Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

Momor

Well-Known Member
Yes, the LED trim pot is tucked away on the bottom board, as that was the only place I could find room for it. It's connected by several circuit traces and things are kinda tight in this part of the board, so trust me when I say that this was the best I could do, location-wise

The trim pot's sweep is less than a full turn. Turning the adjuster to the right (clockwise) should dim the LEDs, if I recall correctly, and at the max setting they should turn off. You may also be able to make them brighter by turning the LED the other way, IIRC.

It is easier to adjust if you remove the heater from the case, but you can access it through the narrow gap between the corner of the case and the PWM control panel. You will need a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, such as the type used to tighten eye-glasses. Although adjuster has a Phillips head ( + ), it is very shallow, so this type is easier to adjust with a small flat blade screw driver ( – ):
Perfect, i see now. Thank you !
 
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fak

The Dude
Thinking of just grabbing the car charger with the flite and grabbing that 2A charger posted on the previous page for day to day, 40 minutes full charge sounds sweet! Would love to hear approximate battery life from some real life users once they get settled in, I can't wait to make my order :D
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
40 minutes to full charge IS sweet ;] And @fak - Flite was designed for 10 loads and up. Technique is everything. I can do 12 bowls and the lights start to dim.

From a math-perspective - 150mwh/click. We can push to almost 11WH with the 3S 18350's. Coil sizes make for less variation than camping on the click or hotter settings. Still, you should be able to enjoy a session up to 1WH. I've toasted loads in 400mwh. If that was the norm, I'd be getting 20 bowls.
 
I added them for these reasons, as @RustyOldNail says. I added them fairly early in the FD development process, as vent holes sounded like a good idea for a 10A induction heater in a metal box that also holds 3x 18650 cells. I carried them over to the Flix and the Flite as options, for the folks that like the look and/or have one and want consistent aesthetics on another Fluxer they also own.

Is this an option that needs to be specified on the Flite? If you recommend it of course I would agree to do it, the only question I would have is in the event of some faulty hardware on the board or something would the additional oxygen help or its negligible? I think the only apprehension I have on the unit overall is charging unattended and the potential of an event like you described in the website as the release of liability, trying to think of how to limit exposure to combustion inside of the unit being a catastrophic event if it were ever to occur.
 
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Is this an option that needs to be specified on the Flite? If you recommend it of course I would agree to do it, the only question I would have is in the event of some faulty hardware on the board or something would the additional oxygen help or its negligible? I think the only apprehension I have on the unit overall is charging unattended and the potential of an event like you described in the website as the release of liability, trying to think of how to limit exposure to combustion inside of the unit being a catastrophic event if it were ever to occur.

This is an option you must select on the Flix and Flite, it is not something I include by default. I consider it to be primarily aesthetic, but it is functional and does permit more rapid heat dispersion from the coil

> If you recommend it

I do not think it is necessary, but I do offer it as an option for those that like the look or want to cool their coils more rapidly.

As for the extra holes providing additional air in the event of a fire, etc., given the presence of the heater hole in the lid and the low combustibility of the electrical components inside, I don't think these holes are likely to exacerbate such an event were one to occur, but thank you for bringing this to my attention, I will consider this.
 

The Chemist

New member but long time lurker
Hi all,

A heads-up that I expect to post more heaters for sale in my store on Friday. These will be a mix of Flix v1, Flix v2, and Flite. I'll have more info tomorrow as I finalize the details. I do not expect to have a Flix v2 video or other supporting materials ready before I start selling these, but I posted about the differences in Flix v2 and discussed them with you recently, so please see that post for general info.

Regarding the PWM add-on module, I plan on offering a choice of either top or side mounting positions, and also a choice of either the "B" knob or the "F" knob, which were the two people seemed to like. :)

I'll review the pricing info tomorrow - there's an upgrade path if you have a v1 and want v2, etc. I'll also discuss the Flix v1 vs v2 differences, discuss the Flix v1 I'll be selling, etc.

I'm aware that I can overwhelm myself if I put too much up for sale at once, so we'll see if I can find the right balance here.

--------



Yes, the LED trim pot is tucked away on the bottom board, as that was the only place I could find room for it. It's connected by several circuit traces and things are kinda tight in this part of the board, so trust me when I say that this was the best I could do, location-wise

The trim pot's sweep is less than a full turn. Turning the adjuster to the right (clockwise) should dim the LEDs, if I recall correctly, and at the max setting they should turn off. You may also be able to make them brighter by turning the LED the other way, IIRC.

