I haven't counted lately, but I'm definitely getting more than 15 clicks. That said I have number 10 which is the 15mm hotter setup, which likely makes a difference.
Are you using an external charger or charging onboard the device?
Also, 5 clicks per session seems like a lot, I usually get 2 or 3, and on rare occasion 4, which is more in line with @Moses Baca
I'm charging using the device itself. My next step is to try my external charger, although it's only a 2 bay one unfortunately. You're right that 5 clicks per session is lot. It's probably more like 4 with the 16mm coil setup. I was getting 2-3 with the 15mm one, but definitely 3+ with the 16mm. Anyone else getting a lot more than 15 clicks, especially with the 16mm?
15mm and still working through my first set of charged batteries. I bought the efest batteries @TommyDee linked earlier and I use a Nightcore charger, swapping batteries when needed.
I looked back several pages but couldn't find an answer - I assume leaving the Flight switched ON is okay? No LEDs so is it draining the batteries at all? I try to remember to shut it off but, you know, sometimes I get distracted and forget.
I'm charging using the device itself. My next step is to try my external charger, although it's only a 2 bay one unfortunately. You're right that 5 clicks per session is lot. It's probably more like 4 with the 16mm coil setup. I was getting 2-3 with the 15mm one, but definitely 3+ with the 16mm. Anyone else getting a lot more than 15 clicks, especially with the 16mm?
Hi @rvarick , the 16mm coil is less efficient than the 15mm, but 15 clicks per charge doesn't sound right. Let me do some testing on my end, and I'll get back to you. In the meantime, yes, please give your external charger a try, as it is possible the stock Flite charging adapter is undercharging.
I assume leaving the Flight switched ON is okay? No LEDs so is it draining the batteries at all? I try to remember to shut it off but, you know, sometimes I get distracted and forget.
Yes, that''s fine - the 'off' position is a NULL position that doesn't connect to anything. The 'on' positions on the Flite aren't active in the way they are on my other heaters - there is no LED to power. They permit the heater to operate if you also activate one of the other triggers. The 'on' positions should not draw any additional power than the off position.
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I continued building Flite batch #3 over the weekend, with no issues to report. I made steady progress and expect to begin shipping heaters from this batch on Wednesday. I'll process the orders as I received them, so the earliest orders I received will ship first, etc. If you have requested a change or additional item to your order, I'll invoice you for those items later in the process, after I build your heater.
I am also making a batch of Flix v2 PCBs, and expect to post a batch of Flix v2 for sale after I complete Flite batch #3.
Thanks again for your support! I have some emails to catch up with, and thank for your patience if I owe you a reply. Otherwise, the week looks like it should be a productive one, and I hope to make and ship a lot of heaters for folks.
Hi @rvarick , the 16mm coil is less efficient than the 15mm, but 15 clicks per charge doesn't sound right. Let me do some testing on my end, and I'll get back to you. In the meantime, yes, please give your external charger a try, as it is possible the stock Flite charging adapter is undercharging.
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Yes, that''s fine - the 'off' position is a NULL position that doesn't connect to anything. The 'on' positions on the Flite aren't active in the way they are on my other heaters - there is no LED to power. They permit the heater to operate if you also activate one of the other triggers. The 'on' positions should not draw any additional power than the off position.
----------------
I continued building Flite batch #3 over the weekend, with no issues to report. I made steady progress and expect to begin shipping heaters from this batch on Wednesday. I'll process the orders as I received them, so the earliest orders I received will ship first, etc. If you have requested a change or additional item to your order, I'll invoice you for those items later in the process, after I build your heater.
I am also making a batch of Flix v2 PCBs, and expect to post a batch of Flix v2 for sale after I complete Flite batch #3.
Thanks again for your support! I have some emails to catch up with, and thank for your patience if I owe you a reply. Otherwise, the week looks like it should be a productive one, and I hope to make and ship a lot of heaters for folks.
First things first: Thanks to all the new Flite owners (!), and an extra thanks (!!) to those who have taken the time to share their Flite experiences and thoughts with this thread.
Thank you for helping to make this Fluxer Heaters 'adventure' possible!
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I played around with that a bit last night, actually. I can't do "equidistant" as the DC jack interferes, but I can do something pretty close.
Updated to add: You were right, @Jethro . It turns out I can place this hole equidistant to the other holes on top, which is what I'll do. Revised placement at top:
I have some pictures of examples in the spoiler section below, using the closer hole spacing. Ignore the narrower spacing, but are any of the knobs acceptable? Or at a minimum, a bit more acceptable?
Reminder: This is a knob to operate an optional feature. I am not a design house and I am limited to the parts I can source. Although it seems that there must be about a billion knobs and switches in the manufacturing world, the reality is that it's not always possible to find the exact combination of features and size and such that you want. I feel extremely lucky to have found the items I need to make this circuit work at all in this configuration!
