Flite: I believe I have completed, invoiced, and shipped each of the "Flite batch 2.5" orders I committed to over email. These were a few orders I accepted between batches, for various reasons. If this sounds like your situation and you have not received an invoice from me - or any updates - please send me a PM or email and we'll see where things stand with your order. If you are interested in a Flite and missed batch #3, sit tight, I will be back with the next batch in about two weeks.
Batch #3: I've started making Flite batch #3 and expect to be working on it for several more days. There are about 20 heaters in total in Flite batch #3. If you requested a change or added an item after you submitted your order, I'll invoice you for those things after I complete your heater.
Flix v2: I have a new candidate for the Flix v2's PWM knob, as well as some pics and a quick demo video.
Let me know what you think:
Here's a quick 60 second demo of how the PWM feature works in the Flix:
Hey look, it's another Shaky Cam Production!
I'm planning to do a run of Flix after I complete the current run of Flite. I'l have more info soon.
Finally, thank you to everyone in this thread for your support and enthusiasm for these heaters! I am especially grateful for the new Flite owners who took the time to post their pictures and experiences. Thank you! It has been a bit of a journey so far, but I think we have worked through all of the initial issues, and my sense from this side of the workbench is that so far, most people seem pretty happy with their Flite. If you have one and aren't happy with yours, please let me know via email or PM and I will do my best to resolve the situation.
Any possability of putting that knob on top of the case, like behind the button, equi-distant with the coil/button/knob? I think it would look better and be pretty functional. I like this knob better than the little tiny one. And on top, the size doesn't really matter, you need to keep the top clear anyway to put the vapcap in there.
First things first: Thanks to all the new Flite owners (!), and an extra thanks (!!) to those who have taken the time to share their Flite experiences and thoughts with this thread.
Thank you for helping to make this Fluxer Heaters 'adventure' possible!
Any possability of putting that knob on top of the case, like behind the button, equi-distant with the coil/button/knob? I think it would look better and be pretty functional. I like this knob better than the little tiny one. And on top, the size doesn't really matter, you need to keep the top clear anyway to put the vapcap in there.
I played around with that a bit last night, actually. I can't do "equidistant" as the DC jack interferes, but I can do something pretty close.
Updated to add: You were right, @Jethro . It turns out I can place this hole equidistant to the other holes on top, which is what I'll do. Revised placement at top:
I have some pictures of examples in the spoiler section below, using the closer hole spacing. Ignore the narrower spacing, but are any of the knobs acceptable? Or at a minimum, a bit more acceptable?
Reminder: This is a knob to operate an optional feature. I am not a design house and I am limited to the parts I can source. Although it seems that there must be about a billion knobs and switches in the manufacturing world, the reality is that it's not always possible to find the exact combination of features and size and such that you want. I feel extremely lucky to have found the items I need to make this circuit work at all in this configuration!
I can put it on the right side or on the top, as shown below. Take it or leave it, this is what it is and how it's going to look. I'm willing to give this discussion a few more minutes, figuratively, and then I'm going to turn the page and move on.
Let me know...
OK, some other replies before I head back to the shop:
You are correct, and those would be great choices if I had the ability to machine them easily. Unfortunately, I already have a few hundred Flix cases made and I do not want to remachine them for an optional feature. I don't mind drilling a hole to add a control pot, but I will not be remachining these cases to add a slot. But you are correct, ideally either of those could be a better solution.
The control pot I need for this has a 1/8" shaft. That's an unusual size. The most common knob shaft diameters are 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm), so my choices are truly limited. Also, the knobs to which you linked are larger than you may realize.
Just popped in to check out everyone's new Flites! Ordered mine on the last batch and can't wait to get that shipping notification! Will post pics once I get my hands on it!
Thank you both for your orders! As I stated in this thread before I posted these in the store, please allow me 7-10 days to make and start shipping these, so pace yourselves, these still have a little ways to go before they'll be ready ti ship out. I finished reflow soldering the boards for this batch last night, and will be moving on to soldering the through-hole components next.
Things are on track and if I can get them done early, believe me, I will! At present I'm still a few more days from shipping the first heater from this batch. Thanks for your patience!
Anyone have the hottest settings and coil? My goal is usually 1-2 pulls for full extraction so I chose "hot" every time when ordering figuring I can always pull the tip out a little if I want cooler. Any recent personal observations from "hot" Flite owners? Thanks
1. Would it be possible to order the Flite with CAS and button switching, but configure it so you can choose the switching method manually, rather than having both switching options always active?
2. Would it be possible to machine a shallow groove on the Flite cover from front to back, which would allow you to securely rest a vapcap on top of the Flite with the tip hanging over the edge in the air to avoid unwanted heat loss from the tip between draws?
Sorry, the cases are machined by my case vendor in China, so this is not possible for me. I see what you want to do, and perhaps you could approximate this with a pair of rubber bands?
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I know I owe a few of you PMs or email replies, and I will get to those later today or tonight. If you feel I have forgotten you, my apologies - please send me a reminder note. Things got a bit hectic for me this week and it doesn't take a lot to put me behind, so please be a squeaky wheel (to a degree!) if you are feeling neglected.
Thankls for all of your support this week, and always! And Happy Friday!
greeting all.new member here and happy to be part of flite batch#3 roundup.i have question about carbon fiber coil insert option.what are advantages or disadvantages of such?your input would be appreciated.
Sorry to bug you one more time! I know the button switch would always be active, and your answer will probably still be the same, but just in case, let me rephrase the question to be more specific... Would it be possible to add the CAS with the option to disable just the CAS with an internal switch or jumper of some kind?
#38 here, received my gunmetal Flite last weekend but was out of town and finally had a chance to really use it. Chose the button and Cas setup with 16mm coil. Glad I chose all those options.
