Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

[akit4so]

Oh finally opened the thread in new forum!
So interesting about Flix!
Nice to meet you again all and @mr_cfromcali !

 

[Terpenetime]

@mr_cfromcali have you ever thought of doing a heater with two coils?

 

[mr_cfromcali]

OK, might as well get this party started.

Here's the new thing I hinted at earlier. It's NOT the Flix - I'm gonna post a lot more on that model very soon.

Meet the Fluxer Duo. This isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea. but this came about because I wanted one, and I feel it's at a point where I can show it and see if anyone else is interested. The basic idea is two coils of any size, in a single portable unit. Same Fluxer circuitry. FWIW, it uses the Flux Deluxe's power relays due to space considerations, rather than the Flix's lower voltage-capable relays.

Please enjoy the video and let me know what you think.

 

[Mono Loco]

The Duo model provides two different options, regarding heating behavior due to different coil parameters, right? I assume it is not designed for simultaneous use of both coils by two different DynaVaps ... not for two buddies to enjoy at once. If so, I imagine that once one of the coils is activated, the other can't be activated. Yeh?

EDIT !!! D'oh ... I didn't realize the pic was actually a video. I will watch it and my question will probably be answered!
EDIT !!! Of COURSE my Q was answered!

Since I don't believe I can delete my irrelevant post, I'll ask another question. Can the DUO also be used as a desktop AC powered (AC/DC transformer brick, "wall-wart", Power Supply adapter) ? Thanks!

 

[MAbud]

LOVE the Duo

really enjoying my two new fluxs and will have more to post soon on my experiments with cool sizing, lowering, wtc

and huge shout out to @mr_cfromcali! He’s a really good dude

 

[Baron23]

@mr_cfromcali

"the earliest (and only) email I have with the address you provided - which is a waiting list form - is from August 29, 2019."

This ^^ was to me.

I'm currently building Flux Deluxe portable induction heaters for people who got on the waiting list on or anytime before: August 14, 2019.

You're killing me, Smalls!! hahaha

 

[mr_cfromcali]

@mr_cfromcali

You're killing me, Smalls!! hahaha

A lot of poeple added themselves to the FD waiting list in the second half of August, so I had to split late August into two cohorts. I’m up to August 24, FWIW, but the link to update my signature has disappeared. I expect to send emails to the remaining August folks this week. I’ll have more news and progress to share soon as soon as I can get a post together.

And don’t worry, I’m still making FDs, and am about to make a bunch of Flixes. This was just a side project brought on by cabin fever in the current lockdown. I wasn't sure it would see the light of day, but once I got into the challenge of it and made a working prototype, I decided to go for it and bring it to its current state. Like I said previously, I think it’s both stupid and clever, but it does work well - pretty damn, actually. This was fun to do just for the fun of designing it, and now that it exists maybe a few other people will want one. A project definitely NOT driven by any kind of market research, lol.

I have one more side project behind this one, based on something I learned while making the Flix. I'm very eager for those circuit boards to get here - they are in transit now - as that project may be even cooler than this one, although like this one, it's also not very...svelte. I hope to share the next project, too, as soon as I can get it to work.

Fluxer Heaters’ main effort, though, is building Flux Deluxes and Flixes. I have plenty of parts on hand for both, and am just waiting for the Flix cases and switches, which my vendor says are stil a few weeks out.

Thanks for your support! More to come in a bit.

 

[Baron23]

A lot of poeple added themselves to the FD waiting list in the second half of August, so I had to split late August into two cohorts. I’m up to August 24, FWIW, but the link to update my signature has disappeared. I expect to send emails to the remaining August folks this week. I’ll have more news and progress to share soon as soon as I can get a post together.

And don’t worry, I’m still making FDs, and am about to make a bunch of Flixes. This was just a side project brought on by cabin fever in the current lockdown. I wasn't sure it would see the light of day, but once I got into the challenge of it and made a working prototype, I decided to go for it and bring it to its current state. Like I said previously, I think it’s both stupid and clever, but it does work well - pretty damn, actually. This was fun to do just for the fun of designing it, and now that it exists maybe a few other people will want one. A project definitely NOT driven by any kind of market research, lol.

I have one more side project behind this one, based on something I learned while making the Flix. I'm very eager for those circuit boards to get here - they are in transit now - as that project may be even cooler than this one, although like this one, it's also not very...svelte. I hope to share the next project, too, as soon as I can get it to work.

