Firewood Vaporizer

Daprezz

Well-Known Member
So I put a little hemp fibre ball in the L joint to restrict the airflow differently.
Wow that was stupid ! Don't waist your time trying it. It just "kind" of works and ends clogging your glass tip when fiber gets a bit reclaim heavy. I was too vaped I think :doh:
Far better solution : hemp fiber flat disc in the bowl, flattened and heat-shaped against the screen. Guaranteed airflaw restriction heat jump without clogging. Even better, it's possible to have it as an option in just one bowl.
 

Daprezz

Well-Known Member
Not much chatting about this super vape. Now that I mastered my technique it's clearly my favorite, It just passed ahead of my omnivong in usage, even at home because for out and about it's the champ with it's stealthiness. it looks a bit strange but people can't see it when you palm it.

I stopped the hemp fiber method I used for even more micro-dosing at extreme temps, it's not really "clean" for stirring. I now put an extra screen from the top in just one bowl , that forms like a basket screen holded by the little fins, when I want to micro-microdose at about 0.05-0.07 g.
For me to fully extract the normal bowl needs at least 0.1 to have enough material volume for air restriction at the end as I climb to high temps (around 440°F/230°C I guess). Also medium grind works better at these high temps as with fine grind the bowl gets "emptied" with the smaller allready vaped particles going through the screen. When I pack the normal bowl a bit too loose I transfer the remaining ABV to my reduced bowl and I take one or 2 more heavy-CBD sleepy hits at max temp before going to sleep.

I don't remember who I saw this technique from but also the vapcap spinning mouthpiece with one of the large x-rings in the mouth side works with 10mm water tools.

I wanted to ebonize it (nice cheap and effective technique given by Marc, I'll try it with a less precious and complex wood piece) but now I got used to this rich walnut color and I'l just put some tung oil ( I would like to avoid the yellowish tan of oil and keep it more matte but nevermind)
 
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rvarick

Well-Known Member
I just finally picked up a FW5 thanks in large part to all the great info here! I had a couple questions I was hoping folks could answer: Is the ceramic tray supposed to sort of “click” into place when a bowl is lined up with the heater? Mine seems to slide freely, and all the notches on the bottom seem to offer is a way to tell visually if it’s lined up. Wasn’t sure if this was consistent with others. Also: I’ve been getting some weak results 2 days in. What kind of pack and draw speed should I be using? Like should the pack be more towards loose, or tight? Does a half pack work, or does it need to be at least 3/4 full? And is the optimal draw speed more towards very slow, or instead right under the “too fast” buzz limit? And for grind, does this matter, or is fine or medium better? Thanks in advance!
 
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Daprezz

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I just finally picked up a FW5 thanks in large part to all the great info here! I had a couple questions I was hoping folks could answer: Is the ceramic tray supposed to sort of “click” into place when a bowl is lined up with the heater? Mine seems to slide freely, and all the notches on the bottom seem to offer is a way to tell visually if it’s lined up. Wasn’t sure if this was consistent with others. Also: I’ve been getting some weak results 2 days in. What kind of pack and draw speed should I be using? Like should the pack be more towards loose, or tight? Does a half pack work, or does it need to be at least 3/4 full? And is the optimal draw speed more towards very slow, or instead right under the “too fast” buzz limit? And for grind, does this matter, or is fine or medium better? Thanks in advance!
I had the same kind of difficulties when I got it.
The tray doesn't click but it kind of stucks a bit more when the o-ring and bowl match. Yes the notches are a visual Mark. Also the tray fits a bit tighter when the wood heats during use. there was definitely a learning curve for the draw for me especially as mine was calibrated a bit low and had to send it back (hope it's not your case).
Packing is good for you ! I think they are many possible packing/ draw speed combinations depending on users temp and draw style preference. You may draw slow or fast but either way you got to draw "strong" making a good seal with your mouth feeling the air restriction. If you feel it's airy you better slow down or repack it stronger, if you feel it "primes" your herb you can go faster. If you draw strongly the buzz is a good indicator that it's getting the job done with high restriction, you can just reamin a bit "under" it. For me 3/4 packing is not enough if I want too climb to very high temps as the plant volume diminishes with extraction and there isn't enough restriction at the end. I tried fine grind with better results for the first hits at medium temps but finally I prefer medium grind because at high temps small vaped particles go through the screen while stirring emptying the bowl, diminishing restriction.

Sorry for the dense, maybe not so clear awnser, but I feel you, having been through the same interrogations. You will see once you find your technique it totally worths it. Il love it now.

