Discontinued Purple-Days Vaporizer


Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
In another thread VTAC wrote, "This is sounding like the perfect car vape. More info/photos/videos please!"

And here is our story:

We started using vapor in 2003. We have both been habitual, heavy users since the early '70s.
I keep a pack of white 'Zags in the house but can't remember why... it's a vapor only world to us.

Our first vaporizer purchase was an Aromazap. (Aromazap told me he reverse engineered from two Eterra Vaporizers and started making them in 2001.) It worked well till an electrical connection let loose. I tore off the leather and cardboard bottom and made an easy repair, glued it back shut and continued enjoying it's use.

Until a big problem with the Aromazap product came out.
http://aromazap.com/myrtlezap.php :cool:
I have to quote his site (as the link no longer works) , "softwood, does not like heat. The heatport assembly will become loose in the softwood enclosure and begin rattling after some time. This process can take a couple years..." Our's lasted almost that long.

I took out the important components and I replaced the disintegrating Douglas Fir body with a hard, turned Myrtle body. (No more pine odor)

In 2005 we were looking for something different. And in 2005 all the rave reviews were about the Super-Vapezilla. We bought one. It failed eventually (after the warranty) and we choose not to repair it, for over $200.

The Super-Vapezilla taught us all the things we didn't want in a vape. The noise, the heat, the delicate electronics, the fragile glass, the whip, the mandatory cool down period, the hassle.

We wanted something easier to use, easier to clean. Something quiet, small, stealthy. Heck, we wanted another Aromazap, almost.

Pam suggested I ask about a custom Aromazap. So I sent off a colorful stick of Myrtlewood. I insisted that he use flax oil, to protect the wood, instead of a chemical finish. So I sent along some flax oil capsules.

We got a nice looking (with some steel wool and elbow grease) and much improved Aromazap product.

Several deliveries of myrtlewood were exchanged for several Myrtlezaps (his 'new' top line product). A 'lifetime supply' of vaporizers.

So why build Purple-Days Diffusers ?

Ergonomics for one reason. Pam has carpel-tunnel and has a weak grip. She and others just didn't like the feel of the square block of wood.

Health was the other reason. We wanted a vaporizer that we were 100% confident in. No questions about what it was built with. What was in it, what was on it? Does it contain lead ? Or other unhealthy stuff ? And how can you be certain ?

Some manufacturers refer to 100% lead free solder. But make no mention of the other parts in their product. I began to wonder why?

I started learning about ROHS compliance (restriction of hazardous substances) and that the same electronic parts were available both lead-free and 'has lead'. For a few extra bucks, 100% lead free was an option, just pick the right parts and pay the price.

I learned about how they used Acetic Acid (white vinegar) and Hydrogen Peroxide to remove surface lead on machined brass parts, way up on the International Space Station. Interesting stuff. Huh ? Yeah, lead and brass.

I started learning about brass.
"C?330 ? Primarily used for tubing, low?leaded (0.5% Pb) Brass C330 combines good machinability and excellent cold workability."

And that's the good stuff. 1 part in 200 = low-leaded. Mmmmm...who knows what grade tubing some folks are using? I have no idea.

All I knew was that brass was out for us.

Statements like "We do not have a choice regarding some of the electronic components..." by one manufacterer. Or another's reply,"We are not responsible for design changes nor changes made to the models should secondary vendors or manufacturers make changes to the parts they supply to us. All parts are subject to change without notice." Huh?

These guys didn't give me much confidence in something I was breathing through every day.

So, building my own seemed the only way to go.

I asked Pammy what color pilot light she wanted, almost joking. "Purple", was her reply. That's what started it all. Hendrix must have been playing recently when Pammy came up with the Purple-Days name.

The woodworking was no problem. I'm a retired carpenter and I've been a hobbyist woodworker since I was young. I love wood.

The electronics were no sweat, Dad was an Army Air-Corps radio repairman. I leaned Ohm's Law and how to make a good solder joint as a kid. Lead-Free parts are easily available at places like Digi-Key.
right next to the cheaper 'has lead' part. It's the manufacturer's choice.

The metalwork, well there was a big question. I knew I couldn't use brass. 304 Stainless Steel stood out as an obvious answer. But could it be worked? I was about to find out, the hard way.

I learned, (even with the phosphoric acid flux that was so hard to finally get) that I could not succesfully braze the top disk to the central heat tube of my heat exchanger. Another lesson was how little heat it takes to turn stainless into non-stainless, touchy stuff. Complete failure.

That was nearly the end of Purple-Days.

I don't know how, but a couple of days later I had a completely new, spring tensioned solderless design in my head and I was working out a prototype. After I made one it looked easy, but where the idea came from I will never know.

