Close
It’s just under 5x5 (125mm x 125mm)
Just finishing the last of the software rewrite tonight ... about an hour left of work on the client for creating/editing scripts.
Then I’ll likely do a YouTube and maybe a Zoom meeting to demo the unit.
710yota
Have you heard about the boom on Mizar 5?
Man, I'm just thinking of what a dynamic duo this would be paired up with the vape @invertedisdead is cooking up!
So I'm complete the software rewrite and hardware build. Everything is looking and working great! So very pleased with this version!
All the parts to build 2 more complete units, as well as my CNC router to cut out the face plates (and other such fun things!) will be in today (just short a case to have enough for 3)
I may have 2 units ready to go out before Christmas, or it may be early Jan. I want two buyers who are interested in providing feedback and acting as ongoing beta testers for the unit and software changes. (don't worry ... I won't push out anything to you unstable )
Cost of materials of each of these units is >$200 (estimate ... haven't figured out exact costs factoring in shipping, exchange rates, etc.) Expected sale price will be $450. Being that these are early units, I will service them essentially indefinitely, you'll just need to send them back to me for servicing if it can't be done remotely. Parts will be warrantied for 90 days, and outside of that, you'll need to pay the cost of the part to have it replaced. (For example, cost of the Raspberry Pi Zero W in there is ~$15 and cost of Omron PID, really the only expensive piece, is $70-$100) All other parts are <$10 apart from the $30 optical encoder and $20 OLED.
This is a work of love ... for myself, and now releasing some units so others can enjoy it to. I hope everyone else likes it as much as I do! From the custom profiles, the nice built-in and web/mobile interface, remote access without relying on a 3rd party, and really, the spotlight feature that truly sets this unit apart, THE CUSTOM SCRIPTS! If you want to customize your dab experience with personalized up/down-temps, there is nothing else that can do it like the J-Cat FC E-Nail
All the parts to build 2 more complete units, as well as my CNC router to cut out the face plates (and other such fun things!) will be in today
(just short a case to have enough for 3)I may have 2 units ready to go out before Christmas, or it may be early Jan. I want two buyers who are interested in providing feedback and acting as ongoing beta testers for the unit and software changes. (don't worry ... I won't push out anything to you unstable
)Cost of materials of each of these units is >$200 (estimate ... haven't figured out exact costs factoring in shipping, exchange rates, etc.) Expected sale price will be $450. Being that these are early units, I will service them essentially indefinitely, you'll just need to send them back to me for servicing if it can't be done remotely. Parts will be warrantied for 90 days, and outside of that, you'll need to pay the cost of the part to have it replaced. (For example, cost of the Raspberry Pi Zero W in there is ~$15 and cost of Omron PID, really the only expensive piece, is $70-$100) All other parts are <$10 apart from the $30 optical encoder and $20 OLED.
This is a work of love ... for myself, and now releasing some units so others can enjoy it to. I hope everyone else likes it as much as I do! From the custom profiles, the nice built-in and web/mobile interface, remote access without relying on a 3rd party, and really, the spotlight feature that truly sets this unit apart, THE CUSTOM SCRIPTS! If you want to customize your dab experience with personalized up/down-temps, there is nothing else that can do it like the J-Cat FC E-Nail
nice looking work. what cnc router did you go with?
Thanks! I appreciate that ... this single enclosure, being all by hand (with a dremel and some files), took hours!
I went with the SainSmart 3018-PROver ... I think it should do what I need it to (small, but that's good as there's only so much room in my shop!)