Anyhow in the beginning of a bowl, even half packed you should half easily dense vapor at medium setting from the end of first and definitely for the second hit. If not, suck the straw more tightly and check your seal with the card method presented on the site. My problems where mainly for evenly finishing the bowl with very dark abv at high temps.
 
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HellsWindStaff

Dharma Initiate
I apologize if this has been answered but does the ceramic tray reverse? I would rather reverse it then it sticking 4 bowls out the back

Didn’t even know this existed until yesterday looks awesome!
 
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Mr Mellish

Well-Known Member
I just spent two weeks in CA. I took the FW4 and the FW5 because they are easily cleaned. I had more time than I typically get at home, so a group of us experimented. Overall, they preferred the 4. To be honest, I think that if I had brought the 3, they would have preferred that to the 4. The group I was with asked how they could get the 4 and I had to say it wasn't available. It's unfortunate. I'm intrigued to see where the 6 goes (if there is one), but I'm hoping it goes back toward the 3/4 and skips the 5 (or does a better job of making the 5 attractive). So far, the 5 is, unfortunately, my least favorite of the Firewoods.
 

Daprezz

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does a better job of making the 5 attractive
What do you mean by this aesthetically or functionnaly? Is it the form factor or you pefer it unregulated ? If I could change something that would only be to make a bit more ramp up nervous at high temps and maybe 10 ° C more for max temp. Never tried the 4 though. But I love the objects design and really like to load several bowls and need just a toothpick and a spare battery for the day.
 
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dac13

Well-Known Member
I just spent two weeks in CA. I took the FW4 and the FW5 because they are easily cleaned. I had more time than I typically get at home, so a group of us experimented. Overall, they preferred the 4. To be honest, I think that if I had brought the 3, they would have preferred that to the 4. The group I was with asked how they could get the 4 and I had to say it wasn't available. It's unfortunate. I'm intrigued to see where the 6 goes (if there is one), but I'm hoping it goes back toward the 3/4 and skips the 5 (or does a better job of making the 5 attractive). So far, the 5 is, unfortunately, my least favorite of the Firewoods.
I'm also curious what makes you prefer the 3 and 4 over the 5 because most people say the 5 blows the 4 out of the water. Thanks for sharing your thoughts
 

Mr Mellish

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What do you mean by this aesthetically or functionnaly? Is it the form factor or you pefer it unregulated ? If I could change something that would only be to make a bit more ramp up nervous at high temps and maybe 10 ° C more for max temp. Never tried the 4 though. But I love the objects design and really like to load several bowls and need just a toothpick and a spare battery for the day.

I'm also curious what makes you prefer the 3 and 4 over the 5 because most people say the 5 blows the 4 out of the water. Thanks for sharing your thoughts

Sorry for not being clear enough. I think the flavor on the 3 beats the 4 and the 5. I think the extraction I've experienced is better on the 3 and the 4 than the 5. And, personally, I hate dealing with that tray and trying to get it pulled out. However, understand that I am in a situation where I have limited opportunities to enjoy the device. If I were using it every day, all day, I might prefer the 5. Given that I'll probably get one shot a day, at best, fucking around with that tray is just annoying.

Hopefully, that clear things up. I'm not saying the 5 is a bad device. I'm just saying it doesn't play to my needs. The people who have experienced the 3/4 and then the 5 have seemed to prefer the 3 or 4 over the 5. I can't speak to that, though, since I didn't ask for feedback and they have all been vape newbs.
 
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Daprezz

Well-Known Member
For me the tray is zero problem. Especially if you use one bowl, to compare with other versions, you don't take it off. if I use one bowl I find it easier to use than holding a mouthpiece or laying it somewhere while stirring. Just a little push with my nail from the backside and a little push back when done. If you use one bowl you can forget there are other ones behind and see it like a system to pop out the bowl for stirring and push it back no mouthpiece to hold no fussing. No extra bowls sticking out either. For me the tray is only a pro : more options for out and about and you can forget it if you don't like it.

For the extraction I guess an unregulated device allows more full extraction as the limit is combustion. I give you that I had to set the max temp to the max and get the right drawing and packing techniques to have acceptably even ABV and full extraction finishing a bowl (for my taste wich is on the "dark", close to combustion, side). And, indeed, I don't think that it's the most suitable device for vape newbs as there is a learning curve for optimal use.
 
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Daprezz,

Django53

Member
Sorry for not being clear enough. I think the flavor on the 3 beats the 4 and the 5. I think the extraction I've experienced is better on the 3 and the 4 than the 5. And, personally, I hate dealing with that tray and trying to get it pulled out. However, understand that I am in a situation where I have limited opportunities to enjoy the device. If I were using it every day, all day, I might prefer the 5. Given that I'll probably get one shot a day, at best, fucking around with that tray is just annoying.

Hopefully, that clear things up. I'm not saying the 5 is a bad device. I'm just saying it doesn't play to my needs. The people who have experienced the 3/4 and then the 5 have seemed to prefer the 3 or 4 over the 5. I can't speak to that, though, since I didn't ask for feedback and they have all been vape newbs.

Alright I've never posted on here but have been reading for years. Finally had to write something after reading this. Mr. Mellish it sounds like something is wrong with your unit and I would suggest going through the whole FAQ page on the FW website and emailing Marc.

I also have a FW4 and the FW5 completely blows it out of the water and it's not even close. You very well could have an air leak with your unit or even a calibration issue. I actually had an air leak on my unit when I first got it and at first wasn't impressed either. I was even holding a credit card in place like the FAQ suggests but still there was air coming through that I couldn't tell at first. Once Marc helped me fix the air leak this thing totally changed. You should be able to hold a credit card super tightly in place with even a slow draw from the mouthpiece with no sound of air or feeling of air coming through at all.

Finally, there is a lot of misinformation online about packing this. It works best by packing very tightly, all the way to the top and then tamped down and repacked to the top. (These are Marc's instructions.) Watch how Marc does it on the FAQ page. Those little bowls hold a lot of material and work best with as much air restriction as you can get.

Seeing some of the other posts on here and some people who have struggled I wanted to share my experience. The FW5 certainly had a learning curve for me, but after getting it down, not only I am getting the vapor production I see in the videos posted here from Payton Penn and Wavy, but I'm getting even way more draws than they are.

Hope that helps somebody out there! You all have helped me over the years!
 

Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
The trays are my favorite feature, among many. The packing is extremely forgiving. Loose to somewhat tight is ok.

For maximum cloud vapor, fill the bowls and tamp lightly. Add a little more and tamp more, lightly. The curve of your finger tip dipping slightly into the bowl, a millimeter or so, is enough for tamping.

Don't pack really tight, say like a pax (1, 2, or 3) prefers. You'll combust at high temp if you tamp too tightly. You'll also get hot spots and charring, even if you don't combust.

The FAQ's video shows Mark tamping with his finger, adding more with his finger and tamping again with his finger. He's not packing tight. He's tamping, so the herb is evenly filled in the bowl, but the pack is generally loose just not fluffy. He's not packing tight--look at the herb in the bowl when he's done. In other words, it's tamped enough so as weed will not fall out if the tray is turned upside down, but it's not packed tight.

My favorite way is to pack loosely up to the top. Tamp. Add some kief. Tamp. Huge clouds everytime. Great flavor. No stirring.
 
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Daprezz

Well-Known Member
Agreed, If I do as you say I have indeed lots of vapor mainly because of the kief and the first draws of the weed, but without stirring it ends fast while there is pretty much green or yellow stuff in the middle/bottom sides of my bowl. Also For me very loose packing is not so forgiving I'd only get 2 or 3 hits and green stuff left with a half full bowl after tamping a bit for example... From what I experience and read here either there are differences between devices either very different perceptions of what is a satisfying extraction when people say they don't stirr or pack well. For me yellow/green and light brown abv we can see on some vids is not at all fully extracted. When I pack too tight on the contrary mine doesnt combust, I just get the airflow buzz too fast.
 
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Django53

Member
The trays are my favorite feature, among many. The packing is extremely forgiving. Loose to somewhat tight is ok.

For maximum cloud vapor, fill the bowls and tamp lightly. Add a little more and tamp more, lightly. The curve of your finger tip dipping slightly into the bowl, a millimeter or so, is enough for tamping.

Don't pack really tight, say like a pax (1, 2, or 3) prefers. You'll combust at high temp if you tamp too tightly. You'll also get hot spots and charring, even if you don't combust.

The FAQ's video shows Mark tamping with his finger, adding more with his finger and tamping again with his finger. He's not packing tight. He's tamping, so the herb is evenly filled in the bowl, but the pack is generally loose just not fluffy. He's not packing tight--look at the herb in the bowl when he's done. In other words, it's tamped enough so as weed will not fall out if the tray is turned upside down, but it's not packed tight.

My favorite way is to pack loosely up to the top. Tamp. Add some kief. Tamp. Huge clouds everytime. Great flavor. No stirring.

Interesting we've had such different experiences! But I also realize people might have different takes on the word "tight" here. I never used a PAX. But coming from an Underdog and FW4, which work best with a very loose (suck up) pack, I had to learn to pack the FW5 very "tight."

But these were the direct messages from Marc through email:

"Another possibility is your herb and how you are grinding it and packing it. You want to grind it pretty fine and then fill the chamber to the top, then pack it a bit, the top it off again. You want to try and create as much air restriction with the herb as you can (it is possible to overdo it, but I doubt that is your issue)."

"I would try experimenting with packing the bowl as tight as you can. It is possible to get it packed too tight, which will cause too much air restriction, but it would be a good experiment for you to get a feel for how tight you can make it, the loosen it just a bit."


Agreed, If I do as you say I have indeed lots of vapor mainly because of the kief and the first draws of the weed, but without stirring it ends fast while there is pretty much green or yellow stuff in the middle/bottom sides of my bowl. Also For me very loose packing is not so forgiving I'd only get 2 or 3 hits and green stuff left with a half full bowl after tamping a bit for example... From what I experience and read here either there are differences between devices either very different perceptions of what is a satisfying extraction when people say they don't stirr or pack well. For me yellow/green and light brown abv we can see on some vids is not at all fully extracted. When I pack too tight on the contrary mine doesnt combust, I just get the airflow buzz too fast.

Could be very right about difference in device and perception! I get full extraction, dark brown ABV, with 0 combustion so far, on both default 4 setting and even bumped to 4 3/4. I bet I could possibly combust on 5 with a hot heater and slow enough draw but haven't wanted to try :-)

15+ draws on a lot of recent bowls. Others have been under 10 depending on strains. Strain matters a lot. Also I'm taking a good half the bowl on lowest settings (1 1/4- 1 1/2) which is giving me large visible clouds and remarkable taste (tastier than FW4 - which I thought was very good). Taste drops off on second half of bowl especially as I'm bumping up to 3 and finally 4 to fully extract, but stirring every 2-3 draws also helps with taste, more clouds, and more even ABV.

I'm also going to post what Marc said about drawspeed and stirring with your mouth (which to be honest I haven't figured out!):

Definitely slow draw should be better. However if you draw too slow it won't detect your draw and will power off. If this happens a quick hard pull every few seconds will keep it hot. I'm not sure how your experiments with draw speed went, but I am wondering if the unit just wasn't warmed up yet. For the first draw or two, you want to draw faster to get it warmed up quickly, but then slow down to get a more even and thorough bowl. Once it is really hot, you can make the last draw really slow and you will barely need to stir if at all. I personally still get tiny specs of green at the edges, but they are so tiny that I usually don't bother stirring, or else just do a few very fast in and out puffs using my cheeks to "stir" up the bowl with air.

And remember my unit wasn't working properly at first and I had to fix my air seal which along with packing tight solved all my problems. Also, Marc was extremely helpful and patient enough to offer so many suggestions over a course of emails. Hope these help someone else. Remember to make sure that air seal is solid.
 
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Daprezz

Well-Known Member
on both default 4 setting and even bumped to 4 3/4. I bet I could possibly combust on 5 with a hot heater and slow enough draw but haven't wanted to try :-)

15+ draws on a lot of recent bowls. Others have been under 10 depending on strains. Strain matters a lot. Also I'm taking a good half the bowl on lowest settings (1 1/4- 1 1/2) which is giving me large visible clouds and remarkable taste (tastier than FW4 - which I thought was very good). Taste drops off on second half of bowl especially as I'm bumping up to 3 and finally 4 to fully extract
What do you mean by 5 ? We agree that there are only 3 levels, right ? 1,2,3 or 2,3,4 depending how you call them but 2 clicks, 3 clicks and 4 clicks, right ? (Or is it a secret hidden boost mode for concentrates like the hidden track of a CD :lol: )
 
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Daprezz,

Django53

Member
What do you mean by 5 ? We agree that there are only 3 levels, right ? 1,2,3 or 2,3,4 depending how you call them but 2 clicks, 3 clicks and 4 clicks, right ? (Or is it a secret hidden boost mode for concentrates like the hidden track of a CD :lol: )

No, I really do mean heat level 5. And yes there really are hidden boost modes, but I didn't think they were so secret! Look in the manual here from the website.

There are 3 temperature modes (low, medium and high). Originally they are set to heat levels of 2, 3 and 4. But you can adjust these temperature modes up/down in increments of 1/4. So you really have 16 different heat levels with the highest being 5 and the lowest being 1 1/4 (my favorite btw).

Follow the manual for "Adjusting Heat Level Settings" to change.
 
