Discontinued Hopper io

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
My only other vape is broken so I’ve been smoking for the last week or so
Carbon monoxide poisoning, that explains it perfectly. I’m sorry you are annoyed when someone tries to help someone else. I never said it was a guaranteed fix for everyone. I said it worked for me after trying everything else possible and still getting the straight to blue error.

Your spare tire analogy is even flawed because it will throw off the weight balance of the car, and in a high performance car that is very noticeable. I would say the Grasshopper is a high performance vaporizer operating at high tolerances so yes, small seemingly insignificant changes can have noticeable effects on performance. Sort of like how a little dirt in the backend threads causes it to run cool.
 
Vapor_Eyes,

ssrrosey

Well-Known Member
Carbon monoxide poisoning, that explains it perfectly. I’m sorry you are annoyed when someone tries to help someone else. I never said it was a guaranteed fix for everyone. I said it worked for me after trying everything else possible and still getting the straight to blue error.

Your spare tire analogy is even flawed because it will throw off the weight balance of the car, and in a high performance car that is very noticeable. I would say the Grasshopper is a high performance vaporizer operating at high tolerances so yes, small seemingly insignificant changes can have noticeable effects on performance. Sort of like how a little dirt in the backend threads causes it to run cool.
Oh my god man why do you keep digging yourself deeper. The tire/car analogy was talking about the spare tire not being part of the cars electrical circuitry, it was completely unrelated to any “weight balance.” If your driving a fancy sports car it’s not gonna have a tire hanging on the back like it’s a Jeep, now will it?

does the front end cause notable changes, YES. obviously the naive to pfe has a big difference so clearly pfe to no front end would to. But the differences are about how vapor gets directed and airflow. It has nothing to do with the actual workings or electronics of the vape.

does grit/dirt in the backend affect performance, YES. Although in the exact opposite way that you state. Backend grime causes it to run hot. It prevents the power from being efficiently transmitted because that’s where the negative terminal and backend connect.

I’ve posted a video of QC from hopper labs where they test each hopper without a front end. Why would they do that if it’s causing a hard reset every time? Every single person on here who has responded has disagreed with you, some more condescending then others, but not a single person has supported your argument. I tried to let you out gracefully after I responded initially by saying let’s stop ripping on this dude and that it was an understand mistake. What’s not understandable is how, after being shown video evidence from the manufacturer, and after being told by 100% of people who responded that you were wrong, you still keep arguing this point. Stop.
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Hey guys, take it up in PM maybe?

On a side note, here’s a temp stepping session in a fully working Hopper io.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-_pxoCnMJt/?igshid=1b5q1ufrllaed

Remember, this isn’t the OG GH. We’re starting fresh with a new vape. Speculation is only speculation.
The fact is, this is working. I think all units sent out so far are working. The OLD batteries are lasting for more sessions. The vape is fucking great and there’s too many distractions taking away from that.

The only thing we can do, is wait. Wait and see how it turns out. Everything else is fantasy and imagined anxiety.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Oh my god man why do you keep digging yourself deeper. The tire/car analogy was talking about the spare tire not being part of the cars electrical circuitry, it was completely unrelated to any “weight balance.” If your driving a fancy sports car it’s not gonna have a tire hanging on the back like it’s a Jeep, now will it?

does the front end cause notable changes, YES. obviously the naive to pfe has a big difference so clearly pfe to no front end would to. But the differences are about how vapor gets directed and airflow. It has nothing to do with the actual workings or electronics of the vape.

does grit/dirt in the backend affect performance, YES. Although in the exact opposite way that you state. Backend grime causes it to run hot. It prevents the power from being efficiently transmitted because that’s where the negative terminal and backend connect.

I’ve posted a video of QC from hopper labs where they test each hopper without a front end. Why would they do that if it’s causing a hard reset every time? Every single person on here who has responded has disagreed with you, some more condescending then others, but not a single person has supported your argument. I tried to let you out gracefully after I responded initially by saying let’s stop ripping on this dude and that it was an understand mistake. What’s not understandable is how, after being shown video evidence from the manufacturer, and after being told by 100% of people who responded that you were wrong, you still keep arguing this point. Stop.
I will never stop trying to help people no matter how much you argue against it. I never said it causes a reset, I said it was a possibility. One among many, many of which we haven’t discussed here. Just because you can’t think of a good reason it would work doesn’t mean a good reason doesn’t exist.