Fluxer Heaters’ main effort, though, is building Flux Deluxes and Flixes. I have plenty of parts on hand for both, and am just waiting for the Flix cases and switches, which my vendor says are stil a few weeks out.

Thanks for your support! More to come in a bit.

Thanks, mate...and you know I was just having a bit of fun with you, right? haha

I look forward to getting my email this coming week or soon after.

Have a great day.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Some Flix updates for your Saturday

I need to start this update with a HUGE shoutout to @TommyDee , who saw the Flix introduction video a few weeks ago and immediately wrote me a PM to lobby me to change the Flix's power relay to one with a lower operating voltage. He was very persuasive. Unfortunately for me, by the time he PM'd me I had already approved the final locations for Flix's power and switch holes, so any changes I wanted to make to the PCB layout had to be made without moving the DC jack or the on/off switch from their present positions. This wasn't easy, as I had to find a relay that met the new power specs and would also fit in the Flix's small case, but I did it, and the results were completely worth the effort. Implementing @TommyDee's suggestion took my (imho) already solid device and absolutely brought it to another level of performance. - I am stunned at the way the Flix performs at low voltage, and I think you will be, too. But more on that in a moment.

I was worried I would have to omit the on/off switch to make the new relay fit - a move that would save me some coin on components, but about which I wasn't too thrilled, as I think a device capable of drawing 9A of power should have a dedicated on/off switch. Anyway, I moved stuff around and was able to find an arrangement that carved out room for the new relay while also keeping the on/off switch.

Here's the result - the new Filx PCB is at bottom, and the earlier PCB at top:

The white rectangular object is the power relay, and you can see that the new one is twice as big as the old one! The good news - and I can't stress this enough - is that the new part fits great and the swap was very well worth the effort! The way this device operates at low voltage is going surprise you. You guys are going to lose your minds over this thing, in the best way possible.



The Flix is still on track for an early June debut, starting at $115, power supply and shipping not included. The base version will do all of the important stuff but offer limited customization options, while a more customizable version will follow as soon as I get the first few Flix batches out the door. I'll share more details on the ordering process as I finalize them.

Now, about that power supply and low voltage operation: With the new power relay, the Flix will operate on any voltage from about 7.8VDC to 12.6VDC. You really, really want to try this thing at ~8V - it's a revelation! Big clouds, almost no risk of combustion, and truly outstanding flavor! The experience is similar to what I was getting from my first PWM controlled IH units about 2 years ago, and it'll put a big, stupid smile on your face.

My initial plans were to only sell the heaters and let you folks source the power supplies, but the low voltage operation of the Flix is such a game changer that I want to change that equation a bit: I have discovered what I think is the perfect PSU for this device, a simple Chinese-made adjustable voltage power supply that will make it very easy for you use the Flix with variable voltage. These 10A PSUs have a 3VDC-to-12VDC variable output, an integrated digital voltage meter, and a prominent, simple, user-friendly adjustment knob. . . .

This is the PSU:

Banggood.com link: Minleaf ML-PA03 3-12V 10A Display Regulated AC/DC Adapter Switching Power Supply Adapter Power Adapter Electrical Equipment & Supplies from Tools, Industrial & Scientific on banggood.com

Same power supply on eBay: Power supply adapter Adjustable AC to DC3-12V 10A Converter adapter switching | eBay

It is also available on AliExpress.com, alibaba.com, dhgate.com, etc. Pay attention to the current output AND the voltage, as they sell several versions. The 3VDC-12VDC/10A version I show above is the one you need.

I have decided to order some of these with US/North American plugs to sell as a separate add-on item with the Flix, for people who want the convenience of buying a power supply at the same time as the heater. I will probably need to sell these for $30 or $35 each, as I will need to buy these in quantity and pay for shipping, so expect some markup in my final price - sorry, but that's just how this stuff works. It will also cost more to ship the Flix with one of these than it will without it, due to the added bulk and shipping weight. I'll do my best to make this available and keep the price reasonable, but if you buy this from me it will cost a few $ more.

I am telling you this now so that those of you who know you want to buy a Flix and also want to get the most out of using it can order one of these power supply units now from a cheaper source and have it in time for the Flix's debut. You will also save some money on shipping if you buy it from a place like banggood.com and have it shipped to you directly.

