How long does it take to ship?
I’ve noticed the cherry wood seem to crack more often. I have a cherry that cracked within a few weeks after getting it. I decided to buy a walnut unit too. I didn’t want to be without my Enano while I sent the cherry unit in. I love a cherry Enano even though they occasionally crack.Could any longtime Nano veterans answer a couple questions for me?
1. Does choosing one type of wood (maple, cherry, or walnut) over another impact the overall durability of this vape?
2. Under a moderate amount of use, and not running it 24/7, what kind of average lifespan can be expected?
Thanks
@CarolKing I think @ACE OF VAPE has really exception CS.I’ve noticed the cherry wood seem to crack more often. I have a cherry that cracked within a few weeks after getting it. I decided to buy a walnut unit too. I didn’t want to be without my Enano while I sent the cherry unit in. I love a cherry Enano even though they occasionally crack.
If you have any trouble with your unit they have a 3 year warranty. Most units if they are going to crack it will usually crack right away.
Your unit should last you a long time. I’ve had mine for three years. I needed to send one back for warranty for the crack and another time a plug in area of my nano that became loose. Both times I received my units back from Epicvape in a two week period of time. I don’t remember the warranty on the heater? Some other vapes have a lifetime warranty on the heater.
I use my Enano a lot of the time. I love the ease of use and the great vapor flavor it produces. You have chosen well buying this log vape. I do love the wood and the thick glass stems. I enjoy a glass airpath. These units are beautiful as well as a really wonderful home vaporizer. Plus affordable.
I’ve noticed the cherry wood seem to crack more often. I have a cherry that cracked within a few weeks after getting it. I decided to buy a walnut unit too. I didn’t want to be without my Enano while I sent the cherry unit in. I love a cherry Enano even though they occasionally crack.
If you have any trouble with your unit they have a 3 year warranty. Most units if they are going to crack it will usually crack right away.
Your unit should last you a long time. I’ve had mine for three years. I needed to send one back for warranty for the crack and another time a plug in area of my nano that became loose. Both times I received my units back from Epicvape in a two week period of time. I don’t remember the warranty on the heater? Some other vapes have a lifetime warranty on the heater.
I use my Enano a lot of the time. I love the ease of use and the great vapor flavor it produces. You have chosen well buying this log vape. I do love the wood and the thick glass stems. I enjoy a glass airpath. These units are beautiful as well as a really wonderful home vaporizer. Plus affordable.
Just what I have observed on the thread. I’ve heard others say the same.Is that just your opinion from personal experience or have you noticed a lot of complaints about the cherry?
Just what I have observed on the thread. I’ve heard others say the same.
Why would there be a defect in manufacturing? Some wood will split t and others don’t.I wonder why? Cherry is rated as the same hardness as maple. Maybe there was some other defect in the manufacture that had nothing to do with the type of wood itself. (At least that’s what I hope because the cherry appeals to me the most.)
Anyone know the difference in length between the long and regular stems?
@Sleep
The extra long stem is 57mm/2.25 inches longer than regular. The regular is approximately 6"/150mm long.
My nano is Cherry and it's fine and it is old. Because they are wood, and wood can/does have natural defects that aren't visible on the surface. That's what will cause a Nano to crack, it's not the species and Cherry is no more likely to crack than Walnut or Maple when turned for a Nano. Full stop. Most times the failure will become apparent at the shop, but sometimes that defect will grow and crack as it warms and cools with use. Make sense?
Like I said, I've read the whole thread and I don't remember one species having a higher failure rate over the other two. If that were the case and the failure was measurable and consistent, I doubt that Andy would offer it as a choice. He would certainly know better than we do and wouldn't be a very good businessman, and yet we know he is. You have to realise that what you get when asking questions on a forum, any forum, is anecdotal evidence at best. Basic science, correlation does not equal causation.
The NANO is on 24/7 so I can MEDICATE to experience CIVILIZATIONNo worries man, did you get the convertor wall wart ordered?