I struggle to think of a good reason not to try and help someone if it is doing no harm.
 

ssrrosey

Well-Known Member
I will never stop trying to help people no matter how much you argue against it. I never said it causes a reset, I said it was a possibility. One among many, many of which we haven’t discussed here. Just because you can’t think of a good reason it would work doesn’t mean a good reason doesn’t exist.

I struggle to think of a good reason not to try and help someone if it is doing no harm.
In science things rarely get proven, hence why they are considered theories. Instead you try to disprove any competing theory. Since I didn’t design the vape I cannot prove my theory, but I can and have disproven yours. Helping people is great and I 100% support your effort. What annoys me isn’t your initial claim, that’s fine, you were trying to help. What annoys me is that you keep claiming that it’s valid after being proven wrong. Just stop, or at least present a new theory.
 

LAWTHEONE

CLOUDYWITHFOG/ZEROVISIBILITY
Hey guys, take it up in PM maybe?

On a side note, here’s a temp stepping session in a fully working Hopper io.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-_pxoCnMJt/?igshid=1b5q1ufrllaed

Remember, this isn’t the OG GH. We’re starting fresh with a new vape. Speculation is only speculation.
The fact is, this is working. I think all units sent out so far are working. The OLD batteries are lasting for more sessions. The vape is fucking great and there’s too many distractions taking away from that.

The only thing we can do, is wait. Wait and see how it turns out. Everything else is fantasy and imagined anxiety.


Thanks AJS. Really appreciate the videos.
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
I will never stop trying to help people no matter how much you argue against it. I never said it causes a reset, I said it was a possibility. One among many, many of which we haven’t discussed here. Just because you can’t think of a good reason it would work doesn’t mean a good reason doesn’t exist.

I struggle to think of a good reason not to try and help someone if it is doing no harm.

In science things rarely get proven, hence why they are considered theories. Instead you try to disprove any competing theory. Since I didn’t design the vape I cannot prove my theory, but I can and have disproven yours. Helping people is great and I 100% support your effort. What annoys me isn’t your initial claim, that’s fine, you were trying to help. What annoys me is that you keep claiming that it’s valid after being proven wrong. Just stop, or at least present a new theory.
You guys have become a real buzzkill. Maybe you can go argue somewhere else? Leave us some 420 peace, please.

I offer a sage nugget of advice, especially to newcomers; There's a great feature called the "Ignore" button at each members profile. Using it is similar to turning off the tv, it can occasionally be very refreshing. Empowering!
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
You guys have become a real buzzkill. Maybe you can go argue somewhere else? Leave us some 420 peace, please.

I offer a sage nugget of advice, especially to newcomers; There's a great feature called the "Ignore" button at each members profile. Using it is similar to turning off the tv, it can occasionally be very refreshing. Empowering!
I’m sorry to be a buzzkill. I don’t normally get caught up like that but I feel strongly that FC is a place where we help each other out. To have two people attack me for providing harmless advice seemed antithetical to the purpose of this site. I can’t simply ignore it when people actively discourage helping out in the name of some vague “accuracy” when we all agree we don’t know exactly how this thing works.

Changing topics, I am really looking forward to trying the io. Hopefully it is very reliable and I don’t have to try and help anyone out lol.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
My assumption is that the chamber IS in fact insulated from the body and backend somewhere around the heater
It butts right up against it, metal to metal.

Regardless I am 100% sure that having the front piece on or off doesn’t prevent it from starting up or cause a “reboot.”
Sure the things seem to work with a disconnected front end. Mine always have. But how it actually works is mysterious to me. I'm no EE but given that these things use some kind of pulse width modulation it is my suspicion that by removing the front end you could change the capacitance of the system or otherwise introduce some noise as the current finds its pathways through the material which is having its mass altered or is otherwise being manipulated. This noise could impact how an IC behaves and change the performance, or initiate some kind of functional change. Alternatively some people have reported units working only with the front end attached, or other strange and unexplained behaviour. Who knows. These things are complex. And with multiple accounts of arcing to the front end, it is possibly energised just as the body is. It would make sense given that they touch. How the PCB interfaces is via threads in the main body. Arcing to the front end indicates a higher path of resistance at the PCB interface, which isn't normal. With batch production and with tens of thousands of users, many have similar devices to others and there are some who have differently performing and operating units. Does it take 2 or 16 seconds to go blue, or what if it is taking 1:12.. is the herb tan or brown or black or ash.. does the heat curve plateau and hold indefinitely, does it fade away after 18s, is it insanely quick, or does it take a primer hit.. does it need to be clicked once, left a second and power cycled to consistently deliver fat clouds on the first hit? These things have been all over the shop with little consistency overall. Not all units have powered the front end the same way, sometimes by design.
I would love to know how to actually reset my hopper, or what torque is required to unthread the heater assembly, or what the diagnostic points on the PCB pins do - they obviously interface with pogo pins for production firmware loading and testing, eventually things can be further realised. External power packs from 3rd parties is a great start.

