Firewood Vaporizer

Brewervapesalot

Well-Known Member
Use a knife or razor and cut the silicone stopper to length. Easy.... the stoppers with premade holes have holes that are too wide. Buy a solid #1 or #2 stopper on amazon or ebay then drill a hole or poke a hole. Works perfect, less than a few bucks.
 

Brewervapesalot

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20190221-210009.jpg


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Brewervapesalot,
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Django53

Member
Use a knife or razor and cut the silicone stopper to length. Easy.... the stoppers with premade holes have holes that are too wide. Buy a solid #1 or #2 stopper on amazon or ebay then drill a hole or poke a hole. Works perfect, less than a few bucks.

Sounds good, I'll have to try this out. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

breiter_fighter

Well-Known Member
Hello together!

Does anybody know if there is any shop in europe which sells this beautiful vape? Or if international shipping is possible?

Thanks for your help

BV
 
breiter_fighter,
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Trulukkyphrank

Well-Known Member
First time posting here. First I need to say I love this vaporizer so much! I think it's one of the most portable vaporizers right now!

Anyways, sometimes I have weird vibrations while drawing and the heater shuts off, it's not a big deal, because I just push the button again. I just wonder if other have also this problem?

The tung oil finish was not my taste, it got removed very fast after some use. So I finished mine with olive oil. It is durable, has a nice very smell and feeling!
 

Trulukkyphrank

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your input.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the vibration made when drawing too fast is another than when the heater shuts off. When drawing too fast it vibrates multiple times, like pulsing.
In my case I have only the long vibration, like when you release the button, but while pushing the button. I have now tested some different push styles, and I think it's the contact that doesn't work perfect. This needs a longer observation time.

My screens are also very clean, because I wash them with hot water after 2 bowls.
 
Trulukkyphrank,

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Also check if your seal is ok with the card test presented on the site. The tubular tube can be clogged too but I guess it's not your case if you clean the screens so often. It's also better to have new batteries only dedicated to this vape. Batteries used in e-cig mods had some weak or strange behaviour in my fw5. Never had problems with the button if you feel you have to press it in a particular way there may be something wrong.
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I didn't try it but the chambers seem too shallow to me for the fury 2 capsules. They should be as tall as wide to hold them and the little finns wouldn't let the capsules sit on the screen. But I really believe that with the tray design and functionnality there is no need for capsules with this vape!
 
Thanks guys! If I pull the trigger on the FW5 I'll see if I can get a weed puck press for the dosing tray (sorta like what's sometimes done on the PAX)
 
CABtheFISHKING,

billyfitz

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

After becoming addicted to on-demand convection with a couple of years with a GrassHopper, when it crapped out I moved to a FW5. I use them directly (no glass), and perhaps my expectations were high but I am sorry to say I'm disappointed. The vapor is nice and cool, the unit is much more aesthetically pleasant, but the vaporization is very uneven and the heat control is very dependent on draw speed and session duration.

Marc and others advise to pack fairly densely, but then I get a central core of brown/vaped with sticky green gummed together at the edges and bottom of the chamber. It seems to me the ceramic is a big heat-sink that absorbs all the heat at the perimeter, then the center gets toasted and opens up to airflow and the edges miss out further. Loose packing doesn't seem any worse to me, and at least the edge-greenery is easier to stir back in away from the heat-sucking perimeter.

I'm a micro-doser which may be relevant. I think if you draw long and slow repeatedly the ceramic gets hot and you get fuller extraction, but if you hope to hit it briefly every now and then, it just doesn't work very well. I draw once or twice and then come back to the load later.

With a temperature-controlled convection device you should be able to have a lose or tight pack just fine. Whether it gets full or reduced airflow it's still surrounded by air at the controlled temperature.

The FW5's heat control is very disappointing. A slow draw produces radically different temps & ABV color than a faster draw, even well below the draw that would generate the warning buzz. The Grasshopper's temperatures weren't completely unaffected by draw speed, but they were close - much closer.

With the Grasshopper I got a very predictable amount out of each hit and the ABV was uniform. With the FW5 it's hard to predict because variations in draw speed produces very different extractions. Sometimes I get very little, sometimes I overshoot.