A final note - these power supplies are currently hard wired with mains plugs that are region-specific - the manufacturer does not use a universal IEC connector, unfortunately - so there are different models for the US, UK, EU, and AUS mains configurations. Please see the banggood.com link above for further links to each of these regional plug styles! This is another reason why I only plan on stocking the US version of this PSU: it really doesn't make sense for me to have EU, UK, and AUS-only units shipped from China to me, and then ask you to pay to have them shipped from California to the UK, EU, or AUS. It'll cost you $40+ per PSU by the time it's traveled from China to me and then to you. These are also heavier than the charging adapters I carry for the FD, plus they cost about 4x the price of the FD's charging adapters. These are reasons why I'm confident you will do better - and save money - ordering them directly from the supplier.

OK, that's the biggest news I have to share regarding the Flix at the moment. I am still putting things in place for its debut - I am working on setting up a web store, for instance, and also need to finalize how I am going to ship these, what that shipping will cost, etc. - but this should bring you up to date on the most important news.

I'll have more info on the various power supply options for it as we get a bit closer to its debut, but here's the TL;DR of this is post:

if you expect to buy a Flix, consider ordering one of these variable voltage PSUs now, so you can have it on hand for the Flix's arrival.

I have a few updates on the Flux Deluxe as well, but I just dumped a ton of info on you guys, so I'll save the FD stuff for a future post. Thanks for reading, and thanks for your interest in my heaters!

Cheers,

 

[Mono Loco]

You continue to both impress and honor us with your efforts - what a great role model for others to follow!

1. The new board is rev. 1.2, the other is 1.0. Was there a 1.1 ?
2. The coil size increased .. is that the "standard" Flix coil now, or an option ... or, maybe, "both" depending on whether you're gonna' have an "off the shelf" version and custom versions?
3. What is the jack size on the flix - 5.5x2.1 or 5.5x2.5mm?

 

[TommyDee]

I'm a sucka for gadget innards Looks great Jeff!

..oh, dual uber-fluxer, what can I say. You got a buddy you want to do rips with, you should be able to do rips at the same time, don't you think? Yep, had a similar thought yet different. I like yours better.

 

[someTooL]

My notes say I jumped on the list ~ 10/8/19. With the status above I am now getting really excited.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

You continue to both impress and honor us with your efforts - what a great role model for others to follow!

1. The new board is rev. 1.2, the other is 1.0. Was there a 1.1 ?
2. The coil size increased .. is that the "standard" Flix coil now, or an option ... or, maybe, "both" depending on whether you're gonna' have an "off the shelf" version and custom versions?
3. What is the jack size on the flix - 5.5x2.1 or 5.5x2.5mm?

Great questions, @ Mono Loco !

1. The new board is rev. 1.2, the other is 1.0. Was there a 1.1 ?

My numbering scheme is my own, but in general, major revs get their own point number. Version 1.0 used the original power relay, while version 1.1 and 1.2 use the new one. In version 1.1, the new power relay was located in the center of the PCB as that was the easiest place to put it, but I became worried it would interfere with the push button, which needs some room under it for clearance. The best place to put the new relay was to either side, so I made another variation (v1.2x) with it in its present location. Thankfully I was able to make it all fit. The reconfiguration also let me add a JST micro header connector for the push button, which will make PCB installation, coil adjustment, and any repairs a lot easier for all of us.

2. The coil size increased .. is that the "standard" Flix coil now, or an option ... or, maybe, "both" depending on whether you're gonna' have an "off the shelf" version and custom versions?

Flix coil size needs its own extended topic - and I am still evaluating the options, btw - but in short, if you are using variable voltage, you probably want to use a hotter coil - either 15mm or 16mm/thin walled (~1.5mm walls) - as the variable voltage will take as much edge off the coil as you wish, and you'll appreciate the control the hotter coil will give you at lower voltages. If one is using a regular 12V/10A power brick, one probably wants to use my mildest coil, which is the 16mm/mid thickness (2mm walls), which is the same insert used in the PSM. It pairs nicely with the consistently "hot" 12.6VDC supplied by the typical mains-powered brick. I'll talk about this more after I receive some of the PSU's to which I linked and can make some videos demonstrating the performnace and resulting ABV using the difference power sources.