You can probably guess that material, like 3 sizes of stainless tubing isn't cheap. And you can't order it in 'one vaporizer at a time' quantities. Heck, the heavy leather bottom (over solid wood) on that first unit required a half a cow worth of dark purple leather, delivered from Maine. Plenty left over...

Friends and relatives started getting vaporizers as gifts. Mostly Myrtlewood and Western Maple.

They encouraged us to sell to "friends' of theirs. Everybody asked , "do you have a website?" and it became obvious what we needed to do next.

So what is it?

It's a passive-convection vaporizer. 100% Lead-Free top to bottom. Everything including the hook-up wire is documented lead-free.

Made by us, to be used by us. It's what we use everyday.

The base unit, about the size of a soda can, is a solid hardwood. Our 'house' wood is American Cherry. Other exotic woods are available.

The base has a stainless steel heat exchanger mounted in the top hole. The heat exchanger is powered by an industrial size heavy-duty ceramic resistor, documented lead free of course.

There is a recessed and discrete purple pilot light in the front. (edit: pilot light later discontinued) The bottom is covered in dark purple leather with a discrete logo. (edit: changed to a small laser logo on the wood)

A standard DC power jack is at the rear. Power can be either 12VAC(60hz) or 12VDC, doesn't matter. We provide a UL listed 12VAC wall transformer (US and Canada Kits). And a heavy-duty car adapter. (let the good times roll.)

We supply three vapor tubes, made with stainless tubing, stainless steel screens and spring steel retaining clips. These are mounted in #5PP food grade high-temp plastic mouthpieces. They have the see-through look of frosted glass and are easy to clean. We include a dedicated bottle for clean-up with your alcohol.

The tip of the vapor tube is loaded with dry, ground tobacco lightly packed. The tube is mated to the heat exchanger tube and air is drawn through the material releasing vapor. 1-3 draws will release about all it has to give. (Pam sometimes takes more but she takes shorter draws.)

Blowing the spent material into our small muslin 'waste tobacco bag' will keep your pad clean. And you may find future uses for this waste material. We also put a larger, matching bag in to tote your accessories.

There is a solid copper aroma diffuser cup, you can use aroma oils or crumbled incense, for those that want an excuse to keep a 'vape' in the bathroom.

Oh, and you get a tin of Buzz-Butter. :buzz:
It's the only finish we ever use. No stains or petrochemical finishes ever.

Our all-natural non-toxic finish, Buzz-Butter. :buzz: Chemical free bee's wax from the Tahuya River Apiaries, pharmacy grade Organic Flax oil, Organic Coconut oil, Organic Hemp oil along with natural Rosemary extract (anti-oxidant). Works great on wood and outdoor leathers.

All of it shipped in a heavy duty re-usable white box.

$180 for Cherry.

($220 for custom units, you provide the seasoned hardwood. We turn, sand and bore then take pictures for approval before any commitment.)

$220 and up for exotic woods like Tasmanian Figured Blackwood, Macasser Ebony, Cocobolo Rosewood and more
http://purple-days.com/ExoticWoodsShop.html Edit: Sorry we have discontinued exotic woods to concentrate on our standard North American Hardwood products.

That's the good stuff. What about the bad?

It takes 30 minutes to warm up to the vapor zone. Not for everybody, nothing is... We mention it several places on our website. No hiding it, it's for a habitual user. Not designed for a once a week , spur of the moment toke-up.

That heat exchanger is a 100 gram mass and takes a while to warm.
Once there, it stays in 'the zone' till you unplug. (Like when I threw it to the truck floor the other day, to get it outta sight of a cop. http://www.fuckcombustion.com/viewtopic.php?id=45 )

It draws under 8 watts, less than 2 night-lights. An inexpensive timer can lessen your carbon footprint and have the unit ready for breakfast.

It's meant to run 24/7 and provide pleasure anytime for 1-2 people. Perfect for us.

The perfect car vape?

We use it at home and on the road (don't drive distracted, don't drive impaired). It's what we use everyday. Durable and easy to live with.

There is a video link on our info page http://purple-days.com/Info.html

Thanks for taking the time to read about us, and visit our site.
Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

Edit: Later in this thread you will see pics of the purple leather bottom, it was stamped with our URL. We no longer stamp the bottom for stealth reasons.

Warranty and Troubleshooting Tips:
The Purple-Days Diffuser is warranted for three years. If it ever fails to make vapor, when provided with the appropriate power, we want to know.

We don't manufacture the wall supply or car cord. They are high quality, factory tested, and warranted for 90 days by the maker. We test them again at our facility. They leave here in full working order. If the wall power supply fails within 90 days of your purchase we will replace it. If you return the supply and the cord or plug have been damaged. ie. we cut off 6" or so of cord and plug, strip the wires bare and get voltage, then the transformer is fine and you may replace it at your discretion, either purchased from us Vepenow or other sources that are readily available. If a transformer has actually failed, we will gladly replace it, during the warranty period.

