iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge
- Thread starter Alan
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- 510 convection on demand portable
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
It is large as a 18650 mod box, not an air larger than my cheap smoant charon tc218
i was getting hotspots too fast and too often, i played with settings but even in wattage mode i was getting them too easy.
What seems to improve my experience is not to hit as soon as you push button but to fire button (@30w ) for 1-2 secs max without sucking air through it, let button go and after 1 sec firing again while hitting: hotspots were reduced a lot already
Still room for improvements but already nice if you don’t mind stirring. i hate it so I hope i can get IH to extract 80%without stirring
i was getting hotspots too fast and too often, i played with settings but even in wattage mode i was getting them too easy.
What seems to improve my experience is not to hit as soon as you push button but to fire button (@30w ) for 1-2 secs max without sucking air through it, let button go and after 1 sec firing again while hitting: hotspots were reduced a lot already
Still room for improvements but already nice if you don’t mind stirring. i hate it so I hope i can get IH to extract 80%without stirring
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
lol huh?
25mm diameter for iHeat, as mentioned by Alan in last page or two of this thread...
Yea, my bad.
1" = 25mm.
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
It is getting better fast: pushing a little far away the screen (1cm further inside the stem) seems working good to reduce even more the hotspot. Now I have the same hotspot I have with logs without stirring: big and round in the middle (typical of 100%convection IME), this is good for me.
For the record at first I had a point black hotspot, after that a « c » shaped one, very dark brown, then a brown ring shaped one with green in the middle (this was curious)
Best responding TC on my smoant charon is the NI one, tcr 280 shows temps under 100 while giving hotspots, but still not even close to TC.
playing rather with wattage mode: @28w, 1-2 secs without hitting, release button half second and fire again while hitting for 4-5 secs is what gives me best results for now (with glass smaller stem)
It is kind of harsh to direct inhale, i can get a bowl this way but I prefer through a j hook or a glass honey straw. Have to precise that as I hate stirring I also dislike direct draw with my logs or any vape that rely mainly on convection (too much hot air)
Will try through water soon.
For the record at first I had a point black hotspot, after that a « c » shaped one, very dark brown, then a brown ring shaped one with green in the middle (this was curious)
Best responding TC on my smoant charon is the NI one, tcr 280 shows temps under 100 while giving hotspots, but still not even close to TC.
playing rather with wattage mode: @28w, 1-2 secs without hitting, release button half second and fire again while hitting for 4-5 secs is what gives me best results for now (with glass smaller stem)
It is kind of harsh to direct inhale, i can get a bowl this way but I prefer through a j hook or a glass honey straw. Have to precise that as I hate stirring I also dislike direct draw with my logs or any vape that rely mainly on convection (too much hot air)
Will try through water soon.
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Thanks @Bravesst. The iHeat 510 cartridge has been an option for those on the waiting list since this summer. About the only change from the initial prototypes was to reduce the diameter from 1” to 25mm so they would fit onto a Witcher box. Just using the o-rings that come with the 510 deck to hold it into the wood has been working really well. Holds it well enough to resist turning forces, but the wood can still be removed as necessary. Lil’ Bud is looking very nice. Each one a work of wooden art. A fitting housing for the large surface area spiral coil heater. A testament to your skills as a wood worker and enthusiasum to always improve. Lil’ Bud is a welcome addition to the vaporizer world. Won't be long and it will be in the portables too.
@PPN - Glad to hear your iHeat is working well for you and that you stuck with it. I have been able to hold a temperature setting pretty well without it hitting the upper limit as long as the wattage isn’t set too high. Blackwood is a rose wood that has a fragrant smell when turning. It does work well for a vaporizer body and roasting tubes.
@abbaba - The number of bowls per charge will depend upon the condition of your battery. A new battery will get around 7 bowls depending upon the wattage level. The higher the wattage level, the faster it will go through the battery but produce larger clouds. Reduce the wattage level for better flavor.
@Andreaerdna - Glad to hear it arrived safely and you are finding tube and load size that works best for you. I generally let it preheat for about 2 seconds before taking a hit. I sometimes get a green spot in the middle with a crescent of brown around it. It does stay cooler than a typical log vaporizer. I have even considered trying some laminated wood.