I think with the right bit, this should go well ... just got my shop cleaned up, and got the unit assembled and did the basic tests with the controller to make sure everything was working and all is good
Did a little bit of reading up on GCode, and a little searching for decent software, and think I've come to the conclusion (since I'm a math guy anyways and always like numbers/writing vs visual ...) I'll likely write the GCode by hand without using any actual tools, and will use appropriate calculators to calculate the best feed rates etc. I will likely use this to visualize what I create though before running it ... and may use an emulator/simulator of some sort to perform test runs before actual runs:
Universal G-Code Sender: UGS (winder.github.io)
GCode seems pretty intuitive and I think to write out the scripts for my face/rear plates shouldn't be too bad; I of course didn't think to order extra bits though with the router, and it only came with engraving type bits, so ordered some milling bits that will be more ideal for cutting out aluminum (should be here by end of week).
Should be able to get started and write most of my GCode scripts and play around with it though with some scrap material (first wood, then some sheet aluminum I have), while waiting for the better bits.
Seems well built and sturdy, should be fun to play with and should be perfect for a what I need right now (I can see this leading to wanting to spend much more money on a larger unit though!
)I also may invest in the enclosure to contain the sound and mess, as well as we'll see if a mister might be required to extend tool life and keep the heat down. I think for the volume I will be doing, the mess of the misting won't be worth it ... with the right feed rates and bits, and for the short enough cut times I am doing, I should be able to mitigate heat without getting things wet ... we'll see!)
okay, i have seen online videos of the SainSmart. i am stuck with needing minimum 2.06" clearance so i got a larger unit 3040.
i didn't want to get into the GCode at first so i got GWizard from CNCcookbook.com, so i could generate and see actual GCode and it has a simulator to show the tool path. plus a speeds and feeds app. i ended up copying the GCode into an Excel spreadsheet and wrote some macros to create more optimal tool paths. and allow offsetting the positions, changing depth of cut. now i'm writing GCode subroutines so i can set up 5 pieces at a time for milling to share the tool change downtime. first upgrade will be an automatic tool changer.
all in all, a great tool to have in the shop.
i didn't want to get into the GCode at first so i got GWizard from CNCcookbook.com, so i could generate and see actual GCode and it has a simulator to show the tool path. plus a speeds and feeds app. i ended up copying the GCode into an Excel spreadsheet and wrote some macros to create more optimal tool paths. and allow offsetting the positions, changing depth of cut. now i'm writing GCode subroutines so i can set up 5 pieces at a time for milling to share the tool change downtime. first upgrade will be an automatic tool changer.
all in all, a great tool to have in the shop.
SixStringToker
Naked member
I've been following this thread with interest; can't wait to see it in FC'ers hands!
Any chance of adding a second xlr connector and the ability to toggle between the two, perhaps with little leds next to the connectors for indicating which one is active/hot? I'd love to keep my weedeater and dcup connected at the same time and change from one to the other with a simple switch or button.
Any chance of adding a second xlr connector and the ability to toggle between the two, perhaps with little leds next to the connectors for indicating which one is active/hot? I'd love to keep my weedeater and dcup connected at the same time and change from one to the other with a simple switch or button.
This is important to me too. Also thinking about right angled connectors ...
So just a quick update ... I've been spending my nights working on getting the settings (feed/rotation speeds, right bits, etc.) right for my CNC router, and finally got everything nailed down so that I'll be able to confidently, and repeatably, cutout the face/rear plates
I'll be cutting maybe 1 more set of blanks over the weekend to make sure everything is good, which I think I may use to embed in a custom oak or cherry enclosure of the same size (for my 2nd unit ... plain aluminum face/rear plates and a really nice wood enclosure ... we'll see if I have time to plain down some wood this weekend and mill it/transform it into the parts for a box
I'm planning on cutting the face/rear plates for the 2 units for sale next week, and should be done assembly of the 2 units in the coming couple weeks; likely ready for shipping end of Dec. or early Jan.
