PDwasmy1st
Well-Known Member
Hi, does anyone know where to purchse an IMP from, I've seasrched high and low and found nothing but people talking about it 
Hope someone can help me, thanks
Hope someone can help me, thanks
Discontinued Impcognito
- Thread starter mistvaporizer
- Start date
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I think we're pretty guaranteed he will never make any more unless they change stupid PACT laws... Killed this one unfortunately
Hi, does anyone know where to purchse an IMP from, I've seasrched high and low and found nothing but people talking about it
Hope someone can help me, thanks
All you can really do is post here in the classifieds and entexchange discord and reddit frientexchange they were looking for one used... Good luck!
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
But then how are other US makers doing? And apparently, foreign vapes like the TM are still being imported and sold on the US market, so there has to be a way nope? And what about all those Chinese e-cigs and mods?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I am saying the way is to jump through a bunch of hoops, look at Marc only accepting checks for the FW8, Dave specifically said previously that it was the PACT killing mistvape. It was all geared towards vape and e-cig categorization, even the parts, he was not going to be able to accept payment or send shipments anymore (this was on top of deciding to move cross country, he may be able to tinker and offer something new in the future, and/or maybe some accessories too, but mistvape and the imp are done)
PDwasmy1st
Well-Known Member
I don't buy used or anything without gaurentee and not if it's anywhere on planet earth apart from UK since we have these sick horrid nasty charges the brexiters gave us, thanks though
what bugs me personally i think all vapes are a con, there should only be 510 screw in's then we can update our mods like to 21700 batteries and so on, but these new splinter like ones have coils, why can't there be a steady flow of splinter like ones made, anyone? you'd be the biggest seller world wide
I have a Tinymight, it's great for an hour, then they go and make another still using 1 18650 dated battery for £300 what a joke
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
This doesn't really seem on topic at all, I don't think having an 18650 battery is a joke at all, I much prefer it, because I already have several... I would hate to have to buy a new batteries for a new device, no complaints about the battery life with the existing cells I use and it is easy to swap them and charge them externally anyway... That's what I do with all my 510 mod based vapes as well. StemPod is the most simple one available at the lowest price, it is popular, but far from the biggest seller worldwide... I think you overestimate the appeal of these vapes to the average stoner? Can always DIY too...
metalgearweedeater
Active Member
Edstnt 14mm stem works well with the impcognito, bearing in mind that it is quite long and requires you to hold your device at all times when you use it as a WPA. I like how much I can fit in this thing however and it's functionality is great. My first 510 vape setup was this, the vaponaute petite box (can't recommend it more, though the atomizer clearance is limited to 22mm from what I recall) and the impcognito. Gonna spend some time dialing the TCR in further, as I've always been unsure about the profiles I'm using currently. Anyway, I'm going off on a tangent, I've just been meaning to post here and saw this reply.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
I would r
50mm works fine. 100mm and 200mm+ available on the same link(5pieces per order).
80mm works well too if you like it a little cooler. 40mm and 120mm available on the same link(10 pieces per order).
I find the 50mm is perfect if you have a bubbler/water tube(a must IMO, if you like to finish the bowl on a high temp). It's more compact, the 40mm would be best if you only use it with a bubbler/hydratube I suppose.
General Update
This is my full setup and all I need for now personally(except for some spare shallow baskets, anyone found any like for like replacements?), I'm quite pleased with it:
I'll provide links which are all working if any of it takes anyone's fancy, especially since Ali's search function seems useless these days(glad I kept the links).
I use 8 borosilicate glass balls, with a shallow basket at either end to keep them snug. The herb basket is seated about a 1/2 inch from the end of the tube. The stopper basket goes on last, when placing the pieces in. Easy enough if you have a good tamper tool handy(I made my own).
When I finish off a bowl, I pop in the Divine Tribes 14mm male glass adapter, with the o-ring replaced with a slightly thicker one(5.5 ID 2.5mm CS). Then pop on the Hubble Bubble hydratube and bump the temp up to 500F or more until it's nice and brown.
This is my go to Red Panda/Artic Fox profile setting:
It's been left on that profile for months, all I do is change the temp(usually start at 360F, increasing by 20-30F) as I need it. I'm not sure how helpful this will be for beginners or not but here is my redpanda config file anyway:
Impcognito - RedPanda Config (The above is under IMPOG1 now, on that config file)
Alternatively, if you hold the power button and press the up/right button, you can change all the profile options in the menu that comes up there.