@SloJimFizz - Thanks for posting the photos. That is one of my prototypes so it is 1” in diameter. I am now making them 25mm so that they can fit a Witcher box. Glad you able to get it to work in temperature control mode. You have a lot of tube options. I have started using a vibration / tapping method to stir the bowl. I tap the edge of the bowl with my fingernail at a rate of about 3 times per second. It causes the flower material at the outer edge to lift up and move to the center of the bowl. It also fluffs up the load so it needs to be lightly packed back down. I will sometimes rotate the bowl as I am tapping on it. Works the best to do it while the load is still hot.
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
I've been using the Power mode on my Kaos Z and it works as well as the TC side at regulating the heat and not letting any flare ups happen that charred my loads using my previous mod box.
These uneven roastings, crescent shaped hot spots, and dark round ring with green center were all symptoms I had before getting the Z.
In Power mode, the sweet spot range is right around 35.5 watts, and I can step at .01 increments with about 38.5 getting great extraction. Some strains take a little more naturally
The Nickel 200 TC setting controls my I Heat as accurately as my Tubo, with 385-395 being my favorite spots on both units. Vigorous side by side testing was fun. Had to space it out a tad.
If your mod box has a Ni200 setting, give that a try in tc mode. Not sure if a straight Ni setting is the same as a Ni200. I know dick about mod boxes.
Got lucky with this one working right out of the box to make the I Heat function like I was hoping it would. Like my Tubo and Zion.
Power mode before and after pics, start at 27.5, 1 stir, full extraction @ 42.0
These uneven roastings, crescent shaped hot spots, and dark round ring with green center were all symptoms I had before getting the Z.
In Power mode, the sweet spot range is right around 35.5 watts, and I can step at .01 increments with about 38.5 getting great extraction. Some strains take a little more naturally
The Nickel 200 TC setting controls my I Heat as accurately as my Tubo, with 385-395 being my favorite spots on both units. Vigorous side by side testing was fun. Had to space it out a tad.
If your mod box has a Ni200 setting, give that a try in tc mode. Not sure if a straight Ni setting is the same as a Ni200. I know dick about mod boxes.
Got lucky with this one working right out of the box to make the I Heat function like I was hoping it would. Like my Tubo and Zion.
Power mode before and after pics, start at 27.5, 1 stir, full extraction @ 42.0
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Instant Heat is a keeper for me.
Not being able to use my logs was hard to get use to, it is easier now
I still have to find the right balance to get 1-2 hits to cash a 0.1/ 0.15 but otherwise I am very good with it
I get 4 nice hits with one stirring and two spinning of the bowl (from .1/.15g), brown ABV like I like it. 27,5W
Flowers must be not too humid otherwise it will take longer (one ghost hit, 1more stirring) and it would be easier to get dark spot if you are in hurry (@Bravesst you are definitely right to underline this aspect) as in any 100%convection device i believe.
It takes very little to adapt power output to my draw, it is instinctive and thanks to mod regulation it is easy to learn how to use it and repeat
I used it for some times now and I have 0 charred wood smell, you have to do it on pourpose for what I see
For the little history: I was looking for an on demand convection device since longtime.
Besides anything else, the fragility of other units that use glass on glass (like mistvape or tubo which both still intrigue me, even if way less now) was the deal breaker for me. IH looks solid as a rock because it is glass free natively. I love glass purity but I deeply dislike its fragility on a portable device and the dust created by a gong connection scares the paranoic shit out of me when not waterfiltered
Too bad there is a very long waiting list
but when you love something it is usefull to learn to wait 
... also a waiting list so long is maybe for some reason, if you are a passionate vaporist you should put yourself inline and decide when the times come
Happy roasting everybody
Not being able to use my logs was hard to get use to, it is easier now
I still have to find the right balance to get 1-2 hits to cash a 0.1/ 0.15 but otherwise I am very good with it
I get 4 nice hits with one stirring and two spinning of the bowl (from .1/.15g), brown ABV like I like it. 27,5W
Flowers must be not too humid otherwise it will take longer (one ghost hit, 1more stirring) and it would be easier to get dark spot if you are in hurry (@Bravesst you are definitely right to underline this aspect) as in any 100%convection device i believe.
