Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

[stark1]

Ohh-hh. Me likee Purple. or /Blue. Or /Gold. Enclosures.

 

[TommyDee]

The Candy Apple Red and a Burnt Orange is missing

See what happens when you give an inch...
"Sure son, you can have any color you like,
as long as it's black."
Paraphrased; Henry Ford
​

 

[stark1]

OK. I’ll take default Black.

Or candy apple Red! Am going wimpsy, and gettin weak, just thinking about it.

On the charger: 12V, and at least 3.5Amps?

 

[TommyDee]

Think in watts @Stark1 - Ideally the Flix has a range. For the full monty, you want what 120 watts? The variable brick is 12v @ 10 amps which means it will toast your cap mightily or it can gently bake the bread. But if a gentle baking is what you want, and you find yourself cooking at around 9 volts, You might be able to use a much lighter brick of say 96 watts or like me, a 65 watt brick (which is actually limited to 77 watts). I am finding a 60 watt bake to be very pleasant. I'm also finding that when it comes to power bricks, size matters to the user. I'm one of those. This is where batteries have all kinds of advantages.

And the correct term is power source or power adapter as the charger implies batteries and negates the power required to operate the device.

Fuck! That sounded like it came right out of a manual, didn't it!​

 

[letter never sent]

Anyone heard back from Fluxer after trying to get on the waiting/wish list for the Flix?

I don’t think he is doing a waiting list for the Flix, unless I missed something?

 

[mr_cfromcali]

On the charger: 12V, and at least 3.5Amps?

Think in watts @Stark1 - Ideally the Flix has a range. For the full monty, you want what 120 watts? The variable brick is 12v @ 10 amps which means it will toast your cap mightily or it can gently bake the bread. But if a gentle baking is what you want, and you find yourself cooking at around 9 volts, You might be able to use a much lighter brick of say 96 watts or like me, a 65 watt brick (which is actually limited to 77 watts). I am finding a 60 watt bake to be very pleasant. I'm also finding that when it comes to power bricks, size matters to the user. I'm one of those. This is where batteries have all kinds of advantages.

And the correct term is power source or power adapter as the charger implies batteries and negates the power required to operate the device. Fuck! That sounded like it came right out of a manual, didn't it!

So a couple of notes on this subject:

At full power (12.6VDC) the Flix heater will draw around 93 watts. You can run it with much less power than that, as @TommyDee explained, if you reduce the operating voltage, and most users will probably find that they enjoy a mix of both low and regular voltage use. For example, you might enjoy starting a bowl at 8V for a heating cycle or two, then 10V, then 12V, or something similar.

The other thing to keep in mind is the safety note I mentioned earlier regarding the Flix's fuses: Due to the way fuses work, a fuse will only blow when the power being demanded through it exceeds the power level for which it is rated. The fuse's power rating doesn't change just because you are using less voltage, and a 9A fuse still needs more than 9A of current to trip. In practical terms, this means you can't blow the Flix's 8.5A fuse with a 6A power supply. If you are using a PSU that is incapable of outputting at least 10A of power and there's a short circuit, something else will act as the fuse in that situation.

I don’t think he is doing a waiting list for the Flix, unless I missed something?

Correct - I am not doing a waiting list for the Flix. You can sign up for email notification here (https://fluxerheaters.com/flix), and I'll let you know when they go on sale - I have not sent any info via that link yet, but expect to begin doing so this week.

In broad terms, my plan is to open a store on my web site, make the Flix in batches, and then sell them through this store. The first batch I put up for sale will be 30-60 heaters (need to see how well things scale), with 5-10 in each color. I'll see how that goes, and re-evaluate and adjust my plans as necessary. I also plan on offering some Flux Deluxe heaters through the store, too - I have a few Standard models that were ordered but never paid for, plus a small box of blemished cases that would become blemished heaters and sold through the web store. Now that the technical issues with the Flix are resolved - fingers crossed - standing up the store is the next task I need to complete before I can start selling Flixes. I expect to post more details on how this store and process will work within a few days. Thanks for your patience.

I feel like I'm wearing a lot of hats at the moment, lol...

 

[TommyDee]

In the case of insufficient power to blow the fuse, the power supply will take the grunt [See note below cool image below for clarification!]. It is already safety rated to fail on a short circuit. That is one of the test that gives it a CE rating. Some supplies, like mine, will go into a clean fold-back condition anytime you exceed the output and you can do this continuously. But really, the fuses are there to keep the Flix from causing problems. And if the Flix can cause problems at 8 amps (say it is stuck on continuous as a single fault) then the thermal fuse takes over because that would be the primary fault the Flix can introduce that is more hazardous than a straight up short circuit. It generally requires two faults for that to occur with general design practices in mind.

