Discontinued Impcognito

SilvaVapor

Active Member
Sounds like you are referring to wattage/power mode, where you simply set appropriate wattage, press the fire button, and draw (most box mods using stock firmware will auto shutoff at 10secs, but not all). I’ve never had a need to mess with any settings when using it in wattage/power mode.
Sorry, I've edited that post, I didn't read the question properly. Could you please read the edit and see if it's clearer? Basically, on demand can be temp control or wattage mode. It's less about the setup and more how you use it.

@CanikUser19 Also, sorry if I'm misinterpreting you but to be clear: Auto-Fire is a feature (of Artic Fox/Red Panda in my case) where you can assign it to a double click and set a shut off time in the advanced settings. This is so you don't have to hold the button down once you've triggered it with the double click(hands free). I have mine set to stop after 15 seconds but I believe it can be set for up to 60 seconds at a time. I find this useful for when you want to use a bubbler/hydrotube.
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
@CanikUser19 Also, sorry if I'm misinterpreting you but to be clear: Auto-Fire is a feature (of Artic Fox/Red Panda in my case) where you can assign it to a double click and set a shut off time in the advanced settings. This is so you don't have to hold the button down once you've triggered it with the double click. I have mine set to stop after 15 seconds but I believe it can be set for up to 60 seconds at a time. I find this useful for when you want to use a bubbler/hydrotube.
Yes I’m aware of the AF/RP auto-fire functionality. I wasn’t referring to that at all, just the OEM mod software fire button capabilities/limitations. I think I understand where you were going with your on-demand reference now. Thank you.
 

4everpushingaboulder

Well-Known Member
@CanikUser19 Also, sorry if I'm misinterpreting you but to be clear: Auto-Fire is a feature (of Artic Fox/Red Panda in my case) where you can assign it to a double click and set a shut off time in the advanced settings. This is so you don't have to hold the button down once you've triggered it with the double click(hands free). I have mine set to stop after 15 seconds but I believe it can be set for up to 60 seconds at a time. I find this useful for when you want to use a bubbler/hydrotube.
I think the confusion is that many of us use the autofire without a time limit. Two clicks to start. Then one to stop when I’m done with the draw.
 
4everpushingaboulder,

SilvaVapor

Active Member
I think the confusion is that many of us use the autofire without a time limit. Two clicks to start. Then one to stop when I’m done with the draw.
So you can stop the auto-fire once it's started? Fair enough, I wasn't aware of that. I'm sure I tried that when it was combusting before though, so assumed you couldn't override it. :lol:

Just the last word on the 'on-demand' phrase. I understerstand people sometimes call things what they like but I had read about it elsewhere before I started using the term. Here is an example:
https://urbanistic.ca/blogs/news/session-vs-on-demand-vaping

So it's 'session vaping' where your chamber is getting more constant heat, whether you're drawing from it or not(probably closest to how I use the DC Gen2). Or On-Demand, where it's only being heated for the time you're drawing from it.

Sorry for the double posting yesterday mods, I didn't realise that was frowned upon. I wanted to say something else so I will leave that here.

A quick update, I joined the divine tribes discord to track down that 14mm adapter glass tip. They do sell that separately if anyone's interested:


$8 + shipping. It's still overpriced for such a small bit of glass IMO, I was hoping to find it on aliexpress or ebay but found nothing.
As I said, it will work in the original impcog short glass stem but you will have to add an o-ring underneath the existing one. I might even try and look for a thicker o-ring to make the connection firmer. I think I'd rather go this route than buy the WPA arizer stem personally. I should be able to add some 6mm glass balls for cooling, to the original short stem now.

Lastly, I have a few of questions.

1: How often do the coils normally need replacing and when will I know when it is time?
2: Has anyone found a place to buy some compatible pre-built coils online? Failing that, the correct wire to build your own? I've never built any coils before but if that's the only option I will have to learn, I guess. From reading this thread, I gathered: 26/30ga SS316 is the wire, 2.5 mm ID with 6 wraps is what I'd need for pre-built coils.