I can put it on the right side or on the top, as shown below. Take it or leave it, this is what it is and how it's going to look. I'm willing to give this discussion a few more minutes, figuratively, and then I'm going to turn the page and move on.
Let me know...
OK, some other replies before I head back to the shop:
You are correct, and those would be great choices if I had the ability to machine them easily. Unfortunately, I already have a few hundred Flix cases made and I do not want to remachine them for an optional feature. I don't mind drilling a hole to add a control pot, but I will not be remachining these cases to add a slot. But you are correct, ideally either of those could be a better solution.
The control pot I need for this has a 1/8" shaft. That's an unusual size. The most common knob shaft diameters are 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm), so my choices are truly limited. Also, the knobs to which you linked are larger than you may realize.
Thank you both for your orders! As I stated in this thread before I posted these in the store, please allow me 7-10 days to make and start shipping these, so pace yourselves, these still have a little ways to go before they'll be ready ti ship out. I finished reflow soldering the boards for this batch last night, and will be moving on to soldering the through-hole components next.
Things are on track and if I can get them done early, believe me, I will! At present I'm still a few more days from shipping the first heater from this batch. Thanks for your patience!
NP, I can give you hot if that's what you want.
Sorry, but this is not possible. Also, the button is a manual switch...
Sorry, the cases are machined by my case vendor in China, so this is not possible for me. I see what you want to do, and perhaps you could approximate this with a pair of rubber bands?
----
I know I owe a few of you PMs or email replies, and I will get to those later today or tonight. If you feel I have forgotten you, my apologies - please send me a reminder note. Things got a bit hectic for me this week and it doesn't take a lot to put me behind, so please be a squeaky wheel (to a degree!) if you are feeling neglected.
Thankls for all of your support this week, and always! And Happy Friday!
Does anyone happen to know if the charger Pipes supplies with the Portside Mini is also consistent with the charger being supplied with the Flite? The one I have for my PSM lists what look to be consistent specs, as follows:
Model: LJH-12610
Input: 100-240V AC
50/60Hz
Output: DC12.6 V 1A
There should be an illustration somewhere on the label, it may look like a circle with a dot in the middle, with a plus and minus sign nearby. Post a picture of the adapter’s info label, if possible, and I’ll let you know. Thx.
I got flite 34 a week ago and I’ve been loving it! At first it seemed too close to the edge of combustion but I opened it up and pushed the coils down slightly.
Perfect tuning for a 7 fin ti tip! My vaphotbox is a little too light on the roast, gets about 3 hits and take a bit longer to heat. My Orion is too fast and almost combusts unless I use a low temp cap, but even then the roast is uneven.
flite gives a solid first hit, cloudy and flavorful. The second gives the rest in a big cloud that gets you medicated. You can take a third to the edge of combustion if you need to be medicated quick.
I have the 16mm coil
Can’t believe how well the build quality is and I can’t stop playing with it. Great work Jeff!
This is the graphic that indicates polarity: the outside of the tip is identified as negative, the center as positive. This looks like the same adapter I use, so it should work fine.
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That's great news, @FunkShui ! Thanks for sharing that! I am very happy you got it dialed in and are enjoying it.
First things first: Thanks to all the new Flite owners (!), and an extra thanks (!!) to those who have taken the time to share their Flite experiences and thoughts with this thread.
Thank you for helping to make this Fluxer Heaters 'adventure' possible!
----------
I played around with that a bit last night, actually. I can't do "equidistant" as the DC jack interferes, but I can do something pretty close.
Updated to add: You were right, @Jethro . It turns out I can place this hole equidistant to the other holes on top, which is what I'll do. Revised placement at top:
I have some pictures of examples in the spoiler section below, using the closer hole spacing. Ignore the narrower spacing, but are any of the knobs acceptable? Or at a minimum, a bit more acceptable?
Reminder: This is a knob to operate an optional feature. I am not a design house and I am limited to the parts I can source. Although it seems that there must be about a billion knobs and switches in the manufacturing world, the reality is that it's not always possible to find the exact combination of features and size and such that you want. I feel extremely lucky to have found the items I need to make this circuit work at all in this configuration!
I can put it on the right side or on the top, as shown below. Take it or leave it, this is what it is and how it's going to look. I'm willing to give this discussion a few more minutes, figuratively, and then I'm going to turn the page and move on.
Let me know...
OK, some other replies before I head back to the shop:
You are correct, and those would be great choices if I had the ability to machine them easily. Unfortunately, I already have a few hundred Flix cases made and I do not want to remachine them for an optional feature. I don't mind drilling a hole to add a control pot, but I will not be remachining these cases to add a slot. But you are correct, ideally either of those could be a better solution.
The control pot I need for this has a 1/8" shaft. That's an unusual size. The most common knob shaft diameters are 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm), so my choices are truly limited. Also, the knobs to which you linked are larger than you may realize.