Car cords are nothing more than that, a cord, if one fails you may expect the same warranty as the power supply. Fuses are not a warranty item, and if you blow more than two stop and contact us. Replace only with the same style and rating fuse.

Troubleshooting Tips:
If a unit is not heating and you have checked connections at the wall and the unit: Check that there is power to the outlet. Is a wall switch thrown or breaker tripped? Use another electrical appliance to assure that you have outlet power. Power but no heat: There is very little to go wrong inside a Purple-Days and the same is true for the simple AC to AC induction transformer supplied for North America. In almost every case it is a damaged cord or plug. If the wall supply isn't working use the car adapter to troubleshoot; plug the PD into the car adapter then into the car outlet, make sure the red LED is lit to indicate power and a good fuse. Check for heat after a ten to 15 minute period. It will not be up to full temperature that quick but you will soon know it the unit is working. Car adapter (red LED) failed? Check the fuse. No luck at all? Odd, contact us for further instructions, after doing all the troubleshooting you can. You can usually find the problem quite simply.

If you drop the Purple-Days and the heat exchanger retaining clips are dislodged, the heat exchanger will rattle back and forth. Please don't let this condition persist. Use the provided clip tool to re-seat the retaining clips. If the heat exchanger is allowed to continue to jostle back and forth and the clips are not re-seated the wooden walls will be beat out of shape and the unit may become un-repairable. If you do not have one of our clip tools write us for a free one and instructions on using it.

Edit: January 9, 2009
Thanks to VTAC and other contributors the Vaporpedia has a condensed look at the Purple-Days vape and what it has become. http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Purple-Days
Thanks again to everyone who helped make 2008 such a great year.

April 15, 2009:

A huge thank you to everyone for your support over this last year, we could never have come this far without FuckCombustion and the fantastic bunch of folks that hang out here. Muchas gracias, amigos.

For all your other vape needs see our friends at

Edit: August 2011
Our Original product, assembled by me, is only available in North America.
Building the parts, assembly and finishing each unit is a time consuming process, but one I enjoy. Since it's just me building them there is a limited supply. Demand for our product keeps me busy and there is a line of folks waiting. Usually 4-6 weeks from order to ship date. USPS 2-3 day Priority Mail with delivery confirmation. If you live in an apartment there will be signature confirmation.

If and are in Australia or New Zealand we also sell a kit form, a do-it-yourself project.


Thanks again to everybody who has made this all possible.
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Vapor concierge
Thanks for taking the time to put that up there! At the risk of asking you something that you may be biased about, how does the vapor from your unit compare to good home units such as my Extreme?

How does it compare to something like the VaporGenie?

Assuming, of course, you have used these units. It's interesting because your unit is priced between these other units, one made for home and the other for being portable.
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Well-Known Member
Thanks for your interest, stickstones.

Of course I am biased, I'm proud of our work. :D But I try my best to be honest, too.

I have never used a VaporGenie. But I can see a place for it, fishing on a quiet riverbank, or at a wilderness trailside. Sounds like you enjoy yours. Sounds like incomplete butane combustion and partial herb combustion are concerns with some folks.

I have never used an Extreme either. It sounds like a top notch product.

I've never bag vaped, we just aren't the party animals we used to be. Again I see a place for bag vapor. It just wasn't for us.

We have owned a high profile digital whip vape , and that wasn't for us either.

Most important, you ask, "how does the vapor from your unit compare...?". :)

Our units use an electrical formula and load size that has been making vapor for 30 years. I redesigned the vapor path and added some radiating fins into the heat exchanger mass. It creates a more efficient heat transfer and it produces a more satisfying draw according to users.

It's a 'full, satisfying vapor' first draw. As you might expect the second draw is not as flavorful or satisfying, but uses up the last of the volatiles on your plant material. Pam usually takes three smaller draws before her material is spent.

The herb load is fully spent in 1-3 draws (depending on herb quality, dryness, and the draw size). None of the "all day vape" to get the last drop from an oversize or in-efficiently vaporized load. ;)

These are small efficiently consumed loads, no stirring. Take a pinch, stick it in the tube, mate the tube to the heat exchanger and draw. Spent loads blow free easily and you take another pinch...

Pam said, "vapes are like dogs." Lots of shapes and sizes and tempers. There is no 'one size fits all' dog. Same with vapes I think.

Our's isn't for everybody. But it was just right for us. It's what we use every day. Modern non-toxic materials. Low profile look. It feels good! :D Yeah, I'm biased.

