Discontinued Impcognito

[Shit Snacks]

I'd appreciate it if anyone could contact the mistvape owner(Dave is it?) and ask him to check his PM's on here. I'd still like the original one, even if these work.

I'm pretty sure he does not have any more stems left or capability to make more at this time... Also pretty sure he does not pop in here anymore either unfortunately and is not even super active on IG...

I think you can get stems from other artisan manufacturers here though, there are many that make stems that can fit the TM and can probably make stems to fit Imp, like Good Vibes Boro (iPodMike on Reddit since you can't do Instagram), Oregon Glass Blower (by email), Alan@toasty-top.com (Heat Island), Dan Morrison is always busy with nomad and toad stuff but if mist made stems that can be used with his vapes, maybe his stems can be used with mist vapes??? Can hit him up here at least! Also try vladtheinhaler here as he may pop in eventually and be able to help you if he has to write size tubing available... These custom jobs could take a bit of patience though

Off topic: While I was browsing for stems, I spotted they have tinymights on aliexpress for $100. I'm tempted to put that on my wishlist for my birthday at that price. It might not be the OG but the reviews are good and it looks exactly the same.

No no no no no no, do not trust that, it is a knockoff, it does not use the same high quality materials as the authentic TM, save up for the real thing, would not trust those reviews it's a shame people are being tricked like this... Kind of tough to trust anything but glass from place like that!

 

[SilvaVapor]

Sorry, not sure what your talking about.

The shelf.

Well, that's what it's there for.

I figured it was for the deeper baskets. It doesn't seem close enough to the heat source that far back, meaning you have to jack the temperature up a lot more. I've been getting good results my way.

Hard NO.

Gentle why? Have people on here tried them out and had bad experiences?

 

[Shit Snacks]

Gentle why? Have people on here tried them out and had bad experiences?

Yes, there are people that took it apart and compared to the real thing, do not trust it!

 

[SilvaVapor]

Yes, there are people that took it apart and compared to the real thing, do not trust it!

Fair enough, thanks for the heads up.

 

[Mribisback_]

Oh yeah i didn't think that through, obviously the stem part is a standard diameter.

Does anyone know the exact measurements of the original stem? Outer diameter, inner diameter and length.

I've just eyeballed the inner diameter of the chamber at 14mm. The airizer stem that didn't fit has a diameter of 14.6mm. So I might try and find a stem with a 14mm outer diameter.

This looks a bit too basic but it might work:
Generic High borosilicate glass tube - 50mm long - 14mm Outer Diameter?

Anyone tried Tinymight stems with this? Thank goodness I kept my DC Gen2 as backup, used it last night, it's quite a downgrade but hopefully temporary and I can get a new stem ordered pronto.

Honestly you could have a stem today if you're willing to put some work into it. You could run out and buy some fine grit sandpaper and sand the bowl down a bit until it fits. Should take 15-20 minutes. I've done it once before.

Wear a face mask and eye protection, do it outside.

This is assuming you have an arizer stem, if I read that correctly.

 

[SilvaVapor]

Honestly you could have a stem today if you're willing to put some work into it. You could run out and buy some fine grit sandpaper and sand the bowl down a bit until it fits. Should take 15-20 minutes. I've done it once before.

Wear a face mask and eye protection, do it outside.

This is assuming you have an arizer stem, if I read that correctly.

Nah I got a refund on that. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[TeaCup]

The shelf.


I figured it was for the deeper baskets. It doesn't seem close enough to the heat source that far back, meaning you have to jack the temperature up a lot more. I've been getting good results my way.


Gentle why? Have people on here tried them out and had bad experiences?

Still not sure what your talking about, lol??? Are we talking about the same thing......I thought this was a discussion on Dave's OG stem? What dimples and roundness are we talking about?

Also, if your not gonna use the shelf in the stem than why do you want the OG stem for. It's nothing more than a 14mm tube of glass. Except if you used the shelf. If your way works for you, then run with it. And if the stems you linked are too short and you don't care about appearances then order two stems from your link and slap a thick piece of silicone around it. Silicone around the stems and PTFE plumbers tape around the silicone will stabilize it.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I always felt like the shelf was actually a little bit of a negative too, more required stirring

 

[SilvaVapor]

Still not sure what your talking about, lol??? Are we talking about the same thing......I thought this was a discussion on Dave's OG stem? What dimples and roundness are we talking about?

Also, if your not gonna use the shelf in the stem than why do you want the OG stem for. It's nothing more than a 14mm tube of glass. Except if you used the shelf. If your way works for you, then run with it. And if the stems you linked are too short and you don't care about appearances then order two stems from your link and slap a thick piece of silicone around it. Silicone around the stems and PTFE plumbers tape around the silicone will stabilize it.