3: Less important but the wooden tips, are there any alternatives that are still in production that will fit?
 
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SilvaVapor,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So you can stop the auto-fire once it's started? Fair enough, I wasn't aware of that. I'm sure I tried that when it was combusting before though, so assumed you couldn't override it. :lol:

Just the last word on the 'on-demand' phrase. I understerstand people sometimes call things what they like but I had read about it elsewhere before I started using the term. Here is an example:
https://urbanistic.ca/blogs/news/session-vs-on-demand-vaping

So it's 'session vaping' where your chamber is getting more constant heat, whether you're drawing from it or not(probably closest to how I use the DC Gen2). Or On-Demand, where it's only being heated for the time you're drawing from it.

Well yeah that's not entirely true, on demand just means you have the control when it's creating the vapor, it could still be conduction so it's heating cooking the weed even if you don't inhale, but it's only doing so if you press the button telling it to manually not automatically? So yeah more pure convection is on demand because it requires you inhaling through it as well, but this is why there is a lot of hybrid vapes now too...

Sorry for the double posting yesterday mods, I didn't realise that was frowned upon. I wanted to say something else so I will leave that here.

You can edit your posts, for up to 6 hours or so, to avoid back-to-back posting by the way, you can also quote posts, multiple posts, to reply to all at once, instead of multiple reply posts :tup:

Lastly, I have a few of questions.

1: How often do the coils normally need replacing and when will I know when it is time?

If you are not making them glow, with proper setup temp control, they should last a very long time and not need replacing, but you can look up how to tell by looking at a coil?

2: Has anyone found a place to buy some compatible pre-built coils online? Failing that, the correct wire to build your own? I've never built any coils before but if that's the only option I will have to learn, I guess. From reading this thread, I gathered: 26/30ga SS316 is the wire, 2.5 mm ID with 6 wraps is what I'd need for pre-built coils.

I think he used a standard Clapton coil, I don't think he built them himself, so they must be available from somewhere??

3: Less important but the wooden tips, are there any alternatives that are still in production that will fit?

You mean the wooden mouthpieces to fit inside glass stem with o-ring? You can talk to the rogue wax works to see if he can make you one to fit these stems, otherwise you could try to reach out to Dave himself on Instagram if he has any left?
 

SilvaVapor

Active Member
Well yeah that's not entirely true, on demand just means you have the control when it's creating the vapor, apes now too...
Aren't you still in control of when your heat is on or off with session vaping? It's more like a light switch as urbanistic says, it will stay on until you turn it off or the timer runs out but you're still in control. I've already said it's a bit like manual vs automatic to simplify it(less about the set up, more about how you physically use it). I'd also say on-demand is more like a quick-instant hit and session vaping is more like, wait until the time is right to draw from it. We're not really in disagreement on most of this, by the looks of it. :)

it could still be conduction so it's heating cooking the weed even if you don't inhale, but it's only doing so if you press the button telling it to manually not automatically? So yeah more pure convection is on demand because it requires you inhaling through it as well, but this is why there is a lot of hybrid vapes now too
Oh, I'm well aware conduction can be used in that way. As you alluded to, it's easy to see which is more suited to which. You could have the heat source going constantly with a convection but it's battery wasted. With the experience I've had with my conduction vape, you'd have to bump the temperature up high to use it on-demand in my opinion. That typically results with more charring of the bits near the heat source before the middle parts have been vapourized much(unless you stir it between each draw I suppose but who does that?). I suppose there are much better conduction vapes than the one I have, but it seems better to temp control, have it pre-heat before you start drawing from it and leaving it running for a cycle every time you draw from it. Which sounds a lot like the session vaping example in the source I gave.

I think he used a standard Clapton coil, I don't think he built them himself, so they must be available from somewhere??
I have looked but maybe I'm getting too hung up on the exact type of wire used in the original coils, do you think? That seems to be the problem. 26/30ag wasn't stocked for pre-built or for the wire, in the places I've looked. I suppose it might be a more general question: What is a good substitute for 26/30ag wire? I'll try asking that elsewhere.

