Toastface_Killah
Well-Known Member
Stando in the mail, super stoked to not have to rest my nano on my couch cushion anymore!
E-Nano from Epickai
re: screen getting clogged while looking clear
i have gotten into the habit of taking empty bowl hits (get some good hits) when the screen airflow is too much decreased, and it seems moving the basket screen around vertically a tiny bit in beween every couple loads prevents edge wand hash from building up, and airflow stays good for days on end of heavy use.
i have gotten into the habit of taking empty bowl hits (get some good hits) when the screen airflow is too much decreased, and it seems moving the basket screen around vertically a tiny bit in beween every couple loads prevents edge wand hash from building up, and airflow stays good for days on end of heavy use.
Caligula
Maximus
How are you hooking the Nano up to the Orbiter?
herbalist33
Well-Known Member
I'm using the 14mm gong in the top, and drawing through the longer whip.
I was 'doing science' with it last night, and yep, I definitely have to draw faster to milk it. I almost have to pull as if I'm clearing the thing, but it literally clouds up in about 2 seconds. If I draw slow there's no vapour at all. But the clouds I get even after a 5second hit are unreal. I'm gunna clean my glass an post a couple videos in the next day or two.
Also I'm thinking of ordering the gong mouthpiece from underdog so that I can ditch the whip completely, coz that's prob where most of the draw resistance is coming from.
Lahey
Cruisin'
I remember some of you swear by using the nano dry. I always preferred using it with a water pipe more than the stems, because I think I found it to be a little to hot on my throat with the stems. I think you can sip with the stems but I like to hit it pretty aggressively. So I finally tried my water pipe dry and it is awesome! The flavor is more prominent, the balance of air flow to resistance is better, and less clean up to boot! I'm pretty pleased, I don't know why I didn't take some peoples' advice and try it sooner! I guess I am stubborn that way? Thanks for the tip, guys.
Lahey
Cruisin'
One more thing, I also finally started making my own screens. I was thinking of making a wooden dowel press, but I ended up being able to Macguyver it which is always more fun.
I realized my old honeycomb stem (the OG one before the thick walled stems came out) could act as the mold, and then searched around for a pen that was a good fit and had a flat end. I found this Paper Mate Eagle. I think it is the same size as a bic pen, but the cap has a flatter end on it.
The pen is not totally flush with the inside of the honeycomb stem, so the screens were coming out just a hair too small and had too much give when loading my GonGs. But by pressing two screens into the honeycomb stem at once, one inside of the other, You get one thicker screen that is a good tight fit in your stem or GonG.
I find that I like the two screens pressed into one better, as it keeps my piece cleaner, provides a very small amount of extra resistance, and is more durable.
I realize not everyone will have a honeycomb stem, but this is what worked for me. I'm sure you could use a regular stem, you would just need to press the screen from both sides. Not sure the OD of the SS screens I used, I think maybe 5/8". Also I prefer not to trim the finished screen, because the extra length gives it better purchase in the stem or GonG.
So now I just have a bunch of these ready to go. When they get clogged up mid sesh I swap them out and throw the dirty ones in a jar. When I get down to only a few left I take all the dirty ones and torch em and start over.
Somebody tell me if I should be posting these as links instead of BBcode. I don't want to hog peoples' bandwidth too much.
I realized my old honeycomb stem (the OG one before the thick walled stems came out) could act as the mold, and then searched around for a pen that was a good fit and had a flat end. I found this Paper Mate Eagle. I think it is the same size as a bic pen, but the cap has a flatter end on it.
The pen is not totally flush with the inside of the honeycomb stem, so the screens were coming out just a hair too small and had too much give when loading my GonGs. But by pressing two screens into the honeycomb stem at once, one inside of the other, You get one thicker screen that is a good tight fit in your stem or GonG.
I find that I like the two screens pressed into one better, as it keeps my piece cleaner, provides a very small amount of extra resistance, and is more durable.
I realize not everyone will have a honeycomb stem, but this is what worked for me. I'm sure you could use a regular stem, you would just need to press the screen from both sides. Not sure the OD of the SS screens I used, I think maybe 5/8". Also I prefer not to trim the finished screen, because the extra length gives it better purchase in the stem or GonG.