Haha, the dimples(shelf) and the roundness were two different points. I was just talking about the lip of the tube itself there. Although, maybe I'm overthinking that, even if there is a difference, it could be easily sanded and smoothed out.

After asking the seller if they could do me some 65mm tubes, I had another thought. I could buy the 100mm tubes and use a glass cutter to cut it to the right length. Though, it seems a lot of effort for 15mm difference. I will wait and see how the 50mm tubes are. I don't want to get too ahead of myself and jinx it but judging by some of the longer tubes they sell, where it states a thickness of 1.5mm. That would give a 11mm inner diameter which would be perfect for the OG baskets.

Quite hopeful these could work now and feeling more relieved.

 

[TeaCup]

I could buy the 100mm tubes and use a glass cutter to cut it to the right length

Now I don't know why I said connect them, I'm a moron, lol..........yes, this

 

[SilvaVapor]

Now I don't know why I said connect them, I'm a moron, lol..........yes, this

At least you're not a clumsy drunk oaf, who thought it was good idea to refill your imp in the kitchen(tiled floor). I had to crawl on my hands and knees finding all the glass balls before I could sweep up.

I have just ordered some 80mm ones instead. I might be able to fit all 10 glass balls I bought instead of 6 that way. Although the minimum order is 10... Good job they are cheap lol.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33046314050.html

Ordered a glass tube cutter too, so I can experiment with different lengths:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003813081332.html

 

[SilvaVapor]

Just an update, in case anyone was thinking of pulling the trigger on the glass tubes I found, to have as spares.

They finally arrived today and everything fits as expected(tube and baskets inside the tube), so the thickness must be 1.5mm. It was well packaged,
the tubes were taped tightly together in paper, then wrapped in lots of foam material with tape around that, then placed in a cardboard box filled with yet more fabric foam material. It did take a while to get here but the postage was free, so I wont complain.

I'm not sure whether the original stem was quartz or exactly the same as this glass but I did some digging: High Temp Borosilicate is supposed to be good up to 930F+. This stuff should be more than adequate for regular long term use on a vape either way.

The ends are ok to use on your lips, not super smooth but not rough either(I suspect they've had a buffing). If you're picky, you will notice they're not perfectly cut at a flat angle on some of the ends(some are better than others). I might buy some fine grit sandpaper to get the perfect finish but I'm in no rush and I kind of expected it at this price. It works out of the box, which is all that matters.

I don't think this should count as double posting, since a lot of time has passed between these posts and I wanted to update anyone interested but feel free to merge if you like mods.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I'm not sure whether the original stem was quartz or exactly the same as this glass but I did some digging: High Temp Borosilicate is supposed to be good up to 930F+. This stuff should be more than adequate for regular long term use on a vape either way.

The original stems were boro, and yes of course there is no issue using any glass really with stems, I've never heard of any issue with glass stem chambers and paths sourced anywhere having any issues with heat vaping...

I don't think this should count as double posting, since a lot of time has passed between these posts and I wanted to update anyone interested but feel free to merge if you like mods.

You're good, if the edit window has passed, then it is not back to back posting, no reason to merge, if you do back to back post accidentally in the future, you can just report at the bottom to tell the mods btw

 

[SilvaVapor]

Just looking to add some more spare baskets and perhaps replace the red O-ring.

Anyone got any good recommendations for the baskets?

There's a 10.7mm diameter on the originals according to mistvape, so I'm thinking 11mm might just squeeze in. I can only seem to find 10 and 12mm personally though which is a shame. I'm half wondering how hard it would be to shape a basket out of a flat gauze screen but it's probably more difficult than it seems without the right tools.

As for the O-ring, the "Arizer Solo Silicone O-Ring Easy Flow" dimensions seem similar(unsure of the outer diameter of the impcog, I will measure tomorrow). Judging by this recommended on reddit as a replacement for someone: It has a 13.97mm ID and a 19mm OD, with a 2.4mm cross section. I'm half wondering if I need a slightly smaller ID(13.5mm), the one I have probably isn't worn down much it's probably the size of the unit itself is off slightly.

I had a quick attempt at removing the stock one to measure it but it wont budge and I don't want to damage the impcog trying. Has anyone else removed theirs and what tool did you use if so?

 

[SilvaVapor]

I encountered some new problems this weekend with the resistance readings of the coils being all over the place and atomizer not found errors. Removing the atomizer and screwing it back in place worked eventually but I think the 510 contact screw is probably the issue. I flipped it upside down to try and alter the height to get a firmer contact but the screw appears worn and I can't get enough purchase to remove it with a screwdriver.