I had high hopes because I expected the same convection vaporization performance as the GH, but with a better battery situation, cooler vapor, and the flexibility of 5 chambers. It delivered on those things, but its temperature control, dose precision, and vaporization are just not up to what I've been used to.
 
billyfitz,

rvarick

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

After becoming addicted to on-demand convection with a couple of years with a GrassHopper, when it crapped out I moved to a FW5. I use them directly (no glass), and perhaps my expectations were high but I am sorry to say I'm disappointed. The vapor is nice and cool, the unit is much more aesthetically pleasant, but the vaporization is very uneven and the heat control is very dependent on draw speed and session duration.

Marc and others advise to pack fairly densely, but then I get a central core of brown/vaped with sticky green gummed together at the edges and bottom of the chamber. It seems to me the ceramic is a big heat-sink that absorbs all the heat at the perimeter, then the center gets toasted and opens up to airflow and the edges miss out further. Loose packing doesn't seem any worse to me, and at least the edge-greenery is easier to stir back in away from the heat-sucking perimeter.

I'm a micro-doser which may be relevant. I think if you draw long and slow repeatedly the ceramic gets hot and you get fuller extraction, but if you hope to hit it briefly every now and then, it just doesn't work very well. I draw once or twice and then come back to the load later.

With a temperature-controlled convection device you should be able to have a lose or tight pack just fine. Whether it gets full or reduced airflow it's still surrounded by air at the controlled temperature.

The FW5's heat control is very disappointing. A slow draw produces radically different temps & ABV color than a faster draw, even well below the draw that would generate the warning buzz. The Grasshopper's temperatures weren't completely unaffected by draw speed, but they were close - much closer.

With the Grasshopper I got a very predictable amount out of each hit and the ABV was uniform. With the FW5 it's hard to predict because variations in draw speed produces very different extractions. Sometimes I get very little, sometimes I overshoot.

I had high hopes because I expected the same convection vaporization performance as the GH, but with a better battery situation, cooler vapor, and the flexibility of 5 chambers. It delivered on those things, but its temperature control, dose precision, and vaporization are just not up to what I've been used to.
Your experience sounds a lot like what I was seeing with my FW5 when I first got it. It was difficult to impossible for me to get full extraction and even/dark abv when using the device, even when using high temp. Only very, very slow, long and concentrated drawing would produce some extraction and vapor, and drawing anywhere near the speed required to activate the draw sensor buzzes resulted in little or no vapor. My seal was fine so that wasn’t the problem. After speaking with Marc, I had to send it back in for recalibration. I got one back a few weeks later which is working much better. Not sure if yours has the same issue mine did, but it may be worth sending an email to firewood.
 
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Sativapo

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Yes that also reminds me of my experience. I also had it recalibrated and it took me some time to learn how to use it optimally. But now I don't regret it I consider it my best vape. I don't know if recalibration is your issue because you say you tend to overshoot sometimes. Mine was always on the (too) cool side. And got fixed with recalibration but that confused me for a moment technique wise.
The drawing technique is definitely important. But when you get it's reliable. Each level is more like a temp range you navigate within with your draw speed. I understood why this Wavy guy was talking about vapor surfing. And there is this stirring technique with fast blowing and inspiring that helps. Now I do this and only stirr once per bowl with a tool too get that stuck fresh stuff you talk about and end with even dark ABV.
Oh and yes packing and air restriction is important too. Even when its half vaped and reduced you got to have a good layer of material on your screen to contnue extraction. I can't finish as dark a lightely packed bowl. I don't know why you think tc convection efficiency isn't related too packing its all about the restriction and drawspeed ratio for a given temp. . It is for my 510 tc convection vapes. I didn't use the GH though. I think it uses also some conduction?
 
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billyfitz

Well-Known Member
I am being picky here, since for me and my use the Grasshopper sets a very high bar in actual vaporizing. It also has real drawbacks - apparently durability (though I got 2 years), hot vapor, rapidly heating mouthpiece, not very social.

(Oh, and when I talked of overshooting, I meant getting a bigger hit than I had intended, so being more baked than I wanted. Even though I use it most evenings, I operate on minimal tolerance and don't notice a difference after a few weeks abstinence. If I overuse and start to gain a tolerance, I lose the quality of the effects.)