So now I just have a bunch of these ready to go. When they get clogged up mid sesh I swap them out and throw the dirty ones in a jar. When I get down to only a few left I take all the dirty ones and torch em and start over.
Somebody tell me if I should be posting these as links instead of BBcode. I don't want to hog peoples' bandwidth too much.
Toastface_Killah
Well-Known Member
How do you maintain that exactly? Is it just a trick you have or do you not grind? Avoiding grinding is the only way I can avoid my screens clogging up extremely fast, but I prefer the gigantic visible clouds a fine grind gives, so I'm constantly changing out my screens or else it feels like I am trying to suck a marble through a straw.. Hitting the stem without a load seems to make the airflow better for an additional one or two hits, but I still find I need to eventually swap out the screenI have never removed the screens from any of my gongs and stems that came with my enano in early May. I keep my screens perfectly clean with basically no effort — no need to ever remove them or torch them or make new ones.
At least you are having fun.
How do you maintain that exactly? Is it just a trick you have or do you not grind? Avoiding grinding is the only way I can avoid my screens clogging up extremely fast, but I prefer the gigantic visible clouds a fine grind gives, so I'm constantly changing out my screens or else it feels like I am trying to suck a marble through a straw.. Hitting the stem without a load seems to make the airflow better for an additional one or two hits, but I still find I need to eventually swap out the screen
I never remove my screens and they do get clogged, but I have enough extra GonG's I usually simply swap out and clean the entire GonG and screen as time permits.
Usually I start by setting my Nano to 10 and letting it preheat a bit. Then I do several hard rips through the vape to loose material. Then I pull the GonG off my bubbler and blow through the reverse to knock loose any debris still stuck to the screen. Depending on how bad they are, I may soak the whole GonG stem in 91% ISO.
Usually a few good rips at 10 and my screen is good enough
fregglepops
Well-Known Member
my screen only really needs cleaning if I've run some hash in there,if using just flower I find that the screens are remarkably resilient to clogging,i must not be consuming enough........my bank balance would beg to differ tho........![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
Lahey
Cruisin'
I have never removed the screens from any of my gongs and stems that came with my enano in early May. I keep my screens perfectly clean with basically no effort — no need to ever remove them or torch them or make new ones.
At least you are having fun.
That's interesting. I find that after a few dozen GonGs that my screens become so coated in resin that the resistance becomes too much. I will have to post a picture when my current one gets dirty enough.
Can you provide a little more detail about how you are able to keep your screens perfectly clean with so little effort? Do you grind your material?
I made these because I felt like they would make my life a little easier. They took a few minutes to make, and take a few minutes to clean all at once. If I knew how to keep them from getting plugged up, obviously I wouldn't have bothered making these.
How do you maintain that exactly? Is it just a trick you have or do you not grind? Avoiding grinding is the only way I can avoid my screens clogging up extremely fast, but I prefer the gigantic visible clouds a fine grind gives, so I'm constantly changing out my screens or else it feels like I am trying to suck a marble through a straw.. Hitting the stem without a load seems to make the airflow better for an additional one or two hits, but I still find I need to eventually swap out the screen
Second this. Maybe it is just because I like a really fine grind, for the same reason mentioned above.
Last edited by a moderator:
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Course grind or whole flower nuggets is my method!
Fine grind some like bettèr?
OMEiAM
Well-Known Member
I used to grind fine because it indeed gave huger clouds, but it was annoying to have the screen clogged often. A course grind and the right temperature is all you need.
Lahey
Cruisin'
Thanks for clarifying, I think I see now. We have a different approach to the same end, which is maintaining airflow. My motivation was to avoid having to buy extra gongs and to conserve ISO. Right now I just have two gongs, eventually I would like to have more. I clean them maybe once a month and just swap the screens to maintain airflow. I actually kind of like the bit of honey oil that gets coated around the inside of the gong over time, I think maybe it imparts a little something extra to a hit. It also gives the screens extra purchase.
al bundy
Vaporist
One more thing, I also finally started making my own screens. I was thinking of making a wooden dowel press, but I ended up being able to Macguyver it which is always more fun.
I realized my old honeycomb stem (the OG one before the thick walled stems came out) could act as the mold, and then searched around for a pen that was a good fit and had a flat end. I found this Paper Mate Eagle. I think it is the same size as a bic pen, but the cap has a flatter end on it.