Any questions, just ask.
Thanks again,
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vapor junkie
Staff member
I knew the design looked familiar (saw the Aromazap and Eterra before), but it sounds like yours is the best (construction wise at least) of that design type.

The pics are a bit deceiving, I thought it was a lot larger than a pop can, but compact is good! At first I thought the prices were a bit high, but $150 for a toxin free vape hand made from cherry, plus all the stuff you throw in is a pretty nice deal. Assuming it works well of course. :)

The 30 minute heat up time is a bit long, but if you can leave it on all day with no worries I suppose that evens things out. Adding the Purple Days to the list of vapes I want to test. :D

Is temperature controlled solely by draw speed?
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Glass Blower
this units seem nice man !! I also like the way it is made ,the vap seem to make a thick vapor too !!!look like a good vap ! decent price too !! exotic wood is sublime !!!
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Well-Known Member
Thanks for the kind words everybody. :D

Your viewpoint, vapor tactician, makes me think I need an everyday item in a picture or two for perspective.
Coins maybe? I'm glad you think compact is good.

Just checked a Coke can, 2-5/8" x 4-1/2" .
Our units average 2-1/2" to 2-5/8" diameter and are about 4-1/2" tall.

We wanted it comfortable. I have a nice set of calipers but don't really use them much at the lathe.
I just turn till it 'feels' good, years of beverage holding tells me when it is right. ;)

Our vapor tubes are 1/2" diameter and about 3-3/4" long. Easy to handle and clean.

We certainly can trace our genetics back to those others, but have tried to raise the bar.
It had to be better or it wasn't worth doing.
A more complex heat exchanger geometry is part of the line-up.

I wanted a fuller, more consistent vapor. In our design, air must pass over a set of stainless fins that make up the thermal mass.
Same vapor zone temperatures, but more surface area to efficiently release that heat into the air stream.
Air seems more evenly heated over a wider range of draw speeds. ;) It's my opinion. It's what the design was intended to do.

We had some tough choices when it came to pricing. We never go cheap when it comes to health and safety, that's the reason we started this.
Cost came last when choosing components and suppliers.

And Pam wanted a complete kit. I thought she was right. Nothing extra to buy.
Complete meant a heavy-duty car adapter and third vapor tube included. Plus all the other goodies that round out the kit. We thought every one of them was important and useful. Even a nice box to keep it all in.

And we had to go UPS. (EDIT: Shipping is still included, we now use U.S. Postal Service 2-3 day Priority Mail and Delivery Confirmation, faster and still 100% reliable)

You can probably tell, profit was not the only motive. Yahoo, PayPal, IRS, UPS, Suppliers, Overhead there isn't so much pie left. But, we refuse to cut corners. Good value at prices everybody could live with and understand. $150 as a base price seemed to be it.

'if you can leave it on all day with no worries I suppose that evens things out', says vapor tactician.

My rosewood unit never gets shut down. (Un-plugged for a minute or two to get out to the truck or back inside.) It runs 24/7 and is ready anytime. I may be hours between draws, it's ready. I might sit and get blasted for hours, it's ready. Middle of the night and need relief? It's ready. Quiet, durable, dependable. It's what we use everyday, all day.

Clear_Dome, I'm glad you like the exotics. One of a kind pieces. Some are a bit flashy for my tastes. :cool: http://purple-days.com/Pink_Ivory.html

Thanks again, questions comments or suggestions are always welcome,
Tom and Pam
The Purple-Days Team


Well-Known Member
If I was in a situation where I could vape anytime without consequences, I could see using a vape like that.

However, for where I'm at, the 30 minutes is a dealbreaker. But it looks like a nice vape.

I guess because the temp is constant you could cycle through those tubes as fast as you could refill them.
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Vapor concierge
I've been heating my Extreme up for about 20 minutes before using it anyhow, so 30 minutes on this one wouldn't discourage me. The Extreme doesn't need this warmup time, but I find I get better results with it. And more times than not I give it longer to warm up just because I get busy doing something. I dig it that you can leave it on all the time...I wouldn't dare do that with another vaporizer.
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Well-Known Member
We aren't for everybody. I don't think any vape is.

djelimon says,"If...I could vape anytime without consequences."

I think that's the audience we may be best suited to serve. Habitual, daily users.
Medical users or others who want instant access to vapor.

