Discontinued Lil' Bud by Vapwood

[P.A.M.]

Mike, awesome workmanship and what a wonderful design! It’s already exceeded my expectations!

EDIT: Holy crap! Quite sneaky the way it wrecks you!

Did Mike make a believer out of you , @nonbeliever ?

Congratulations on your new Lil' Bud ! What a beauty welcome to the club !

 

[nonbeliever]

Did Mike make a believer out of you , @nonbeliever ?

Congratulations on your new Lil' Bud ! What a beauty welcome to the club !

Oh, I believe! After a couple of hours of getting to know it, I think I have a new daily driver.

Lil Bud rocks!

 

[Bravesst]

Maybe we should start a new Elite thread, because those LB are gorgeous and need to be talked about. And @P.A.M. you're correct, I have lots to say as I develop a new product. I kind of like to think out loud, and share the evolution.

With that said, I had another epiphany - love when that happens, but it's back at the drawing board - I guess Phase Zero. It should be a pretty painless adjustment, but in the end what has to happen.

I was thinking about the board mounting process all wrong. I don't need shoulders for it to mount on from below, it is designed to be mounted to the underside of the front plate from below, and the plate mounts to the front, and float in the mortise - elegant. This will give us plenty of clearance for wire passage with a wide open, adequately deep, mortise that the board doesn't touch, it just hangs from the top.

I am not sure how the works for a customer Stinger front plate, which I originally was working with, but the 3D printed plastic ones from shapeways, come with screen holders. Once screwed from below, the buttons and screen will be captured in between the cover plate and board. Presto, a modular chip mounted to the cover plate, ready to be mounted to the front of the unit.

That will now become the challenge, mounting the front plate to the unit with the board pre-assembled and installed, and making it look good, and / or integrating the Stinger custom front plates (or my own custom plates). Working prototypes will be built with the 3D front plates to start out.

So all that mental work wasn't necessary once I realized the best way to do this, but I guess it's a process. This is how the entire evolution will probably go, have to take some steps back to go forward.

 

[bossman]

I agree the Elite should probably get its own thread. It'd make more sense to separate all the DNA settings/usage conversation which in my experience can become the bulk of the content in any product thread with a box mod power source.

 

[P.A.M.]

I agree the Elite should probably get its own thread. It'd make more sense to separate all the DNA settings/usage conversation which in my experience can become the bulk of the content in any product thread with a box mod power source.

that is my reasoning for it too. It has nothing to do with you having lots to say , @Bravesst . The Lil' Bud experience would not be the same without your detailed, valuable and informative posts .

wood anyone ?

you were not building Blends when i shipped you a chunk of Koa . Had I known , I'd have sent you this along with it. 31.75" long , 1.75" thick , about 5" wide all together, all squared. Dark wood is Koa , Light wood is Korina .

 

[beyond6strings]

Hey @P.A.M. thanks for reminding me of the rimmed screens. Right now I'm finding I get the best experience with the rimmed screens in my short stems and the OG domed screens in the longer stems. The rimmed screens add draw restriction that help me with the short stems but aren't necessary with my longer stems that have enough restriction due to length and ID.

 

[DirtyD]

Been using an 18-14mm glass adapter, then load 14mm glass stem and plug into adapter. Been doing this past few weeks instead of using wood stem. Love the wood stem but maybe the air restriction helps the hit? Almost like a different vape now, in a good way tho. Thing is, I already loved the lb using wood stem . Now here's even another awesome way to use it for me. Thanks to Mike and all, and cheers, D.

 

[P.A.M.]

@beyond6strings you're welcome friend, thank you just the same , I wouldn't have bought the rimmed screens if not for your posts about them .

I'm still using the rimmed screen! It gets dirty abit faster being finer mesh but it cleans very easily with my steel bristle brush. I love how it can't slide down the roasting tube and how I don't get jabbed by mesh wire when tapping in my load . It makes stirring easier too, the pick tool doesn't get caught on the side of screen .

The rimmed screens add draw restriction

maybe the air restriction helps the hit?

Yes, i would third that motion .

I need to get in touch with @Alan if I haven't already , maybe have a smaller ID tube made up , along with a longer stock 12mm diameter ID tube ! I think both would work great.

Thing is, I already loved the lb using wood stem

Mmhmm, I hear you bud! I love my stock LB !

 

[Mr. Gweilo 420]

My LBB has arrived in HK. Bloody fast from the USA. Hopefully in my hands tomorrow or the day after. I have no idea what it looks like so can't wait to see

 

[Bravesst]

@P.A.M. I'm going to have to try a rimmed screen. It will steel some heat, but we seem to have plenty of that these days. I know I have some around here. The mod of drilling a half inch hole into the 12 mm hole also keeps the basket screen in plate (provides a shelf about a half inch in). I've been using that as I don't like screen sliding around either.

Adding some restriction is a good thing. I do that with a new screen by adding hemp fiber. Once my screen gums up a bit, I usually dump the hemp. Too wide open sometimes makes it hard to hover the heat in the load for just the right amount of time.