You mean the wooden mouthpieces to fit inside glass stem with o-ring? You can talk to the rogue wax works to see if he can make you one to fit these stems, otherwise you could try to reach out to Dave himself on Instagram if he has any left?
Ok thanks for the heads up, that's good to know. As I said, that one was less important, I will stick with the glass adapter tip for now but just wanted to know for future reference.

Thanks for the reply. :tup:
 
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SilvaVapor,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Aren't you still in control of when your heat is on or off with session vaping? It's more like a light switch as urbanistic says, it will stay on until you turn it off or the timer runs out but you're still in control. I've already said it's a bit like manual vs automatic to simplify it(less about the set up, more about how you physically use it). I'd also say on-demand is more like a quick-instant hit and session vaping is more like, wait until the time is right to draw from it. We're not really in disagreement on most of this, by the looks of it. :)

Yeah it is mostly semantics, I consider manual and automatic a different type of category, for example pure convection on demand is very manual with Milaana and pure convection on demand is very automatic with Bowle... Imp is probably somewhere in between! There's also the on-demand pure conduction MFLB, it will cook your herbs whether you inhale or not, like dynavap too, and then a session style pure convection would be like a equilibrium desktop although in use they are kind of on demand, I think minivap is one of the few pure convection session devices...

Oh, I'm well aware conduction can be used in that way. As you alluded to, it's easy to see which is more suited to which. You could have the heat source going constantly with a convection but it's battery wasted.

Yeah this is like using auto fire, it is better to think of it just like it is holding the button down for you, that's why I am typically then tapping the button again to exit the auto fire.

With the experience I've had with my conduction vape, you'd have to bump the temperature up high to use it on-demand in my opinion. That typically results with more charring of the bits near the heat source before the middle parts have been vapourized much(unless you stir it between each draw I suppose but who does that?). I suppose there are much better conduction vapes than the one I have, but it seems better to temp control, have it pre-heat before you start drawing from it and leaving it running for a cycle every time you draw from it. Which sounds a lot like the session vaping example in the source I gave.

Yeah so that is more typical classic session conduction, but they're not all like that, and with hybrid heating tech, it's hard to speak universally. Using the firewood 7 really makes you rethink prior conceived notions about ceramic chamber conduction vaping...

Also I consider heat up itself a separate category, not all on demand vapes are instant, and some session vapes can be near instant heat up...

I have looked but maybe I'm getting too hung up on the exact type of wire used in the original coils, do you think? That seems to be the problem. 26/30ag wasn't stocked for pre-built or for the wire, in the places I've looked. I suppose it might be a more general question: What is a good substitute for 26/30ag wire? I'll try asking that elsewhere.

Yeah sorry I don't know, your best bet is just to contact him on Instagram, or maybe he will pop in here eventually, if he didn't post it somewhere in the threads specifically?? There are other vapes like this though that use these kind of coils like stem pod and maybe they can also help provide good coil alternatives...

Ok thanks for the heads up, that's good to know. As I said, that one was less important, I will stick with the glass adapter tip for now but just wanted to know for future reference.

Thanks for the reply. :tup:

It's such a shame my imp WPA chamber cracked, been a long time since I've used it... No problem, enjoy the new toy, quite a product it's a shame it couldn't sustain! Fuckin PACT
 
So, exactly how hard should we try to avoid coil glow? I'm tuned in to clear a bowl in 1 hit, but I have a bit of glow.

I know we're not doctors or anything.
 
bulletron3000,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So, exactly how hard should we try to avoid coil glow? I'm tuned in to clear a bowl in 1 hit, but I have a bit of glow.

I know we're not doctors or anything.

You can look it up, but I think the idea is when the coil glows, it is changing the metal, so the more it is glowing, the more it will, and could potentially off gas and fully damage needing replacement... I think it is pretty thick steel wire, so that could take a while, but ideally you really should set up temp control to avoid the glow... :2c::tup:
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
So, exactly how hard should we try to avoid coil glow? I'm tuned in to clear a bowl in 1 hit, but I have a bit of glow.

