Zoltani
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the offer, but I don't think I could send it in and be without for such a minor issue. I'll try regluing it myself. Those magnets are powerful!
Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap
- Thread starter mr_cfromcali
- Start date
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- Tags
- induction heater
Thank you for the offer, but I don't think I could send it in and be without for such a minor issue. I'll try regluing it myself. Those magnets are powerful!
No, you will not harm or discharge the batteries by leaving it "on", as the on position doesn't draw any add'l power until you activate the trigger. This is unlike the Flux Deluxe, which has a small power drain when 'on' but not actively in use*. With the Flite, the BMS may draw a few mA at idle if I recall correctly (@TommyDee can correct me on this), but otherwise it is not consuming power at Full or Pulse positions, unless the heater is active.
The Full/Pulse/Off switch is like a safety switch and makes it possible to activate the heater. Off is a NULL position for the push button and the cap-as-switch circuit. Full and Pulse are positions where the push button or cap-as-switch can activate the IH circuit, but only when they are pressed or the cap-as-switch contacts are connected.
Hopefully that helps?
*There is an optical switch in the battery meter circuit that draws 15mA whenever the FD is On.
Magnet info
As more Flite make their way out into the world, I want to take a moment and share some info on the N52 magnets that hold the lid to the body.
Neodymium magnets are strong little buggers!
They mostly stay in place, but because aluminum expands and contracts with heat they can sometimes come loose.
I have been wrangling these into FD cases for the last several years, and my techniques have gotten a lot better over time. I will be happy to re-glue any of your magnets that come loose, but of course that will require returning the case to me for the fix, and not everyone wants to part with their heater for a few days for this sort of thing.
If you need to reattach a magnet and want to give a try yourself, here are some things I can share to make this task easier:
• Remove the heater form the case first!!!!! Don't bring super glue near your heater, you won't be happy if you make a mistake with it. You can easily clean super glue from aluminum with solvent. The same can't be said for the circuit board.
• Loctite Gel Control super glue is pretty good. It's easy to apply, which is a big deal. The KISS Molecular Adhesive I recommended earlier in this thread is a little more reliable and the "flexible" in its name does seem to handle aluminum expansion OK, but the Loctite is cheaper, easy to apply, and will adhere well.
• Use a Sharpie to mark the side of the magnet that needs to go into the hole, then stick the magnet to a piece of Scotch tape, marked side up. Apply a drop of glue into the hole, then place the magnet-on-tape into the hole, marked side down. The tape is there to hold the magnet in place and also help you separate the parts afterwards. Once installed and taped, you can put the lid on and clamp the whole thing together.
• I allow ~45 minutes for the glue to set up (with the adhesive I use), then I separate the lid and clean off the tape. To remove the excess glue, I soak the case in GoofOff solvent for 30 minutes (60 minutes max, or you will be re-gluing another magnet). Acetone will also work. The excess glue will fall away easily with a paper towel or an old toothbrush.
I hope that helps, but if you have any magnets come loose and need help with them, please contact me.
As more Flite make their way out into the world, I want to take a moment and share some info on the N52 magnets that hold the lid to the body.
Neodymium magnets are strong little buggers!
They mostly stay in place, but because aluminum expands and contracts with heat they can sometimes come loose.
I have been wrangling these into FD cases for the last several years, and my techniques have gotten a lot better over time. I will be happy to re-glue any of your magnets that come loose, but of course that will require returning the case to me for the fix, and not everyone wants to part with their heater for a few days for this sort of thing.
If you need to reattach a magnet and want to give a try yourself, here are some things I can share to make this task easier:
• Remove the heater form the case first!!!!! Don't bring super glue near your heater, you won't be happy if you make a mistake with it. You can easily clean super glue from aluminum with solvent. The same can't be said for the circuit board.
• Loctite Gel Control super glue is pretty good. It's easy to apply, which is a big deal. The KISS Molecular Adhesive I recommended earlier in this thread is a little more reliable and the "flexible" in its name does seem to handle aluminum expansion OK, but the Loctite is cheaper, easy to apply, and will adhere well.
• Use a Sharpie to mark the side of the magnet that needs to go into the hole, then stick the magnet to a piece of Scotch tape, marked side up. Apply a drop of glue into the hole, then place the magnet-on-tape into the hole, marked side down. The tape is there to hold the magnet in place and also help you separate the parts afterwards. Once installed and taped, you can put the lid on and clamp the whole thing together.
• I allow ~45 minutes for the glue to set up (with the adhesive I use), then I separate the lid and clean off the tape. To remove the excess glue, I soak the case in GoofOff solvent for 30 minutes (60 minutes max, or you will be re-gluing another magnet). Acetone will also work. The excess glue will fall away easily with a paper towel or an old toothbrush.
