Discontinued Hopper io

[vapviking]

Approximately how LONG does it take to charge an empty GHB3 battery using the supplied MAGNETIC USB charger cable?

I just tested my 1st one, ran it down till DEAD, approximately 3 volts.
Used a 2.1 amp iPad USB charger.
After 4 hours, the double flash LED light full charge confirmation did NOT activate.
Pulled battery, read 4 volts with meter. So it was getting a charge, and I realize this magnetic charger is going to be slow, but FOUR HOURS, and still not full to 4.2 (standard lithium cutoff voltage)

My USB inline meter showed the device taking bursts of up to 1.2 amps then dropping to almost nothing, then repeating this cycle. I switched to a 1 amp Apple iPhone charger, device was pulling 700-800 mAh’s, a slower but better rate for a 750mAh rated battery, but the on/off cycling continued.

While I can custom set my external charger settings, being able to use the magnetic cable is attractive as you aren’t constantly taking the backend on and off so often. I also bought the little charger stand from @Delta3DStudios, and thought it would be handy just to plop the IO right in for top up charges.

So thanks in advance.... will do more tests.

Approximately how LONG does it take to charge an empty GHB3 battery using the supplied MAGNETIC USB charger cable?

That battery is charing very slowly.
I think it should be less than 2 hrs, roughly, I've never clocked it.
I don't recall seeing any go below about 3.5 volts. That's ghb3 run down in an io.
The ghb2's in og never went below about 3.6 volts.
Mine charge in less than 2 hrs even in external charger at 500mah.

 

[ChooChooCharlie]

(one person's data point)

@RustyOldNail - Timed charging from empty to full for you, using io mag cable and apple 12watt usb adapter:

1hr 50min

I like to velcro tape the Delta3Dstudios mag charging cable "stand" upon a paperweight, makes it more stable. Here's link for cube on left, $10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WXHGH4

 

[RustyOldNail]

That battery is charing very slowly.
I think it should be less than 2 hrs, roughly, I've never clocked it.
I don't recall seeing any go below about 3.5 volts. That's ghb3 run down in an io.
The ghb2's in og never went below about 3.6 volts.
Mine charge in less than 2 hrs even in external charger at 500mah.

(one person's data point)

@RustyOldNail - Timed charging from empty to full for you, using io mag cable and apple 12watt usb adapter:

1hr 50min

I like to velcro tape the Delta3Dstudios mag charging cable "stand" upon a paperweight, makes it more stable. Here's link for cube on left, $10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WXHGH4

Thanks to both of you! Now I have a baseline. I knew something was wrong, will repeat my tests on next battery. It’s possible the advanced USB tester I used is the issue, I’m going to try a different one. It sits between the USB charger and the IO cable. LOVE the weighted base!

Since they are new, it’s taking longer to vape them low.... and then I need a NAP....

 

[Vaporific]

Approximately how LONG does it take to charge an empty GHB3 battery using the supplied MAGNETIC USB charger cable?

I assume the latest version of the mag charging cable? I have both the first gen and latest (or 2nd gen), and while I don t use both often sinc with charge batts externally, I’ve never had a anything charge more than a couple of hours until fully charged with the mag cables. 4 hours doesn’t seem right.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I assume the latest version of the mag charging cable? I have both the first gen and latest (or 2nd gen), and while I don t use both often sinc with charge batts externally, I’ve never had a anything charge more than a couple of hours until fully charged with the mag cables. 4 hours doesn’t seem right.

I assume the latest versions of everything, as I just received it, my first GH.
If my inline USB meters have to be removed from the charge path, my future tests will then only be based on how LONG the charge takes till the “double blink lights” activate showing full charge, then I’ll quickly test the off charger voltage with accurate volt meter. That’s why knowing how long you owners charge times are, was the missing information I needed, search here, as well as google did not find this, odd.

I have a lot of bowls to get through for these tests... sure I could discharge the bats in my SkyRC MC3000, but that would be cheating and no fun.... stay tuned....

 

[vapviking]

I assume the latest versions of everything, as I just received it, my first GH.
If my inline USB meters have to be removed from the charge path, my future tests will then only be based on how LONG the charge takes till the “double blink lights” activate showing full charge, then I’ll quickly test the off charger voltage with accurate volt meter. That’s why knowing how long you owners charge times are, was the missing information I needed, search here, as well as google did not find this, odd.

