Firewood Vaporizer

rvarick

Well-Known Member
I am sending all new units with a short segment of silicone tubing that is the perfect width needed to seal with dynavap sized stems. I'll send one with your repair as well (and any other repairs)

Yes they are the same size as the one already used in the mouthpiece, however silicone tubing works much better since it stays in place, wheras orings move around too much.

You are one of the first customer who gets the tiny silicone tube with your order, hope you enjoy!


That looks like a great option. You save money not having to get a wpa, plus it looks like it'd be more ergonomic than using a wpa with a small glass piece because of how it comes off straight instead of a right angle.
That's cool regarding the silicone tubing now being offered Marc! Would you be willing to share the specs for this (or a source) in case those with current units would like to acquire something similar? Thanks in advance.
 

firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Would you be willing to share the specs for this (or a source) in case those with current units would like to acquire something similar?
It is the same stuff I used for the mouthpiece on fw4 and fw5 - 0.25" OD, 0.125"ID silicone tubing.

If you have the original baggy of extra stuff that came with the fw4 or fw5 you might have a little bit of the tubing already.
 
Last edited:

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
It is the same stuff I used for the mouthpiece on fw4 and fw5 - 0.25" OD, 0.125"ID silicone tubing.

If you have the original baggy of extra stuff that came with the fw4 or fw5 you might have a little bit of the tubing already.

Having taken a closer look at the glass tube in the FW7 I think it`s fragility is going to create too many broken tube events to make futzing with that particular mod (adding a cooling stem extension) to make it worthwhile for most users.

Though I'd be happy to be proven wrong!


,
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
I feel the same way I think, also I don't know that it is like practical, since it is not portable really like that? Like I don't see the benefit of using it like that instead of just using the WPA with various 14male stems? Aside from potential or ergonomics, but it is just so tall, a little unwieldy I think? Like it is a fun mod for people who have DynaVap stems, but I don't think it is like a real solution?

I am working with a glass maker, on a 14 mm male custom stem, that is likely not realistic for mass producing, but should prove pretty portable with the WPA (but I still have problems with how blocky the WPA makes things, ruining the ergonomics imo)
 

firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Having taken a closer look at the glass tube in the FW7 I think it`s fragility is going to create too many broken tube events to make futzing with that particular mod (adding a cooling stem extension) to make it worthwhile for most users.

Though I'd be happy to be proven wrong!


,
Valid concern. I think there is a sweet spot where only about 1/4" of the tube is sticking out and the silicone tubing is 1/4". When it is only sticking out that much the glass stem will fall off rather than break the inner glass tube. I think it is still tight enough to prevent it from falling off though, unless you really whacked it by accident.


I feel the same way I think, also I don't know that it is like practical, since it is not portable really like that?
I agree it is definitely not portable unless you removed the extra stem and transported that separately. I think it is mainly useful when at home. The stock stem plus the extra stem seem to cool it down a lot for me such that I think it is one of my favorite ways to use it at home.

It would definitely be nice to have a portable solution for custom stems so I'll keep thinking about that.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
Valid concern. I think there is a sweet spot where only about 1/4" of the tube is sticking out and the silicone tubing is 1/4". When it is only sticking out that much the glass stem will fall off rather than break the inner glass tube. I think it is still tight enough to prevent it from falling off though, unless you really whacked it by accident.



I agree it is definitely not portable unless you removed the extra stem and transported that separately. I think it is mainly useful when at home. The stock stem plus the extra stem seem to cool it down a lot for me such that I think it is one of my favorite ways to use it at home.

It would definitely be nice to have a portable solution for custom stems so I'll keep thinking about that.

Yeah that makes sense, easier to transport than with the WPA and a j hook, also I can see how that would provide great cooling with the two glass pieces and you still have the right angle bend where the ceramic connects to the glass for extra cooling. I can't wait to show you what I came up with for this custom 14m male glass piece!
 
Shit Snacks,

JEMSKU

Well-Known Member
@firewood

In your original post about redesigning the mouthpiece, your phrasing makes me want to ask, what is it that you think makes the mouthpiece work well for you but not for others? Is this maybe more of an education issue than a design issue? The reports of very hot mouthpieces has worried me, but hearing from others that it's perfectly fine has me wondering what's really going on here.

That being said, I do have an idea/question for the possible redesign. I don't own the vape, been waiting it out a little, so I apologize if I'm way off base here. Is it possible to create a new attachment that just abandons the current glass piece, and flips the airpath exit to the other end of the device? This short airpath would end with a large o-ring lined hole to accept glass stems in the fashion of stickybrick or dreamwood design... This would free up space in the other direction to possibly incorporate a storage compartment for the stem when not in use. I imagine that the attachment would be larger than the current stock mouthpiece, but space will always be a compromise for cooling right? And as I said I don't own the vape so the size requirements might be completely unrealistic :shrug:
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Valid concern. I think there is a sweet spot where only about 1/4" of the tube is sticking out and the silicone tubing is 1/4". When it is only sticking out that much the glass stem will fall off rather than break the inner glass tube. I think it is still tight enough to prevent it from falling off though, unless you really whacked it by accident

I know what you mean...I put that config together a couple hours ago with 4 o-rings and hula stem and discovered that 1/4 " you're referring to; I remain skeptical....something in that config is gonna take it on the chin! Let's just say I wouldn't try it without a backup inner glass tube on hand or one is going to quite possibly be without the use of a FW 7 for awhile.

May you prove me wrong! 😎

.

EDIT: What if, every order of inner glass tube part a customer orders you include some pre-cut, ready to go, silicone tubing/liner? :brow:
 
Last edited:
Fat Freddy,
  • Like
Reactions: moondog

SixStringToker

I'm not wearing any socks!!
My spare Ditanium mouthpiece goes quite nicely with the wpa. The shortest length of silicone tubing (doesn't go any deeper into the FW than the mouthpiece) makes it a snug fit.

 

firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@firewood

In your original post about redesigning the mouthpiece, your phrasing makes me want to ask, what is it that you think makes the mouthpiece work well for you but not for others? Is this maybe more of an education issue than a design issue? The reports of very hot mouthpieces has worried me, but hearing from others that it's perfectly fine has me wondering what's really going on here.

That being said, I do have an idea/question for the possible redesign. I don't own the vape, been waiting it out a little, so I apologize if I'm way off base here. Is it possible to create a new attachment that just abandons the current glass piece, and flips the airpath exit to the other end of the device? This short airpath would end with a large o-ring lined hole to accept glass stems in the fashion of stickybrick or dreamwood design... This would free up space in the other direction to possibly incorporate a storage compartment for the stem when not in use. I imagine that the attachment would be larger than the current stock mouthpiece, but space will always be a compromise for cooling right? And as I said I don't own the vape so the size requirements might be completely unrealistic :shrug:
I think some people reported a hot mouthpiece due to drawing too fast and too soon. However, it is also relative. I personally use my vapes through water sometimes because it allows much bigger rips than with just the mouthpiece. You can take bigger rips because the vapor is much cooler and also the mouthpiece never gets hot no matter how hard you pull. This isn't anything unique about firewood - almost any vape is cooler through water. Lately I have also been using a dimpled glass stem fitted to the end of the stock mouthpiece for extra cooling. The point I am making is that cooling is always a compromise with a portable because good cooling takes up space while a portable should be small. If I want to take my vape in my pocket I don't really want to carry around extra cooling so I'll just use the stock mp in that case. I think it is fair for me to ask - for anybody who reported hot mp or hot vapor - do you own or know of a portable vape that is equally portable/pocketable to the firewood, yet provides more cooling and a cooler mp?

edit - also need to factor in cleanability. Extra cooling also makes some units very hard to clean. I don't want to spend half my time cleaning the vape, so I wanted to make sure it is easy to clean. Also I am not quite sure what you are describing for your idea - any chance for a picture?

What if, every order of inner glass tube part a customer orders you include some pre-cut, ready to go, silicone tubing/liner? :brow:
I started doing this already, new orders get a small piece of silicone tubing.
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
I started doing this already, new orders get a small piece of silicone tubing.

Great! I ordered my own tubing off Amazon, 10 ft for $10 and personally I found that using 4 black o-rings seems to accommodate the ID variance in my various glass stems better than the silicon tubing does. Either way, I think the less handling of the stock glass tube the better as it looks and feels fairly fragile to me. I think I'll I'll go with the WPA here soonly. :)

Also, while I've got you, I just wanted to clarify and confirm my understanding of the firmware adjustment that some of us had you do. You see, sometimes I'm a little slow on the uptake due to a phenomenon called "chemo brain". The various chemo meds have a cumulative impact over time on one's cognitive capacity, e.g., Dexamethasone (the uber steroid Trump is taking right now) which I take a hefty dose of on Thursdays. It's a drug used to treat inflammation generally but also to treat cancers such as lymphoma, bone cancer, leukemia, brain and spine tumors, and multiple myeloma. Some patients do just fine with it and others can experience heavy duty mental/emotional issues. I do okay with it, in fact I enjoy the energy it brings, but I've known others who have said it makes them feel suicidal. I know, I know, TMI! LOL!

Back to the clarification regarding the firmware adjustment. So those of us who had the adjustment done to our FW7, if we want a pre-set temperature of approximately 390 degrees F, then we should create a pre-set of 420 degrees F, correct? Or in other words, what ever temp we set it to per your "click v. buzzes" chart, it's actually about 30 degrees cooler? Yes?

TIA!


.
 
Fat Freddy,

JEMSKU

Well-Known Member
... any chance for a picture?

Again I must stress that I don't have a FW7 to refer to - which barely excuses the embarrassingly bad drawing ability but I hope it may excuse me if as I said I'm way off base on design here:

Firewood 7 mockup
It is meant to show the original design against the accessory I am proposing. The poorly done cross section in the bottommost image is meant to outline the air path as well as the storage compartment. Please ignore that the image shows a stem that is too large to fit in said compartment, it's just a concept, not a technical diagram 😅
 

VaporWare

Well-Known Member
Onboard storage is cool, but if you skipped that the stem could go the opposite direction and not stick so far out with so little on the inside.

With so much of the stem outside, apart from the aesthetics and ease of carry/use, I’d still be concerned about dislodging or snapping the long cooling stem and/or glass it was attached to.

Most compromises you’d have to make for that small end of the stem to fit in would be the same for one that went through the whole device.
 
VaporWare,

JEMSKU

Well-Known Member
Onboard storage is cool, but if you skipped that the stem could go the opposite direction and not stick so far out with so little on the inside.

With so much of the stem outside, apart from the aesthetics and ease of carry/use, I’d still be concerned about dislodging or snapping the long cooling stem and/or glass it was attached to.

Most compromises you’d have to make for that small end of the stem to fit in would be the same for one that went through the whole device.

I like the layout you are describing. My intent with my design was to retain the stowable/protected mouthpiece for travel. The biggest problem I saw with it was ergonomics when using the button, but your idea would solve that at the cost of protection.

As for the compromises you outline, yes, it has compromises, but solving those problems leaves you with basically the stock setup. I definitely don't want to suggest that the stock design is bad or that the engineering isn't clever, I was just trying to fill a space where some users would prefer more cooling, but don't want to walk around with the wpa+j-hook or custom glass or some other cumbersome solution. There is always compromise, but I feel that this is fairly balanced.

And just to clear up a couple points, you mention a risk to the glass the cooling stem is attached to. That's not part of my design, I'm not sure what glass you are referring to. As for the smaller end of the mouthpiece, that's just poor drawing ability, it's meant to be a straight stem!
 

VaporWare

Well-Known Member
I like the layout you are describing. My intent with my design was to retain the stowable/protected mouthpiece for travel. The biggest problem I saw with it was ergonomics when using the button, but your idea would solve that at the cost of protection.

As for the compromises you outline, yes, it has compromises, but solving those problems leaves you with basically the stock setup. I definitely don't want to suggest that the stock design is bad or that the engineering isn't clever, I was just trying to fill a space where some users would prefer more cooling, but don't want to walk around with the wpa+j-hook or custom glass or some other cumbersome solution. There is always compromise, but I feel that this is fairly balanced.

And just to clear up a couple points, you mention a risk to the glass the cooling stem is attached to. That's not part of my design, I'm not sure what glass you are referring to. As for the smaller end of the mouthpiece, that's just poor drawing ability, it's meant to be a straight stem!

I was referring to the cooling stem attached to the stock mouthpiece with silicon or o-rings like @firewood showed before. Both that and your design with the small portion of the stem surrounded by wood seems a lot easier to drop or snap off compared to a hole going nearly the length of the device and keeping most of the stem inside the wood.

Yes this is similar to the stock setup, but it could be a larger diameter for these dimpled cooling stems or it could even be set up with glass balls or other cooling features.

I could be wrong but I don’t think it’s being inside the wood that heats the glass up so much, I think it’s the oven temps and diameter/length/straightness of the vapor path.

I’d say it would probably be a one-piece (as opposed to adapter and j-hook for example) home-use dry cooling solution that you could take with you if you really wanted.

I don’t know the FW7 internals well, but it would probably also be possible to just add some cooling into the stock portable vapor path instead.
 
VaporWare,

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
for anybody who reported hot mp or hot vapor - do you own or know of a portable vape that is equally portable/pocketable to the firewood, yet provides more cooling and a cooler mp?

Yes. For instance the Ascent having the bowl at the bottom and the telescopic stem system was a good idea at first glance, excepted well, two telescopic glass stems don't make a good seal so there were air dilution issues, especially because there was a design flaw in the top rubber piece which developed a gap over time (long story short)

But then the Nomad did it right. The key is to have the heater at the bottom and use the entire vape height to allow for a longer stem that doesn't protrude like an effin' walkie talkie antenna!

We know already that stem length has a huge impact on cooling efficiency. A few extra centimeters of glass can make a night and day difference in that aspect.

You also gain space by having the stem itself acting as a bowl. In the Nomad it's outside air > heater > optional screen > [stem = load > screen > cooling]
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
I think some people reported a hot mouthpiece due to drawing too fast and too soon. However, it is also relative. I personally use my vapes through water sometimes because it allows much bigger rips than with just the mouthpiece. You can take bigger rips because the vapor is much cooler and also the mouthpiece never gets hot no matter how hard you pull. This isn't anything unique about firewood - almost any vape is cooler through water. Lately I have also been using a dimpled glass stem fitted to the end of the stock mouthpiece for extra cooling. The point I am making is that cooling is always a compromise with a portable because good cooling takes up space while a portable should be small. If I want to take my vape in my pocket I don't really want to carry around extra cooling so I'll just use the stock mp in that case. I think it is fair for me to ask - for anybody who reported hot mp or hot vapor - do you own or know of a portable vape that is equally portable/pocketable to the firewood, yet provides more cooling and a cooler mp?

edit - also need to factor in cleanability. Extra cooling also makes some units very hard to clean. I don't want to spend half my time cleaning the vape, so I wanted to make sure it is easy to clean. Also I am not quite sure what you are describing for your idea - any chance for a picture?


I started doing this already, new orders get a small piece of silicone tubing.

Well almost all of the glass stem based convection vapes do not get too hot at the tip of the mouthpiece, also like a DaVinci IQ2 does not get too hot at the mouthpiece when using the WPA as a mouthpiece at least...
Yes. For instance the Ascent having the bowl at the bottom and the telescopic stem system was a good idea at first glance, excepted well, two telescopic glass stems don't make a good seal so there were air dilution issues, especially because there was a design flaw in the top rubber piece which developed a gap over time (long story short)

But then the Nomad did it right. The key is to have the heater at the bottom and use the entire vape height to allow for a longer stem that doesn't protrude like an effin' walkie talkie antenna!

We know already that stem length has a huge impact on cooling efficiency. A few extra centimeters of glass can make a night and day difference in that aspect.