I had to send it back in for recalibration

I'm afraid I did, and Marc says it was all functioning to spec, and I think it is. He tightened the friction zones too, though I was always getting good vacuum. I realize that I had been drawing faster than it can manage (though well within its buzz warning), but I expected it to manage more power given what the GH does with it's small battery (admittedly specially formulated for current, but my 18650s are to some extent - 25Rs).

But now I don't regret it I consider it my best vape. [...]
Each level is more like a temp range you navigate within with your draw speed.[...]
I don't know why you think tc convection efficiency isn't related too packing its all about the restriction and drawspeed ratio for a given temp. [...] I think [the GH] uses also some conduction?

It is a good vape in many ways, just lower than my probably too-high expectations for actual vapor production. Your 'navigate within your draw speed' gives me more confidence mine's working as designed, and it just has very incomplete temperature control. It's quite possible to heat air faster than it does, and if it can't manage it would be much better if it could give you feedback earlier, since it doesn't buzz until I'm fairly sucking a breeze through it. I suspect it must be just controlled to a fixed heating element temperature, rather than to an air temperature or something closer to that.

It would be possible to measure the air temp as it enters the chamber and control the heating element to that, but I think that would require a bigger unit, to avoid radiation heating the probe. More likely they all measure the temperature of the heating element (by resistance) and control that, but if you also measure current you could use that to compensate for faster or slower drawing to get some closer approximation to an air temperature control. My guess is perhaps that's what GH do, and/or do better. But I am guessing.

I've had a few conduction oven vapes but my only convection experience is the GrassHopper, which is sold as, and I believe is, pure convection. The heating element is so close that there must be some radiation and a little conduction but there is a heater in the air path in line with the bare thin walled tube about 20mm long x 8-10mm diameter that the weed is in. The air heats the walls of the tube and not vice-versa.

My ABV was even no matter how loose I packed, and the heat was, while not decoupled from air speed, at least closer, even as I drew at higher speeds. It was more constricted, so there was a limit on speed there, but I'm comparing the speed my lungs filled.

I'll be experimenting more with packing, or not. When I do a light fluffy barely-full pack I don't really see worse unevenness. It is a decent vape, but ironically I think it excels where the Grasshopper is weak and vice versa. I'd hoped for the best of each rolled into one, which ought to be very possible.
 

rvarick

Well-Known Member
Yes that also reminds me of my experience. I also had it recalibrated and it took me some time to learn how to use it optimally. But now I don't regret it I consider it my best vape. I don't know if recalibration is your issue because you say you tend to overshoot sometimes. Mine was always on the (too) cool side. And got fixed with recalibration but that confused me for a moment technique wise.
The drawing technique is definitely important. But when you get it's reliable. Each level is more like a temp range you navigate within with your draw speed. I understood why this Wavy guy was talking about vapor surfing. And there is this stirring technique with fast blowing and inspiring that helps. Now I do this and only stirr once per bowl with a tool too get that stuck fresh stuff you talk about and end with even dark ABV.
Oh and yes packing and air restriction is important too. Even when its half vaped and reduced you got to have a good layer of material on your screen to contnue extraction. I can't finish as dark a lightely packed bowl. I don't know why you think tc convection efficiency isn't related too packing its all about the restriction and drawspeed ratio for a given temp. . It is for my 510 tc convection vapes. I didn't use the GH though. I think it uses also some conduction?
This is helpful info. I wanted to ask more about the fast blowing stirring technique you mentioned please. How does this work? Thanks!
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
It's not perfect that's why I stirr once with a tool near the end but you have to blow and aspirre strong a few times with sharp changes of airflow direction. Its not the more pleasant thing to do but it works for me. At the beginning you can do some tests and open the tray to check the result and adapt.
 
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Sativapo,

Sativapo

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Today I tried hash for the first time in the firewood. A tiny ball squized into a disc inside a hemp fiber disc. Direct at max temp tuned to the max. It gave like 30 cloudy hits...
 

Sativapo

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Yes it's another game than plant. The thin flat disc is ideal for surface exposure. And the hemp fiber ads restriction. I don't stirr just turn the disc upside down once. There was only dark dust in the fiber in the end.
 
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204Markie

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Does anyone know if FC members get a discount in the FW5? After a warranty battle with the firefly 2 I now have an expensive paper weight.
 
204Markie,
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