Simple and sophisticated is quite an accurate description.
The improvements which occurred between batch 7 and 8 have been remarkable.
You wouldn't think changing the angle of a vent hole could make so much difference, but it creates just a right turbulence and resistance to help heat soak your product with no hot spots.
Same thing with the 2 inch piece of stainless steel foil that wraps the inside of the coil compartment. This addition was so simple, yet so effective at keeping the heat exactly where you want it - not in the wood body, but reflected back into the coil for greater efficiency and even more power.
I'm not sure what is up with switches that fail, but I think earlier switches aren't letting the full capacity of the 18650 to flow through. If the contacts are weak, resistance builds and eventually parts fail. But if the contacts are strong, full power flows, with no heat build up in the switch, and all that power is flowing into the coil. This wasn't such an easy change, as the inside of the switch box now has to be squared out (mortised) to fit the larger switch, instead of just drilling a hole.
The coil compartment groove has helped center the coil, and this practical repositioning of the coil directly under the load has improved performance dramatically, allowing a very even heating of the stem, reducing the need for stirring.
In addition, the coil itself has been wound a bit tighter, and this seems to radiate even more heat. Getting more soldier to flow into the coil connections (mesh to wire) has also made a noticeable difference in coil performance.
The power belt / disc sander has raised the bar aesthetically, and saved me lots of tedious hand sanding. The new buffer I've attached to my drill press has taken the beeswax finish to another level of sheen.
No one really has an LB in their hands with all of these changes except me. Once I ship batch 8A, I'm looking forward to hear what you have to say.
What's next?
The improvements which occurred between batch 7 and 8 have been remarkable.
You wouldn't think changing the angle of a vent hole could make so much difference, but it creates just a right turbulence and resistance to help heat soak your product with no hot spots.
Same thing with the 2 inch piece of stainless steel foil that wraps the inside of the coil compartment. This addition was so simple, yet so effective at keeping the heat exactly where you want it - not in the wood body, but reflected back into the coil for greater efficiency and even more power.
I'm not sure what is up with switches that fail, but I think earlier switches aren't letting the full capacity of the 18650 to flow through. If the contacts are weak, resistance builds and eventually parts fail. But if the contacts are strong, full power flows, with no heat build up in the switch, and all that power is flowing into the coil. This wasn't such an easy change, as the inside of the switch box now has to be squared out (mortised) to fit the larger switch, instead of just drilling a hole.
The coil compartment groove has helped center the coil, and this practical repositioning of the coil directly under the load has improved performance dramatically, allowing a very even heating of the stem, reducing the need for stirring.
In addition, the coil itself has been wound a bit tighter, and this seems to radiate even more heat. Getting more soldier to flow into the coil connections (mesh to wire) has also made a noticeable difference in coil performance.
The power belt / disc sander has raised the bar aesthetically, and saved me lots of tedious hand sanding. The new buffer I've attached to my drill press has taken the beeswax finish to another level of sheen.
No one really has an LB in their hands with all of these changes except me. Once I ship batch 8A, I'm looking forward to hear what you have to say.
What's next?