It is easier to adjust if you remove the heater from the case, but you can access it through the narrow gap between the corner of the case and the PWM control panel. You will need a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, such as the type used to tighten eye-glasses. Although adjuster has a Phillips head ( + ), it is very shallow, so this type is easier to adjust with a small flat blade screw driver ( – ):

LED-trim-pot-1.jpg



LED-trim-pot-2.jpg




Yes, this is true. It is raw and will show all scratches unless you cover it in clear coat or some other protective finish. Or, as they say in the antique biz, "it will show the patina of use." ;)

BTW, since it is raw aluminum you can use rubbing compound and a polishing wheel to buff the finish to an eye-popping shine, if that's your thing. I did this with a raw Flix case some months ago to see how it would look, and the result was VERY FUCKING SHINY, lol. You'll leave kief fingerprints all over it if you do this. Also, don't stare into the polished aluminum surface if you're high, unless you don't have anything to do for a bit. :razz:



OK, some comparison pics for you, featuring the three purples I have, Flux Deluxe, Flix, and Flite:

IMG-0932-private.jpg



Devices reversed, but the same (crappy) flourescent light source:

IMG-0935-private.jpg


FWIW, I was hoping the new Flite cases would achieve a shade of purple like the color on the Flux Deluxe case above. They didn't quite get there, but it is a deeper purple than the shade they made for the Flix.

I hope that helps.

OK, I still have some heaters to complete for Flite batch 3.5, a couple of stragglers from Flite batch #3 (they were waiting for the new cases to get here), and some repairs to finish. I also have a few Flix waiting for v2 upgrades, and I am waiting on new glass inserts to complete those (they're due tomorrow).

Thanks again for sharing pics fo your new heaters, and thank you to existing owners for helping the newer folks when I've been too busy to reply quickly.

OK, off to do some stuff. Cheers!
That purple is very nice, I guess I'm gonna have to get that color for my Flux Deluxe when the time comes. :love:
 

Flavor Vaper

Well-Known Member
I found the perfect knob...

I like this style as well but they do not go to 11.

Edit, they actually make both styles that go from 1-10 or 1-11.
Will these just slide on the flix? I love Tap, will have to get them if so.
 
Flavor Vaper,

fak

The Dude
Thoughts on this car charger? Looks like it comes with the correct head

 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Is this an option that needs to be specified on the Flite? If you recommend it of course I would agree to do it, the only question I would have is in the event of some faulty hardware on the board or something would the additional oxygen help or its negligible? I think the only apprehension I have on the unit overall is charging unattended and the potential of an event like you described in the website as the release of liability, trying to think of how to limit exposure to combustion inside of the unit being a catastrophic event if it were ever to occur.

For the purist among us - okay, x-flashlight purist here - XTAR chargers and a spare set of cells. No downtime and as safe a charging environment I can envision.

Having said that, I don't charge overnight and I am always present with my Flite when charging. Being inside a metal shell helps a lot.

Bottom line - if the cells are healthy and the charger is within spec, there is little to worry about. You are dependent on the standard offering 10A BMS to do what it is suppose to do in case the afore mentioned requirements are overlooked.

@fak - The charger must be limited to 12.6V. A car can go over that when running. For a quick boost, sure - don't peek off the cells while driving.

I need to plug in a meter to my car lighter to monitor this. I know my old hot rods pumped out a lot of juice from their alternators.
 

fak

The Dude
For the purist among us - okay, x-flashlight purist here - XTAR chargers and a spare set of cells. No downtime and as safe a charging environment I can envision.

Having said that, I don't charge overnight and I am always present with my Flite when charging. Being inside a metal shell helps a lot.

Bottom line - if the cells are healthy and the charger is within spec, there is little to worry about. You are dependent on the standard offering 10A BMS to do what it is suppose to do in case the afore mentioned requirements are overlooked.

@fak - The charger must be limited to 12.6V. A car can go over that when running. For a quick boost, sure - don't peek off the cells while driving.

I need to plug in a meter to my car lighter to monitor this. I know my old hot rods pumped out a lot of juice from their alternators.
Ahh, thanks for the quick reply! I figured since the other charger was double amperage this might also help to quickly charge on the go/during camping trips. I guess it's more for popping it in, having a quick rip and then turning off the power to the battery (and never turning on the car during operation).
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Correct @fak - you can manipulate power as long as you are paying attention to it. The BMS will limit the charge current to under 2 amps IIRC.
 