1 unit is spoken for, and 1 is still available. I've recently also added the ability to upload custom sounds that you can use for startup and during your script feedback steps (so I have Truckin' play when my unit turns on, and a clip of Back in Black for the start of one of my up-temp scripts )
I'll hopefully have time to get a YouTube video up in the coming day or two
I'll be cutting maybe 1 more set of blanks over the weekend to make sure everything is good, which I think I may use to embed in a custom oak or cherry enclosure of the same size (for my 2nd unit ... plain aluminum face/rear plates and a really nice wood enclosure ... we'll see if I have time to plain down some wood this weekend and mill it/transform it into the parts for a box
I'm planning on cutting the face/rear plates for the 2 units for sale next week, and should be done assembly of the 2 units in the coming couple weeks; likely ready for shipping end of Dec. or early Jan.
1 unit is spoken for, and 1 is still available. I've recently also added the ability to upload custom sounds that you can use for startup and during your script feedback steps (so I have Truckin' play when my unit turns on, and a clip of Back in Black for the start of one of my up-temp scripts
)I'll hopefully have time to get a YouTube video up in the coming day or two
I'll be cutting maybe 1 more set of blanks over the weekend to make sure everything is good, which I think I may use to embed in a custom oak or cherry enclosure of the same size (for my 2nd unit ... plain aluminum face/rear plates and a really nice wood enclosure ... we'll see if I have time to plain down some wood this weekend and mill it/transform it into the parts for a box
I think a wood enclosure is a fantastic idea and an automatic purchase for the vape community. I've been waiting for someone to do a wooden PID controller since Hex-Nail went under.
I wasn't planning on doing a wood enclosure for more than myself ...
... the aluminum is the standard (clean, and will be 3/4" less wide/high due to the 1/2" thick wood vs. 2mm aluminum.)I just personally thought one would look slick! Not sure about mass producing them, as I'm just a hobby wood worker, so with some nice box joinery on it I expect it will take me a good 1-2 hours of assembly! (I'm not fast
) ... that being said ... if I was making a bunch of them ... maybe only add 1/2-1 hour per box (you can't get around the finishing work of gluing and clamping and sanding your joints clean etc.)Edit: I do have a bunch of Ontario oak and maple that I cut down myself and had milled ... it is some nice wood
.. and I do enjoy making small boxes and little stuff.
Let's say I will investigate what it will take to do wood enclosures with plain aluminum front/back panels. (I could look at anodizing at some point, but that's a whole other thing!So if I understand correctly wood enclosures are what everyone is getting from now on
Seriously doe I love seeing updates on this and any other small time forum bred innovation!
... (why I even just mentioned that I don't know ... just asking for trouble!)Edit: I'll likely build myself a wood enclosure for my 2nd unit over the weekend
(thinking box joints to join the 4 panels, and the side panels will separate similar to the aluminum enclosures with a locking groove between them. There will be four screws driven in through the bottom to hold the top/bottom together, and the front/back panels will be held in place by a routed groove in the front/back.Need to find some screw in feet/bumpers though too! (the adhesive ones don't work worth a damn on wood!) ... I'd prefer ones with bolts across the board anyways, but having a hard time finding them
Here's the face/back plates I just cut out for my first wood unit
Now have all the CNC code (G-Code) tested for cutting these out, so the rest will be faster. (same face/back plates for aluminum enclosures as well).
Will move on to building the actual would box later tonight or likely tomorrow.
Now have all the CNC code (G-Code) tested for cutting these out, so the rest will be faster. (same face/back plates for aluminum enclosures as well).
Will move on to building the actual would box later tonight or likely tomorrow.
Hey @Hippie Dickie ,
Just an update on what I'm using for software ....
- I'm using Inkscape to do my drawings (vector graphics/SVG)
- I'm using GWizard Calculator (free version) for feeds/speeds calculations
- I'm using the Gcodetools extension in Inkscape to convert my SVG to GCode
- Then using Notepad++ to edit the generated Gcode to make minor adjustments
I'm doing the cutouts in a first pass, leaving ~1 mm all around. (I can only do a depth of ~0.1mm per pass, so am doing 18 passes)
2nd/finish cut, I take off the last ~1mm, also in 18 passes, and it leaves a beautiful cut/finish. (to better than 0.05mm tolerances)
I'm using regular expressions to search/replace in my GCode so I can do things like go down in the middle on the finish cuts, and then move into the side (as opposed to plunging down into the aluminum)
So combination of free tools and getting the job done. The key was finding the right bits.