I hope that helps, but if you have any magnets come loose and need help with them, please contact me.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
BMS and parasitic power drain - should be none. There are two kinds of BMS. One that manages charging as if each cell is individual and another that makes sure that each cell is matched. The ladder will draw and use power as one cell sacrifices power to a 'lesser' cell. These are considered 'balance' circuits and are over and above normal BMS operation.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
On the Amazon page for the BMS it does say that the unit has less than 30uA of "Quiescent current", which when googled is the power consumed when the circuit is powered but not in a switching state. 
(Not that you dont know that term or anything... just had to search it myself and posted for others who dont know
)
(Not that you dont know that term or anything... just had to search it myself and posted for others who dont know
)
I appreciate the info, @Sn4Pz !
For context, here's some "power scale pedantry" for a Saturday afternoon. Just sharing this with the thread for what it is worth:
The Flite uses about 8A-9A of power at peak. The capital A in this case means "Amp."
A typical LED uses ~20mA of current. The "mA" = "milliamps". 1 mA = .001 Amps.
The BMS quiescent power draw is reported as ~30uA, or 30 "microamps". 1 microamp = .000001 Amps.
For context, here's some "power scale pedantry" for a Saturday afternoon. Just sharing this with the thread for what it is worth:
The Flite uses about 8A-9A of power at peak. The capital A in this case means "Amp."
A typical LED uses ~20mA of current. The "mA" = "milliamps". 1 mA = .001 Amps.
The BMS quiescent power draw is reported as ~30uA, or 30 "microamps". 1 microamp = .000001 Amps.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
I said it was very very small
@TommyDee here is the link, I waited for @mr_cfromcali to confirm I could share the link (and then took some extra time myself
). Sorry for the wait! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYS6RJJ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_EbXdGbA16S6ZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Prophecy
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the answer on my question, so it will only change the time how long the material get baked before reach the click so my observation by using a little the PWM-Mode.
Yes that helps, thank you for the throughfully explanation.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Correct @Prophecy . Induction heating is all about piling on heat, or technically, cumulatively piling on heat. PWM puts a pause in each cycle. This pause is realized as extended heating time, again, cumulatively.
These is such a thing as too hot and too cold for heaters. A heater too hot is inconsistent between caps. I have around a half dozen caps now and I rotate 4 regularly. A proper heater should treat all your 'good' caps [not cracked or abused] pretty much interchangeably. They will all hit different of course but the temperature should be within your preferred service level as to how you tuned the heater. Hyper-heaters can't do that. Heaters too cold brings in environmental conditions and even the contact area and material under the cap matters. It is very possible to keep the heat localized and not spread far enough to affect the clicker, ever. But not to worry, neither is the load - just terps. It takes a certain amount of energy to maintain an elevated temperature when all the other forces are trying to cool it down.
With handheld heaters, become familiar with the battery charge curve. Flite was specifically designed to make use of the cells down to 9V and beyond. 9V can be seen with very dimly lit LEDs. You might be able to push another click at that point but I recommend against it. This is Flite's "innate" battery meter. It works because this part of the usable battery range drops off voltage quickly. If the LEDs are set full bore, and when they reach nightlight brightness, Flite needs a charge.
Remember that battery voltage only matters when firing. If you have light-weight caps and some hotter caps, put the lightweight caps to task at the end of the battery cycle. These whimpy caps draw less current and therefore will hold up voltage a bit longer as internal resistance of the cells isn't as big of a factor. They just take a little longer at this point to heat up. Just a small tip for maximizing battery life from @TommyDee ;]
These is such a thing as too hot and too cold for heaters. A heater too hot is inconsistent between caps. I have around a half dozen caps now and I rotate 4 regularly. A proper heater should treat all your 'good' caps [not cracked or abused] pretty much interchangeably. They will all hit different of course but the temperature should be within your preferred service level as to how you tuned the heater. Hyper-heaters can't do that. Heaters too cold brings in environmental conditions and even the contact area and material under the cap matters. It is very possible to keep the heat localized and not spread far enough to affect the clicker, ever. But not to worry, neither is the load - just terps. It takes a certain amount of energy to maintain an elevated temperature when all the other forces are trying to cool it down.
With handheld heaters, become familiar with the battery charge curve. Flite was specifically designed to make use of the cells down to 9V and beyond. 9V can be seen with very dimly lit LEDs. You might be able to push another click at that point but I recommend against it. This is Flite's "innate" battery meter. It works because this part of the usable battery range drops off voltage quickly. If the LEDs are set full bore, and when they reach nightlight brightness, Flite needs a charge.
Remember that battery voltage only matters when firing. If you have light-weight caps and some hotter caps, put the lightweight caps to task at the end of the battery cycle. These whimpy caps draw less current and therefore will hold up voltage a bit longer as internal resistance of the cells isn't as big of a factor. They just take a little longer at this point to heat up. Just a small tip for maximizing battery life from @TommyDee ;]
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^^^
Thank you! Could not have said that any better myself!
Thank you! Could not have said that any better myself!
Moses Baca
Colorado State Reformatory #8755
Variable voltage PSU was pictured by @mr_cfromcali one page back.