I have a lot of bowls to get through for these tests... sure I could discharge the bats in my SkyRC MC3000, but that would be cheating and no fun.... stay tuned....

I primarily use the oem cable (I think I have all versions, 4 in total and they all seem about the same as far as time-to-charge goes at least).
I also use a Nitecore D2 2 bay external charger that has a readout of status and it can be toggled between 1 and .5 amps.
It can be powered by 110 AC or 12v via adapter, which means the Mighty's charger and car adapter work for the D2 (and vice versa on the car adapter) as well. I believe it was under $20.

I know @MoltenTiger loves the Xtar USB charger. I tried on his recommendation, unfortunately it broke, and I was finding it harder to mount the batts into. My fingers are not small.

Glad you're enjoying your new toy!

 

[slozukimc]

Been a while. @Hopperlabs is still depending upon John for customer service. Seeing he doesn’t know how to read and properly respond to a simple fucking question I figured I would post a rant here in hopes that someone from there sees it.
I have asked multiple times about my purple IO I ordered before other orders that were shipped and I get nothing. Not even a fuck you for asking.

@Hopperlabs get someone to answer CS emails that actually gives a fuck about the company and the customers. This guy has been doing a half assed job for years and you keep letting it go on.
Do ANY of you have an explanation for why the hell John skirts around questions, sporadically replies to emails and lies to customers without even an apology when he is called out on it. Just more lies.

My email is slozukimc@gmail.com if you would like to look back through the messages between John and I so you can see why I am pissed off.

 

[JBone65]

I primarily use the oem cable

Agreed.

For my purposes the OEM cable works great. I carry it for hours at a stretch but there's still plenty of time to charge it on the night stand so that it provide's seamless on demand vapor 24/7. It's not a cost thing, it's just easy to reach over and connect it....

I mentioned a peculiar issue with the magnetic charging ring previously. Mine is SS, not sure if Ti models are the same. The entire unit seems to be electrically charged to some degree. The lights might blink if I touch it to any metal. I can connect the ring, but it only charges when it's ready. Sometimes it will start charging if I disconnect and reconnect it. Anyone else see this?

 

[vapviking]

Agreed.

For my purposes the OEM cable works great. I carry it for hours at a stretch but there's still plenty of time to charge it on the night stand so that it provide's seamless on demand vapor 24/7. It's not a cost thing, it's just easy to reach over and connect it....

I mentioned a peculiar issue with the magnetic charging ring previously. Mine is SS, not sure if Ti models are the same. The entire unit seems to be electrically charged to some degree. The lights might blink if I touch it to any metal. I can connect the ring, but it only charges when it's ready. Sometimes it will start charging if I disconnect and reconnect it. Anyone else see this?

If you lay a screwdriver atop a magnet for a while, the screwdriver is magnetically charged upon removal.

I've noticed that, more often than not, the io back end (when removed) is magnetically charged. I've always attributed this to being polarization due to contact with the magnet that is on the charger ring.

Now, I venture to an area I'm not quite so sure about;
I don't think "the entire unit is electrically charged", but something like that. The whole body is the part of the current carrying mechanism, like a car body is the conductor for negative ground in that system. So, yes, electricity is flowing through io body when it is powered on, and we know that this will impose a magnetic polarization (current through a wire has a magnetic field, for example) but I don't think that's true when on oem charge ring attaches, as the battery is then the circuit.
Somebody care to straighten this out or correct if I'm way off?

Years ago one of the HL people said that metal touching the body can cause a short. The short in turn triggers a blink of the light and break in the circuit (protection).

 

[slozukimc]

Been a while. @Hopperlabs is still depending upon John for customer service. Seeing he doesn’t know how to read and properly respond to a simple fucking question I figured I would post a rant here in hopes that someone from there sees it.
I have asked multiple times about my purple IO I ordered before other orders that were shipped and I get nothing. Not even a fuck you for asking.

@Hopperlabs get someone to answer CS emails that actually gives a fuck about the company and the customers. This guy has been doing a half assed job for years and you keep letting it go on.
Do ANY of you have an explanation for why the hell John skirts around questions, sporadically replies to emails and lies to customers without even an apology when he is called out on it. Just more lies.