"I dig it that you can leave it on all the time" says stickstones ;)

Like the cup half full / half empty dilema. Some see a 30 minute warm up. Some see always on / instant access.
But, I can see where it doesn't work for everybody... that's why I get the issue right out front.

djelimon also says,"I guess because the temp is constant you could cycle through those tubes as fast as you could refill them." Maybe not that fast, but we 'vaped-out' a visitor the other day, we were feeding him tubes (two draws each) faster than he could take in vapor. Whoa! he said... :lol:
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Out to lunch
Since Tom has done all the heavy lifting, I guess it's time to put in my 2 cts on his vape. I've had mine for almost 2 weeks. I wanted to live with it a while before I commented on it, and I've certainly done that. I've even tried it out with the Vapolution battery pack. We had a storm shortly after I got home from work yesterday, and we lost power. We decided to eat out and I grabbed the vape and the charged BP. The vape went right in my jacket pocket. It's not a pants pocket vape, but it easily fits in a jacket. I did an estimate on eating time and hooked up to the BP so it would be ready to go when we were. We had about a 10 minute ride back home and I vaped a couple of bowls while my wife took the scenic route. The BP has a 6" cord, which can be a pain with the Vapolution. With the smaller PD vape, I was able to hold the vape and the BP in one hand with no problem. The jack on the Vapolution is very slightly smaller, so the BP connection wasn't perfect but snug enough. ;)

As for my take on the vape, I like it a lot. I love the wood. It has a beautiful finish and it feels as good as it looks. Nice feel in the hand too-good weight and solid. No rattles. The top half gets pretty warm with use, but it's never uncomfortable. Would be a good hand warmer in the winter. The stainless steel obviously gets hot, but I can lay my hand flat on the top of the unit and it's no hotter than the wood shell. So you just have to keep your fingers away from the shiny parts-not a problem. This vape can sit out on display as a diffuser, and it won't get any questioning looks, just admiring ones. :cool:

I've loaded the bowls two ways- Scooping up ground herb from the palm of my hand for a loose load, and stabbing the bowl down into the herb in a pill bottle for a larger load. Packing it fairly tight and still getting a fully vaped bowl hasn't been a problem, but it could be if the herb is a really fine consistency. The hits are surprisingly big, but never overpowering-bigger than the Vapolution, which I think invites comparison. I'd say the hits are closer to the SSV than the Vapo. Speaking of my 3 month old SSV, I haven't stopped using it, and don't intend to, but I'm using it less. I still love the big Surfer hits, but the PD is a nice contrast. It's efficient and easy to use for a few hits. Blow out the bowl and I'm good for a while. Smooth hits too, like the Vapo, but the PD is an easier draw. I've had no trouble whatsoever with overcooking. Too many draws will give you that burnt popcorn taste, but it never blackens the herb. The Vapolution is more touchy in this area. The vapor tube doesn't get hot and the bowl cools quickly. The bowl is spillable, and you do have to be careful to keep the right angle-at least horizontal. I've gotten some herb down the hole a few times but it comes right out. Along with the 30 min. warmup, having to keep the right 'non-spill' angle is probably the least user friendly aspect of the vape, but you can't have everything, and it's a small minus for me. :)

I'll be sending my Vapo BP and charger out to Tom for evaluation. He's not sure how much demand there is for a BP, but I think he can sell enough to make it worthwhile. A BP gives his vape the same portability as the Vapo, aside from heat up time. I know he likes to include everything in the kit, but a BP would be a nice option IMO. What do you guys think? :cool:

And yes, the Vapo has pretty much lost its starting position. It'll be a bench warmer now, just getting into the game in certain portability situations. For me it's the SSV and PD, with an occasional herbalAire bag. My wife even likes the PD, and she's a 'bag lady'. :lol:


vapor junkie
Staff member
Thanks for the mini review, max! If you're comparing it to the SSV, it's gotta be good!

I agree a battery pack seems like a logical accessory for the Purple Days, if it's drawing less than 8 watts, shouldn't be a problem, right?

There's really not enough info out there on the PD, but I guess that's changing now. ;) Personally I'd love to see some more pics... do you have a digital camera, Tom? If any vape deserves some good photos it's the PD... beautiful craftsmanship. I especially like the Cocobolo :D

The more I think about it, $150 for the base cherry model is a steal. When you consider how much solid wood furniture costs, the time and skill required... he's practically giving it away.

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vapor junkie
Staff member
Few questions:

So you're saying that the bowl end mouthpiece can't point down or it will spill out. Makes sense. So basically you hold it up to your mouth, keeping it angled back and then take the mouthpiece/bowl out before you put the unit down?

About the 30 minute heat up time, is that the minimum? I mean, does it work better after an hour? Or can you start vaping in 10 minutes but sub-optimally?