I might as well replace the screw to get it working good as new and have a spare one of those while I'm at it. Anyone know what size contact screw the Impcog takes? Any help would be appreciated, I would rather have the part before I begin the process of removing the old one, as I don't want to have to put that one back in.

 

[CanikUser19]

I encountered some new problems this weekend with the resistance readings of the coils being all over the place and atomizer not found errors. Removing the atomizer and screwing it back in place worked eventually but I think the 510 contact screw is probably the issue. I flipped it upside down to try and alter the height to get a firmer contact but the screw appears worn and I can't get enough purchase to remove it with a screwdriver.

I might as well replace the screw to get it working good as new and have a spare one of those while I'm at it. Anyone know what size contact screw the Impcog takes? Any help would be appreciated, I would rather have the part before I begin the process of removing the old one, as I don't want to have to put that one back in.

After you get it sorted out, put it on a dedicated mod and leave it on there. Reduces the wear and tear on the hardware.

 

[SilvaVapor]

After you get it sorted out, put it on a dedicated mod and leave it on there. Reduces the wear and tear on the hardware.

Yeah, it's my go to atomizer now anyway(hence why I'm buying spares, as I want to keep it working for a while). I think most of the wear was there when I bought it from the previous owner, hopefully it's an easy part to replace.

 

[CanikUser19]

Yeah, it's my go to atomizer now anyway(hence why I'm buying spares, as I want to keep it working for a while). I think most of the wear was there when I bought it from the previous owner, hopefully it's an easy part to replace.

With it being your go to right now, have you dialed in any Artic Fox settings, or strictly wattage? If AF, care to share what’s working? I’m still not quite satisfied with my setup yet.

 

[SilvaVapor]

Ok, so I ended up having to remove the screw to measure it. Tried chiselling a grove for the screwdriver to get purchase but in the end some needle nose pliers worked. I measured the contact screw at 18mm long, the screw diameter 2mm and the head diameter 5mm.

I also removed the O-Ring while I was at it, with success this time. Since I couldn't find anything better, I used the same pair of tweezers I tried the first time(those thick flat top ones that usually come in black) but this time pointed the angled end upwards and levered it down and outwards that way(it kind of rolled it out). I measured it by eye at :18mm OD, 14mm ID and a 2mm Cross Section.

Pics below:

Note: The tape measure was hard to hold straight with one hand, while taking a picture, so allow some correction for the angle being slightly off.

I've put the contact screw back in for now, while I source one but only finger tight. The Live resistance, without any heatsinks was around 0.211 Ohms.

Adding the heatsinks, I noticed a big change in the resistance, which shouldn't be happening(raised it too high). Seperating the two I was using and testing them separately, it appears the 22mm heatsink was the culprit. Using the low profile 24mm heatsink only , I've managed to get a 0.211 live resistance reading. I think having one heatsink will be enough to keep the mod cool and this style of heatsink on it's own looks a lot better too, since it doesn't alter the height much. So I will keep it like this from now on. Although, I will still replace the contact screw, along with the O-Ring.

With it being your go to right now, have you dialed in any Artic Fox settings, or strictly wattage? If AF, care to share what’s working? I’m still not quite satisfied with my setup yet.

Honestly, I use the same settings I recommended earlier. My most used is: 35W, TCR 140, with a starting temp of 370F. The Pi Reg setting I use is
Range: 77%, P: 420, I: 10

I probably don't need to tell you most of the following, since you're advanced user but it's worth repeating for anyone else. Using the above settings, with the right resistance locked in, normally works well for me. Getting the resistance right is pretty important, so you should check the live resistance in artic fox's device monitor and then add 5 to that value. If you're still not happy after adding 5 go up in increments of 1 or 2, checking to make sure your coils aren't glowing when it gets to temperature. 0.228ohms was a good spot for my coils, until my resistance readings started going haywire last weekend.

Make sure the airholes on the impcog are lined up, side on with your coils(for stock anyway). After that, obviously your draw technique is pretty important too. Slow and smooth works for me but reading earlier in this thread, others seem to be suggesting: Start with a fast draw while it gets up to temperature and finish with the slow and smooth once it get to temp. I suppose a lot of this paragraph comes down to personal preference and how big the bowl load is too.

 

[CanikUser19]

I’ll add this profile to the two I’m trying now, thank you.

 

[SilvaVapor]

I’ll add this profile to the two I’m trying now, thank you.

Let me know how you get on with it. With your different profiles, do you also check the device monitor while you're using it(empty chamber), to see if the voltage and temperature reading stay pretty stable(no big spikes or drops)? Or are you just judging it by how good the hits are?