My email is slozukimc@gmail.com if you would like to look back through the messages between John and I so you can see why I am pissed off.

Hell I forgot to mention the IO that is in RMA. Back end fell apart, put back together and very little heat. Replacement back end sent and tried. Even worse. Won’t even try to heat. Sent back and waiting on a response. Granted, it has only been since the 20th that they rcvd the whole IO for repair but I have asked twice just to confirm receipt and John can’t even seem to answer that simple question either.

I honestly can’t wait to get my TI IO and Purple IO so I can sell them and end this bullshit with John at Hopper Labs.

 

[MoltenTiger]

I've also got the silent treatment from HL CS, still trying to sort out a replacement SS body.

Meanwhile I may have compromised my purchased replacement body using concentrates, probably needs a deep clean. Can't really do that due to the poor design. Between it and my cooler Ti, I haven't used them more than a few times in the last few weeks, would be okay with a lower tolerance but that's not where I'm at or willing to be.
Pretty disappointing but not particularly surprising to wind up here.

The device was badly flawed, but the company itself is as much of a problem. The io may not have been enough of a change for them to continue with their slow and sporadic performance.

Portable vapour bongs are such a hassle, the old school alternative is a hard one to beat, robust and foolproof. Cool hopper units are just a typical vape experience which is too bad for frequent usage superseding bong use, certainly not good enough to justify the hopper owner experience.

I'll probably pick up a V3 pro once a WPA is available and leave it at that for a while. A hopper that hits like the sub is an amazing thing that can only be shortlived. Their tech needs to be used in a more modular design for it to be a wise purchase for the long term. Their legacy fiasco is so horrible they probably should have disbanded and reformed under a different name. We can appreciated the gist of honest wishful thinking but the damage has been doubled down on. It's a tough climate for production, yet it always has been and will remain to be. Only way forward is to accept this mediocre reality as it is.

 

[slozukimc]

I've also got the silent treatment from HL CS, still trying to sort out a replacement SS body.

Meanwhile I may have compromised my purchased replacement body using concentrates, probably needs a deep clean. Can't really do that due to the poor design. Between it and my cooler Ti, I haven't used them more than a few times in the last few weeks, would be okay with a lower tolerance but that's not where I'm at or willing to be.
Pretty disappointing but not particularly surprising to wind up here.

The device was badly flawed, but the company itself is as much of a problem. The io may not have been enough of a change for them to continue with their slow and sporadic performance.

Portable vapour bongs are such a hassle, the old school alternative is a hard one to beat, robust and foolproof. Cool hopper units are just a typical vape experience which is too bad for frequent usage superseding bong use, certainly not good enough to justify the hopper owner experience.

I'll probably pick up a V3 pro once a WPA is available and leave it at that for a while. A hopper that hits like the sub is an amazing thing that can only be shortlived. Their tech needs to be used in a more modular design for it to be a wise purchase for the long term. Their legacy fiasco is so horrible they probably should have disbanded and reformed under a different name. We can appreciated the gist of honest wishful thinking but the damage has been doubled down on. It's a tough climate for production, yet it always has been and will remain to be. Only way forward is to accept this mediocre reality as it is.

I just don’t get it. The product has its faults but even with those faults so many of us are willing to support them and the customer service side ruins it for even us. I would wait patiently for a long time, quietly, if I got truthful and consistent replies.

What about that is so hard for them to get? Get rid of this John character and rebuild from the wreckage. When the IO first showed up things looked good. Then it all went to hell again.

Sad really because there really isn’t anything that works like a Hopper when it works right……..as I load my OG and rip one.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Thanks to both of you! Now I have a baseline. I knew something was wrong, will repeat my tests on next battery. It’s possible the advanced USB tester I used is the issue, I’m going to try a different one. It sits between the USB charger and the IO cable. LOVE the weighted base!

Since they are new, it’s taking longer to vape them low.... and then I need a NAP....

Just to finish reporting my finished GHB3 battery charging tests. Using the supplied USB cable.

Ran batteries to NO lights. Immediately removed and tested battery voltage with Fluke meter.
The device cutoff voltage is 3.0 volts. (If you read the resting voltage later, it will climb a bit, next day voltage was 3.4, but that’s meaningless, as there is no power in the cell)

I then charged using a 2.1amp 12watt iPad USB wall charger.
FIVE HOURS, before full charge lights, accurate termination at 4.2 volts.
Repeated test on my 3rd battery, same 5 hour charge.