From your post, I'm assuming taste is as good as the Vapolution/SSV?
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above the clouds
nice post max but can you make some pics?
i'd like to see how you put the plant material in the vapor tube...in the same vapolution's style?
i can't believe that this metal heat exchanger gives the same taste than glass..but you told is the same Vapo taste...i'm surprised!

please tom give us more pics of your baby!!
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Out to lunch
The more I think about it, $150 for the base cherry model is a steal. When you consider how much solid wood furniture costs, the time and skill required... he's practically giving it away.
Yep. This vape is like a work of art that's also functional. For the same price, you get a choice of green or black paint on the Vapolution, and the paint job leaves a lot to be desired. I've seen 3 units, and the paint is uneven at best. They may be doing better paint jobs now, but at best it would be 'blah' compared to the PD. I keep telling myself I'm going to repaint my Vapo. I'm not a skilled spray painter, but I can't see how it could look any worse, especially with a few marks and scratches from use. My wife has knocked the PD to the floor (I take the blame for putting it in harm's way) a couple of times, landing on a lamp base about 2.5 ft. down, and I can't find a single scratch or dent. I'd also bet every PD has at least 3-4 times as much time and effort put into the wood finish alone as the total build time for the Vapo (could easily be 10 times instead). It may sound like I'm picking on the Vapo, but that's the one it competes with in my opinion, and I just like the PD better. The Vapo has that all glass vapor path which is hard to beat, but I really can't tell any difference in taste/flavor. Maybe someone else has better taste buds than I do, but for me there's no metallic taste at all. My wife can't downgrade the taste compared to the herbalAire (which she normally uses) either. When you consider that every piece of wood used to make this vape has at least a slightly different look to it, you're getting a one of a kind vape. Mine is the Western Maple and has a beautiful grain pattern. If it were sitting in a room full of PDs, all with the same Maple wood, I could easily pick mine out of the bunch. It might as well have my name engraved in it as far as being able to ID it.

So you're saying that the bowl end mouthpiece can't point down or it will spill out.
I've often packed a bowl with the 'stabbing in the pill bottle' method where the load is secure and stays put, even pointing down, but you can't depend on it staying put when you place the bowl in the vape and start hitting it. If you pack it so tight that you have a really secure load, where you don't have to worry about spillage, you risk an incompletely vaped bowl, where the herb at the top doesn't get fully cooked. You can always choose to pack tight and then revape the spent herb later, but I'd rather cook it thoroughly the first time. I have revaped spent herb from the PD in my SSV, and found it to be as efficient as the SSV, only getting a very slight hit from a nice full bowl. That pretty much duplicated my revaping experiment for the SSV's spent herb. As inexperienced as my wife is with direct draw, she also easily gets the bowl fully cooked.

So basically you hold it up to your mouth, keeping it angled back and then take the mouthpiece/bowl out before you put the unit down?
Yep. Once the bowl is loaded, I put the unit in front of my face (at a horizontal angle at least), insert the vapor tube and hit. No preheating needed. You get a good hit immediately. I do turn the vapor tube slightly, or even pull it out just a fraction of an inch before I'm done with the bowl, since the vapor tube stops against the crossbar. But the crossbar's only an issue if your bowl is really packed full-right to the outer edge of the bowl. I hold the Vapolution the same way when I use the 8" bowl, but unlike the PD, the Vapo takes both hands since the bowl has a carb. Expelling the spent herb is a breeze too. Just a slight puff usually cleans out the bowl completely. The screen in the vapor tube really is permanent too. He uses a 'c clamp' to keep it in place and that screen isn't going anywhere with normal use.

About the 30 minute heat up time, is that the minimum? I mean, does it work better after an hour? Or can you start vaping in 10 minutes but sub-optimally?
I haven't tested to see how quick I can get vapor. I'll try that tonight and let you know. Maybe Tom has determined that 30 min. is minimum. Seems like the first heat up time I saw was 45 min. As for better performance after an hour, no difference between 30-40 min. and 3-4 hours as far as I can tell.


Well-Known Member
I've got a camera but can't figure out how to post a pic. (feeling dumb :/ )

"he's practically giving it away." Well, not quite, but it's more hobby than work. I wouldn't want to sit and figure my hourly wages. It's fun, gives me something to do. And I feel good about doing it. :)

We are always proud when we have another satisfied user. But, pleasing a vapor enthusiast, like max, is really , well ... :D Thanks, max.

I'm looking forward to try out the battery pack with the proper plug. It'll have to work great, or we won't offer it.

"can't point down or it will spill out." Hmmm. Not really, it's a small diameter tube and a lightly tamped load won't just fall out. But surface crumbs can drop off occasionally. Any crumbs that fall in the hole fall right back out. I fill the tube then lightly tamp.

I just remembered the YouTube of our rosewood vape. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O69n6rlVeMw
I'm holding it in my normal natural position. Not really horizontal at all. It's something I just don't think about often, not after using it this long. If you remove the tube before setting the unit down less material gets knocked free, but Pam forgets all the time and it just doesn't cause a problem.

