreams of a vaporist.


Edit: Ah what the hell...clearly I have nothing better to do at the moment. This is laminate flooring, so obviously a hardwood block would not be so glossy...I'm sure it could be buffed to perfection though :




Purpleheart Hardwood

 

[max]

Your invention looks absolutely brilliant! I might just have to pick one up when I have some spare cash.

Excellent idea. You won't regret it.

I'll need to buy a 110v to 240v adapter

This is a 12V unit (connects to a car lighter with no voltage converter), so you'll just need a 12V, 50Hz wall plug. I think he gives a $10 credit to international buyers and leaves out the standard 60Hz U.S. adapter.

Excellent job on the PD wiki page VapOracle!

 

[Purple-Days]

Hello VapOracle,

I sent an e-mail with power requirement details.

Yeah guys I like walnut too. I made a nice walnut and rosewood jewelry box for Pammy many years ago. Almost black. Very pretty, but as I said it was a brittle wood and prone to splitting. This would not be a good trait.

Walnut is irritating to work too, smokes like crazy and the smoke is very bitter. Causes skin irritation too. Waaaa....

(Purpleheart is neat, I've handled it and it is purple.)

Yep, we credit $10 for the North American (60hz) transformer and $10 for our domestic shipping costs. Postage to the UK (and most other countries) is about $20 so it all works out even.

Then you go to the local electronics store and pick up a wall adapter suited to your electric grid. a 12 Volt, 1000mA DC output into a type M (2.1mm x 5.5mm) center positive DC plug. Pretty common stuff... (of course we send the car adapter and everything else with international kits).

For more details see, http://purple-days.com/International_Inquiries.html

Cheers,
Tom

 

[VapOracle]

Thanks Purple-Days! That's exactly what I needed to know.

As soon as I've scraped some pennies together you will definitely be hearing from me! The PD sounds like exactly how I like to vape (a couple of decent sized hits, then a break.) and the portability thing is a huge plus. Also, we live in a 400+ year old cottage, and due to it's age it can get a bit musty smelling in the living room. The aromatherapy diffuser cap would sort that out nicely.

Even though I doubt I can afford anything other than the Cherry wood model (which looks very nice anyway), I can't stop thinking about all the woods I could have in my imaginary custom Purple-Days! Maybe brown oak! or Ziricote! or Columbian Kingwood!

Excellent job on the PD wiki page VapOracle! bowdown

Ooh, ta. I didn't realize anyone had seen that yet. I'm still fiddling with it since I haven't got proper sources for everything, but since 99% of it links to the same thread (this one!), it kinda looks a bit daft referencing the same place over and over again.

If anyone wants to have a look and point out and mistakes or improvements I could make (or just make 'em yourself!), I'd be most gratified.

EDIT: Ah, I see someone has already - Excellent!

 

[vtac]

 

[Purple-Days]

Glad you got the info you needed, VapOracle.

Hey, I hadn't taken a look at the Wiki in a while, Big thanks. You seemed to get the whole thing down quite nicely. I made a couple of tiny, tiny changes.

I'm really leaning toward renewable / plentiful woods, like Cherry or Ti Tree. Those exotics are so beautiful, but the pressure is on. They are being over-exploited. I feel a responsibility. :/

Oh heck, I hope Pammy doesn't see your post, English cottage... She will have her fantasies, you know?

We are constantly surprised how many folks actually use it as an aroma diffuser. It works pretty well and sure makes a good excuse to leave it in the open.

 

[VapOracle]

Heheheh.. English Cottages are adorable, but they have their drawbacks. Namely pigeon's living in the chimney (which is threatening to drop off anyway), pooing everywhere and making an awful noise, doors so low you can knock yourself out cold if you don't duck in time and stairs that seem to have been custom designed for falling down!

It's also sad to see this lovely old cottage perched on the side of a fairly busy road. Funny to think that it was probably once surrounded by acres of open land, and now it's hemmed in by cheap 1960's housing and tarmac. Still, the house itself has real character and the back garden is beautifully secluded - like stepping out into the countryside.

I understand what you say about using renewable sources. I don't think anyone wants to own a Purple-Days if the wood it uses, as beautiful as it may be, is threatening the survival of the tree it comes from. The Cherry wood PD looks great, anyway.

Thanks for the work on the PD wiki, everyone! It's a much sharper looking article with your changes.

 

[Purple-Days]

BPA (Bisphenol-A) is in the news. It is used in the production of certain plastics. High BPA levels have been linked to heart problems and diabetes. #7 plastics are the problem. Hard and clear (usually). Also called poly-carbonates.

We use #5 Polypropylene (#5PP) for our vapor tubes. NO BPA. We are BPA-Free.

Still 100% Toxin-Free. And proud of it.

 

[partially veiled]

Got a question for all you PD enthusiasts (and I'd love it if you could put your "official" in as well, Tom):

How do y'all go about cleaning this little thriller? I mean a serious, top to bottom clean. There's not a whole lot to it, but I thought it might be worth discussing.

For getting those vapor tubes sparkling again Tom has given us the foolproof method: a soak and a hearty shake in Isopropanol, using the purple bottle which comes with your PD or something simiar. I keep my purple bottle filled with ISO and keep recycling the same stuff...I've done maybe three washes so far and the tubes keep coming out looking brand new. Really, I can't tell the difference when holding a "just cleaned" tube next to a totally unused tube. That seems to be the best method for cleaning tubes...so what about the rest of the unit?