I know we're not doctors or anything.
TCR? Wattage? Well, in TCR I'm sure you can do it without glowing...It can take 1-3 seconds more than Wattage, but it shouldn't glow... what are your settings?
 

TeaCup

Well-Known Member
Discovered just now that my OEM Airizer Solo2 WPAs fit one of my Impcognitos. Assumed otherwise because I never tried it on this one after they were too big for my other Impcognito.
What wood is that on your Imp, it doesn't look like anything Dave sold?? I've also tried the same thing and mine are a hair too big on one, and half a hair on my other Imp. I really wish I coulda gotten an Imp in the Snakewood he offered before he stopped.
 
TeaCup,

Ipe17

Well-Known Member
Airizer solo WPAs are too big for my 2 impcognitos, like TeaCup´s.

however, for wpa I use a Divine tribe silicon tip which fits nicely on the short glass stem
 
Ipe17,

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
What wood is that on your Imp, it doesn't look like anything Dave sold?? I've also tried the same thing and mine are a hair too big on one, and half a hair on my other Imp. I really wish I coulda gotten an Imp in the Snakewood he offered before he stopped.
Both of mine are bocote wood (it’s the wood shown on the first post of this thread). Yeah I was totally surprised the Airizer WPA fit, I’ve had them for a long time but just never tried them on this particular Impcognito after them not working on my other one. Was just farting around and going through my glass last night and gave it a try. Outside of my Ed’s Solo2 WPA, I could never get any of my non-MV stems to fit.

Decided to try the 3D Flow stem this morning, and what do you know.
 
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SilvaVapor

Active Member
I threw 6 of those glass balls in my short stem with divine tribe glass tip. Works fine like that. Got a refund(minus shipping) on the Arizer stem I ordered, so I feel a little better about that mistake.

Tried to order a thicker o-ring(viton high temp), to replace the divine tribes stock one on the glass tip. I measured the stock o-ring by eye at: ID 5.5mm, OD 8.5mm, giving a cross section thickness of 1.5mm(because 5.5mm + (1.5mm*2) = 8.5mm). Seems, I over estimated the cross section thickness I needed, as it wont fit the stem at all with a 3mm cross section o-ring on. It doesn't make sense to return them because the postage is half of the cost. I might try and message the ebay seller to see if they will let me order a range of cross section thicknesses, so I can get the best fit, without being shafted on postage.

I don't know why but although I think I have my settings right and I don't have to worry about combusting any more. I don't seem to be getting much vapour from my impcog(compared to my DC Gen2). I can taste it but I can't even see any vapour when I breathe out and I don't feel like I'm getting the effect I should be either, after several draws.

The temperature control seems to be as good as I can get it to perform without having glowing coils and I feel the stem getting hot. It could be a number of factors:

1) I put a lot less herb in the impcog, with the shallow basket,
2) Maybe I'm not raising the temp high enough,
3) Maybe the coils need replacing, since this was second hand and I have no idea how the previous owner was using it. Or indeed, what the stock performance of the impcognito is supposed to be like.

I haven't ordered any new coils yet, as I'm still struggling to find a good match.

One seller(sent him a picture of the ones installed with the specs) suggested some clapton ss316L coils with a 3mm Inner Diameter on them, 6 wraps, 2 core fused, 28+28/38ga, 0.38ohms

Unsure whether to give those a try or not. The inner diameter is supposed to be 2.5mm and the wire is a different gauge but he doesn't think it should be a problem.

Anyone think I should just go for it? Or anyone have any other suggestions? I know they aren't that expensive but I hate waste, would rather just buy once and get it right the first time.
 
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Mribisback_

Well-Known Member
I threw 6 of those glass balls in my short stem with divine tribe glass tip. Works fine like that. Got a refund(minus shipping) on the Arizer stem I ordered, so I feel a little better about that mistake.