Was trying to get the probe working right for setup though ... and accidentally set the 1st cut Z too deep by ~0.2 mm, and it started out "ok", and just when I was thinking I was going to have to just shut it down, it went really wrong! ... the vibration must have hit some special harmonic as the spindle motor actually began to drop and my collet almost rammed into the workpiece ... good thing I have a sizable backing block, as the bit went a good 1/2" down into the backing block! Luckily I killed it before the collet hit! Got the X/Y/Z probe setup all perfect now though ... so that won't happen again!!!!
Here's a picture of some oak I milled for my box ... (one on the right is rough and one on the left I just milled down to 1/2")
Edit: Hopefully tomorrow I have time to build the actual box ... changed my mind about the 1/2" and milled off another 1/8" ... so the box will be 3/8" thick.
I'm considering doing the 1st 2 units out of wood, and we'll see about the rest. Maybe for an added cost although I feel that it's already expensive enough; but I can't very well add the hardwood lumber and all the extra labour at no cost long term ... and even if I could find a wood shop to make them .. for any reasonable quality with nice joinery I'll be paying at least $50 a box ...
just an added tidbit of information ... this lumber that I have is cut by my brother and law and I, and then we had a guy with a portable mill convert it into rough lumber ... so it's Ontario trees harvested by me (I also have some maple ... although I don't have it here ... stored at a friends place as I'm out of space )
Just an update on what I'm using for software ....
- I'm using Inkscape to do my drawings (vector graphics/SVG)
- I'm using GWizard Calculator (free version) for feeds/speeds calculations
- I'm using the Gcodetools extension in Inkscape to convert my SVG to GCode
- Then using Notepad++ to edit the generated Gcode to make minor adjustments
I'm doing the cutouts in a first pass, leaving ~1 mm all around. (I can only do a depth of ~0.1mm per pass, so am doing 18 passes)
2nd/finish cut, I take off the last ~1mm, also in 18 passes, and it leaves a beautiful cut/finish. (to better than 0.05mm tolerances)
I'm using regular expressions to search/replace in my GCode so I can do things like go down in the middle on the finish cuts, and then move into the side (as opposed to plunging down into the aluminum)
So combination of free tools and getting the job done. The key was finding the right bits.
Was trying to get the probe working right for setup though ... and accidentally set the 1st cut Z too deep by ~0.2 mm, and it started out "ok", and just when I was thinking I was going to have to just shut it down, it went really wrong!
... the vibration must have hit some special harmonic as the spindle motor actually began to drop and my collet almost rammed into the workpiece ... good thing I have a sizable backing block, as the bit went a good 1/2" down into the backing block! Luckily I killed it before the collet hit! Got the X/Y/Z probe setup all perfect now though ... so that won't happen again!!!!Here's a picture of some oak I milled for my box ... (one on the right is rough and one on the left I just milled down to 1/2")
Edit: Hopefully tomorrow I have time to build the actual box
... changed my mind about the 1/2" and milled off another 1/8" ... so the box will be 3/8" thick.I'm considering doing the 1st 2 units out of wood, and we'll see about the rest. Maybe for an added cost although I feel that it's already expensive enough; but I can't very well add the hardwood lumber and all the extra labour at no cost long term ... and even if I could find a wood shop to make them .. for any reasonable quality with nice joinery I'll be paying at least $50 a box ...
just an added tidbit of information ... this lumber that I have is cut by my brother and law and I, and then we had a guy with a portable mill convert it into rough lumber ... so it's Ontario trees harvested by me
(I also have some maple ... although I don't have it here ... stored at a friends place as I'm out of space )
Last edited:
