Firewood Vaporizer

CyanKraken

New Member
Yeah yours definitely has some sort of fresh bug, you will have to send it back to him!
You never think you’re gonna be the one, and then boom, just like that
:ugh:

I sent him the same video earlier and he responded with shipping information. Looks like I won’t be using the FW7 anytime soon:(
 

rvarick

Well-Known Member
I don't actually know what you mean, you didn't really answer how long you're holding the button? How long are the hits? Have you used the WPA yet? That could help you if the burning lips of the standard mouthpiece is too much, like it was for me... Tough to test your temp calibration dealing with this issue.
Thanks. To better explain/clarify, I just timed it and I'm typically holding the button around 15 seconds max. This includes the 3-5 seconds until the device heats up from cold and I get the temp buzz, followed by holding it for ~10-11 seconds of my draw. I then will let go of the button while I finish my draw (for about 3-5 more seconds). It's always off between hits as well. I also just checked the max amount of time I can inhale on the device until my lungs are maxed out, which is 15 seconds by itself, so I know I'm not holding it longer than that. Hope this helps compare/contrast with others usage.

Re: the WPA, unfortunately I broke my M/M adapter the 2nd day I had it, and am awaiting a new one currently. I may switch to using that setup more if the lip discomfort persists once I confirm my unit/technique is working as intended.
 
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firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
I'm making a minor firmware change on the upcoming batch to address some complaints I have gotten about temperature calibration. At least several people have mentioned that they get charring at 400 or below in some cases. This isn't an issue with a unit or two being miscalibrated, rather it is due to how I set the temperature range and affects all units. Essentially the temperature ranges are somewhat arbitrary estimates since the temperature is controlled at the heating element, not the oven. As a result, things like draw speed, draw length, length of pre-heat, ambient temperature, etc. can affect the temperature in the oven. I initially set the temperatures based on shorter, medium speed draws, but now I am starting to think that was a mistake. As a result I am planning to shift the entire temperature range by 30 degrees F, so what used to be 420 will now be 390 for example. In practice one could achieve both temperatures at a given setting by varying the draw speed etc., but I think this will be more in line with what people expect. Anybody who has a fw7 can send in their unit for a firmware update (send me an email to service@firewoodvapes.com), but it isn't necessary as long as you are comfortable doing the temp shift in your head.
 

VaporWare

Well-Known Member
After that I commented that I can use a fine grind without issue and it might even work better than a coarse grind, so I would not put much focus on that at all... What you want is a consistent grind regardless of fine or course, like a medium consistent grind is great lol Scorch is mostly a risk of too much power to the heater, to the load, I believe.
I should’ve re-read the follow-ups before asking that, I read yours before. :rolleyes:

Glad it’s not too picky about the grind. I’ve been watching these for the last couple of years and overall this one seems like the most promising model yet!

The issue makes more sense after reading Marc’s last post. :)
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Hey @firewood ,

Are you talking about changing the preset defaults? Specifically, Preset 1 = 340F; Preset 2 = 380F; Preset 3 = 420F? Or is this more about "tuning" the heater via firmware adjustment?

I think maybe you lost me here. :huh: :huh: :huh:

.
 
Fat Freddy,
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firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Hey @firewood ,

Are you talking about changing the preset defaults? Specifically, Preset 1 = 340F; Preset 2 = 380F; Preset 3 = 420F? Or is this more about "tuning" the heater via firmware adjustment?

I think maybe you lost me here. :huh: :huh: :huh:

.
The default presets will stay the same. This is more about tuning and isn't directly related to the default presets. For example, if you set the temperature to 400, a temperature where some people get charring/combustion with the current firmware, the new firmware will be 3 steps (approx. 30 degrees) cooler., and therefore a lot less likely to combust.
 
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rvarick

Well-Known Member
I'm making a minor firmware change on the upcoming batch to address some complaints I have gotten about temperature calibration. At least several people have mentioned that they get charring at 400 or below in some cases. This isn't an issue with a unit or two being miscalibrated, rather it is due to how I set the temperature range and affects all units. Essentially the temperature ranges are somewhat arbitrary estimates since the temperature is controlled at the heating element, not the oven. As a result, things like draw speed, draw length, length of pre-heat, ambient temperature, etc. can affect the temperature in the oven. I initially set the temperatures based on shorter, medium speed draws, but now I am starting to think that was a mistake. As a result I am planning to shift the entire temperature range by 30 degrees F, so what used to be 420 will now be 390 for example. In practice one could achieve both temperatures at a given setting by varying the draw speed etc., but I think this will be more in line with what people expect. Anybody who has a fw7 can send in their unit for a firmware update (send me an email to service@firewoodvapes.com), but it isn't necessary as long as you are comfortable doing the temp shift in your head.
Thanks Marc, this is helpful info. I know I'm one of the folks with an email out to you re: charring/temp questions, and I just saw your response there as well.

So if I wanted to forgo sending my unit back, all I'd have to do is just adjust (mentally) the temp settings expected for each # of buzzes/clicks on my unit (by ~30 degrees)? This seems easy vs. adjusted firmware if all it's doing is lowering the scale, so to speak.

If so, and for my understanding, would the below chart be accurate as far as the new temp guidelines for those with the old firmware? And for example - if I'm currently set at 350/370/390, really I may be hitting ~380/400/420?

Capture.JPG
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
You never think you’re gonna be the one, and then boom, just like that
:ugh:

I sent him the same video earlier and he responded with shipping information. Looks like I won’t be using the FW7 anytime soon:(
Yep you're in good company, happens to the best of us, I certainly never expected to be the one to spill water on my FW7! That's not even defect lottery, but proof the unit is very effective when working properly... Hopefully the turnaround will be quick for you, and maybe this will reveal a potential thing to check for in the future! Why we test :tup:

Thanks. To better explain/clarify, I just timed it and I'm typically holding the button around 15 seconds max. This includes the 3-5 seconds until the device heats up from cold and I get the temp buzz, followed by holding it for ~10-11 seconds of my draw. I then will let go of the button while I finish my draw (for about 3-5 more seconds). It's always off between hits as well. I also just checked the max amount of time I can inhale on the device until my lungs are maxed out, which is 15 seconds by itself, so I know I'm not holding it longer than that. Hope this helps compare/contrast with others usage.

Re: the WPA, unfortunately I broke my M/M adapter the 2nd day I had it, and am awaiting a new one currently. I may switch to using that setup more if the lip discomfort persists once I confirm my unit/technique is working as intended. At the moment though getting vapor consistently only happens with less than pleasant hits and flavors.
Ah that sucks about your male to male adapter, yeah I highly recommend a jayhook with the FW7 of course!

So yeah looks like Marc is making an adjustment has other people who are not feeling the temp calibration... Personally I had no issue adjusting my technique to match the device, like I got to know it, how it heats, but maybe I'll get my second unit with this new tuning to compare...

Anyway if you wanted to try with your current temps more, I would suggest making your hits a little shorter by a few seconds, I also might suggest drawing a little faster? Particularly for the second half of your hit...

Taste wise, it sucks if you kind of tainted it with too much scorching, and I don't know about the tung oil as mine is unfinished, but I get very nice pure flavor so your situation would make me want to buy a complete new unit lol

I should’ve re-read the follow-ups before asking that, I read yours before. :rolleyes:

Glad it’s not too picky about the grind. I’ve been watching these for the last couple of years and overall this one seems like the most promising model yet!

The issue makes more sense after reading Marc’s last post. :)
Yeah dude! I never jumped in on a firewood before this, though I was plenty tempted, but this one felt like a real no-brainer when I saw the design! Then in use I was very impressed, despite downsides and compromises, I am getting pretty fantastic vapor quality!

I also did my first real cleaning the other day, just iso soaked q-tip swab of the ceramic chamber and steel screen (without removing the screen) from both ends, little wiping around the ceramic vapor path below the chamber and in the WPA (remember I still can't remove my wpa) and I also wiped the chamber lid a bit (@seki I was going to ask actually if you had done that to yours at all, because if you rub too much without cleaning enough, you can just smear that brown color more staining the ceramic, so I was a little more careful and I still have a pretty good even circle that I was able to make a little more faint)

Overall was a very simple process, though not necessarily a very deep cleaning, it didn't really need it. My spiky glass piece is still clean enough as well, though it is getting a little more difficult to see the visible paper filling in it, I don't think I will clean it until I notice an effect on flavor...

@firewood do you think the temp calibration really needs to be a full 30° lower? I would have said 20 maybe, but yeah I am not having the kind of issues that some others seem to have... If anything I've gotten so good at keeping my level 3 setting of 380 on the low side, that I may need to bump it up to 390! I could also see lowering my level 1 setting of 320 though
 

rvarick

Well-Known Member
I'm making a minor firmware change on the upcoming batch to address some complaints I have gotten about temperature calibration. At least several people have mentioned that they get charring at 400 or below in some cases. This isn't an issue with a unit or two being miscalibrated, rather it is due to how I set the temperature range and affects all units. Essentially the temperature ranges are somewhat arbitrary estimates since the temperature is controlled at the heating element, not the oven. As a result, things like draw speed, draw length, length of pre-heat, ambient temperature, etc. can affect the temperature in the oven. I initially set the temperatures based on shorter, medium speed draws, but now I am starting to think that was a mistake. As a result I am planning to shift the entire temperature range by 30 degrees F, so what used to be 420 will now be 390 for example. In practice one could achieve both temperatures at a given setting by varying the draw speed etc., but I think this will be more in line with what people expect. Anybody who has a fw7 can send in their unit for a firmware update (send me an email to service@firewoodvapes.com), but it isn't necessary as long as you are comfortable doing the temp shift in your head.
So yeah looks like Marc is making an adjustment has other people who are not feeling the temp calibration... Personally I had no issue adjusting my technique to match the device, like I got to know it, how it heats, but maybe I'll get my second unit with this new tuning to compare...

Anyway if you wanted to try with your current temps more, I would suggest making your hits a little shorter by a few seconds, I also might suggest drawing a little faster? Particularly for the second half of your hit...
I'm happy to report that I had a nice session with my 7! The advice to speed up my draw, especially on the second half really helped to diminish the hot mouthpiece and vapor. Also, based on Marc’s info above I focused more on shorter, medium speed draws vs. longer and slower, convection-style draws. Charring was minimized a lot with this. Also, understanding that my highest temp setting was possibly higher (and in turn, this thing has power to be reckoned with) was helpful. It's clicking now. As always, this community and Marc really help to understand how to best work these devices. Hopefully my initial feedback didn't dissuade anyone as this is a really interesting device.

While the differences between each Firewood iteration can create new learning curves, in the end I find it really, really cool how different each one is. My 5, 6 and 7 are totally different vapes, each with a different use case, strengths, and optimal technique, etc. And the innovation on an annual basis is really something to see. This seems pretty unique in this space. Without in any way knocking other devices; how different really is a Solo II vs. a Solo I, or a Crafty+ vs. a Crafty? I'm seeing the FW7 as one I could hand to a non-vaporist, and they'd get vapor without a lot of technique, which is pretty cool. And as soon as I get a new M/M adapter I'm looking forward to running this thing back through water or a j-hook!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
I'm happy to report that I had a nice session with my 7! The advice to speed up my draw, especially on the second half really helped to diminish the hot mouthpiece and vapor. Also, based on Marc’s info above I focused more on shorter, medium speed draws vs. longer and slower, convection-style draws. Charring was minimized a lot with this. Also, understanding that my highest temp setting was possibly higher (and in turn, this thing has power to be reckoned with) was helpful. It's clicking now. As always, this community and Marc really help to understand how to best work these devices. Hopefully my initial feedback didn't dissuade anyone as this is a really interesting device.

While the differences between each Firewood iteration can create new learning curves, in the end I find it really, really cool how different each one is. My 5, 6 and 7 are totally different vapes, each with a different use case, strengths, and optimal technique, etc. And the innovation on an annual basis is really something to see. This seems pretty unique in this space. Without in any way knocking other devices; how different really is a Solo II vs. a Solo I, or a Crafty+ vs. a Crafty? I'm seeing the FW7 as one I could hand to a non-vaporist, and they'd get vapor without a lot of technique, which is pretty cool. And as soon as I get a new M/M adapter I'm looking forward to running this thing back through water or a j-hook!
Awesome dude! Glad to hear you were able to adjust technique for better results. I know it can be tricky with a new device especially when you are used to other ones that may be similar... I guess I am lucky that my prior vape experience seemed to line up well with this one, despite its unique design...

I wonder if it might have been more beneficial to just talk more about draw variation in the manual, especially as it relates to temp, like time on the button, probably what would work for the most people is some combination of the two I suppose... I mean if enough people felt like the temps were too hot for what they were set at, it does make sense to lower them, but either way you do get a wide range to work with so technique and loading are just two really big variables aside from how the temp is calibrated exactly. Anyway like I said, I look forward to testing both to determine!
 
Shit Snacks,

seki

Well-Known Member
Re: the WPA, unfortunately I broke my M/M adapter the 2nd day I had it, and am awaiting a new one currently. I may switch to using that setup more if the lip discomfort persists once I confirm my unit/technique is working as intended.
If you happen to have a ddave water wand and a Dynavap fat mouthpiece, something like this can tide you over:

It's not pretty, but it can work until your replacement arrives.

(@seki I was going to ask actually if you had done that to yours at all, because if you rub too much without cleaning enough, you can just smear that brown color more staining the ceramic, so I was a little more careful and I still have a pretty good even circle that I was able to make a little more faint)
I did an initial cleaning after about 4-5 uses. After that I decided to throw caution to the wind and see where it took me. Here is where I am after at least 25-30 sessions I'm estimating. Probably more, definitely not less:

The battery side of the main body is completely clean, no staining there whatsoever. For some background, it's been a bit since I've used the native direct draw config. I mostly use the WPA with BB9 generally set to 190°C. I am too lazy to temp step so I don't do it often. Through water I set it at 210°C. I think my native/water usage ratio is about 60/40, maybe 70/30.

I am at a point where I will have to do a cleaning. The WPA in particular is starting to stick and I definitely have to put more force into removing it. This just started over the last day or so.
 

firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
So if I wanted to forgo sending my unit back, all I'd have to do is just adjust (mentally) the temp settings expected for each # of buzzes/clicks on my unit (by ~30 degrees)? This seems easy vs. adjusted firmware if all it's doing is lowering the scale, so to speak.

If so, and for my understanding, would the below chart be accurate as far as the new temp guidelines for those with the old firmware? And for example - if I'm currently set at 350/370/390, really I may be hitting ~380/400/420?

View attachment 2408
Yes this is correct, but PLEASE NOTE - that chart is only valid on old units that don't get the update. Just want to make sure other people don't get confused.

@firewood do you think the temp calibration really needs to be a full 30° lower? I would have said 20 maybe, but yeah I am not having the kind of issues that some others seem to have... If anything I've gotten so good at keeping my level 3 setting of 380 on the low side, that I may need to bump it up to 390! I could also see lowering my level 1 setting of 320 though
Yeah I went back and forth between 20 and 30. Personally the highest I ever use is 410, and I can char if I go slow and I am sure I could get full combustion if I tried. I definitely say fuck combustion, so I want to avoid that ;) With a 30 degree shift 410 becomes the highest temp which seems right. This is my first vape where I use the lower temps because it actually still makes a lot of vapor and the taste is awesome. So i kind of wanted to err on getting people a little lower. Also, I don't think I mentioned this - for folks who want really hot temps, for example to do cotton/oil, you can click 4 times then hold to get full manual mode. In full manual mode there is no temp control, holding the button turns on heat, releasing turns it off. Also, fyi, manual mode is not saved, so you have to do 4 clicks plus hold every time you want to do a manual draw.

I wonder if it might have been more beneficial to just talk more about draw variation in the manual, especially as it relates to temp, like time on the button, probably what would work for the most people is some combination of the two I suppose... I mean if enough people felt like the temps were too hot for what they were set at, it does make sense to lower them, but either way you do get a wide range to work with so technique and loading are just two really big variables aside from how the temp is calibrated exactly. Anyway like I said, I look forward to testing both to determine!
Yes I plan to update the manual this weekend to put more info about draw speed and pre-warm up time as they relate to the balance between combustion and conduction and how they affect heat in the mouthpiece.
 
I received my 7 today. It has the new update on it! Had to ship my unit back initially because of an electrical issue. I've been doing very good

So far I've done one bowl through it and I'm excited to use this thing more. Even with the update I still feel like temp 3 in it's normal position was a little chary. I'm going to try using a faster draw next time.

The one major thing I've learned so far is you need to let the vape heat up completely and cool down completely before trying to change temps.
 
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rvarick

Well-Known Member
The one major thing I've learned so far is you need to let the vape heat up completely and cool down completely before trying to change temps.
On the heat up completely piece, do you mean going from one temp setting to another to then set an updated temp for that setting? If so, I’ve found you can immediately release the button after if gives you the # of buzzes for the setting and it will cancel out the heat up.

For instance, if you wanted to set a new temp for setting 2, you can click twice, then hold, get the two buzzes back to tell you it’s at level 2, and then let off the button right away (before the heated up buzz happens). After a few seconds it will give a longer buzz once to let you know it’s not heating. From there, you’re in setting 2 and can click 4 times to adjust.
 
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What temperature are you guys setting your units at (please specify recalibrated or not).

With a recalibrated unit I'm getting some really dark bits near the screen at 390. I don't know if I'd call it charging but it's getting pretty roasty. It gets really roasted towards the bottom at 410 and generally combusts at 430.
 
TheManWithSomeGoals,

rvarick

Well-Known Member
What temperature are you guys setting your units at (please specify recalibrated or not).

With a recalibrated unit I'm getting some really dark bits near the screen at 390. I don't know if I'd call it charging but it's getting pretty roasty. It gets really roasted towards the bottom at 410 and generally combusts at 430.
I’ve landed on the following. Note: I have a unit with the original calibration so I’ve listed both temps for reference (old config/updated temp estimate):
  • Setting 1 - 350/380 (3 clicks, 5 clicks)
  • Setting 2 - 370/400 (3 clicks, 7 clicks)
  • Setting 3 - 390/420 (3 clicks, 9 clicks)
The middle temp is my favorite. The top temp can char mildly, but seems to be safely below combustion for me. The low temp is low on vapor but is great for a few hits before settling into a deeper extraction later. Would love to hear what others are using as well.
 
I’ve landed on the following. Note: I have a unit with the original calibration so I’ve listed both temps for reference (old config/updated temp estimate):
  • Setting 1 - 350/380 (3 clicks, 5 clicks)
  • Setting 2 - 370/400 (3 clicks, 7 clicks)
  • Setting 3 - 390/420 (3 clicks, 9 clicks)
The middle temp is my favorite. The top temp can char mildly, but seems to be safely below combustion for me. The low temp is low on vapor but is great for a few hits before settling into a deeper extraction later. Would love to hear what others are using as well.
Hmm I'm wondering if my unit may have accidentally not been recalibrated when I sent it back in. I'm finding anything above 390 and I'm getting abv darker han I'm comfortable getting.

370 is also my favorite temp, which is making me wonder even more.

I've found a lot of success starting at 370 going up to 380 for a few hits and finishing off 390.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
Yeah I am still enjoying 320-350-380 with my originally calibrated FW7 (only using WPA with my spiky bent cooler 18mm female mp)
 
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Shit Snacks,
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rvarick

Well-Known Member
Hmm I'm wondering if my unit may have accidentally not been recalibrated when I sent it back in. I'm finding anything above 390 and I'm getting abv darker han I'm comfortable getting.

370 is also my favorite temp, which is making me wonder even more.

I've found a lot of success starting at 370 going up to 380 for a few hits and finishing off 390.
If it helps, I was getting a lot more charring at my “390” setting before I sped up my draw speed, shortened my draws, and started letting off the button about 1/2 to 3/4 into the draw. All have helped a lot.

Totally unrelated, I’m really liking the setup below for my 7 using the 14mm Dry Vapor Cooler from Ddave’s “Ultimate Modular JHook” kit (with my M/M adapter). It offers a lot of cooling, and the ability to see the vapor production is nice 👍.

B84D0B4A-925A-445B-8A80-BA961FB146FC.jpeg
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
If it helps, I was getting a lot more charring at my “390” setting before I sped up my draw speed, shortened my draws, and started letting off the button about 1/2 to 3/4 into the draw. All have helped a lot.

Totally unrelated, I’m really liking the setup below for my 7 using the 14mm Dry Vapor Cooler from Ddave’s “Ultimate Modular JHook” kit (with my M/M adapter). It offers a lot of cooling, and the ability to see the vapor production is nice 👍.

View attachment 2733
Oh yeah, I think how you draw and use the button has a lot more impact than the temp settings themselves, which is why I didn't find recalibration necessary for myself, though I look forward to trying them out with my eventual second FW7 (and the standard mouthpiece again lol)

That looks good, I have one of those I should try too, with a female adapter... Question though, you don't use it upside down like that do you? Is that just for the photo? I always keep my FW7 right side up, despite the less than ideal ergonomics, although sometimes I will hold it more on its side in the middle of the session too.
 
Shit Snacks,

rvarick

Well-Known Member
That looks good, I have one of those I should try too, with a female adapter... Question though, you don't use it upside down like that do you? Is that just for the photo? I always keep my FW7 right side up, despite the less than ideal ergonomics, although sometimes I will hold it more on its side in the middle of the session too.
I’ve been using it 90 degrees clockwise from how it’s pictured, with the wand aimed right at me (and the FW sideways I guess). That was the best ergonomic option I could come up with so far without having the device upside down, although I do pack down enough that the load is “tip proof” hopefully.

I went with the JHook kit thinking the hook piece might offer other ergonomic options (and also as it was the cheapest one with the cooling unit), but in retrospect I might have been better off getting the one with the water wand, as I could have used that instead of the m/m, plus with my dynavaps.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
Finally realized I could do this, now it really makes me think of my Lily! using that glass wpa from Triihouse reversed as a FW7 mp:



Of course it doesn't offer as much cooling as my go-to mp that I've been posting photos of here, but it is more compact and simpler as one piece, while the right angle bend does help cool quite well considering the shorter narrower path... Pretty nice for lower temps!
 
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