Scooping, stabbing, sucking, pinching. Whatever loading style you are comfortable with. Pam does it different, she sometimes uses that stabbing method, which I don't thinks works as consistently. Here's the way I do it.
A nice walnut bowl for herbs, a pinch, or two and a light tamp, stick it in the heat exchanger and draw. Man that tobacco has a funny color under floro lights. :p

"this metal heat exchanger gives the same taste than glass" asks marcus. It's 304 Stainlless Steel, food industry standard. Same with the #5PE mouthpieces, high temp food grade stuff.

BTW we are very careful about washing away all manufacturing residues. Food grade isn't much good unless it's washed and ready for the table. Fanatics aren't we?
Our workshop page shows some assembled heat exchangers ready for a final bath in very hot soapy water.

"Or can you start vaping in 10 minutes but sub-optimally?" No, the units are tested at 30 minutes and are above the minimum vapor making temperature. You may see water vapor before this. But, they will not be warm enough to volatize the important compounds you are after before that time. At about 45 minutes the heat exchanger and the wooden chassis will be just a little warmer and become stable at an optimum temperature for the full flavorful draws everybody expects.

The Cocobolo is pretty wild stuff, vapor tactician. Extremely heavy too. The long stick of it rung when you rapped it with knuckles. It had a clear tone.

As always, questions, comments and suggestions help us to get better. We welcome them.
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vapor junkie
Staff member
I've got a camera but can't figure out how to post a pic. (feeling dumb hmm :/)
Anyone who makes a vape as nice as yours is far from dumb. :p
Here's one place you can host you images and how to do it. (This is assuming you have a digital camera and the images are on your computer.)

1. Go here
2. Click the "Browse..." button and locate your image on your computer with the browser that pops up
3. For "Image(s) content" select "For Adult Only" (just to be safe)
4 Click the "Upload Image(s)" button

5. Give it a few moments to upload and then on the next screen that appears...
6. Select and copy the text under the heading "Clickable Thumbnail for Forum (1):"
7. Paste that in your post here, done!


vapor junkie
Staff member
Scooping, stabbing, sucking, pinching. Whatever loading style you are comfortable with. Pam does it different, she sometimes uses that stabbing method, which I don't thinks works as consistently. Here's the way I do it.
It's amazing how much a little imagery helps clear things up. The "bowl" is a lot smaller in diameter than I was thinking, makes more sense now.

So your unit is rosewood, which rosewood is that (there are a few, aren't there)? Yep, Cocobolo is really nice, I've got a pen made from it, the color and grain patterns are beautiful. :)
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Well-Known Member
There are a lot of rosewoods. You are right.

My personal unit is East Indian Rosewood, Dalbergia latifolia from India & Sri Lanka. Cocobolo is also a rosewood, Dalbergia retusa from Mexico. There are quite a few others. African Blackwood Rosewood, Dalbergia melanoxylon from Tanzania is on our wish list of exotic woods.

I sorta play guitar and have always liked a dark rosewood fretboard. Kinda had to have a rosewood unit. :)

Thanks for the tips on posting a pic, vtac. (and the nice comments)

Here is one to give a little size perspective, a cherry unit, it's from the loading the tube video.

This is the angle I naturally hold my rosewood unit at. No worries. ;)

A shot of three units together

That's a Cocobolo Rosewood, my East Indian Rosewood unit and a Pink Ivory on the right.

Tasmanian Blackwood (figured), Bocote and Rose She-Oak.

One more,

a fresh Cherry unit that left here this week. Cherry gets darker with age. We do not use any stains, just the natural color of the woods, finished in all natural, non-toxic Buzz-Butter.

Thanks for your enthusiasm, everyone.


Vapor concierge
Hey Tom,
I've read this whole thing and still don't have a clear mental picture of what's going on inside the thing. Probably because I'm new to vaporizing. I'm trying to visualize what the inside looks like and how the metal vs glass plays into it.
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Out to lunch
I'm trying to visualize what the inside looks like
Yeah Tom. You did such a good job on the pics-surely you can give us a CAT scan. :lol:

I've tried the more natural, slightly downward angle while hitting the vape. First couple of bowls did fine. Only a couple of "surface crumbs". The bowl is more user friendly than I thought. The herb stays in the bowl very well if even lightly packed.


Well-Known Member
Hi, stickstones

I'll try and give you a better idea what's happening.
The air you are drawing through the herbs, enters the top disk of the heat exchanger, travels downward past a series of radiating fins. At the bottom (about 1-1/2" down) the air makes a turn and enters the Heat Exchanger tube. It then moves upward past the ceramic resistor (lead-free of course) which sits in the bottom of the heat tube. The resistor is in full contact with the heat tube wall and releases excess heat into the heat exchanger mass , which just heated the air you are drawing past that mass and those those stainless fins.