If you plan to use it dry primarily, do yourself a favour and call EpicVape tomorrow to see if your power cord has shipped yet. If not, add a xl stem to your order - I think everyone who enjoys their Nano dry should have one. Obviously not if you plan on going through a water tool mostly. The regular dry stem is great - very flavourful, but the XL delivers that same flavour a bit cooler. I find it to be easier on the throat; but if I want a big hit, a j-hook or a piece of @ataxian approved glass is what I reach for.
No worries man, did you get the convertor wall wart ordered?
If you plan to use it dry primarily, do yourself a favour and call EpicVape tomorrow to see if your power cord has shipped yet. If not, add a xl stem to your order - I think everyone who enjoys their Nano dry should have one. Obviously not if you plan on going through a water tool mostly. The regular dry stem is great - very flavourful, but the XL delivers that same flavour a bit cooler. I find it to be easier on the throat; but if I want a big hit, a j-hook or a piece of @ataxian approved glass is what I reach for.
The more figured the wood (more grain, burl, and such) the greater the chance that there will be some fault or void within the wood.
In custom shotgun stock blanks...its not unheard of to buy a VERY high end piece of wood and once it gets cut into to find that it has voids and internal cracks.
Also, curing of the wood has much to do with it.....wood I have bought for shotgun stocks can be as old as a decade and be at about 10% humidity. Too much humidity in wood will contribute to cracking if it dries too fast.
Rock maple is about the best for ensuring no cracking, IMO. Fine and even grain will yield a very robust final product.
The more figured the wood (more grain, burl, and such) the greater the chance that there will be some fault or void within the wood.
In custom shotgun stock blanks...its not unheard of to buy a VERY high end piece of wood and once it gets cut into to find that it has voids and internal cracks.
Also, curing of the wood has much to do with it.....wood I have bought for shotgun stocks can be as old as a decade and be at about 10% humidity. Too much humidity in wood will contribute to cracking if it dries too fast.
Rock maple is about the best for ensuring no cracking, IMO. Fine and even grain will yield a very robust final product.
Usually walnut....almost all stocks are made of walnut of one variety or another. And yeah, in the neck of the stock (in the grip area) is the most common place for a crack. I had this happen to the stock of a $20k dollar custom competition clay target gun (the wood is spectacular....let me see if I have a pic to post). But highly figured wood means higher probability of cracking and I did get a crack right way in the neck area. Very small, caught early, pinned and glued and 18 years later I still can hardly find where it was.I don't know what types of wood they use in shotgun blanks but I had one crack on me. It was a brand new Beretta and the stock split right along a seam in the wood through the grip area. They upgraded me on the warranty exchange. In that situation also, the wood had split only after a few months of ownership.
Nanos and shotguns: A kindred spirit?
Who knew?
Usually walnut....almost all stocks are made of walnut of one variety or another. And yeah, in the neck of the stock (in the grip area) is the most common place for a crack. I had this happen to the stock of a $20k dollar custom competition clay target gun (the wood is spectacular....let me see if I have a pic to post). But highly figured wood means higher probability of cracking and I did get a crack right way in the neck area. Very small, caught early, pinned and glued and 18 years later I still can hardly find where it was.
Back to the Enano...wood is wood and sometimes it will have a hidden flaw. Some folks like the flaws and think it adds character others not so much. Its a trade off....most robust wood will have plain straight grain. More figured wood looks good but it more liable to cracking and/or voids.
Usually walnut....almost all stocks are made of walnut of one variety or another. And yeah, in the neck of the stock (in the grip area) is the most common place for a crack. I had this happen to the stock of a $20k dollar custom competition clay target gun (the wood is spectacular....let me see if I have a pic to post). But highly figured wood means higher probability of cracking and I did get a crack right way in the neck area. Very small, caught early, pinned and glued and 18 years later I still can hardly find where it was.
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That is some beautiful wood. Looks like the stock of a trap gun that I've seen in the past.