You also gain space by having the stem itself acting as a bowl. In the Nomad it's outside air > heater > optional screen > [stem = load > screen > cooling]

Again I find the main issue to be the tip of the mouthpiece getting a hot on the lips, not the actual vapor cooling itself... And yes there are many vapes that don't suffer from this issue, however I suppose the most super portable vapes do tend to have this issue? I don't think Fury does but like vleafgo and aero did (material is a factor too, plastic better than ceramic, glass depends) I know glad spiked stems get very hot as the spikes absorb the heat, so with those it is important to have room at the tip without spikes so the tip doesn't get too warm... Sometimes it will depend on the glass stem design, and the vape itself (for example the nub cooler gets too hot on my lips using with my Tetra, but it is fine to use with my Milaana) Also another factor in the tip of the mouthpiece getting hot on the lips is the fact that it is thin glass, thin glass with a narrow diameter will get hotter faster than wider thicker glass?
 
Last edited:

firewood

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Back to the clarification regarding the firmware adjustment. So those of us who had the adjustment done to our FW7, if we want a pre-set temperature of approximately 390 degrees F, then we should create a pre-set of 420 degrees F, correct? Or in other words, what ever temp we set it to per your "click v. buzzes" chart, it's actually about 30 degrees cooler? Yes?
I'd say just pretent the old manual never existed and just use the new one. It will be more accurate for how people use it unless you are taking extremely short draws.

Yes. For instance the Ascent having the bowl at the bottom and the telescopic stem system was a good idea at first glance, excepted well, two telescopic glass stems don't make a good seal so there were air dilution issues, especially because there was a design flaw in the top rubber piece which developed a gap over time (long story short)

But then the Nomad did it right. The key is to have the heater at the bottom and use the entire vape height to allow for a longer stem that doesn't protrude like an effin' walkie talkie antenna!

We know already that stem length has a huge impact on cooling efficiency. A few extra centimeters of glass can make a night and day difference in that aspect.

You also gain space by having the stem itself acting as a bowl. In the Nomad it's outside air > heater > optional screen > [stem = load > screen > cooling]


Well almost all of the glass stem based convection vapes do not get too hot at the tip of the mouthpiece, also like a DaVinci IQ2 does not get too hot at the mouthpiece when using the WPA as a mouthpiece at least...


Again I find the main issue to be the tip of the mouthpiece getting a hot on the lips, not the actual vapor cooling itself... And yes there are many vapes that don't suffer from this issue, however I suppose the most super portable vapes do tend to have this issue? I don't think Fury does but like vleafgo and aero did (material is a factor too, plastic better than ceramic, glass depends) I know glad spiked stems get very hot as the spikes absorb the heat, so with those it is important to have room at the tip without spikes so the tip doesn't get too warm... Sometimes it will depend on the glass stem design, and the vape itself (for example the nub cooler gets too hot on my lips using with my Tetra, but it is fine to use with my Milaana) Also another factor in the tip of the mouthpiece getting hot on the lips is the fact that it is thin glass, thin glass with a narrow diameter will get hotter faster than wider thicker glass?

Fair enough, although the ascent isn't a good example if it didn't seal consistently (goes back to the glass tolerances issues)

The Nomad setup is very similar to what I am thinking for as an alternative mp, i.e. basically the same as it is now but allows thicker glass tubing. One of my issues is actually that I have too much length since a lot of the available stems are a little too short for fw7.

Another problem though - I really feel like having a glass tube sticking out makes it less pocketable, which is why i have put some effort into making it retractable. With thicker glass maybe it isn't as big an issue but I think it is still a problem.

Maybe I can solve both problems at once by using an interior extension piece that would allow it to retract and add the extra length I need. I need to give it some thought.
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
I'd say just pretent the old manual never existed and just use the new one. It will be more accurate for how people use it unless you are taking extremely short draws

And the NEW MANUAL can be found where, exactly? I checked the FW7 manual on your website but didnt see anything new there. I'm sorry, did I miss something some where?

Anyone?

Thanks!
.
 
Fat Freddy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
And the NEW MANUAL can be found where, exactly? I checked the FW7 manual on your website but didnt see anything new there. I'm sorry, did I miss something some where?

Anyone?

Thanks!
.

Did you receive two FW7s? Each one should have come with paper manual, the newer updated unit should have a new manual...?
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Did you receive two FW7s? Each one should have come with paper manual, the newer updated unit should have a new manual...?

I have a paper manual that I printed off the website PRIOR to the recalibration discussion here on FC, and then I have the exact same manual, in terms of content, that came with the actual unit after it was returned post heater adjustment ...no difference between the two.

So is there or ain't there a REVISED manual that includes the recalibration updates? :shrug:

Anybody else? @firewood ?

TIA

.
 
Fat Freddy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
I have a paper manual that I printed off the website PRIOR to the recalibration discussion here on FC, and then I have the exact same manual, in terms of content, that came with the actual unit after it was returned post heater adjustment ...no difference between the two.

So is there or ain't there a REVISED manual that includes the recalibration updates? :shrug:

Anybody else? @firewood ?

TIA

.

I think maybe you we are confused, the manual should be the same, but the unit is calibrated 30° cooler... The settings are still the same, 380 is still called 380 and you still set it the same way, but that setting of 380 would actually be 350 on the prior units' calibration, like on my unit 350 is 380 on your unit... So mine set to highest setting is 30° higher than yours can go basically... Does that make sense?
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
I think maybe you we are confused, the manual should be the same, but the unit is calibrated 30° cooler... The settings are still the same, 380 is still called 380 and you still set it the same way, but that setting of 380 would actually be 350 on the prior units' calibration, like on my unit 350 is 380 on your unit... So mine set to highest setting is 30° higher than yours can go basically... Does that make sense?
And what I had posted to Marc earlier is re-posted here (below) and I believe says precisely what you have said, i.e., "Or in other words, what ever temp we set it to per your "click v. buzzes" chart, it's actually about 30 degrees cooler? Yes?" (see my entire post to Mark below.)

Fat Freddy said:
Back to the clarification regarding the firmware adjustment. So those of us who had the adjustment done to our FW7, if we want a pre-set temperature of approximately 390 degrees F, then we should create a pre-set of 420 degrees F, correct? Or in other words, what ever temp we set it to per your "click v. buzzes" chart, it's actually about 30 degrees cooler? Yes?

But then Marc responded by saying those with recalibrated units should pretend the OLD MANUAL never existed and we should just use the NEW ONE.

Marc said: "I'd say just pretent the old manual never existed and just use the new one. It will be more accurate for how people use it unless you are taking extremely short draws."

The NEW ONE? WHAT? NEW ONE? Where is the NEW MANUAL...where can it be found, this user is asking, as Marc has indicated?

Yep, I for one have been a little confused but unless Marc advises otherwise I'm going with your interpretation (which is and has always been my own as well.)

Make sense?

.
 
Fat Freddy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LAANAAAAAAA
And what I had posted to Marc earlier is re-posted here (below) and I believe says precisely what you have said, i.e., "Or in other words, what ever temp we set it to per your "click v. buzzes" chart, it's actually about 30 degrees cooler? Yes?" (see my entire post to Mark below.)



But then Marc responded by saying those with recalibrated units should pretend the OLD MANUAL never existed and we should just use the NEW ONE.



The NEW ONE? WHAT? NEW ONE? Where is the NEW MANUAL...where can it be found, this user is asking, as Marc has indicated?

Yep, I for one have been a little confused but unless Marc advises otherwise I'm going with your interpretation (which is and has always been my own as well.)

Make sense?

.

Yeah I think really it's new unit with manual, and pretend the old unit with manual never existed for you, bc temp settings are relative though you are comparing it to your previous experience, which I'm sure will end up happening to me when I finally get my second FW7! Since I was good with the current calibration and tuned mine low.
 
Shit Snacks,

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
So @Shit Snacks you would agree then that if an owner of an recalibrated FW7 wants to create a pre-set at an actual 350 degrees F, then that would be accomplished by setting the pre-set to 380 degree F... you agree?

.
 
Fat Freddy,
Top Bottom