Tried to order a thicker o-ring(viton high temp), to replace the divine tribes stock one on the glass tip. I measured the stock o-ring by eye at: ID 5.5mm, OD 8.5mm, giving a cross section thickness of 1.5mm(because 5.5mm + (1.5mm*2) = 8.5mm). Seems, I over estimated the cross section thickness I needed, as it wont fit the stem at all with a 3mm cross section o-ring on. It doesn't make sense to return them because the postage is half of the cost. I might try and message the ebay seller to see if they will let me order a range of cross section thicknesses, so I can get the best fit, without being shafted on postage.

I don't know why but although I think I have my settings right and I don't have to worry about combusting any more. I don't seem to be getting much vapour from my impcog(compared to my DC Gen2). I can taste it but I can't even see any vapour when I breathe out and I don't feel like I'm getting the effect I should be either, after several draws.

The temperature control seems to be as good as I can get it to perform without having glowing coils and I feel the stem getting hot. It could be a number of factors:

1) I put a lot less herb in the impcog, with the shallow basket,
2) Maybe I'm not raising the temp high enough,
3) Maybe the coils need replacing, since this was second hand and I have no idea how the previous owner was using it. Or indeed, what the stock performance of the impcognito is supposed to be like.

I haven't ordered any new coils yet, as I'm still struggling to find a good match.

One seller(sent him a picture of the ones installed with the specs) suggested some clapton ss316L coils with a 3mm Inner Diameter on them, 6 wraps, 2 core fused, 28+28/38ga, 0.38ohms

Unsure whether to give those a try or not. The inner diameter is supposed to be 2.5mm and the wire is a different gauge but he doesn't think it should be a problem.

Anyone think I should just go for it? Or anyone have any other suggestions? I know they aren't that expensive but I hate waste, would rather just buy once and get it right the first time.
Stock is ~.25ohms so those should heat a little faster, but they'll glow more easily also.

I've found you can make just about anything work. I had some really thin 316 wire laying around. I didn't want to order anything else so I just grabbed 5 strands of that and twisted them together with a drill. I like it more than the stock! .12 ohms so it takes a good bit of power, but man it can really pump out vapor.
 

Ipe17

Well-Known Member
I threw 6 of those glass balls in my short stem with divine tribe glass tip. Works fine like that. Got a refund(minus shipping) on the Arizer stem I ordered, so I feel a little better about that mistake.

Tried to order a thicker o-ring(viton high temp), to replace the divine tribes stock one on the glass tip. I measured the stock o-ring by eye at: ID 5.5mm, OD 8.5mm, giving a cross section thickness of 1.5mm(because 5.5mm + (1.5mm*2) = 8.5mm). Seems, I over estimated the cross section thickness I needed, as it wont fit the stem at all with a 3mm cross section o-ring on. It doesn't make sense to return them because the postage is half of the cost. I might try and message the ebay seller to see if they will let me order a range of cross section thicknesses, so I can get the best fit, without being shafted on postage.

I don't know why but although I think I have my settings right and I don't have to worry about combusting any more. I don't seem to be getting much vapour from my impcog(compared to my DC Gen2). I can taste it but I can't even see any vapour when I breathe out and I don't feel like I'm getting the effect I should be either, after several draws.

The temperature control seems to be as good as I can get it to perform without having glowing coils and I feel the stem getting hot. It could be a number of factors:

1) I put a lot less herb in the impcog, with the shallow basket,
2) Maybe I'm not raising the temp high enough,
3) Maybe the coils need replacing, since this was second hand and I have no idea how the previous owner was using it. Or indeed, what the stock performance of the impcognito is supposed to be like.

I haven't ordered any new coils yet, as I'm still struggling to find a good match.

One seller(sent him a picture of the ones installed with the specs) suggested some clapton ss316L coils with a 3mm Inner Diameter on them, 6 wraps, 2 core fused, 28+28/38ga, 0.38ohms

Unsure whether to give those a try or not. The inner diameter is supposed to be 2.5mm and the wire is a different gauge but he doesn't think it should be a problem.