Any tips or ideas for cleaning the top of the heat exchanger (the hollow SS "port" where you mate the vapor tube to the PD body)? I was thinking a simple wipe down with a Q-tip dipped in ISO, or something similar. This is also what I was planning to do for the hollow "air channel", the interior tube/channel where air gets pulled up from the heater to then be drawn out of the PD and through the bowl. I was thinking a pipe cleaner or a something similar dipped in ISO would do the trick, as I'm sure there's really not much at all to clean down there. I make sure every time I'm using the PD to knock out any loose herb that falls down into that tube, and other than that it's only clean air that moves through that little channel, so I'm thinking it doesn't need much cleaning. I don't think there's really anything else to do concearning the "interior" of the PD...I've heard mention of vacuuming to pull up herb bits which may have fallen down the air channel, but like I've said...turning the unit upside down, knocking the bottom a bit with the palm of your hand and blowing straight down the air channel seems to do the trick perfectly...be forewarned, however: you might get an eye full of crispy herb bits doing it this way .

Finally and most obviously, there is the exterior wood body to deal with. I am going to need to do this at some point...being the smart asshole that I am, I nicked mine with a sharpie the other night when I was working on something, so now it's got a small black streak across the front that's not going anywhere until I do something about it! It's not very noticble, but that doesn't matter much to my OCD. Max has mentioned that 0000 steel wool seems to do the trick well. I was thinking about sanding and buffing, but don't know much about different grades of sandpaper so would love to hear some one else's opinion about this stuff. The procedure is clearly: sand -> buff -> polish -> start hitting that bitch again. The question is what materials and procedures would be best/safest. Steel wool seems like a good canidate, probably more forgiving than sandpaper...the finish is just so smooth and well rounded as is, I don't want to screw it up and give my PD an uneven "grip".

Those are my ideas, I'd love to hear what other people have to say, or what's worked for others so far, etc. Tom man, I'm sure we'd all love to hear how you take care of your PD...but you don't seem to be as attached to the aesthetics of these units as we are, and I doubt you do much to care for your beat up ol' "test unit".

 

[max]

I haven't found that cleaning is necessary pv, and I've had mine for over 4 mos. I did put a pipe cleaner, damp with ISO, down the pipe a while back (holding the unit upside down, unplugged), but it came out clean. After vaping a bowl I make a habit of smacking the unit (top down) in the palm of my hand in case a few specks have escaped the bowl. 90% of the time I get nothing.

I think the steel wool will take off the sharpie mark just fine. I wouldn't think you'd need to use sandpaper, even the finest grade, unless you accidentally scuffed up the wood with something. Considering the purpose of the PD, I guess that's always a possibility.

 

[Purple-Days]

Hey P_V,

Ouch, we will get to the chain-saw accident in a moment.

Tubes seem to be a low maintenance item if you keep them reasonably clean. Sometimes they need a second soak and aggitation if clogged badly. Figured the dedicated bottle was a must for our kit.

The top disc of the heat exchanger is stainless steel and the clip is plated spring steel so you aren't gonna cause any problem with Iso on a swab, but you know that stuff has an odor and it might linger. I would rather see a dry wipe with a swab.

The HE tube should remain pretty clean, that's metal on metal and nothing there to get it dirty. I've never done anything other than turn over and shake out any crumbs. I suggest against prodding past the crossbar, you can't really accomplish anything . Just up-end and tap a little to dislodge anything that has fallen in. I do this once a week or so. (usually never think about it)

The exterior: When I am finishing up a piece I go through 60-80-100-120-150-220 grits. Then a #00 steel wool and then #0000.

I'm guessing (not sure how deep the cut is) a sheet of 150 then 220 then 320 instead of the steel wool (you have to buy whole bags of wool but can buy a single sheet of 320).

Fold and rip the sheets into 1/4s then fold those in 4 to work with. Work with the grain (finish sanding) and all the way around the unit is evenly sanded out in 150. Check for that scratch. Sand again, all the way around if needed as many times as it takes to get rid of the blemish. 150 is pretty forgiving and you won't cut too deep, but coarse enough to get rid of the problem...

Move to 220 paper and sand out (all the way around) a few times till you are happy and move to the 320 paper and repeat. As the paper fills with dust shake it out or wipe on your jeans to free up the grit.

Big Hint: get some foam rubber or similar wadding and stuff around and over the H.E., this will keep the dust out while you are working. Un-plug it too, haha.

When you are happy with the sanding just slick on some Buzz-Butter being careful not to get any in the H.E. area, leaving the wadding in place till the finish is applied is a piece of insurance. Buff the unit out with a sof cloth and apply a second coat of Buzz-Butter, buff again.

The leather bottom will enjoy a coat of Buzz-Butter too.

Under most other circumstances a little B-B wiped on and buffed out is plenty good for me.

 

[max]

not sure how deep the cut is

I think you misread that part Tom. His 'nick' is a mark from a permanent marker, not a scratch. Although the instructions for the 'scratch fix' are welcome if one of us has a major boo boo in the future.

 

[Purple-Days]

Uhhh stoner moment. I use Sharpies everyday, somehow my wires got crossed and I was thinking X-Acto knife.:/

Even if the sharpie went deeper than just a surface mark you can take a good bit of material away and never notice. Sharpies are ISO soluble but I think that would make the pigment drive further into the wood. Abrasion is the way to go. Try a dry, green ScotchBrite / Kitchen Scrubbie.

I'll never get the deep dents out of the test unit, but did take the roughness off with a light sanding. Don't want it lookin' too good.