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Daprezz

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Ok I was aware of that. I have my max temp set on 5 (thought it was 4 3/4 you were right, my wrong). It's not so secret indeed :lol:. I definitly can't combust on 5 no mater how I pack, draw, the strain, everyhting. (This is normal as it's designed not to combust) I would say there is at least a 10°C-15°C margin beetween the hottest I can get and the beggining of combustion. And my device was sent back for calibration.The other day during a cold walk in the park it was struggling a little bit, but worked ok keeping it in a little fabric pouch I have. It's more than enough in room temperature conditions but a tad deceiving for the max max "boost" mode setup of such a device... But strictly no combustion is definitively a pro within the vaporist purist philosophy, so...

Edit : thanks @Django53 3 for sharing these Marc tips, it helped me improve my approach. He already gave me some of them but that was a good sum up. This blow-stirr thing works pretty well !
 
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Django53

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Ok I was aware of that. I have my max temp set on 5 (thought it was 4 3/4 you were right, my wrong). It's not so secret indeed :lol:. I definitly can't combust on 5 no mater how I pack, draw, the strain, everyhting. (This is normal as it's designed not to combust) I would say there is at least a 10°C-15°C margin beetween the hottest I can get and the beggining of combustion. And my device was sent back for calibration.The other day during a cold walk in the park it was struggling a little bit, but worked ok keeping it in a little fabric pouch I have. It's more than enough in room temperature conditions but a tad deceiving for the max max "boost" mode setup of such a device... But strictly no combustion is definitively a pro within the vaporist purist philosophy, so...

Edit : thanks @Django53 3 for sharing these Marc tips, it helped me improve my approach. He already gave me some of them but that was a good sum up. This blow-stirr thing works pretty well !

No problemo! Happy it helped. Still I'm surprised you think there's that much temperature difference from your max to combustion. Is that even when you get the heater really hot and are at the end of a bowl with a real slow draw? What about attached to a bubbler?

I'm definitely on the verge of combustion here at those temps but very happy I haven't hit it yet. But my ABV can get very dark. Definitely fully extracted since I can run it through my Underdog afterwards and nothing comes out of it. Also since moving solely to convection vapes I'm always grossed out by combustion at this point. My FW4 can combust on default settings on level 4 and even sometimes on level 3. This was always a bit of a pain and I'm liking that I don't have to worry about combustion so far with the FW5.

Also unrelated but since I haven't seen anyone mention this I just want to report that I was able to hook the FW5 up to a water pipe (Orbiter bubbler) with an all glass vapor path. I wanted to make something without plastic in the vapor path. I took a MFLB Water Pipe Whip and removed the wood and silicone tubing from the glass joint piece. Then I put the glass joint into the bubbler upside down so the 14mm side was actually facing upwards and therefore providing an even smaller hole. I just twisted it a little to lock it in place. Then I took a little piece of the silicone tubing and placed it over the FW5 glass stem to add a touch more girth, then this fits perfectly inside the MFLB 14mm glass joint with an air tight seal. The vapor just comes out the FW5 stem directly down into the bubbler so it's not passing through the silicone. (I should note that this only worked with the MFLB 14mm glass joint and that my Underdog 14mm glass joint wasn't tight enough to work.) So now my FW5 works with my bubbler a lot like the FW4 does. It can even stay in place but I wouldn't really trust it. If anyone has an old MFLB whip just laying around this was an easy and highly effective WPA solution for the FW5 with an all glass path.
 
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Daprezz

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Still I'm surprised you think there's that much temperature difference from your max to combustion. Is that even when you get the heater really hot and are at the end of a bowl with a real slow draw?
Yeah you're right, after writing about these temps and before doing the edit were I thank you something in my understanding of it was triggered by this "However if you draw too slow it won't detect your draw and will power off. If this happens a quick hard pull every few seconds will keep it hot" and with real slow almost still draw I get some bits of it definitely more 5°C close to combustion than 15. I was a bit confused by the beginning when it was calibrated a bit off and that messed up the technique I had yet understood in the first place.
 
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Daprezz,

Brewervapesalot

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An easy way to hook up to a water pipe is to drill or poke a small hole in a #1 or #2, shortened, silicone stopper. Then put the glass stem/mouth piece through it...
 
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Django53

Member
An easy way to hook up to a water pipe is to drill or poke a small hole in a #1 or #2, shortened, silicone stopper. Then put the glass stem/mouth piece through it...

There are even some with the hole already made.

Awesome, but where have you guys found silicone stoppers that are short enough to fit the whole FW5 glass stem through? Only ones I had seen were 3/4 to 1 inch or more long and I didn't want vapor touching the silicone. I have my glass stem set to only come out less than half an inch from the wood.

The MFLB whip was an easy MacGyver trick with something already laying around the house. I had six of the whips that no longer get any love.
 
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