Compared to a car, the resistor is the engine, the heat exchanger is the radiator up front. Air moving past those stainless fins is heated. We use that heated air for making vapor.

Glass vs. Stainless Steel.
We use 304 series Stainless Steel Tubing. Also called 18/10.

Our stainless tubing comes from two American Suppliers. The larger sizes are from MSC Industrial and are aircraft tubing. Our smallest size, used for the vapor tubes comes from a hypodermic needle manufacturer, in Boston, who has been around since 1932.

Quality stuff. Or we just won't use it. :)

From Wikipedia
Stainless steels are also classified by their crystalline structure:
* Austenitic, or 300 series, stainless steels comprise over 70% of total stainless steel production. They contain a maximum of 0.15% carbon, a minimum of 16% chromium and sufficient nickel and/or manganese to retain an austenitic structure at all temperatures from the cryogenic region to the melting point of the alloy. A typical composition of 18% chromium and 10% nickel, commonly known as 18/10 stainless, is often used in flatware... cutlery, cooking, surgical tools...Stainless steel is also used for jewelry and watches.
Stainless steel is 100% recyclable. In fact, an average stainless steel object is composed of about 60% recycled material, 25% originating from end-of-life products and 35% coming from manufacturing processes.
(end of wikipedia quote)

Flatware is forks and spoons etc. Taste free - odor free. We eat with the stuff everyday. All my cookware is stainless. The food indutry relies on stainless steel.

And we wash it , just like we are serving it up for dinner. :)
No oils or flux (we don't use it) or any other residues are left to create a taste or odor.

Glass is clean, glass is good. We didn't want it. We are too clumsy. I have broken beautiful bongs and bowls and glass vapor stems. I drink from a plastic cup (#5PP BTW) because I break glass .

On another thread someone was going to do a durability test with Vaporizer X, he says, "so for the physical tests i will be taking the glass heater cover off. they do use the hardened glass, so it is likely to withstand more of a wollop than standard glass, but when dropping the unit from the roof or sending it flying through the air, one can assume breakage of the glass".

Durability test? Sorta...

Durability was an issue for us. You just can't know when you might drop something. Ask max, "My wife has knocked the PD to the floor ... a couple of times" and that's in a couple of weeks.

Just like us, it seems. Oops, off the dining table and onto the hardwood floor it goes. No worries. Can't know when to remove any breakable parts. Can you ?
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Vapor concierge
Thanks for the handholding, PD. I've only been researching and using vaporizers for a combined 8 months (researched for three, using for the last five). So, without much education, my kneejerk reaction to vaporizers is to get an all-glass unit. If I'm reading you right, the stainless steel will not effect the taste nor will it pass on any toxins, similar to glass. Do I understand you correctly? If so, then a stainless steel model that is tough as nails is genius!
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Well-Known Member
Purple-Days said:
On another thread someone was going to do a durability test with Vaporizer X, he says, "so for the physical tests i will be taking the glass heater cover off. they do use the hardened glass, so it is likely to withstand more of a wollop than standard glass, but when dropping the unit from the roof or sending it flying through the air, one can assume breakage of the glass".

Durability test? Sorta...

Can't know when to remove any breakable parts. Can you ?
well, being that you have posted this morning, im guessing you have seen my test. you may have noticed where i challenged anybody to go "hit for hit" with me.

i love the fact that you posted the vid that you did with you tossing it up and having it land on some mysterious surface(haha, i only slightly kid there, im absolutely certain that it did land on the limestone gravel that you claimed, i just have absolutely no idea of the consistency of that limestone gravel because you didnt show us it on the camera), and would love it if you posted more test vids as i will continue to.

but come on now, why try to take swipes at me
is the hammer test "sorta" a durability test
and, for your future knowledge, it is da buddha vaporizer. not vaporizer x.

please. show off the strength of your unit. but remember. your unit is made of wood. mine is quarter inch thick anodized aluminum. you can take shots at me for removing the glass, but i could take shots at you for having a housing that cannot take the physical abuse that da buddha can. personally, id rather keep things civil.


above the clouds
hey vaporists!

here everybody know that Tom is a vape maker and he is proud to promote his product!
This is clear!.....
Tokinglx seems to be the bigger "da budda" promoter in the net but i don't understand if he is doing this incredible promotion just for he is in love with his vape or for other reasons.
Both reasons are legit but this is a bit cloudy to me...anyway 7floor should be really happy to get a super promoter for free!

i like this forum for his user friendly and freedom of speach...please any vape maker should make outing:)
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