Glad to hear my LB's are arriving safely and the improvements are obvious. Blends, Classics, Uniqs are all leaving here with the same level of QC. I can honestly say, LB has been tweaked to death and it shows...

-------------------------------------------------------
Elite Talk
I am explaining to Alan my new discovery on how to mount board to the front plate, vs the unit, and I'm not being clear enough. From below the board is screwed UP to the front plate. The 3D printed plastic front plates have tabs built into them to accept #0 screws from below (3 corresponding to the mount holes on the board). This modular unit (wired up board, buttons, plate and screen) can now be installed from the top down (working on this concept).

The first units will probably be all cherry and maple, blends and walnut will come next.

So to start a new thread, do I just actually do it myself? I guess I should start it in the new and unreleased, or maybe I should wait until I officially release it in a month or so, then just start another thread under portables. Any opinions?

-------------------------------------------------------

Going forward

 

[nonbeliever]

@P.A.M.
So to start a new thread, do I just actually do it myself? I guess I should start it in the new and unreleased, or maybe I should wait until I officially release it in a month or so, then just start another thread under portables. Any opinions?

-------------------------------------------------------

Going forward

I’d rather see the discussion on both in one thread. @Alan has 2 threads on the iHeat, and one gets almost no traffic,the other very minimal. Wait till you release it if you must.

 

[bossman]

@Bravesst, yeah start it in unreleased and they can move it when the time comes.

Question about screens for my fellow LB lovers: I've only ever done the two screen sandwich. I have some rimmed basket screens but haven't used them with anything. Do you guys pack your LB with no screen on top sometimes? I see folks use their Splinter like that. It seems like the Alan tube is too precisely fitted to have a basket rim on the edge.

 

[Diggy Smalls]

I'm an iheat user, which is a cousin to the LB. I use a regular screen pushed a little deeper and a rimmed screen forming a sandwich, and I like it a lot. Maybe give it a try with the Lil' Bud, Cause iHeat cartridge likes it.

 

[P.A.M.]

i agree with @bossman . And it seems we are close enough to have a quick lived , get your asses ready upcoming thread for the LB Elite

I hear what you're saying @nonbeliever , I think Alan as one thread for the cartridge alone and another thread for the cartridge with home base .

Here @bossman , a quick glance of the rimmed screen on a roasting tube by Alan . It is a snug fit for sure but sits nicely.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

I like the unreleased section ideal. It allow all the early talk on the elite to not clutter up the LB thread. When it's released can decided if it needs it own thread or continue here.

 

[bossman]

Here @bossman , a quick glance of the rimmed screen on a roasting tube by Alan . It is a snug fit for sure but sits nicely.

I'm gonna try that with my glass-lined 4" tube from Alan, thanks PAM!

 

[Bravesst]

Hey all,

Personally, I'm not quite ready to post on two threads, and I'm not really sure you could say the thread will be cluttered as compared to some other popular threads. After the Elite is released, I should have more time for posting. More posting will take me away from what you all want me to do - build. You are all correct in assuming I'm going to talk a lo about what I'm currently doing most of, but that should not restrict your comments and questions, which could be about any LB topic. I'll also try and separate out Elite stuff.

My recent breakdown of all the *coil to x* measurements has paid off quite a bit. The 5 mm's on either side of the basket screen, resulting in 10 mm coil to tube, plus another 2 mm's to weed, seems to make combustion difficult. This 10 to 13 mm zone, at the level of heat my coils are currently capable of, result in a robust, full flavor. Striking the perfect balance of heat, for me personally, is a bit easier when I have this 12 mm's to work with. I am theorizing, but at 12 mm's from flower to coil, the heat pretty much stays low in tube / flower unless you pull. I like the freedom of not having to pay such super close attention to button depression that this configuration gives you.

Elite Progress
------------------------------------
I figured out how to bury the board in the unit while attached to the plastic cover plate / screen holder. On to the next challenge, how to finish it all off with a back plate on top of that. I have a feeling each step forward will uncover some challenges of its own.

 

[sickmanfraud]

If someone uses the rimmed basket screens they are also "protecting" the roasting tube from the direct heat of the coil.

 

[Bravesst]

I'll tell you what I'm gonna do... Once the Elite is up and running (not released), I'll establish the new thread in the unreleased section. Sound fair?

Gonna be another busy week. I still have a couple of repairs to complete, coils to form. My current plan is to squeeze in another trip to the post office by Friday. It's out with the old, in with the new, and with that mentality I am having a *clearance sale* on every unit in my Sweet Deals gallery. There are a few fully assembled, some in pre-assembly. These are LB 2.3 units, all the upgrades except the shorter height, but same coil to stem ratios (except for 2 tough to tame units which are a bit closer), ss foil lined oven, new switch, cosmetically awesome. Every Unit: $150 bare bones. This sale will help fund the R&D going forward, and keep me fat with supplies.