 

[CanikUser19]

Let me know how you get on with it. With your different profiles, do you also check the device monitor while you're using it(empty chamber), to see if the voltage and temperature reading stay pretty stable(no big spikes or drops)? Or are you just judging it by how good the hits are?

Just by how good the hits are. I like to get to vaping so don’t tinker too much with the firmware (my knowledge level is set on “basic”) beyond setting up working profiles.

 

[SilvaVapor]

Ordered a couple of silicone O-Rings the other day. Couldn't find any 13.5mm ID ones as I'd hoped(always the way) and I thought 13mm would be too small, so I've gone for a thicker cross section(2.5mm and 3mm) which hopefully means it wont be seated as far back as the stock one was.

I cannot find anything like the original 510 contact screw anywhere. Where did he get them?
I wasn't expecting to find the same head shape easily but I've been looking for a brass, M2, 18mm long, with a DIN963 style head on it.
The closest I've found is a steel M2 DIN963 screw that is 20mm long, I suppose I could saw off a couple of mms easy enough but the conductivity drop off is my main concern(it will change the readings too much I suspect). If I could find that in brass, I would give it a try. Anyone got any suggestions where to look? I've already checked aliexpress, ebay and amazon. It's a shame the mistvape owner doesn't come here anymore, he had to have sourced them somewhere but it is what it is.

I can afford to be patient with this replacement at least. The stock one shouldn't get stuck again now that I'm aware of it and now that I've removed one of the heatsinks, I'm getting consistent resistance readings(0.211 Ohms Live resistance, locked at 0.216 Ohms for now), even after removing the atty. As long as I'm careful when screwing it back into the mod/heatsink(secure but finger tight only). Failing to do so, normally means I have to reseat the screw to get it at just the right tightness without being overtight. I suspect the contact screw not being seated perfectly(after removing the atty), is the reason for the occasions where after weeks of being fine, I'd suddenly get prompts every other day to set the resistance again. For a loose screw, it's probably due to slightly tightening/loosening/nudging the attomiser during normal use which moves the screw slightly. For an overtight screw, who knows? But I was still getting resistance readings way out of the expected range and the same problem of prompts to reset the resistance every other day. At least, that's what I think I've worked out was happening. I should probably have gave it a few weeks of use before making final conclusions but so far so good. Sorry if this last part was long winded, but maybe it could save someone else the same frustrations I was having, not knowing what was happening with the impcog. It really was catching me off guard, weeks of being fine(letting my guard down) and then the next week combusting out of nowhere or having to put the temp up way high, to get any vapour at all.

 

[havewill1]

I wish I had gotten into vapes when mistvape was around, i guess ill just wait till someone wants to get rid of one

 

[SilvaVapor]

So, I've tried two different silicone O-Rings with a 2.5MM CS. 14mm ID and 13mm ID, both of which were too big, to my disappointment. The 13mm was surprising, as that should have gave it a 18mm OD(same as stock). Perhaps this is because the o-ring is thicker and doesn't sit quite as far back as the 2mm CS stock one.

The solution I had, was to cut the ring in one place, then push the ring into the groove all the way around, as far as I could go. Starting from the opposite side of the cut. One end of the ring was pushed in flush, to overlap the other end and judge by eye how much to trim off. I should have probably taken a marker to get it as close as possible because I trimmed too much and ended up having to use a piece of the excess(which also had to be trimmed) to plug the gap.

The result is ok but not the most elegant one. It's not really noticeable unless you're looking for a seam where the ends meet, but knowing it's there still annoys me . The fitting on the glass is very tight now, perhaps slightly overtight. I'm not sure it's worth trying any more sizes of O-Rings, unless I find a real problem with it.

I was looking at either a 2mm CS with a 17mm OD(13mm ID) or a 2.5mm CS with a 17mm OD(12mm ID). The more I thought about it though, both of those could be the wrong size for various reasons. Too loose or too tight. I might revisit it at a later date but I'm bored of tinkering with it for now, in the quest for the perfect fit.

Slightly overtight is ok for now and it might wear in over time. I suppose I will have to be careful when inserting and removing the stem until that happens. Drawing from it seems better now, it's pulling more air into the holes on the sides of the impcog(which is more air being pulled over the coils), feels a tighter draw too obviously.

It's still worth doing if you have wobble on your stem IMO because it feels like there's supposed to be a seal on the outside of the stem, for optimal performance. I haven't included links because those O-Rings seem quite common. Search: Silicone VMQ O-Rings on ebay or aliexpress, put the desired CS(cross section) into the search too and you'll get plenty of results.