Thank you both for your orders! As I stated in this thread before I posted these in the store, please allow me 7-10 days to make and start shipping these, so pace yourselves, these still have a little ways to go before they'll be ready ti ship out. I finished reflow soldering the boards for this batch last night, and will be moving on to soldering the through-hole components next.
Things are on track and if I can get them done early, believe me, I will! At present I'm still a few more days from shipping the first heater from this batch. Thanks for your patience!
NP, I can give you hot if that's what you want.
Sorry, but this is not possible. Also, the button is a manual switch...
Sorry, the cases are machined by my case vendor in China, so this is not possible for me. I see what you want to do, and perhaps you could approximate this with a pair of rubber bands?
----
I know I owe a few of you PMs or email replies, and I will get to those later today or tonight. If you feel I have forgotten you, my apologies - please send me a reminder note. Things got a bit hectic for me this week and it doesn't take a lot to put me behind, so please be a squeaky wheel (to a degree!) if you are feeling neglected.
Thankls for all of your support this week, and always! And Happy Friday!
Hi everyone newbie here - as I wait to order in the next batch I was curious if anyone had a comment on the button vs cap as a switch setup. I am typically on the go and I would imagine the cap as a switch is not great unless it is flat on a table top. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone newbie here - as I wait to order in the next batch I was curious if anyone had a comment on the button vs cap as a switch setup. I am typically on the go and I would imagine the cap as a switch is not great unless it is flat on a table top. Thanks in advance!
The CaS can be engaged if you are using the Flite with 2 hands in any position. If you are using the button you will be using 2 hand either way.
I have both and lately have been using the CaS more often than button out of laziness. Button is when I want to fine tune the bake. So in short, get both and you will never question yourself.
@dynavapmuser - Table top stabilization is not required. I find myself with a Flite in my hands more often then resting. I have one of each device and honestly, they are interchangeable because it is in my hands already, not in spite of it. That makes the manual switch less of an
If you consider the pouch the Flite comes as a skin for travel, either solution, or the both solution will be more than adequate on the go.
Best pro's for both to date - When you're out in nowhere, having a backup activation is always welcome.
Best con's for both to date - The wart on the side of my golden brick.
* I might be biased on that Con entry though ;]
If you pack the Flite you will need to disable it from inside with the switch [turn it off] if you have the manual button. CaS lets you pack without a care. CaS is more convenient when used as a table top because it is a one-handed application.
As much as I like my Flite my throat find it a little too hot for comfort so I decided to send it to Mr.C so he can put a 16mm coil instead.
I also decided to ship both my Flix for an upgrade. I think the PWM is gonna be perfect for the Flix since I won't have to manage batteries and I need the cap as switch. I'm so used to just putting the Vapcap in the Flite and seeing the green light that when I go to use the Flix I wonder why it's not lighting up and I remember I need to actually press with the Flix to activate it. So I decided to ship the whole family on a trip, now my problem is I don't have an IH anymore, it's back to the torch for me!
Flite no.041 checking in, I received it yesterday and I’m well impressed. Straight out of the box using a 2020 tip and a 2018 cap it’s fucking heaven! I’ve got the 15mm coil and went for the default setting(cooler) and it produces a big flavourful (you taste what you smell) first hit and bigger second hit with bit less flavour but still nice,third hit takes the avb to a nice even dark brown and that’s where I like to stop.
It is a bit hot and not as flavoursome for my ti tip using the same cap, might be able to get it right using the PWM or a low temp cap but if I want to use the ti tip I’ll use a different heater
I went for the CAS and it works really well not much different than the Orion tbh. The case is a nice touch it makes it truly portable. These batteries pack a punch for there size as well. Overall Colour me impressed! 10/10
A quick update on new Flite case colors: I just heard back from my case vendor, and my next shipment of Flite cases is shipping tomorrow and should be here in a week or so. This is a half shipment as apparently there was an issue with several colors that requires a do-over - that will be after the Chinese New Year holiday - but in about a week I expect to add raw aluminum and purple to the Flite lineup. I don't have ay pics of the purple yet, so although I requested a dark purple, I don't know what shade I'll actually get. If you placed an order in batch #3 and one of these new colors sounds like your jam, please send me an email with your order number telling me what you want, and I'll put your heater aside until the new cases get here. BTW, I attempted to get more hunter green cases, but unfortunately that was one of the colors that had issues. They're going to re-do that, but we'll need to wait another month or so to see the results.
I'm presently finishing a number of the batch #3 heaters and will be buying shipping labels later tonight, boxing them up, etc., so you if you are waiting for a shipping notice, thanks for your patience, you should begin to see shipping notices later tonight.
Hey everyone, I just wanted to clarify my Flite config before they eventually restock so I am ready to pull the trigger when they do. I want to be able to finish the cap in as little hits as possible and get the most on demand/quickest extraction possible. Let me know how this config sounds:
Black / Red Push Button / 15mm Hotter / Hotter Coil / CF Insert / 3x Keepower / US Charger