leave it on for like 24 hours and then hit it with a wire brush.Hey guys, been getting better with the enano but...
Last night the nano actually caught a fringe on my window curtain (completely my own stupid fault). Nothing mega bad happen, no fire or anything, it just smoldered/burned a single fringe.
However, now some of the charred fringe is stuck to the rod/heating element. I scraped most of it off, but there's one little bit below the line where the glass stem rests that seems to just not come off. Advice?
this weekend I got a chance to try out the E-Nano with my newly received D020-D water tool.
This is a nice little corner of the internet.
I am so impressed with this thing! I'll post a review (later on) and try to make it easy to read with Pros and Cons. I'll say off the bat that the issue that initially disappointed me was heat control. Well, I've parked the EVO, Volcano, just sold the Plenty, and I have to pick up my Vortex stem for my Solo on Monday. So, just this device. I notice leaving it at 6, I can be in pain and just suck up what is pre-prepped and it perfectly browns it, and only needs one stir. This is because of heat soaking, and I learned the heat and whether or not the unit is soaked and what kind of draw you just took depends on your next. What I mean is, after 3 draws the heat soak that extracted so well is gone. In this case I was climbing temps slow and not darkening the material. Long story short is that is seems the trick is to start at 6, heat soaked, and now I've learned to jump straight to 7-7.5 in order for the heater to get hot enough to perform like an extremely long heat soak at 6.
So, I am getting consistent and proper vapor with a heat soak at 6, and once the temp seems to struggle to keep up a bit, it is already pretty second nature to understand how high to bump it up for your next draw. I don't have to keep temp climbing after this. If I'm constantly pulling and keeping the heating element struggling, the number I turn it up to is where it stays until I am finished with a session, always keeping in mind if I walk away for a bit I need to turn it down, first, so I don't get a heat soaked hit at setting 8... And yes, it conserves. My actual review should be a lot more organized, but I wanted to comment , because it seems to be doing well.
P. S. If anyone would like me to take images and upload a tutorial of how to use a Storz and Bickel fine screen to eliminate even the finest particles from entering the stem (and your mouth), let me know and I'll show you 2 options and explain the results, with one option being to put the more coarse factory screen inside of the Volcano fine screen to give it more support if for some reason you feel it needs it. Draw resistance seems unnoticeably different from the basic screen, and the only build up you'll ever get in your glass are oils. Not a single flake enters the tube. Nothing but oils, and no more dust in the mouth, ever. My glass screened stem fills my mouth with dust and can't use it, but my mistake on ordering it. I highly suggest the adjustable tube, and cannot suggest enough an S&B fine screen. If you need the long tool I have just let me know, because I know some use a pick and wouldn't be able to get a fine screen from the top of the mouthpiece to where it needs to be, and with the little tool I have, you just simply push the screen to the recommended position. Putting the stock screen on top of a flat S&B fine screen, centering it and pushing it thru will shape the fine screen like the stock. Then pull out the tougher screen and press the fine screen thru until it reaches the suggested position, and you're good and particle free!
I’d like to get a water tool, but I want to use it dry. I dislike bongs (although I may put water in whatever I get every so often). Looking at the glass thread and this one, it seems the D020-D is all the rage, but would that do for dry usage just to cool the vapor a tad? I also like the idea of setting the Nano on top of the WT. I considered a J-Hook, but I’d rather get something that has a base. I also would like the draw to be as easy as possible. Would the D020-D fit the bill?
Did you get it at DHgate? How long did it take to get to you?
Ain't it the truth!
I considered a J-Hook, but I’d rather get something that has a base. I also would like the draw to be as easy as possible.
If you're using a water pipe dry there should be minimal draw restriction with the nano.
I've been tempted to get one of these to use as a dry piece, I like how the bottom is flat so it stands up:
http://m.dhgate.com/product/2015-bongs-water-pipes-glass-hammer-6-arm/249445965.html
If you're using a water pipe dry there should be minimal draw restriction with the nano.