When a hopper stops working, and there's no quick support, we are left with, at best, voodoo. I enjoy reading what people are experiencing in their fleeting moments, and certainly weirdness is what heightens that interest. There has been many, many an oddity mentioned on these forums about Grasshoppers, and they are of far greater value than mere assumptions based on hearsay. Perhaps this banter should be filed with that nonsense and away from the new thread concerning revolutionary new instantness. It's such a big change to the hopper we knew, which we don't truly know.

considering getting a dynavap during this sale
Is the Grasshopper your only vaporiser?

Instead you try to disprove any competing theory
Ask yourself, who is trying to disprove who and over what knowledge is any of this based on. Anecdotal or otherwise this is the discussion, and there is rarely any confident conclusion here.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Good Sunday morning to all. Let’s try to chill the conversation down a bit. I’ve enjoyed reading everyone’s posts, good, bad or indifferent. I’m now chilling after using my Tinymight, which has supplanted my OG Ti as my number one vape, however I won’t ignore my Hopper on Sunday of all days :).

On the topic of conductivity I may stand corrected. Like the backend, with brass button and the the equidistant notches around the diameter of the steel ring likely serving in some function, the rim of the chamber contains two rings - an outer one with many small holes and and slightly lower inner one with 3 equidistant notches. I’m not an EE either but those aren’t coincidental and serve a purpose of some sorts. Someone above mentioned an assembly or testing video with running Hoppers without frontends (I didn’t watch it) and that’s what I originally thought. I still haven’t ever tried, and maybe later if I’m bored. I still think it will operate without a frontend. But those 3 channels serve a purpose of some kind and perhaps implicates some resolutions to some common issues. Just a thought. Apologies if those 3 channels have been explained before (I’ve only read about half the pages).

Anyway, keep the io comments and reviews coming. While I have no current desire to buy another vape, I’d consider the io (and gift my Ti) as I still love my Hopper. But only if it’s reliable and they have a plenitude if batteries :lol::peace::peace:
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
It butts right up against it, metal to metal.
It also screws directly onto the heater assembly's housing, which in turn is threaded into the body.

Alternatively some people have reported units working only with the front end attached, or other strange and unexplained behaviour.
On this topic; I have an og that gives me a strong shock if I touch the front end and body at the same time. Of course, with mp on and power on.

I would love to know how to actually reset my hopper, or what torque is required to unthread the heater assembly
A recent og warranty replacement body I received, after just a dozen or so uses, got tight threads at the mouthpiece. I thought the mp screen had come loose and was un-threading, but no, the entire heater assembly came unscrewed along with mouthpiece. Interestingly, a narrow 'circlet', or rather a half-circle of metal (looked like narrow band of copper) fell out loose from the assembly. So far my guess (more idle speculation...) is that it gets embedded in the threads to 1. jam-lock the assembly in place and 2. increase conductivity.
In this case, very little torque was required! Too lazy and bummed to take photos and not sure how to post pix anyway, I've open warranty request and put the bad boy away.

I'll try to be more io-forward going forward. We've already burned a thousand pages over voodoo in that dinasaur thread.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
@MoltenTiger you make a lot of great points in regards to the different revisions of Grasshoppers. I just tested my Ti hopper again, serial #52XX, and it will not power up to blue with the frontend removed. It stays red for 30+ seconds. With the frontend on it turns blue in 5 seconds and pumps out vapor. I can even take the frontend off, turn it on, it stays red for 30+ seconds and then while still on I screw the frontend on and within a second or two I have blue lights.

I have another example of strange voodoo fixes working in surprising ways. The “twisting backend” fix for the OG hopper seems like a complete waste of time. However, it helped many people restore performance and they posted about it. There was speculation it was cleaning the battery contact. Now we have an updated design with the io, and guess what, the backend battery contact has raised bumps so it is self cleaning. So what seemed like voodoo could have actually been addressing a nearly invisible inherent design flaw.
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
It butts right up against it, metal to metal.