3. What is the jack size on the flix - 5.5x2.1 or 5.5x2.5mm?

Great question, and one that I have also spent some time pondering. :thinker: I have DC jacks in both sizes on hand, as this is still an open question. I will most likely choose the size that matches the tip of the variable voltage PSU to which I linked - that's really the best way to use this heater but I want to have some of the PSUs on hand before I make the call, and they aren't here yet. I think this PSU ships with the 2.5mm x 5.5mm version . In either case, I will include a simple male-female adapter for the other size as well, so that whichever way I go, you will be able to use either size tip with the Flix, as long as said tip is center-positive.

 

[TommyDee]

Found this on a similar offering. That may describe the odd 5.5x2.5 call. Note the bottom comment. Standard "Arduino" age power connectors today are 5.5x2.1.

 

[letter never sent]

The Flix sounds awesome. I already have a VVPS, but it runs from 3-24v. Is there risk of damaging the device if you accidentally went above 12.6v? I already need to be mindful of the voltage since I use it with my Woodscents, but I'm curious.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Good question, @letter never sent. The ZVS circuit is good to ~15VDC. I am not which components might fail at 24V, butI think it would include the coil on the Flix’s power relay, among other things.

 

[TommyDee]

@letter never sent - which supply are you considering? Indeed 24V would be an issue. I set my voltage before firing or before turning the unit on. Does your power source have a voltage meter?

 

[letter never sent]

@letter never sent - which supply are you considering? Indeed 24V would be an issue. I set my voltage before firing or before turning the unit on. Does your power source have a voltage meter?

it’s the VVPS Ed sells for the Woodscents. Very similar to the one @mr_cfromcali linked above, only it goes up to 24v. Like you said, can always just set the voltage and leave it alone.

 

[lookhigh]

Interesting stuff ahead.
Still would love a baby flux delux. @TommyDee knows his induction heaters.

 

[TommyDee]

@lookhigh - knowing and making are two sides of the coin. @mr_cfromcali is just ON in the shop. Very much looking forward to the Flix debut.

@letter never sent - There is a DIY solution I've been working with that is a really nice converter. I ran into one version that has an internal switch to limit the upper end to 12V, and the sw/pot is on a cable.
Basically you can marry this converter to any brick capable of putting out enough power. I have a 19V 65W brick that put out 75W comfortably (HP laptop brick) because it is an OEM unit that will easily function at its rated output. 3rd party bricks aren't so kind. Salvage laptop bricks is a DIY haven for reliable and compact bricks. Anyway, the converter I got is this one - Remains very cool during VC heating.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-XL40...077350?hash=item286d568066:g:tC4AAOSwypZb5tab

Nice thing about buck drivers is that they never output more than the input. With a 12v brick, you can never over power the IH. Likewise, this device protect the user from UI error by hard-switching the 12 volt max. At the same time, the usable range of the potentiometer has increased making it very user friendly. I have the one without the switch and it is very touchy. I'm using a 19V brick which this driver manages with ease.

Out of the box, this is probably the best DIY module for variable IH power available for the least cost. If you have a pension for making boxes, and/or you have a pile of old 'I'll use it someday' discarded power bricks in the 65-120 watt range. This will power the Flix. Get one built before the Debut. Ship with SpeedPak from China. I'm averaging 2 weeks.

My little side-arm companion for when I want to dial in my VC experience -Since the cable was compatible, I just cut the cord and spliced in the converter unit.

 

[bossman]

CIVILIZED

 

[TommyDee]

"What are we having for dinner dear? Jack? GS-Cookies?"

 

[M3 Element]

CIVILIZED


View attachment 268

What size coil? It’s nice to see some pics with the external switch since you don’t see a lot of them.

 

[bossman]

What size coil? It’s nice to see some pics with the external switch since you don’t see a lot of them.

It's a 15mm. It heats more aggressively than my Jarhead and I can finish a vapcap in three or maybe four heat cycles.

 

[TommyDee]

OK, might as well get this party started.

Here's the new thing I hinted at earlier. It's NOT the Flix - I'm gonna post a lot more on that model very soon.

Meet the Fluxer Duo. This isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea. but this came about because I wanted one, and I feel it's at a point where I can show it and see if anyone else is interested. The basic idea is two coils of any size, in a single portable unit. Same Fluxer circuitry. FWIW, it uses the Flux Deluxe's power relays due to space considerations, rather than the Flix's lower voltage-capable relays.

Please enjoy the video and let me know what you think.

I just realized you were going to offer this. Silly question; can you fire both bays at once?