I've been tempted to get one of these to use as a dry piece, I like how the bottom is flat so it stands up:
http://m.dhgate.com/product/2015-bongs-water-pipes-glass-hammer-6-arm/249445965.html
So my nano arrived yesterday and it's beautiful and even smaller than I thought. I actually thought it was gonna be in the box that had the power cord in it and when it is wasn't I thought it can't possibly be in this other tiny little box can it? Lol
A question about the stems though. My stem is pretty wobbly is that normal? Is every stem different in this regard?
So my nano arrived yesterday and it's beautiful and even smaller than I thought. I actually thought it was gonna be in the box that had the power cord in it and when it is wasn't I thought it can't possibly be in this other tiny little box can it? Lol
A question about the stems though. My stem is pretty wobbly is that normal? Is every stem different in this regard?
If something breaks late at night because you are medicated and tired
I don't advise you do it often, but you can even drink the water.
Yeah, I have pre-measured doses in medicine cups. So, to be fair, there are no breaks, and it simply pulls the heat soak off, and of course it is not a perpetual heating system to keep up with draw speed variations. It can start out browning the material on the first stem on 6, and after the first stem I get a flavor pull, and no real noticeable browning at this point. On the next stem I don't get any visible vapor. I have to turn the heat up on mine after it pulls the heat soak. If I were to leave it on at 7.5 and take a draw after it has been soaking for a while it may be possible to combust. I haven't attempted, haha.Not sure exactly what you mean here, but if I'm reading you right this is something I've never experienced with a nano with more than 3 1/2 years of nearly daily use. I've tried, and many others who've used my nanos have tried, to draw the heat down. That never happens, and the only consistent result is usually a good bit of coughing. So, are you saying the heat draws down with continued hitting - or that all the actives that can be drawn out at that heat are now spent?
..... Wow, @flotntoke, you’ve distilled dozens of forum pages concerning glass and the nano into a few simple paragraphs. Extremely helpful. The D020-D is probably the best bet for now. But that J-Hook. Where did you get that? THAT I could see using. I think it would be, as @ataxian would say, civilized.
That’s good to know, I hadn’t thought of that. Perhaps the nastiest thing about bongs as far as I’m concerned is all that fetid water sloshing around all over the place. That takes care of that.
Yeah, I have pre-measured doses in medicine cups. So, to be fair, there are no breaks, and it simply pulls the heat soak off, and of course it is not a perpetual heating system to keep up with draw speed variations. It can start out browning the material on the first stem on 6, and after the first stem I get a flavor pull, and no real noticeable browning at this point. On the next stem I don't get any visible vapor. I have to turn the heat up on mine after it pulls the heat soak. If I were to leave it on at 7.5 and take a draw after it has been soaking for a while it may be possible to combust. I haven't attempted, haha.
At the moment JoDa isn't doing any custom pieces, he's busy doing a large production run for a local shop. I've asked recently as well as a couple others. He usually has a few pre-made pieces available for sale.Joda still does AMAZING work, but not sure what his pricing and turnaround time is these days.
I am referring to the the unit itself heat soaking. I actually take a draw right away, because I feel some vapor could escape since the heater is close to the material. I turned it down a bit, and now it seems to vape like I feel it should, and a ton more vapor for some odd reason vs blasting the heat for 2 draws. I actually got lengthy draws that were effective. Somehow my method was so bad that even tho charring the material, I felt nothing from those pulls. How could that be that I feel a Lot if I go slower when adjusting heat?No problem. Plenty of others coming through who will hopefully see all this, too.
Should have also mentioned that it pays to be kind of discerning with DHgate. Just like eBay or anything else, some vendors tend to better than others. SunshineStore has always been good to me and has a good rep with most over in the Cheap Bubbler thread. Link to their D020-D . There are a few others I'd go with over there, but I'd use them for this piece. And, WOW! Can't believe how prices have climbed on this one. Still a great buy though, IMO.