It takes very little to adapt power output to my draw, it is instinctive and thanks to mod regulation it is easy to learn how to use it and repeat
I used it for some times now and I have 0 charred wood smell, you have to do it on pourpose for what I see
For the little history: I was looking for an on demand convection device since longtime.
Besides anything else, the fragility of other units that use glass on glass (like mistvape or tubo which both still intrigue me, even if way less now) was the deal breaker for me. IH looks solid as a rock because it is glass free natively. I love glass purity but I deeply dislike its fragility on a portable device and the dust created by a gong connection scares the paranoic shit out of me when not waterfiltered
Too bad there is a very long waiting list
but when you love something it is usefull to learn to wait ... also a waiting list so long is maybe for some reason, if you are a passionate vaporist you should put yourself inline and decide when the times comeHappy roasting everybody
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Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Got my perfect setup
I use this mouthpiece/stem
I put a basket screen (the one for 12/13mm glass stem) and a silicone band (2layers) or the cork 18/14reducer @Alan makes to fit IH (there is quite a big difference between the two glass honey straw I own)
1 newvape spoon, perfect roasting @27,5w. If flowers are @62% then it is needed 1 first hit to dry them (very tasty but light) a stir and then huge clouds and light brown abv
Very very happy
I use this mouthpiece/stem
I put a basket screen (the one for 12/13mm glass stem) and a silicone band (2layers) or the cork 18/14reducer @Alan makes to fit IH (there is quite a big difference between the two glass honey straw I own)
1 newvape spoon, perfect roasting @27,5w. If flowers are @62% then it is needed 1 first hit to dry them (very tasty but light) a stir and then huge clouds and light brown abv
Very very happy
@SloJimFizz - Thanks for posting the photos. Glad you are having good results from your iHeat. It is a great way to roast.
@Andreaerdna - Glad I was able to make an on demand unit that does not require glass fittings for you. The mouthpiece stem you posted looks really great. Glad the cork sleeve / silicone works for it. A nice way to roast.
I finally had a chance to try the double spiral coil shape for the heater coil today. It works pretty much as I thought it would. There is too much heat concentrated in the middle. The single spiral coil shape is still the best configuration I have found for heat distribution. It is also easier to make than the double spiral.
@Andreaerdna - Glad I was able to make an on demand unit that does not require glass fittings for you. The mouthpiece stem you posted looks really great. Glad the cork sleeve / silicone works for it. A nice way to roast.
I finally had a chance to try the double spiral coil shape for the heater coil today. It works pretty much as I thought it would. There is too much heat concentrated in the middle. The single spiral coil shape is still the best configuration I have found for heat distribution. It is also easier to make than the double spiral.
AngryJon
Well-Known Member
I've been fortunate enough to get a walnut iHeat from Alan (using with mod Vapor Flask Stout, I don't know anything about mods, but this looked like a good value proposition) and am just loving this experience. Portable clouds on demand, tastes great and cooks evenly and efficiently at ~35 watts:
AngryJon
Well-Known Member
I was under the impression that you could get the cartridge with or without a glass bowl. Am I wrong? I'm confused.
The glass tube fits inside the walnut stem and sits on top of the screen that forms the bowl at the bottom of the stem for the herb. The glass tube can easily be pulled out of the stem.
The stem as a whole also comes out as pictured above in SloJimFiz's post.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I was under the impression that you could get the cartridge with or without a glass bowl. Am I wrong? I'm confused.
You still can, but I don't believe anyone has chosen the glass yet, just all wood it seems
Summer
Long Island, NY
What are the +s & -s of each choice? Thanks!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Glass can break and probably means you need the wider diameter IH too, whereas wood may not be as pure tasting and may not match up well with all glass stems (all glass is slightly variable) some people fear glass dust particles while so fear diff wood species affecting their vapor. The glass here also requires silicone which holds it in place (not sure if the heater is sheathed in glass or if it is just the bowl for the stem connection sitting above the heater
StonerSloth
cui bono?