*So my USB inline meters are working fine, don’t effect the charge circuit. Both of them show the charge amperage as ON... then OFF, almost like a PWM signal, only slow. So the batteries are getting the amps, but taking 2.5 times as long as the user reported 1:50 minutes.

I doubt it’s the magnetic USB charge cable, as it makes a good connection and the lights on the IO function properly. Sadly I suspect the electronics in the backend or software. Will have to write Hopper Labs about this.

 

[slozukimc]

This place is full of good folks! A long time member reached out to me to offer to send me an IO out of the goodness in his heart. That rocks. I declined the offer as I have a working OG but had to mention it here. Thanks again man! You rock!

 

[Seantagon]

This place is full of good folks! A long time member reached out to me to offer to send me an IO out of the goodness in his heart. That rocks. I declined the offer as I have a working OG but had to mention it here. Thanks again man! You rock!

I don’t have one yet I’ll take it! Lol. This is the best vape forum for sure though. Lots of friendly people ready to help.

 

[JBone65]

FIVE HOURS,

Haven't heard of anyone running them down completely dead with no lights before now. Could that damage it? I usually get 4-5 hits over 4-5 hours and put the charging ring on it. It usually only takes between half an hour to an hour to charge. Don't want it to get too low and start flashing as that might interfere with getting a hit. Five hours might be normal for a totally dead one.

 

[MoltenTiger]

I know @MoltenTiger loves the Xtar USB charger. I tried on his recommendation, unfortunately it broke, and I was finding it harder to mount the batts into. My fingers are not small.

I wanted to query how it broke, that's a pity and a bit surprising to me, mines plenty old and has held up well. It seems fairly tough, and without much to go wrong I would have thought. Was it a spring contact that broke? I find it pretty fiddly with 18650s, but the GHBs didn't require any finesse they just drop in and drop out with the spring contact withdrawn. I just use a thumb to slide it back, the charger is small though.

________________

Regarding the battery charging, 5 hours is way too long... not sure what's up with that, though the custom hopper chargers don't have a flawless track record. The GH battery should only take an hour - 1.5hrs. to charge.

Running until dead flat might cause it to take little longer but not by a whole lot.

 

[vapviking]

I wanted to query how it broke, that's a pity and a bit surprising to me, mines plenty old and has held up well. It seems fairly tough, and without much to go wrong I would have thought. Was it a spring contact that broke? I find it pretty fiddly with 18650s, but the GHBs didn't require any finesse they just drop in and drop out with the spring contact withdrawn. I just use a thumb to slide it back, the charger is small though.

________________

Regarding the battery charging, 5 hours is way too long... not sure what's up with that, though the custom hopper chargers don't have a flawless track record. The GH battery should only take an hour - 1.5hrs. to charge.

Running until dead flat might cause it to take little longer but not by a whole lot.

The Xtar simply ceased to function. Didn't even leave a note.

@RustyOldNail , I guess the good news is the io is working?
Curiosity, how many hits or how many chambers are you getting from one fresh batt?
(and the dumb question, are the back end and matching body threads clean, making good contact?)

My suggestion is you pick up an external charger, if only for some comparison. HL 'support' will likely tell you that if you feel there is an issue you can open a warranty request (first you'll have to register the device, a hassle in its own right, you gotta email them with a request to day that for you).

In the warranty portal, for an issue like you describe, Generic John (@slozukimc's nemesis!) will tell you to send in the whole piece, including charger (maybe even a battery or two, though they've never asked that of me). The wait could will probably be long.

Here's a really inexpensive Xtar, usb (@MoltenTiger likes the xtar, his a re probably not single cell...)

https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Upgraded-One-Slot-Constant-Batteries/dp/B07S5L5ZT7/ref=psdc_10063711011_t1_B00MS4U5BU

This is the exact same Nitecore I have. 110 A/C or 12 , adapter included. I say this cause I know for sure this model can switch between .5 and 1 amp charging. Shows elapsed charging time, battery status, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/D2-Rechargeable-Batteries-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00LCHICAU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=charger+nitecore+d2&qid=1633955297&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1QjI2SVRWNlMyQUImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMDgzNDlINUQ4RTZNMUkxS0UmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDc3NTU4MDFOUUo3MlhCMkE1Nlcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Or you could preorder a fancy-ass HL super-duper high speed charger, sold on the site for years but never produced. (Who does that?!?!?)
They will probably be usb-d or usb-e when they are rolled out.

 

[MoltenTiger]

The Xtar simply ceased to function. Didn't even leave a note.

@RustyOldNail , I guess the good news is the io is working?
Curiosity, how many hits or how many chambers are you getting from one fresh batt?
(and the dumb question, are the back end and matching body threads clean, making good contact?)

My suggestion is you pick up an external charger, if only for some comparison. HL 'support' will likely tell you that if you feel there is an issue you can open a warranty request (first you'll have to register the device, a hassle in its own right, you gotta email them with a request to day that for you).

In the warranty portal, for an issue like you describe, Generic John (@slozukimc's nemesis!) will tell you to send in the whole piece, including charger (maybe even a battery or two, though they've never asked that of me). The wait could will probably be long.

Here's a really inexpensive Xtar, usb (@MoltenTiger likes the xtar, his a re probably not single cell...)

https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Upgraded-One-Slot-Constant-Batteries/dp/B07S5L5ZT7/ref=psdc_10063711011_t1_B00MS4U5BU

This is the exact same Nitecore I have. 110 A/C or 12 , adapter included. I say this cause I know for sure this model can switch between .5 and 1 amp charging. Shows elapsed charging time, battery status, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/D2-Rechargeable-Batteries-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00LCHICAU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=charger+nitecore+d2&qid=1633955297&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1QjI2SVRWNlMyQUImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzMDgzNDlINUQ4RTZNMUkxS0UmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDc3NTU4MDFOUUo3MlhCMkE1Nlcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Or you could preorder a fancy-ass HL super-duper high speed charger, sold on the site for years but never produced. (Who does that?!?!?)
They will probably be usb-d or usb-e when they are rolled out.

well there you go, much less likely to have that die than the hopper
most everything is good when working, externally charging the hopper batteries has been my go to for many reasons, so good advice and linkage

All these years after I preordered the FAHLSDHSC, for a whopping 35% off, already cashed back in, I don't think I really have the desk space or want for yet another shiny cylinder from the labs. I wonder if it ever will make it past this limbo, it is a pretty cool idea at least but especially in hindsight, it's probably definitely just a desperate cash grab gone wrong. It would be nice if they could make it right, because their gear is quality in terms of style. Form over function, perhaps beyond the limit.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Haven't heard of anyone running them down completely dead with no lights before now. Could that damage it? I usually get 4-5 hits over 4-5 hours and put the charging ring on it. It usually only takes between half an hour to an hour to charge. Don't want it to get too low and start flashing as that might interfere with getting a hit. Five hours might be normal for a totally dead one.

Most electronic devices using lithium batteries use power management hardware/software that controls things like the charging system. Sometimes built into the charger too. That’s how the device knows to stop the charge at 4.2 volts, and the CUT OFF VOLTAGE is chosen by the programmer, often 3.0-3.3 volts. Both the charge termination and cutoff voltage are for SAFTY. 2.5 volts is the lowest voltage used by the lithium battery manufacturers when they test capacity on new ones, and these specifications are listed in the battery sheets. (this information should always be made public and available).

You are not doing any damage to the device or battery running them till NO LIGHTS. At 3.0 volts, the battery is NOT “dead”, just not enough voltage left, and time to recharge. The Hoppers “low power” warning flashes are a good visual indicator that’s its time to recharge or replace the battery. I’ve found there may be enough power left at that point to finish a hit, not much more. The reason I kept powering it up a few times, till the unit would not power up, is I wanted to find this devices “cutoff voltage”, which as I’ve stated is 3.0 volts, and works correctly! If anyone has doubts about this, click the link in my SIG, one of the better sites with everything you might want to learn about batteries.

Also thanks for the charger recommendations, I listed the charger I have, in my earlier post when I tested the capacity of the four new GHB3 batteries I received, using an advanced analyzing charger “SkyRC MC3000”. I test and log all my new batteries, this way I can test them much later and can compare, thus knowing their actual condition and if they are at the end of their useful life.

The reason I’d like the included magnetic charger to work properly, is I would like to avoid taking the backend off as much as possible, and it’s very convenient to just dump the IO on the little Delta3D stand. You can cycle through your stock of batteries, which I normally do with most devices, or just continue to use the same one, you’ll get the same amount of life and bowls in the end. Of course this is for home use, on the road in portable mode, you would swap to a fresh one.

Thanks for the responses.

 

[vapviking]

Also thanks for the charger recommendations, I listed the charger I have, in my earlier post when I tested the capacity of the four new GHB3 batteries I received, using an advanced analyzing charger “SkyRC MC3000”. I test and log all my new batteries, this way I can test them much later and can compare, thus knowing their actual condition and if they are at the end of their useful life.

The reason I’d like the included magnetic charger to work properly, is I would like to avoid taking the backend off as much as possible, and it’s very convenient to just dump the IO on the little Delta3D stand. You can cycle through your stock of batteries, which I normally do with most devices, or just continue to use the same one, you’ll get the same amount of life and bowls in the end. Of course this is for home use, on the road in portable mode, you would swap to a fresh one.

Sorry I missed that about your charger. Do the batteries charge faster in that? or did they when you logged them in new?
I have a spare mag charge cable I can send as a loner if that would help you figgur this out. Maybe you could isolate the issue to either cable or back end? HL likes that kind of input and will respond to your "proof" by sending the thing you need. Hopefully.

All these years after I preordered the FAHLSDHSC, for a whopping 35% off, already cashed back in, I don't think I really have the desk space or want for yet another shiny cylinder from the labs. I wonder if it ever will make it past this limbo, it is a pretty cool idea at least but especially in hindsight, it's probably definitely just a desperate cash grab gone wrong. It would be nice if they could make it right, because their gear is quality in terms of style. Form over function, perhaps beyond the limit.

I scratched my head for a while over this FAHLSDHSC. Wtf is he talking about?
Now I see, it's that charger/paper weight dream they've be "selling".
Because after the first sentence, the rest of the paragraph could be about the entire Hopper Labs endeavor.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Sorry I missed that about your charger. Do the batteries charge faster in that? or did they when you logged them in new?
I have a spare mag charge cable I can send as a loner if that would help you figgur this out. Maybe you could isolate the issue to either cable or back end? HL likes that kind of input and will respond to your "proof" by sending the thing you need. Hopefully.


I scratched my head for a while over this FAHLSDHSC. Wtf is he talking about?
Now I see, it's that charger/paper weight dream they've be "selling".
Because after the first sentence, the rest of the paragraph could be about the entire Hopper Labs endeavor.

Very kind of you to offer a loner for testing. I’m going to write Scott first and see if he has any experience with this issue. Certainly eliminating the charger as the potential problem would be the first test. Problem solving is always about eliminating the easiest suspects first. If it’s the backend as I suspect, and I only own one, I would not want to return it for an indefinite time period. Just means I could not use the magnetic charger as designed, and I’d like to use it.

My charger is mostly all manual settings, so I can charge and discharge at most any rates I want. I’m not going to get to deep into the recommended rates for charging and discharging lithium batteries, but in general a 1C rate of a 750mAh lithium battery would be a “.75 amp” charge, done in one hour. If you are not in a hurry, most recommendations are a .5 charge rate, for some battery longevity. So for example, in my manual charger, I would use a charge rate of 1/2 of 750, I use a “.400 amp rate, close enough. I could easily determine the charge rate of the Hopper IO is programmed for if my charger was NOT pulse charging, taking 5 hours. But as a few of you have written that it takes close to 2 hours to charge an empty GHB3 battery using just the magnetic charger, that would equate to about the same safe charge rate of .5C, or a “.4 amp” charge, which is proper if working correctly.

I pray it’s the magnetic cable.... will let you know what I find. Thanks!

 

[MoltenTiger]

2.1amp 12watt iPad USB wall charger

Have you tried a different USB source to compare? I would have thought that an iPad brick would basically be ideal, and back in the Grasshopper days the initial UL listed charger brick/OEM charge cable combo recommendation I'm pretty sure referenced the old 5W iPhone bricks. My iPad brick is an older 10W version and I think this worked normally, but I haven't had much hands on time with the OEM charging cable. (I always thought I would use them having multiple units, but I never got in the habit).

I have seen the pulsing nature of the OEM charger and I believe I made some posts in the Grasshopper thread about it. I think that is normal, however it should still only take 1-2hrs to fully charge depending on the cell capacity and previous run time.

I did get a warranty replacement on my very first charger back in 2016, I had it plugged into a dodgy 12V cig lighter supply and the brick in the OEM charger made some funky noises and gave up the ghost.
I haven't had any issues with my Qualcomm QC3.0 spec replacement supply, or replacement charger, but in general you should expect different sources to behave differently with these charger cables as they seem to have the majority of the charge circuit bundled inside.

Given you have found the unit itself is still working normally and successfully cut the powerup at a fairly expected voltage limit (you should also see low power mode triggered at a higher voltage and occuring before flat battery indication further proving the power metering is working on the device side).

It's definitely worth enquiring with HL. Just expect untimely back and forth.

It seems there is an aspect of prioritising initial RMAs, the first contact has seemed to be the easiest to get rapid and painless solutions.
The big issue with warranty here comes from repeat issues and/or ineffective solutions. They can only offer so much I suppose. But they are the best contact for these types of issues. It's all proprietary and hard to troubleshoot even with spare parts, without documentation it's all guess work.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Have you tried a different USB source to compare? I would have thought that an iPad brick would basically be ideal, and back in the Grasshopper days the initial UL listed charger brick/OEM charge cable combo recommendation I'm pretty sure referenced the old 5W iPhone bricks. My iPad brick is an older 10W version and I think this worked normally, but I haven't had much hands on time with the OEM charging cable. (I always thought I would use them having multiple units, but I never got in the habit).

I have seen the pulsing nature of the OEM charger and I believe I made some posts in the Grasshopper thread about it. I think that is normal, however it should still only take 1-2hrs to fully charge depending on the cell capacity and previous run time.

I did get a warranty replacement on my very first charger back in 2016, I had it plugged into a dodgy 12V cig lighter supply and the brick in the OEM charger made some funky noises and gave up the ghost.
I haven't had any issues with my Qualcomm QC3.0 spec replacement supply, or replacement charger, but in general you should expect different sources to behave differently with these charger cables as they seem to have the majority of the charge circuit bundled inside.

Given you have found the unit itself is still working normally and successfully cut the powerup at a fairly expected voltage limit (you should also see low power mode triggered at a higher voltage and occuring before flat battery indication further proving the power metering is working on the device side).

It's definitely worth enquiring with HL. Just expect untimely back and forth.

It seems there is an aspect of prioritising initial RMAs, the first contact has seemed to be the easiest to get rapid and painless solutions.
The big issue with warranty here comes from repeat issues and/or ineffective solutions. They can only offer so much I suppose. But they are the best contact for these types of issues. It's all proprietary and hard to troubleshoot even with spare parts, without documentation it's all guess work.

Thanks, I have indeed tried multiple USB power supplies with various watt & amp output.

Having read every post in this thread, I knew what I might be getting into. Truth is, if they just do right by me, I may buy a 2nd one, then if there are any future issues, I would have a working one, while the other is in the hospital. I like it enough so far, that a backup unit is not out of the question. We will see......

 

[MoltenTiger]

Thanks, I have indeed tried multiple USB power supplies with various watt & amp output.

Having read every post in this thread, I knew what I might be getting into. Truth is, if they just do right by me, I may buy a 2nd one, then if there are any future issues, I would have a working one, while the other is in the hospital. I like it enough so far, that a backup unit is not out of the question. We will see......

I thought you would have. A pity it wasn't so simple, although better not to have problematic USB power adapters.

The units themselves are nice and having multiple is a good option if you can make sense of it. Do note that 2 is not enough to guarantee uptime, but it goes a long way in ironing out the creases.

The main nuisance is the different performance between units, meaning there is usually a golden sample and performance go-to amongst any number of units, so when that one goes off it is almost missed as much as ever. The back-ups just won't hit the same.
However given the unique spec here, it's still better having multiple than relying on nearly any other portable as the back-up.

And you might get lucky and get two golden samples that are indistinguishable. I think that is too much luck to ever expect sadly, but hey it's a better gamble than most.