PS - If your stem has wobble and has air escaping as you draw, it's well worth replacing the o-ring on the Impcog unit(discussed earlier in the thread).
Original O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm Ebay(Size: 14mm ID X 2mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm)
Tighter Fit O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 13mm Ebay(Size: 13mm ID X 2.5mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 13.2mm)
Shame he's not still making them but I thought I'd share for those who still use it or pick it up second hand.
I would recommend the generic 14mm OD High borosilicate glass tubes I found on Ali.
50mm works fine. 100mm and 200mm+ available on the same link(5pieces per order).
80mm works well too if you like it a little cooler. 40mm and 120mm available on the same link(10 pieces per order).
I find the 50mm is perfect if you have a bubbler/water tube(a must IMO, if you like to finish the bowl on a high temp). It's more compact, the 40mm would be best if you only use it with a bubbler/hydratube I suppose.
General Update
This is my full setup and all I need for now personally(except for some spare shallow baskets, anyone found any like for like replacements?), I'm quite pleased with it:
I'll provide links which are all working if any of it takes anyone's fancy, especially since Ali's search function seems useless these days(glad I kept the links).
I use 8 borosilicate glass balls, with a shallow basket at either end to keep them snug. The herb basket is seated about a 1/2 inch from the end of the tube. The stopper basket goes on last, when placing the pieces in. Easy enough if you have a good tamper tool handy(I made my own).
When I finish off a bowl, I pop in the Divine Tribes 14mm male glass adapter, with the o-ring replaced with a slightly thicker one(5.5 ID 2.5mm CS). Then pop on the Hubble Bubble hydratube and bump the temp up to 500F or more until it's nice and brown.
This is my go to Red Panda/Artic Fox profile setting:
It's been left on that profile for months, all I do is change the temp(usually start at 360F, increasing by 20-30F) as I need it. I'm not sure how helpful this will be for beginners or not but here is my redpanda config file anyway:
Impcognito - RedPanda Config (The above is under IMPOG1 now, on that config file)
Alternatively, if you hold the power button and press the up/right button, you can change all the profile options in the menu that comes up there.
PS - If your stem has wobble and has air escaping as you draw, it's well worth replacing the o-ring on the Impcog unit(discussed earlier in the thread).
Original O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm Ebay(Size: 14mm ID X 2mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm)
Tighter Fit O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 13mm Ebay(Size: 13mm ID X 2.5mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 13.2mm)
Shame he's not still making them but I thought I'd share for those who still use it or pick it up second hand.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Did you set your resistance based on the cold read resistance of your Impcog, or did you use .219 because it just works for you? My cold read on my Impcog is only .179 or so, that’s why I’m asking. Good to have someone else’s config files to play with though, thank you.I would r
I would recommend the generic 14mm OD High borosilicate glass tubes I found on Ali.
50mm works fine. 100mm and 200mm+ available on the same link(5pieces per order).
80mm works well too if you like it a little cooler. 40mm and 120mm available on the same link(10 pieces per order).
I find the 50mm is perfect if you have a bubbler/water tube(a must IMO, if you like to finish the bowl on a high temp). It's more compact, the 40mm would be best if you only use it with a bubbler/hydratube I suppose.
General Update
This is my full setup and all I need for now personally(except for some spare shallow baskets, anyone found any like for like replacements?), I'm quite pleased with it:
I'll provide links which are all working if any of it takes anyone's fancy, especially since Ali's search function seems useless these days(glad I kept the links).
I use 8 borosilicate glass balls, with a shallow basket at either end to keep them snug. The herb basket is seated about a 1/2 inch from the end of the tube. The stopper basket goes on last, when placing the pieces in. Easy enough if you have a good tamper tool handy(I made my own).
When I finish off a bowl, I pop in the Divine Tribes 14mm male glass adapter, with the o-ring replaced with a slightly thicker one(5.5 ID 2.5mm CS). Then pop on the Hubble Bubble hydratube and bump the temp up to 500F or more until it's nice and brown.
This is my go to Red Panda/Artic Fox profile setting:
It's been left on that profile for months, all I do is change the temp(usually start at 360F, increasing by 20-30F) as I need it. I'm not sure how helpful this will be for beginners or not but here is my redpanda config file anyway:
Impcognito - RedPanda Config (The above is under IMPOG1 now, on that config file)
Alternatively, if you hold the power button and press the up/right button, you can change all the profile options in the menu that comes up there.
PS - If your stem has wobble and has air escaping as you draw, it's well worth replacing the o-ring on the Impcog unit(discussed earlier in the thread).