Sure the things seem to work with a disconnected front end. Mine always have. But how it actually works is mysterious to me. I'm no EE but given that these things use some kind of pulse width modulation it is my suspicion that by removing the front end you could change the capacitance of the system or otherwise introduce some noise as the current finds its pathways through the material which is having its mass altered or is otherwise being manipulated. This noise could impact how an IC behaves and change the performance, or initiate some kind of functional change. Alternatively some people have reported units working only with the front end attached, or other strange and unexplained behaviour. Who knows. These things are complex. And with multiple accounts of arcing to the front end, it is possibly energised just as the body is. It would make sense given that they touch. How the PCB interfaces is via threads in the main body. Arcing to the front end indicates a higher path of resistance at the PCB interface, which isn't normal. With batch production and with tens of thousands of users, many have similar devices to others and there are some who have differently performing and operating units. Does it take 2 or 16 seconds to go blue, or what if it is taking 1:12.. is the herb tan or brown or black or ash.. does the heat curve plateau and hold indefinitely, does it fade away after 18s, is it insanely quick, or does it take a primer hit.. does it need to be clicked once, left a second and power cycled to consistently deliver fat clouds on the first hit? These things have been all over the shop with little consistency overall. Not all units have powered the front end the same way, sometimes by design.
I would love to know how to actually reset my hopper, or what torque is required to unthread the heater assembly, or what the diagnostic points on the PCB pins do - they obviously interface with pogo pins for production firmware loading and testing, eventually things can be further realised. External power packs from 3rd parties is a great start.

When a hopper stops working, and there's no quick support, we are left with, at best, voodoo. I enjoy reading what people are experiencing in their fleeting moments, and certainly weirdness is what heightens that interest. There has been many, many an oddity mentioned on these forums about Grasshoppers, and they are of far greater value than mere assumptions based on hearsay. Perhaps this banter should be filed with that nonsense and away from the new thread concerning revolutionary new instantness. It's such a big change to the hopper we knew, which we don't truly know.


Is the Grasshopper your only vaporiser?


Ask yourself, who is trying to disprove who and over what knowledge is any of this based on. Anecdotal or otherwise this is the discussion, and there is rarely any confident conclusion here.
Eh, not so sure about that capacitance thing.

I mean, we change OG MPs e PFE’s and do so with either SS or Ti pieces without regard for the material of the body, right?

Ok, I’m bowing out of this one now!! Haha
 

ssrrosey

Well-Known Member
@MoltenTiger i appreciate that response. Its the most insightful I’ve seen so far. Nevertheless I feel that there are some flaws in the logic. I’d be happy to continue, I didn’t think I was being uncivilized, but clearly the sub would like to move on so I’m just gonna give it up, no point in beating a dead horse. My thought all along though has been that the SS chamber has insulation and any arcing (which I too have experienced) is an issue stemming from extra resistance in the internal connects forcing an alternative path for the electricity; it just turns out that arcing between body and front end is this path in some situations. I don’t know and I’m just moving on from this point.

@MoltenTiger yes unfortunately the GH is my only right now. I’ve had others in the past, like when I originally ordered the Og GH, but they’ve either been sold or broke. It’s my last year in college so I’ve been doing my best to avoid VAS until I have a reliable job!

Having more information about self diagnosis would be incredible. I probably have access to the tools that would be required, unless they’re customed, so information allowing us to diagnose and fix basic problems as well as clean the internals would be huge. I think a large, large number of the RMAs stemmed from residue and simply from not being able to clean the inside.

Rotating the backend makes a lot more sense as a potential jerry rig solution because, as you said, it’s justifiable due to its role in processing and power management; even if we didn’t completely understand why.

@Baron23 I agree. Would imply worse performance with PFE. Plus I think you’d have to factor in your body as far as resistance then too. Idk.
 
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guyonthecouch

Well-Known Member
This discussion pertains to the OG Hopper(and it's multitude of various versions in the wild, I'd say every batch was different, especially the heater) and should be moved to/continued in the appropriate thread.

It should be continued because I've experienced @Vapor_Eyes description of OG grasshopper voodoo as well. Certain configurations(front end+body+prob back end too) SEEM to demonstrate erratic behavior.. logic or reasoning behind it is most likely detectable but is beyond me.

HL did not have a reasonable explanation as to why a particular front end would have varying results but it was happening for me too. As stated by @Vapor_Eyes, I don't see the harm in trying to fix our devices and helping others on this forum.. or in any facet of life.. no one is forcing any belief system on anyone here..

I was also shunned for discussing/offering my non conventional fixes/solutions.. as the world turns.
Lazylathe's recent posts in the Grasshopper thread are awesome! Reminds me of some of the tips I tried to share years ago but were scoffed at.. which I can understand because not all the fixes will work for every particular case(too many manufacturing variables to account for), therefore easily dismissable.