Just for options, here is the FC-UFO I was talking about. It's a great bubb, and super versatile, but if you're going to use the tubing (I love this while kicked back watching the tube), you'll want to replace the hose with something a little more taste neutral and probably healthier. Let me know if you want more info on that part.
This one is worth checking out, too. Nice sidecar with more volume than the D020-D. There is one I like a little better, but can't post here because it has a fake label of a well known glass maker on it. Let me know if you like the style, and I'll pm the link
That j-hook was a custom I had made by Yeti House - a blower who I don't think is taking orders for customs anymore. He came on as a friend of Joda/ @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd. Joda still does AMAZING work, but not sure what his pricing and turnaround time is these days. He's moved on to bigger, better and more beautiful things, but think still does j-hooks and all kinds of cool nano stems/GonGs. Check out his thread. I pop by there often just to see all the great glass porn and drool.
This now makes more sense. I didn't realize you were heat soaking so much. Nothing wrong with that. nano is super versatile and many use it in different ways. But, seems like you're relying more on heat soak, instead of "flowing" heat, for your temp. If you're only heating with air flowing through the load while hitting, I think you'll find it is damned near perpetual heating. Well, not quite perpetual, but much more than any human lungs I've seen can overcome. This is what I was getting at above.
For me and many others, heat soak is only for a few seconds to warm the glass and heat to extract is pulled through the load straight from the heater. Most I ever go for heat soak is like 15-20 seconds, then I rely on the hot air pulled through nano on my draw. And, I only do this on first hit of load to warm the glass and kind of "prep" the load. After that, I usually hit as soon as nano is on, then pull it. The only time I leave the nano on the load through my session is when I'm using the j-hook and kicked back on the sofa or the porch. With that, I seldom take heat above 6 and just sip nice lower temp vapor - usually right around 5.5 - 5.75, and the carbed GonG adapter allows me to hit and clear without pulling nano.
If the heat soak method you're using is working for you, enjoy it! And, please share developments in your technique. But, I think you owe it to yourself to try the more standard method a couple times. IMO it's a better nano experience. Instead of slowly roasting your load while keeping it at whatever temp, you're only heating while you're hitting. Maybe not totally accurate, but your method seems more like lighting a bowl while smoking and keeping the ember going. Kind of like smoking a tobacco pipe. The other method is more like lighting a small portion of a bowl on each hit, and letting it go out between hits. I like this much better and it should lead to tastier and more intense hits through each load, but YMMV.
Speaking of the heat soak on the Nano, only.@Vapor Trails are you talking about heat soaking the stem or the nano?
How long are you leaving the nano on before using it?
The nano, like all logs, functions best when it is on constantly. It is best to heat soak it for 20-30 minutes before use. This ensures consistent vapor production from hit to hit.
The nano produces more consistent vapor than any other vape I have. For any given strain, with the same grind, load size, temp level, and technique, I get hits that are very consistent in quality.
The only time it's not consistent is if it's been sitting a while the first hit's temp might be slightly higher and cause more browning than normal. This can be counteracted by giving a quick sharp blow into the heater core before using. I only do this if it's a partially used chamber. If it's a fresh load I find the extra heat actually helps produce vapor faster without any unwanted browning.
I strongly recommend leaving the nano on whenever you're home. It may feel weird at first but it's perfectly fine and doesn't use much electricity. Knowing your log is ready to go at a moment's notice is a great feeling.
@flotntoke knows way more than anyone on this thread!I am referring to the the unit itself heat soaking. I actually take a draw right away, because I feel some vapor could escape since the heater is close to the material. I turned it down a bit, and now it seems to vape like I feel it should, and a ton more vapor for some odd reason vs blasting the heat for 2 draws. I actually got lengthy draws that were effective. Somehow my method was so bad that even tho charring the material, I felt nothing from those pulls. How could that be that I feel a Lot if I go slower when adjusting heat?
Speaking of the heat soak on the Nano, only.
I'm very rarely able to leave my home anymore, and so this is my always on, always ready vape.