For me a smaller diameter and fewer breakable parts made the decision easy.
I haven't dropped it yet and I don't plan on it, but you know..
I haven't dropped it yet and I don't plan on it, but you know..
Summer
Long Island, NY
This I'd like to know & would like pics of the glass setup.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
There were pics earlier in the thread (or in the plug in version of the thread) and that is why I think it may only be above the heater, with nothing between the heater and the wood, but I could be wrong. I'm sure @Alan can provide more next time he checks in here as well
I was very skeptical off the no-glass option but decided to trust Alan's judgement and I'm glad that I did.
The wood option is just better, IMO, for many reasons. It conducts less heat which leaves more heat for the actual vapor path, it's much much more durable, it allows the IH to be thinner, it doesn't require silicone, it fits all of my glass and wood stems perfectly. Even with heavy use there's not noticeable wood taste and no signs of the wood charring.
in my opinion, the only reason to choose glass is if you're simply not comfortable with wood in the airpath.
The wood option is just better, IMO, for many reasons. It conducts less heat which leaves more heat for the actual vapor path, it's much much more durable, it allows the IH to be thinner, it doesn't require silicone, it fits all of my glass and wood stems perfectly. Even with heavy use there's not noticeable wood taste and no signs of the wood charring.
in my opinion, the only reason to choose glass is if you're simply not comfortable with wood in the airpath.
btka
Well-Known Member
how is the iheat compared to your nano... is it a portable log vape (nano)... can you get the same results (cloud size, taste, efficency...)
would be nice to have more videos of the iheat in action!
hope my name will come up on the list this month..
regarding wood which one would you suggest ... thought of bamboo but changed my mind ..maybe walnut
AngryJon
Well-Known Member
I can say for sure both make clouds, but I need more time to describe how I'm feeling about the comparison. The biggest differentiating factor is the e-nano sits pretty stable at one temperature with me, while the mod powered element heats up increasingly as you hold down the button for each hit. I'll try to give a clearer picture after I'm happy with my watts and technique.
Also, I'd personally always recommend getting wood over bamboo. One waits a long time for @Alan's time, you wouldn't want to cheat yourself of the opportunity to get some of his wood turning.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
@AngryJon - Thanks for posting the photo. Glad you are enjoying it. I have my Witcher box set at 36 watts which seems to work well for me.
@Summer - The only time I use the 18mm glass insert is if a customer requests it or if there are holes in the material that won’t allow me to taper the wood. There will be wood in the air path with either option. With the glass insert, the heater coil is completely enclosed in glass, but the air still comes in through holes in the wood.
The smallest the wood can be for the glass insert is 1.25” (31.75mm). The all wood heater cartridge can be 25mm in diameter which fits better on the mod box. I would recommend the all wood option if you are looking at only the cartridge for a mod box.
There is a photo comparing the all wood and glass insert on the OP of this thread. Some people just prefer glass roasting tubes that fit into glass fittings.
@sickmanfraud - Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to check with me. Always happy to hear from you. May take me a few days to reply, but I will get back to you.
@Summer - The only time I use the 18mm glass insert is if a customer requests it or if there are holes in the material that won’t allow me to taper the wood. There will be wood in the air path with either option. With the glass insert, the heater coil is completely enclosed in glass, but the air still comes in through holes in the wood.
The smallest the wood can be for the glass insert is 1.25” (31.75mm). The all wood heater cartridge can be 25mm in diameter which fits better on the mod box. I would recommend the all wood option if you are looking at only the cartridge for a mod box.
There is a photo comparing the all wood and glass insert on the OP of this thread. Some people just prefer glass roasting tubes that fit into glass fittings.
@sickmanfraud - Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to check with me. Always happy to hear from you. May take me a few days to reply, but I will get back to you.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Alan, in recollection, did you scorch your lungs on that hit 'cause the way your breathing sounds, not like coughing, more like gasping.
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