>> sweet deals

 

[Mr. Gweilo 420]

I'll tell you what I'm gonna do... Once the Elite is up and running (not released), I'll establish the new thread in the unreleased section. Sound fair?

Gonna be another busy week. I still have a couple of repairs to complete, coils to form. My current plan is to squeeze in another trip to the post office by Friday. It's out with the old, in with the new, and with that mentality I am having a *clearance sale* on every unit in my Sweet Deals gallery. There are a few fully assembled, some in pre-assembly. These are LB 2.3 units, all the upgrades except the shorter height, but same coil to stem ratios (except for 2 tough to tame units which are a bit closer), ss foil lined oven, new switch, cosmetically awesome. Every Unit: $150 bare bones. This sale will help fund the R&D going forward, and keep me fat with supplies.

>> sweet deals

Huge bargain! There are some amazing units in the gallery. Hoping the postman leaves me something tomorrow

 

[Bravesst]

At this point in the Elite build process, every day is an adventure. Last prototype build went well, today, not so great. Sparing you the boring details, many hours of work did not result in a working prototype, and I'm a bit confused as to why. I have a theory that it might be the actual buttons, and how well they are positioned under the cover plate. I powered it up and got a white screen, nothing else. I soldered 4 wires to the board, actually that part of it went really well. Last time wires were too long, this time, I went too far and had to struggle with wires that were a hair short. I managed to get past all this, and BAM - white screen!!! I had to pull away. My last formed coil didn't survive the attempted rebuild that also went south, so my next order of business is forming coils, and getting a couple of repairs together. I need to take a break from the Elite for a couple of days...

 

[beyond6strings]

At this point in the Elite build process, every day is an adventure. Last prototype build went well, today, not so great. Sparing you the boring details, many hours of work did not result in a working prototype, and I'm a bit confused as to why. I have a theory that it might be the actual buttons, and how well they are positioned under the cover plate. I powered it up and got a white screen, nothing else. I soldered 4 wires to the board, actually that part of it went really well. Last time wires were too long, this time, I went too far and had to struggle with wires that were a hair short. I managed to get past all this, and BAM - white screen!!! I had to pull away. My last formed coil didn't survive the attempted rebuild that also went south, so my next order of business is forming coils, and getting a couple of repairs together. I need to take a break from the Elite for a couple of days...

When I was learning to play the harp guitar I can remember how tired I got after just 45 minutes of playing. It was hard, those extra 5-strings looked different, sounded different, and figuring out how and when to hit them took hundreds of hours.

I remember how good it felt to pick up a standard 6-string; something I could play. It helped to do something I'd mastered. But it also gave me a chance to process what was going on with the harp guitar and how I might re-approach the parts that were giving me problems.

And I'll say this. Learning to play the harp guitar helped my 6-string playing. Building the Elites will inform your future Classic builds every bit as much as the Classic is informing the Elite now.

You got this.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Try this Mike.

Read it's mainly due with a fixed battery when connecting the screen after connecting the battery, disconnecting the battery and reconnecting should solve it.

Or could be a bad screen, maybe can you try other screen after you take a break? Kinda odd it just stop working so hoping it's first reason. Some discussion on it below.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/69954-white-screen/

 

[bossman]

My emailed link to the gallery doesn't work. Curious if there are any single wood classics in the sale area.

 

[Bravesst]

Thanks for encouraging words. The first prototype was working without a cover plate and external buttons installed. That's what i'm working on now, the board/screen/button installation, as well as wiring. On the first prototype, my soldering skills with a circuit board were mediocre at best, this time things seem to go much quicker. Board barely got warm as connections were quickly made. First time around, the board got considerably hotter and I was concerned, but it worked fine. Ironically, wiring / soldering went smooth, but got a white screen on the second build.

Board mounted with tiny #0 screws to the plate up from bottom, pulling together the plate and the board, effectively squeezing the buttons in between. I opted for custom steel buttons, vs the stock plastic. The fit was good, not great, and possibly the issue, as they didn't sit just right. We'll never know because I didn't get it apart in one piece to rebuild. Long story, but this is what happens until I gain some experience with each phase.

Prototypes have a way of biting the dust when trying to rescue them from oblivion. On this one, after the white screen, I immediately dissected the unit, and the coil, which has been through 3 installs, wasn't worth tweaking another time. It finally hit the coil junk heap. One day I'll take a pic of that.

I remember how hard it was to nail down the Classic. This is actually quite less, as all the really tough stuff is worked out. I just need to integrate the board both physically and electronically. I've done both to a some degree, just not on the same build. It's quite expensive (chips are costly, as are plates) and time consuming, but probably the only way I can get to the level the Classic is at now, is moving forward regardless of how things turn out per build.

But, with that said, I'm getting a little burnt out. My eyes, neck, hands, and brain all hurt. Today was frustrating, but not without lessons learned. I found out that soldering to the board isn't bad after a video or two and some practice tries. I do need to slow down and think five steps ahead on each build, and maybe waste less time. Eventually the process will be set in stone, but before that happens, I need to step back from the Elite for a few days and take a break.