Original O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm Ebay(Size: 14mm ID X 2mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 14mm)
Tighter Fit O-Ring Size: OD 18mm ID 13mm Ebay(Size: 13mm ID X 2.5mm CS) or Ali(Size: OD 18mm ID 13.2mm)
Shame he's not still making them but I thought I'd share for those who still use it or pick it up second hand.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
That seems a bit low for the stock coils. I noted down somewhere that 0.22 is what the resistance is supposed to be(probably read that somewhere on this thread), I'm not sure if that's the cold reading or the recommended resistance setting from mistvape/dave. I suggest you check the contact screw isn't over tight or too loose and check the reading again once it's seated nicely, just to be sure.
Anyway, the cold resistance I got on the NToolbox Device Manager was 0.211, on my setup. I added 0.005 to that at first(0.216) and made a few profiles with different TCR values starting at TCR 130. I found myself gravitating towards the TCR150 profile, the more I used the impcog and got used to it. Especially while drinking or longer sessions, it feels like it requires too much effort and concentration to get a good hit on the lower TCR values. Then I upped the resistance in 0.001 increments before settling on 0.219, which feels like the sweet spot for me.
Last I checked, I can bump the temp up to 520F on that profile and there's just a very feint glow on the coils at that point, which I'm happy with. I recommend making sure the cold reading is correct as I mentioned above, making sure the reading is consistent after you've removed and replaced the atty. Then add 0.005 and see how that works, if it's not enough go up in 0.001 increments until you find the sweet spot for your setup and drawing technique. Be sure to check for coil glow on whatever temp you normally max out a bowl at.
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
I’ll check the resistance on a few other AF and DNA mods this evening. That reading was from one of the cheaper dedicated wood grain looking Picos that I have, so maybe not the most reliable read. Thank you.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
A quick update about the config file: Although I've been using it myself at the weekend without any problems, when I cleaned up my config file before uploading(removing the profiles for other atties etc), the pi-reg settings didn't copy over to the profiles they replaced for some reason. So you will either have to update those PI Reg values manually(and enable PI Reg in IMPCOG1 also) or download the updated config file below instead and discard the first one I shared, which has been tweeked slightly since then.
I have been doing some more tinkering, having noticed that the resistance was changing when I removed the impcog from the heatsink. When the heatsink was removed, placing it back required me to push it into the mod and compress the spring before it would screw in. Which shouldn't be necessary. I solved that, by sawing off couple of milimetres off of the heatsink's contact screw. Now the Impcog doesn't push the heatsink's screw outwards to make room as I screw the Impcog in all the way down. So that's one less thing that can mess up my settings, hopefully.
After I did all that, the cold resistance was 0.211 as expected, but it felt like my coils were running too hot and I confirmed they were when I looked for coil glow and found it. So 0.219 appears too high after the alterations I made and so does TCR150. Even adding 0.005(0.216) seemed too much, so I dialed it all the way back to cold resistance and bumped the TCR down by 10. With the resistance set to 0.211 and TCR140, I only get a slight glow on my coils when I bump it up to 520F, same as before. It seems hot enough at this setting but I'll test it more later in the week and raise the resistance if it really needs it.
This shows how important it is to check your resistance is correct after making any alterations because it can alter the performance a lot. It probably also shows that everyone's will be slightly different, but it's worth spending time finding the right resistance for your setup and coils. If that's set correctly(along with the wattage and TCR values being the in the right range), the rest of the settings are harder to get wrong.
Here is the updated config file(perhaps a mod could update or delete the file share link from Saturdays post to avoid confusion?):
Mistvape Impcognito - RedPanda-cfg_24-10-2023
The PI Reg is enabled with the correct(slightly tweaked, I: 60 seems smoother) values this time. There's 3 different profiles, at 3 different TCR values(140, 135 and 120) and resistance settings(0.211, 0.215. 0.219), offering similar performance. I think that might be a better set of starting points for others to find what works best for them than the original config file.
I'd also make sure your batteries are fully charged and in good condition when you first set your resistance, as that can affect your readings too.
I have been doing some more tinkering, having noticed that the resistance was changing when I removed the impcog from the heatsink. When the heatsink was removed, placing it back required me to push it into the mod and compress the spring before it would screw in. Which shouldn't be necessary. I solved that, by sawing off couple of milimetres off of the heatsink's contact screw. Now the Impcog doesn't push the heatsink's screw outwards to make room as I screw the Impcog in all the way down. So that's one less thing that can mess up my settings, hopefully.