Anyone think I should just go for it? Or anyone have any other suggestions? I know they aren't that expensive but I hate waste, would rather just buy once and get it right the first time.
air holes position? is the only thing I could think of. It makes a big difference
 

TeaCup

Well-Known Member
Decided to try the 3D Flow stem this morning
Well yours must be like a mm larger than mine, cause I also tried that stem too, lol, but JUST a hair too big! Yeah, taking a closer look I now see that yours is the same as mine, Bocote, but yours has way more "character" than mine. Mines a little "too" perfect looking.

Or indeed, what the stock performance of the impcognito is supposed to be like.
No, that is not what stock performance is like. It's not a heavy hitter, but I have no problem getting very dense clouds from it. The only thing I'll say is this, you need to keep screwing around with your TCR settings. But it also goes without saying that you should probably figure out if your coils are good. Even though I have my Imp dialed in, I personally find TCR mode fairly difficult to get dialed in. Alot of people feel the opposite, that TCR is easier, so to each his own. I just felt you need to get two variables dialed in correctly instead of just one with wattage mode. Figure out your coils first, and then just hunker down and start mad testing different numbers together, the Imp absolutely will put out plenty of steam!!
 

SilvaVapor

Active Member
air holes position? is the only thing I could think of. It makes a big difference
Funny you should say that, that's exactly what I tweaked yesterday. I had put the cap back on so the air holes were parallel to the coils(end to end). I moved the air holes so they were perpendicular(side on) with the coils and it seems better now.

The first hit, I can see the vapour, I cant really see it with the draws after that. I think that might be the temperature I'm using (370F), it could even be the herb I'm using and how much I'm putting in, I suppose. The herb does seem to be browning much better though, so I know it's working better like this. I can see it browns much more evenly and consistently than my conduction vape, without having to stir.

I can see it's a great little atomizer, I just want to make sure I'm getting the best out of it. Glad I picked it up. :)

I've noticed some peoples Imps seem very shiny, are you putting beeswax on them or something?
 
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SilvaVapor,
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Ipe17

Well-Known Member
Funny you should say that, that's exactly what I tweaked yesterday. I had put the cap back on so the air holes were parallel to the coils(end to end). I moved the air holes so they were perpendicular(side on) with the coils and it seems better now.

The first hit, I can see the vapour, I cant really see it with the draws after that. I think that might be the temperature I'm using (370F), it could even be the herb I'm using and how much I'm putting in, I suppose. The herb does seem to be browning much better though, so I know it's working better like this. I can see it browns much more evenly and consistently than my conduction vape, without having to stir.

I can see it's a great little atomizer, I just want to make sure I'm getting the best out of it. Glad I picked it up. :)

I've noticed some peoples Imps seem very shiny, are you putting beeswax on them or something?
when I feel lack of performance is either battery or airholes.

Funny thing is I changed coils in one of my impcognitos to flat SS coils and with those coils the impcognito works beter with airholes parallel to the coils. And I think I prefer performance this way with these flat coils
 

CanikUser19

Trenchtown Rock
All my wood vapes get regular coats of food safe cutting board wax. I use Walrus Oil found on Amazon but there are lots of varieties.

Alll made with some combo of food grade mineral oil and beeswax.
I’m in the opposite camp, I rarely wax my wood vapes. In fact, the Impcognito I posted above has never seen any wax or conditioners in over two years (probably the lighting/flash that makes it look glossy). I do run whole house humidification, and a dehumidifier when needed. Lots of wood in the house including wood floors, very little care given and all continue to look and feel good. The only drying I ever see on my vapes are the stems where my lips make contact, so I condition those occasionally.
 
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TeaCup

Well-Known Member
In fact, the Impcognito I posted above has never seen any wax or conditioners in over two years (probably the lighting/flash that makes it look glossy).
My Bocote Imp'nito is the same, it looks more polished and shiny without wax than any of my other wood vapes by a wide wide margin.

I think that might be the temperature I'm using (370F)
Damn I'm dumb, I definitely shoulda asked what temp. None of my vapes have ever even sniffed 370, lol.
 
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