Sorry, I can't help with the battery pack. Flux Deluxe and Flight are my portables.
Sorry, I can't help with the battery pack. Flux Deluxe and Flight are my portables.
The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
No problem getting in the grove with my new Flite. Even with different acting caps and tips. The Flite is such a pleasure to hold and use. 
I have the 12.6v 2 amp talent cell charger. Charges fast. I originally purchased for a battery I use to power a plug in IH.Thinking of just grabbing the car charger with the flite and grabbing that 2A charger posted on the previous page for day to day, 40 minutes full charge sounds sweet! Would love to hear approximate battery life from some real life users once they get settled in, I can't wait to make my order
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BIG I.
Well-Known Member
Greetings all,Flite #52 checking in here and its been a gas! I must say the unit has lived up to all my expectations,it roasts and toasts yielding fat juicy hits with 16mm coil set up rocking plenty hard enough for me.Still haven't put it through all its paces yet with different tips and caps etc.just ti tip with low temp cap.I know its going to be the beginning of a long and beautiful friendship.Also want to give a shout out to fellow fluxer who turned us on the hernit shell case from amazon.I love the little sleeping bag the Flite came with but this case will I think better serve for the had knocks of the road.Also this would not be complete without a shout to Mr._C. whom as we know is the FLUXMEISTER! Keep it irie my friends.Peace.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
A customer recently found this Flix-compatible adjustable PSU on Amazon (Prime), and I want to share the link:
SHNITPWR 4V - 12V Power Supply 10A 120W AC to DC Adapter DC 4V 4.5V 5V 6V 7V 8V 9V 10V 11V 12V Voltage Adjustable Universal Power Converter Transformer 100-240V AC In with 14 Tips & Polarity Converter by SNT-POWER, $30 via Amazon Prime: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N4FB7MF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_31SGTNKNGCDXANQ5PRC4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This appears to be the same PSU I was carrying in the fall, for the same $30 price I was selling them, and this one contains extra tip choices, too. Worth considering if you need a 10A PSU for your Flix.
I bought this AC/DC adapter, not for my Fluxer, just to have.
SAFTY NOTE:
There are 14 plug adapters and ONE 4” adapter, that is actually a REVERSE POLARITY adapter, and is UNMARKED!
First thing I did after continuity tested, is put a tape label on this adapter. Most devices these days have a POSITIVE center pin, and the outer sleeve is NEGATIVE, this power adapter and all 14 plugs are this way. DON’T use the REVERSE POLARITY adapter, unless you need it.
Flavor Vaper
Well-Known Member
This was me. I just wanted to say that it works really well with the flix V2. I have it down to 8V and with the PWM going I can achieve the lower temperatures that I was looking for, Way before the click on a standard stainless steel cap. I’m still new to Dynavap so I have to dial it in more to get the really good flavor, but I’m happy with how things are progressing.A customer recently found this Flix-compatible adjustable PSU on Amazon (Prime), and I want to share the link:
SHNITPWR 4V - 12V Power Supply 10A 120W AC to DC Adapter DC 4V 4.5V 5V 6V 7V 8V 9V 10V 11V 12V Voltage Adjustable Universal Power Converter Transformer 100-240V AC In with 14 Tips & Polarity Converter by SNT-POWER, $30 via Amazon Prime: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N4FB7MF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_31SGTNKNGCDXANQ5PRC4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This appears to be the same PSU I was carrying in the fall, for the same $30 price I was selling them, and this one contains extra tip choices, too. Worth considering if you need a 10A PSU for your Flix.
fak
The Dude
What am I looking at haha
Prophecy
Well-Known Member
So after a few day`s of use I had not thought how much I like the CaS.
Put the vapcap in the chamber and wait for the click without holding it, thats a very nice feature.
Now I will upgrade my Flix also to the CaS.
Played also a little bit more with the PWM-Mode of the Flite, and I must say I love this 25% Duty Cycles for the first heat up cycle, it is almost the same experience as heating with a single flame torch on the base of the cap.
Put the vapcap in the chamber and wait for the click without holding it, thats a very nice feature.
Now I will upgrade my Flix also to the CaS.
Played also a little bit more with the PWM-Mode of the Flite, and I must say I love this 25% Duty Cycles for the first heat up cycle, it is almost the same experience as heating with a single flame torch on the base of the cap.
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vapormachina
Well-Known Member
Finally my Flite batch 1 arrived too. In the end the customs were cheaper than I expected (€ 80 for a total price of about € 320 to Spain)
I am very surprised by the build quality, and indeed the magnets are very very strong!
I have to say that I don't like the CaS; I use it mainly on the computer and I don't like that feeling of having to pay attention to find the correct position to activate the switch; tried a new one cap and tip but this works very bad whith my OCD
I prefer a more automatic option, the Orion or something like that where I don't need to take your attention away from the screen or the instrument while using it. This is a more on the go device I thinkFinally I returned to my reliable old DIY IH with its top button