After I did all that, the cold resistance was 0.211 as expected, but it felt like my coils were running too hot and I confirmed they were when I looked for coil glow and found it. So 0.219 appears too high after the alterations I made and so does TCR150. Even adding 0.005(0.216) seemed too much, so I dialed it all the way back to cold resistance and bumped the TCR down by 10. With the resistance set to 0.211 and TCR140, I only get a slight glow on my coils when I bump it up to 520F, same as before. It seems hot enough at this setting but I'll test it more later in the week and raise the resistance if it really needs it.
This shows how important it is to check your resistance is correct after making any alterations because it can alter the performance a lot. It probably also shows that everyone's will be slightly different, but it's worth spending time finding the right resistance for your setup and coils. If that's set correctly(along with the wattage and TCR values being the in the right range), the rest of the settings are harder to get wrong.
Here is the updated config file(perhaps a mod could update or delete the file share link from Saturdays post to avoid confusion?):
Mistvape Impcognito - RedPanda-cfg_24-10-2023
The PI Reg is enabled with the correct(slightly tweaked, I: 60 seems smoother) values this time. There's 3 different profiles, at 3 different TCR values(140, 135 and 120) and resistance settings(0.211, 0.215. 0.219), offering similar performance. I think that might be a better set of starting points for others to find what works best for them than the original config file.
Worth a try, also connect it to a pc or laptop and use the NToolBox Device Monitor tool. That's what I use to read my cold resistance and live resistance, after having had it turned fully off for a while. I feel like that's a more accurate reading than on the device screen. Device Monitor allows you to monitor the live resistance while the device is in standby mode, so you can see the value it returns to after it's been heated up.
I'd also make sure your batteries are fully charged and in good condition when you first set your resistance, as that can affect your readings too.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
I tried it on 3 different DNA mods, had each one recheck cold resistance and they consistently read it at .18. I’ll check it on Device Monitor as well this evening just to confirm. I don’t use a heat sink with it, and it was one of the last off the assembly line before MV shuttered, so maybe a batch with lower resistance? I’ll try it on one of my Red Panda set ups as well.
You run it up to 520° for coil glow testing, what max temp do you vape it on? Thanks for the updated config files.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
Yeah, if you've checked the contact screw of the impcog and that looks ok, that's probably just what the resistance of your coils is. Dave may have found the exact coil gauge he used when he started harder to find in the last batch. I couldn't find any when I tried to get spares.
My max vaping temp is 520F. As I understand it, a feint glow(checking in low light) is sort of acceptable. I suppose you should decide yourself on that if you want to be super cautious about any health risks. I always use a bubbler to cool the vapour down when I get to the high 400s anyway.
I start at around 360F for the first few draws for the taste, I used to even use 340F with the old config file before I altered my setup but you have to put more effort into your technique at such temps obviously(deep long breaths and so on).
Then I bump the temperature up as I take more hits, starting with a 20F increase. For the rest I tend to guess how much of an increase it needs by how much vapour I'm getting. Sometimes I finish the bowl on 500F(I check the baket there to see what colour the herb is), it can vary based on how fast it's browning or not(and the flavour). My way of doing it might be too slow for some, I know some just like to get to the big hits straight away. So you might want to find your own starting point and max temp based on your own preference.
I just know the device monitor shows with my settings, it's a fairly fast but smooth ramp up to temperature, then it levels off nicely and stays fairly stable and close to the target temp as I draw from it. Nice smooth curves and straight lines, is what I like to see.
What would be nice, is if someone had an infra red temperature gadget or camera. So we can see the actual temps it's delivering with each setting. I'm happy enough with the performance of mine though, which I guess is good enough.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Spare coils or spare Imps? Yeah those max temps are way outta my comfort zone, but I stay on the low end with all of my vapes most of the time.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
Spare coils. I was trying to match the exact wire but nowhere seemed to have it, all out of stock.
Yeah that's fair enough. Like I said though, who knows what the real temp is. The mod is estimating the temp based on the settings you put in(changes in current/resistance etc). It's not combusting at 520F with my settings is all I know. I like having a lot of steps available from my starting point personally. The main thing you want to avoid is visibly/bright glowing coils which can give off harmful gases and age your coils. You should probably just finish in the 400s by the sounds of it either way, if you're using any of my created profiles.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
The live resistance at 520F is 0,285 ohm with all these 3 different settings.
400F for 140-0,211 has a live resistance of 0,265 Ohm.
0,265 ohm for 135-0,215 is 381F on the screen of the mod, for 120-0,219 is 384F.