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Eclipse

Well-Known Member
Will these just slide on the flix? I love Tap, will have to get them if so.
Mr C replied to me in a previous post.

The control pot I need for this has a 1/8" shaft. That's an unusual size. The most common knob shaft diameters are 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm), so my choices are truly limited. Also, the knobs to which you linked are larger than you may realize.

That being said where there is a will there is a way and if I upgrade to the Flix v2 I may try to find some smaller ones and/or "modify" them to fit.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker

sesh732

Imaginable
Flite 62 arrived today. It's beautiful! But what you really wanna know is it takes dynavap to a new level for my usage. I use it n hand like a torch and ignore the click of the cap. The hot settings (15mm coil heating at the base) on full power are not to be trifled with. No combustion but I finished a full fine-ground-last-Thursday straw method packed cap of some 31% gluey flowers barely into the second lung full. Eyes wide. Just starting to experiment with the pwm. Will try to post pics tomorrow!
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@sesh732 - That is my favorite method. You might be able to dial PWM so you can keep up with Flite.
I might recommend burning off of the peek charge a little so you are in the more gentle part of the discharge curve when dialing in the perfect PWM.

I should add that this real-time heating method, drawing and modulating the heater, is much simpler with the button. I guess that is why I have one of each. Neither one is inherently better. It is certainly a learned technique, but oh so rewarding when you dial it in.
 
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Me, seeing the clock strike midnight, hitting refresh every minute until the next orders open up. Today will be a long day, but I will be first this batch lol
 
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all,

Sorry for not posting this earlier.

I will be adding more heaters to my store Friday morning at 10:00am Pacific time (GMT-8).

I'm still finalizing the quantities, but at present I expect to have 11 Flix v1* (starting at $115), ~18 Flix v2 (starting at $135), and also a few Flite for sale (starting at $220). This offering will be mostly Flix-focused. Given the larger quantities, please allow me two weeks lead time to ship these, although I expect to start shipping these orders sooner than that.

The store's software isn't very smart when it comes to its shipping options, so if you order more than one heater, I will combine shipping when I finish processing your order and refund the difference.

Simplified Flix options, simpler ordering (updated): I am reworking some of the options for the Flix v2 to simplify its production, and also changing the way you will order it.

Simpler LED Options: I'm reducing the Flix v2 LED options to my two most popular choices:
  • Standard (a blue base LED that turns purple when active, plus red under coil LEDs that illuminate when active); OR
  • Green (green base LED that adds a tinge of red when active, plus green under coil LEDs that illuminate when active)
You'll still have the option to add the slowly changing 'color wheel' base LED if you wish. I'm dropping the other under-coil LED options for now, as each requires its own separate soldering run which was getting crazy. The upside is that I am also eliminating the extra charge, so you can choose either option at purchase, assuming both are still available when you buy, etc.

Simpler ordering: Flix v2 now comes in two models as above, Standard LEDs and Green LEDs. Choose the model with the LED option you want, then choose the case color you want as an option. Case color will now be an option for Flix, which should make things less fraught when these go up for sale. :clap:

*The Flix v1 I'm selling are already made and will only be available in these under coil LED choices: standard (2x), green (5x), and rainbow (4x). Rainbow = 'color wheel' base LED when on, mixed color under coil LEDs that illuminate when active. For any Flix v1 you purchase, you will have a choice of case colors, and also a choice of 15mm or 16mm coil sizes, as above.

So that's the plan, more Flix and Flite will be in the store at 10:00am Friday morning, Pacific time.

Thank you all for your support! I am very happy so many of you are enjoying your Flite heaters, and I'm hopeful the new version of the Flix will also be a crowd pleaser. Thanks for making this stuff possible, and thanks for keeping it fun!

-------

Flite batch 3.5 + a few repairs: some have shipped but some are still in progress. I plan to finish most of these tomorrow, and will finish the rest over the weekend. :nod:

That's the latest - thanks!

Cheers,
:leaf:

Updated and hopefully clarified
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
I still wait for my Flite from batch 1, the package arrived my country but since then no further movement. :ugh:

My Flite will delivered today, perfect day for it so I can give it a nice test on the weekend. Will write a update with my impressions. :love:
Excellent news! Happy fluxin'!

@mecrobs - shrink that pic man... stretch at the corners - TYVM!
 
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