Discussion surrounding potential DIY fixes IMO is the most valuable asset and purpose that this forum brings to our love of vaporizing. (In recent years, it seems to be fading into a customer service portal though - send the company a direct msg/email). Beats starring at your non working hopper/or any other vape sitting in a drawer and waiting on a fix from the company. What's the harm in trying?

It may work for some and not for others. There have been a ton of revisions to the OG grasshopper over the years and most likely, not many of us have the "same" version/configuration.

As the main man Ataxian puts it.. keep it civilized.. :cool:


io is holding up strong.. putting it through the paces, 3-5g/day 99% through rig setup.

Only using mag/stock charger which I recommend doing for both io and OG for optimal performance/longevity.

No issues yet, thankfully..
 
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Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
I’m looking forward to io usage and I plan on using it 99% native. I am one of those freaks that use my OG native. My sweet spot is 4-4.2 on the OG but I often use temp 5 as well, 410°. I don’t think I will want to go up to temp 5, 430°, on the io very often. That seems a bit toasty for my general preferences.
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Eh, not so sure about that capacitance thing.

I mean, we change OG MPs e PFE’s and do so with either SS or Ti pieces without regard for the material of the body, right?

Ok, I’m bowing out of this one now!! Haha
Neither am I, but if you get arcing there, there is going to be emmissions and noise which might fuck with things. Normally the device is assembled before it's powered too, so it is usually holding a consistent channel for comms.
Granted I have taken front ends off with running units and never noticed anything odd. I haven't noticed a lot of what others have with their front ends, I just have different batch units I'd guess.
 

Tolamang

Well-Known Member
This discussion pertains to the OG Hopper(and it's multitude of various versions in the wild, I'd say every batch was different, especially the heater) and should be moved to/continued in the appropriate thread.

It should be continued because I've experienced @Vapor_Eyes description of OG grasshopper voodoo as well. Certain configurations(front end+body+prob back end too) SEEM to demonstrate erratic behavior.. logic or reasoning behind it is most likely detectable but is beyond me.

HL did not have a reasonable explanation as to why a particular front end would have varying results but it was happening for me too. As stated by @Vapor_Eyes, I don't see the harm in trying to fix our devices and helping others on this forum.. or in any facet of life.. no one is forcing any belief system on anyone here..

I was also shunned for discussing/offering my non conventional fixes/solutions.. as the world turns.
Lazylathe's recent posts in the Grasshopper thread are awesome! Reminds me of some of the tips I tried to share years ago but were scoffed at.. which I can understand because not all the fixes will work for every particular case(too many manufacturing variables to account for), therefore easily dismissable.

Discussion surrounding potential DIY fixes IMO is the most valuable asset and purpose that this forum brings to our love of vaporizing. (In recent years, it seems to be fading into a customer service portal though - send the company a direct msg/email). Beats starring at your non working hopper/or any other vape sitting in a drawer and waiting on a fix from the company. What's the harm in trying?

It may work for some and not for others. There have been a ton of revisions to the OG grasshopper over the years and most likely, not many of us have the "same" version/configuration.

As the main man Ataxian puts it.. keep it civilized.. :cool:


io is holding up strong.. putting it through the paces, 3-5g/day 99% through rig setup.

Only using mag/stock charger which I recommend doing for both io and OG for optimal performance/longevity.

No issues yet, thankfully..
Why do you recommend using stock charger and not an external one? Just. curious! My IO is shipping tomorrow!
 

guyonthecouch

Well-Known Member
Why do you recommend using stock charger and not an external one? Just. curious! My IO is shipping tomorrow!

IME find it makes life easier to have one main battery and just throw it on the mag charger when not in use vs rotating through a bunch of batts trying to keep them all charged etc.

With the OG, since keeping back end threads clean seems to help avoid function issues, I did a major cleaning of the body(threads and positive contact area at opposite end) and back end(threads and all little crevices on back end etc) with great results. To keep these areas as clean as possible I decided that I'd limit/try not to unscrew back end from body if possible. Definitely helped with less issues overall.

Kept this mindset going into the io but back end is way more robust now and prob doesn't need as much cleaning/maintenance. Why mess with a good thing and only have 1x good battery to use right now anyways.

Also, I'd assume that the stock/mag charger is calibrated to the device/batt specifications so in theory it should be the best option for charging. I found that with more batts and external charger, batts overall capacity seemed to deplete faster.. but that was guess work.

Dream setup is two io hoppers with two brand new batts, one in use and the other on the charger ready to rock at all times.. for those late night occasions bust out the U joint adapter and rip the double barrel action :smug:
 
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