I have other vapes but I still love the dynavap. The torch aspect grows old fairly quick so the dyna gets shelved for long periods of time. Since I got the Flite, the dynavap has been my daily driver. It really enhances the dynavap experience. It’s well built, portable and you can tell a lot of time and testing went into this beautiful device. It heats the dynavap very well, using a Ti tip and 2019 cap, getting some nice hits. I am more than happy with the Flite.
The bonus part was the great support from Jeff! The response rate and his updates were quick and often, so I never felt in the dark or neglected. I had a few requests and he was able to accommodate them with no hesitation.
Sorry to bug you one more time! I know the button switch would always be active, and your answer will probably still be the same, but just in case, let me rephrase the question to be more specific... Would it be possible to add the CAS with the option to disable just the CAS with an internal switch or jumper of some kind?
It's "possible" in the theoretical sense that the traces to the CaS are separate, but a) I have no practical way to implement this feature - there's no room for an add'l control, and b) it introduces add'l complexity to a setup that's already complicated for what it does. I'm sorry, but I cannot fulfill this request at this time.
It's "possible" in the theoretical sense that the traces to the CaS are separate, but a) I have no practical way to implement this feature - there's no room for an add'l control, and b) it introduces add'l complexity to a setup that's already complicated for what it does. I'm sorry, but I cannot fulfill this request at this time.
I like the option to choose where you want the knob because the way I have my two Flix set up it would require me to have one of each configuration. For example if I have the knob on top I won't be able to slide the Flix under the computer screen like I do currently and the other one doesn't have enough space besides it on my table for the knob, it would need to be on top. That's why I didn't like the knob on the side on the original design, because of the limited space I had to work with.
For the knob itself it's a tie between B and F. Are they the same height?
@mr_cfromcali I think for a larger knob like this it does look better on top than on the side. F, A, E and B are my favorites, and I think that’s about the order they fit in.
B is a nice knob, but I think it’s a little large in proportion to the rest of the device. The height is the issue considering the otherwise low profile button and switch. I think it does blend better on the top than the side though.
E looks pretty good and I think the design may help it fit in better than some others despite its larger size. It still seems a little large, but maybe worth considering.
A is pretty minimalist and may not be the easiest to actually use (you’d know better), but it’s pretty small and unobtrusive so it blends in pretty well and I’m sure at least some people would like this one best.
F isn’t my favorite look but I don’t think it’s bad, and at least from the angle we can see I think it looks like the best fit overall for a knob instead of a nub.
If you wanted to narrow it down to two I’d probably go with F and A, but being able to see them in person, feel them, etc. you’re probably the most able to judge which will look/feel/work best.
I can see this discussion is a bit aggravating, and I hope my first contribution to it is only helpful, but I think once you start shipping them you’ll be glad you posted and considered your options before making a final decision. I hope I’m right.
I like privacy and minimalism,
so there's nothing more minimalistic (& powerful) than @mr_cfromcali's Flite, blew my mind, especially playing with the PWM,
Still figuring out whats the best brand for extra batteries & chargers.
I have the CF and it does light up, though I imagine it is less than the glass. I can still see the reflection off my stem and can see when the lights dim and the battery is getting low.
@BIG I.
Works great, and I got the CF because I take the flite hiking a lot and wanted a little more durability.
I have tried both CF and clear glass on my Fluxer Deluxe. The glass inserts can be a bit fragile if like me, you want to manually adjust the coil height, BROKE in my hand. The CF insert gives more then enough LED spill light in my opinion. You won’t miss the brighter light, unless you want to advertise the device....
hey rereading my post i didnt mean for my statement to appear it a fact that the glass is difficult to break,meant to say thought it difficult to break.i have a couple other ih units,an apollo and psm that have taken some tumbles without breakage guess i been lucky.never had choice before on the insert or adjusted a coil and truly interested in all info.got to be more careful with my posts later in the day when things get hazy.flux on you all.
Question for Flite owners please: around how many clicks are you getting, from fully charged, to the Flite doing the auto-shutoff? With my 16mm coil, stock Keeppower cells, and running the Flite at full power I'm only getting 15 clicks, which translates to ~3 sessions. If I use PWM at all this goes even lower. I know the 16mm coil is more battery intensive, but this seems quite low based on what I've seen here. Just trying to determine if this is way off from others as I evaluate mine.
We broke our FD glass (picture above) in a pretty hard fall, landed face down on concrete. No worries, great customer service, @mr_cfromcali fixed us right up. Flight is so small and light I may switch to CF if the glass ever breaks.
FYI - 15mm glass on my FD and Flight, 16mm on my Flix. I'm still getting to know my Flight, cap-as-switch has a different feel to it compared to my older FD and Flix. Full power is similar to my other Fluxers so that's mainly how I've been using it. Heating time to click seems a little slower than my FD but faster than my Flix. Two cycles per bowl, sometimes three, although the third gets very toasty.
Question for Flite owners please: around how many clicks are you getting, from fully charged, to the Flite doing the auto-shutoff? With my 16mm coil, stock Keeppower cells, and running the Flite at full power I'm only getting 15 clicks, which translates to ~3 sessions. If I use PWM at all this goes even lower. I know the 16mm coil is more battery intensive, but this seems quite low based on what I've seen here. Just trying to determine if this is way off from others as I evaluate mine.
I haven't counted lately, but I'm definitely getting more than 15 clicks. That said I have number 10 which is the 15mm hotter setup, which likely makes a difference.
Are you using an external charger or charging onboard the device?
Also, 5 clicks per session seems like a lot, I usually get 2 or 3, and on rare occasion 4, which is more in line with @Moses Baca