With the same live resistance range in use, the temp on screen could be slightly different but you can definitely have consistent results.
Good job
SilvaVapor
Active Member
I had to get a new mod, after my Joyetech Espion developed a problem with the battery readings on one side. It's getting harder and harder to find Arcticfox compatible mods now, sadly. Thankfully, I managed to get a Pico 25 from France, for a decent price. It's only single battery but I'm pleased that I was able to use the Redpanda profiles from the Espion, by simply changing the file extension, just as I'd hoped.
It looks like next time, it will have to be one of the DNA, Quest 2.0 or Axon Chipset controlled mods, with no arctic fox. I've heard some of those make Arcticfox unnecessary(perform even better?), if you can get them for a decent price that is.
The only thing I had to change, was the resistance because the pico had a much lower reading on the coil. I set mine at 0.205Ohms. I always connect a new setup to PC/Laptop and check the readings that Device Monitor on NFE Tools/NToolbox picks up. The live resistance there(which was fluctuating slightly between 0.204 and 0.205Ohms for me) when the coil is fully cold/room temp, seems the most reliable/accurate.
So far so good though.
There's probably not many who can make use of this these days and I'm repeating myself a little but I'll share it clearly here anyway.
The config file again for anyone who wants it(old link gone):
https://www.mediafire.com/file/i269...Impcognito_-_ArticFox-cfg_12-09-2024.afc/file
Manual input of my most used profile:
Name: IMPCOG 1
Power: 35W
Resistance: 0.205(change this to whatever your coil reads on Device Manager)
Mode: Temp. Control
Pi Reg = Range: 77%, P Value: 420, I Value: 60
Coil Material: TCR 140
Temperature: 390F [OR 370-380F if you want the fresh bowl flavour to last for a few hits.]
Preheat Settings: All default except for - Preheat Delay: 5 sec
Whatever profile and resistance setting you settle on, it's worth checking for coil glow in a dark room at whatever temp you normally finish a bowl on(your chosen max temp). A barely visible glow should be fine IMO.
It looks like next time, it will have to be one of the DNA, Quest 2.0 or Axon Chipset controlled mods, with no arctic fox. I've heard some of those make Arcticfox unnecessary(perform even better?), if you can get them for a decent price that is.
The only thing I had to change, was the resistance because the pico had a much lower reading on the coil. I set mine at 0.205Ohms. I always connect a new setup to PC/Laptop and check the readings that Device Monitor on NFE Tools/NToolbox picks up. The live resistance there(which was fluctuating slightly between 0.204 and 0.205Ohms for me) when the coil is fully cold/room temp, seems the most reliable/accurate.
So far so good though.
There's probably not many who can make use of this these days and I'm repeating myself a little but I'll share it clearly here anyway.
The config file again for anyone who wants it(old link gone):
https://www.mediafire.com/file/i269...Impcognito_-_ArticFox-cfg_12-09-2024.afc/file
Manual input of my most used profile:
Name: IMPCOG 1
Power: 35W
Resistance: 0.205(change this to whatever your coil reads on Device Manager)
Mode: Temp. Control
Pi Reg = Range: 77%, P Value: 420, I Value: 60
Coil Material: TCR 140
Temperature: 390F [OR 370-380F if you want the fresh bowl flavour to last for a few hits.]
Preheat Settings: All default except for - Preheat Delay: 5 sec
Whatever profile and resistance setting you settle on, it's worth checking for coil glow in a dark room at whatever temp you normally finish a bowl on(your chosen max temp). A barely visible glow should be fine IMO.
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SilvaVapor
Active Member
Shame that.
Dreamwood Glow seems the closest to it.
I've never tried it though and the Glow 14 doesn't seem to be in stock, which leaves the larger Glow 18.
I'd still go for the Glow 18 provided it fits my mod, swapping out the kanthal coils for some SS316 ones should be pretty straight forward and you're good to go.
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Thanks for sharing this, I’ll set up a separate profile for my Impcog and compare. I went through a hoarding phase with AF/RP mods back during the great vape ban scare. Over the past 1.5 years I’ve gone full steam ahead with DNA mod acquisition. Because they now are capable of auto fire, and my preference for their build quality, DNA mods are now my preferred choice for mod hoarding.
It’s funny because I set up a RP mod just last night, a Ravage 230 that I had never powered on. Had to remind myself how to install RP. It’s the purplish iridescent color way, wanted to see how my purpleheart Custom Z would look on it (I think @Shit Snacks showed that combo way back when?) Happy with how it looks on that mod so I’ll definitely be keeping that mod now.