The pen is not totally flush with the inside of the honeycomb stem, so the screens were coming out just a hair too small and had too much give when loading my GonGs. But by pressing two screens into the honeycomb stem at once, one inside of the other, You get one thicker screen that is a good tight fit in your stem or GonG.
I find that I like the two screens pressed into one better, as it keeps my piece cleaner, provides a very small amount of extra resistance, and is more durable.
I realize not everyone will have a honeycomb stem, but this is what worked for me. I'm sure you could use a regular stem, you would just need to press the screen from both sides. Not sure the OD of the SS screens I used, I think maybe 5/8". Also I prefer not to trim the finished screen, because the extra length gives it better purchase in the stem or GonG.
So now I just have a bunch of these ready to go. When they get clogged up mid sesh I swap them out and throw the dirty ones in a jar. When I get down to only a few left I take all the dirty ones and torch em and start over.
Somebody tell me if I should be posting these as links instead of BBcode. I don't want to hog peoples' bandwidth too much.
I've been using a 5mm deep well socket, with a 23/64 drill bit hole drilled through a 2x2 piece of wood,center the screen and hit with a hammer. Come out the other side shaped. Trim the excess. I use them in my PG stem and gong fit nice.
Not home so can't post pic.
Try cutting a screen square then round the corners before shaping. I notice that's how the No2 screens are cut with squared,round corners. Will try this with the next screens I have to make.
Hey all!
I wanted to share with you one of my recently finished custom orders - a 3D printed wood case for the Nano's temperature controller!
http://imgur.com/sEwvnXt,cKPPYo6,tBAkWaG,I9PNYmI,FTRmMSZ
Here's a few pictures:
This is pushing the limits of my 3D printer's capabilities (FDM technology isn't perfect), but this part came out great with enough practice! The design could still use some tweaking, but I've gotten quite busy and need to focus on customer orders before I can work on more R&D!
As such, I'm not prepared to list this item on my etsy store since it's quite a labor of love at this point. However, if anyone would like to obtain one, please PM me for information.
I wanted to share with you one of my recently finished custom orders - a 3D printed wood case for the Nano's temperature controller!
http://imgur.com/sEwvnXt,cKPPYo6,tBAkWaG,I9PNYmI,FTRmMSZ
Here's a few pictures:
This is pushing the limits of my 3D printer's capabilities (FDM technology isn't perfect), but this part came out great with enough practice! The design could still use some tweaking, but I've gotten quite busy and need to focus on customer orders before I can work on more R&D!
As such, I'm not prepared to list this item on my etsy store since it's quite a labor of love at this point. However, if anyone would like to obtain one, please PM me for information.
icanreadgood
Well-Known Member
About to buy my 3rd enano, my 2 others still working great, and was wondering if anyone knows of any upcoming sales/discounts? My guess is black friday would be the next?
TeeJay1952
Well-Known Member
Caligula
Maximus
Hey all!
I wanted to share with you one of my recently finished custom orders - a 3D printed wood case for the Nano's temperature controller!
http://imgur.com/sEwvnXt,cKPPYo6,tBAkWaG,I9PNYmI,FTRmMSZ
Here's a few pictures:
This is pushing the limits of my 3D printer's capabilities (FDM technology isn't perfect), but this part came out great with enough practice! The design could still use some tweaking, but I've gotten quite busy and need to focus on customer orders before I can work on more R&D!
As such, I'm not prepared to list this item on my etsy store since it's quite a labor of love at this point. However, if anyone would like to obtain one, please PM me for information.
I dont have an issue with my dial, but my brother would love this.
I don't often have an issue - but it's an option. I rather enjoy the keyhole in the bottom more - I've been using a suction cup (Thanks @ACE OF VAPE for the suggestion!) to keep the PWM in position (depending on the bubbler used, sometimes I suction cup to the piece itself!) - I should get a picture of that
Melting Pot
Sick & Twisted
Getting ready to pull the trigger on my Super Exotic Enano thanks to @Snappo and @ACE OF VAPE anyone know any codes thanks in advance
Reflections
Well-Known Member
@Melting Pot www.epicvape.com use the code:FCLOVE for 10% OFF!
Melting Pot
Sick & Twisted
Awesome thanks @Reflections