However I am considering a condition where you have a 9V power brick at 65 watts and the Flix draws 6.5 amps [example]. Just about 60 watts which is a great roast temp. It will never stress the Flix. If the Flix draws anything over 65 watts [or whatever it wants to pump out] then the internal fuses are moot which is fine. It is the other use cases for which the fuses are there. The 96 watt unit that just happened to see a half inch bolt and pumped out 137 watts at its peak ...because it happened to be a very efficient build that Monday at the power brick supplier's shop. Still, the onus is on the supply to not burn up on an overload, including a short circuit. But the Flix on the other hand is expected in all certainty to be safe in such a condition, and that is where the fuses come in. The half inch bolt is a single fault failure of a user action. In this case, the overpowered brick would not have to suffer an overload.

These are two acceptable protection schemes. Your thermal fuse is still the primary protection in my view. The fuses just help prevent fire which is well contained on its own.

 

[IvanChesnokov]

This is important, as the capacitance of the circuit plays a role in choosing the size of the coil to use, and I couldn't move on to coil size until I settled the capacitor issue. At the moment, I am planning on using the 16mm x 2mm insert as the default size for the Flix. the 16mm x 2mm size is my mildest, least aggressive coil size. It works well with both ti and SS tips at every voltage level, so it seems like the obvious choice.

Am I correct in thinking this is the thick walled 16mm coil?

 

[stark1]

Is there an option for an external battery pack for the Flix. Stationary/corded is the boring doldrums
For the active stoner.

Also, is there a source for extra fuses for the heavy handed/ klutz owner/user?

 

[TommyDee]

..and I should clarify something I said. I said look at watts but the final determining factor is the required rating. You cannot use a 12v power brick that is under-powered to deliver less volts. That is abuse of the brick. You can use a brick designed to function within the range of the device it is powering. In this case, normal use of a Flix with a 9 volt input will probably draw well under 70 watts. If the output is a fixed 9 volts, you will not exceed the design requirements of the Flix or the power supply. Putting stuff in the Flix not intended for the Flix is on you.

 

[Zoltani]

I know with the flux deluxe i didn't get any confirmation that I'd signed up. Just had to have the faith.

@TommyDee I thought that was an IH at first where it says input.

 

[stark1]

While the GoalZero is an impressive overkill, I am looking to minimize the profile of the Flix, not maximize.

Will a 12v 6.8A battery pack be adequate to power the Flix on the go? Short answer, please, ‘Tonne

 

[mr_cfromcali]

While the GoalZero is an impressive overkill, I am looking to minimize the profile of the Flix, not maximize.

Will a 12v 6.8A battery pack be adequate to power the Flix on the go? Short answer, please, ‘Tonne

With “only” 6.8A, I don’t think that power source will have enough juice at 12V. At 12V I think you need at least 9A.

 

[TommyDee]

While the GoalZero is an impressive overkill, I am looking to minimize the profile of the Flix, not maximize.

Will a 12v 6.8A battery pack be adequate to power the Flix on the go? Short answer, please, ‘Tonne

I could make that supply work but not to 12v. What is important in a brick supply is that it doesn't keep trying to push power when it can't keep up. Not all supplies do that. I know my little laptop supplies do this because they are high quality engineered little bricks. If I stay within their specifications, they'll run an IH at varying power levels. A DC-DC converter is a big part of that. That is what the bricks have in them with the voltage adjustment. But here @mr_cfromcali is absolutely right; he cannot spec for us sub-parr supply for his applications. 12v 10a is the rating he has chosen so the Flix will never stress the brick. That assumes of course nothing changes between now and release.

Having said that I did do some sourcing to find what was available on the market. I found a beauty! MeanWell, which has become a dominant player in the power converter industry, is offering a 9 volt brick at 6 amps for around $22 -here-. This is 54 watts. A very slow roast -if- the Flix cooperates. What does that mean? When the final version of the Flix comes out, and put the hottest tip in the cup and you make sure 9v is getting to the circuit board, and take a current measurement of the power being drawn. If that measurement is solidly under 54 watts, or 6 amps, then this heater would qualify for a very slow roasting IH. What range is reasonable for an IH? 45-55 watts is a usable range for real-time drawing while firing depending on draw resistance. This is the one of two reasons to consider this option. The second reason is that the brick is much smaller. In my crowded little world, size matters.

So will the Flix settle on a good range for the 9V input? I suspect so. 9V is about the cutoff for the Flux Deluxe when the cells need charging. Worst case, it will need the next size 9v brick which is 9v @ 8a / 72 watts. Less passionate about those offerings.

In my personal IH studies I am finding that dialing in the circuit to available power sources is a luxury that can pay off in design. I still see a divide between the low temp cap users and the bud rippers. That is my reason for offering ideas to tackle this from both sides.

 

[stark1]

Thank you both for your informative responses.

I am hoping to power the small Flix with an equally small power-pac, a minimal footprint.

Seems one way to do so is to go to a 12V, 9.8Amp battery—a bigger package, with added weight.

Wondering if a Li-poly RC battery would make a smaller footprint.

Perhaps mr_c could suggest a power-pac to use with his small Flix.

Or design a portable version to be used in the field.

 

[TommyDee]

There are options in this direction as well. Easiest is the readily available packs. 12v 10a capable and you're set. You know those little cells that power the PSM? They'd work too. I'm running an IH with 3 little AA sized cells. They just won't last the whole day. So no, the footprint can be made a lot smaller with chemistry. The only limitation is safety of such solutions. Recognized products is your safest bet in that case. Someone will have to step up to come up with some comprehensive power sources. They'd work on a lot offerings out there. Even got acceptance from Lucid to use the power pack products using batteries.

Li-Po cable

Now here's a nice little brick - MeanWell no less; https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/PWM-120(DA)/PWM-120(DA)-SPEC.PDF
This is voltage controllable to 10V and up to the job at hand. It is rather slim at 2-1/2" x 1-1/2" girth and 8 inches long.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Perhaps mr_c could suggest a power-pac to use with his small Flix.

Or design a portable version to be used in the field.

Been there, done that.

Seriously, though, the Flix is designed to be a desktop heater. You can power it from other DC power sources if they can provide enough current, and these might include an external battery pack or an automotive cigarette lighter, but it was not designed to be a standalone portable heater. I'm certainly not stopping you from using it that way, but this device lacks the built-in battery management system that the Flux Deluxe has, which is worth remembering.

I will also say that to the extent I have looked into this question - which is only a little, tbh - I would think a 12V drill battery pack and charger setup would be a good companion to this. DeWalt and Panasonic make 12V drill battery packs. Buy a pair of 12V DeWalt battery packs, a dedicated charger for them, and a battery pack dock like this one: Power Dock for DeWalt 12V Battery holder Mount wired 14AWG DIY USA D12-14 706782805023 | eBay . You'll be stylin', as we used to say...

I am sure others will have some input on tis once these become available and other people start using these in the real world.

 

[TommyDee]

...And it is exactly because it has no BMS [& associated battery pack] installed that the Flix is a new critter. How's the testing on the variable brick going? Are you aware of that yet @Stark1 ?

Okay, not to put you on the spot @mr_cfromcali but to satisfy @Stark1 's concerns, you could consider the Flix as a surgically separated head from the body. The body carries batteries and BMS and the only thing needed to bring the severed halves back to life is a cord and a plug. Is there a matching metal box that would house the 3x 18650 setup nicely as a Fluxer Original Accessory? That would change the wall unit paradigm Okay, but who would want that besides @Stark1?

 

[Naturesvapor]

...And it is exactly because it has no BMS [& associated battery pack] installed that the Flix is a new critter. How's the testing on the variable brick going? Are you aware of that yet @Stark1 ?

Okay, not to put you on the spot @mr_cfromcali but to satisfy @Stark1 's concerns, you could consider the Flix as a surgically separated head from the body. The body carries batteries and BMS and the only thing needed to bring the severed halves back to life is a cord and a plug. Is there a matching metal box that would house the 3x 18650 setup nicely as a Fluxer Original Accessory? That would change the wall unit paradigm Okay, but who would want that besides @Stark1?

Me!! Was actually hoping for something like this. (New to this forum but have been watching for a while). It would be amazing if they were the same size/enclosure. That being said I was planning to do research to find my own battery pack to use when I'm not home or in my car, but as somewhat of a noob in electronics it would be amazing to have a designates battery pack or be given info on the best (imo smallest and strongest) battery pack that can be purchased else where. Would also like to say I'm really looking forward to the flux and the appreciate all the hard work Mr. C does.

 

[TommyDee]

Welcome to the new FC @Naturesvapor You know we're gonna have to clone Mr. C! Let's see if the Flix will be heavy duty lighter plug cable capable. That way the car is covered.

 

[Naturesvapor]

Welcome to the new FC @Naturesvapor You know we're gonna have to clone Mr. C! Let's see if the Flix will be heavy duty lighter plug cable capable. That way the car is covered.

Thanks Tommy, Definitely gonna be goin hard in on the car cable!

 

[stark1]

...And it is exactly because it has no BMS [& associated battery pack] installed that the Flix is a new critter. How's the testing on the variable brick going? Are you aware of that yet @Stark1 ?

Okay, not to put you on the spot @mr_cfromcali but to satisfy @Stark1 's concerns, you could consider the Flix as a surgically separated head from the body. The body carries batteries and BMS and the only thing needed to bring the severed halves back to life is a cord and a plug. Is there a matching metal box that would house the 3x 18650 setup nicely as a Fluxer Original Accessory? That would change the wall unit paradigm Okay, but who would want that besides @Stark1?

Well! Until a truly portable magheater is marketed, its back to the ole trusty (but hea-vee) PSM.

 

[TommyDee]

Working hard on the truly portable for you @Stark1

Wait, weight is "truly" portable that the Fluxer and PSM isn't?

 

[stark1]

That’s what she said.

 

[TommyDee]

So you have the answer I've been looking for @Stark1 - Since the balance of weight v. battery life is a tricky one in such a product, what is your 'perfect balance"?