cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Click the link, it will take you to the Dynavap Twitch page where all their videos are available. More direct link might be.


I would have figured a cyberguy would know these things. :lol:
So, I had a look. I am just curious because I don't know motivations. Was that TeaTime intended to be a Simrell Ad or did it just turn out that way? I thought it was an introduction to the Armored Cap. I lasted about halfway through the second part...
I liked that StardustTailor came up. I have one of his pieces that another user gave me (Thank you) but I miss his quality work in the Dynasphere.

Speaking of the new cap, I ordered one over the weekend and it hasn't shipped yet (according to the site). That probably means they either had an overwhelming response or they didn't create enough stock before the announcement. I hope for them it's the former.

One other thing to add. The Armored Cap is going to lean a little more on the "captive" feature because it is likely too thick to easily bend out of round to grab the tip. I think George said they are a little tighter than regular caps to help with this, but it will be interesting to see how easily they come off with a magnet.
 
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Bisko

Member
One other thing to add. The Armored Cap is going to lean a little more on the "captive" feature because it is likely too thick to easily bend out of round to grab the tip. I think George said they are a little tighter than regular caps to help with this, but it will be interesting to see how easily they come off with a magnet.
Mine was super tight, but I took an M mouthpiece and stuck it in the armored cap to smooth out the captive indents, and now it’s much easier to remove
 

Petetbay

Well-Known Member
I think George said they are a little tighter than regular caps to help with this, but it will be interesting to see how easily they come off with a magnet.
Without even trying the Armored cap, I’m pretty sure it’s not coming off with just a magnet, it will be tight. The FMJ has the same problem, the Reload decapper or similar might work, even those have problems as the pull to decap is greater than the pull to get the tip off. It might loosen with time as the indents wear(that could be assisted, but you won’t be able to tighten again), but it is intended not to fall off and be a hazard because of the extra weight. :2c:
 
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Without even trying the Armored cap, I’m pretty sure it’s not coming off with just a magnet, it will be tight. The FMJ has the same problem, the Reload decapper or similar might work, even those have problems as the pull to decap is greater than the pull to get the tip off. It might loosen with time as the indents wear(that could be assisted), but it is intended not to fall off and be hazard because of the extra weight. :2c:
Hence the leather decapper--can't see it coming off with just a magnet. I'll try the M mp method @Bisko posted to see if I can't loosen it just a tad, but the keyring may be a good idea so you don't have to weaken the captivators too much.
 
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cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Without even trying the Armored cap, I’m pretty sure it’s not coming off with just a magnet, it will be tight
The Reload has the strongest disk magnet I have tried and I am able to take some very tightly held caps with it. We'll see about the AC. I don't doubt that a regular magnet will struggle. I DID order the leather decapper just in case.

And btw, I think Austin said the cap did fit in his PSM.
 

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
I’m still struggling removing my Armored cap and doing back to back hits with a few stems I’ve tried. Any stem without a very tight tolerance, once hot, will pull the tip and cap out together. Not all stems but some. If this is the case it almost requires two tools to remove the cap. I’m certainly happy it’s not falling off. A magnet is not working for me, even a Revolve magnet or a Simrell pedestal. Maybe I should smooth my indents out? Other than that it seems to be preforming as advertised. I’ve been working all day and it’s 5 o’clock.

Edit: I can confirm yes the PSM works with the Armored cap.

Edit 2: @cyberguy It does fit in the heater of the PSM but because the sleeve creates a low spot/cavity on the clicker end it is unable to engage the switch. So YES it fits, NO it doesn’t work. It does work with my Hot Shot because of the wood disk that makes the bottom of the heating chamber flat.
FB932-D13-9-B91-4-F99-9-C09-9-B592-E705-F3-B.jpg
 
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I’m still struggling removing my Armored cap and doing back to back hits with a few stems I’ve tried. Any stem without a very tight tolerance, once hot, will pull the tip and cap out together. Not all stems but some. If this is the case it almost requires two tools to remove the cap. I’m certainly happy it’s not falling off. A magnet is not working for me, even a Revolve magnet or a Simrell pedestal. Maybe I should smooth my indents out? Other than that it seems to be preforming as advertised. I’ve been working all day and it’s 5 o’clock.

Edit: I can confirm yes the PSM works with the Armored cap.

Edit 2: @cyberguy It does fit in the heater of the PSM but because the sleeve creates a low spot/cavity on the clicker end it is unable to engage the switch. So YES it fits, NO it doesn’t work. It does work with my Hot Shot because of the wood disk that makes the bottom of the heating chamber flat.
FB932-D13-9-B91-4-F99-9-C09-9-B592-E705-F3-B.jpg
It unscrews off the std Ti tip, fwiw. Pretty dang tight, though.
 

ezpz

Well-Known Member
Edit 2: @cyberguy It does fit in the heater of the PSM but because the sleeve creates a low spot/cavity on the clicker end it is unable to engage the switch. So YES it fits, NO it doesn’t work. It does work with my Hot Shot because of the wood disk that makes the bottom of the heating chamber flat.
@The Stray Fox
Earlier PSM models had the button switch. Later models came with a silicone or wood disc over the button to prevent the cap from denting. Then the Hotshot replaced the PSM.

So I have a later model PSM with a silicone disc and awaiting my armored cap. I'm hopeful it'll work since the disc is flat, but wish I had the wooden one instead of silicone, since the longer duration of the hot cap pressed against silicone is worrisome.
 

Choices

Well-Known Member
@The Stray Fox
Earlier PSM models had the button switch. Later models came with a silicone or wood disc over the button to prevent the cap from denting. Then the Hotshot replaced the PSM.

So I have a later model PSM with a silicone disc and awaiting my armored cap. I'm hopeful it'll work since the disc is flat, but wish I had the wooden one instead of silicone, since the longer duration of the hot cap pressed against silicone is worrisome.
Do you have access to a hardware store? Perhaps you could take your PS Mini in with you or at a minimum the silicone cap and just see if there is a proper diameter “something” in the fittings section. Just a thought. Sometimes a good thirty minute wander will result in some impressive ingenuity! Good luck!
 

ezpz

Well-Known Member
Do you have access to a hardware store? Sometimes a good thirty minute wander will result in some impressive ingenuity! Good luck!
Thanks for this. I did some wandering on Pipes' thread and found this....
The easiest DIY is to slice wafers from 1/2" wood dowelling. :science:
And if anyone is interested........
I also get questions regarding the extra heatshield/spacer and the friction pad. Here's the scoop.
The wooden disc is the “heatshield” which can double as a spacer and the heat-resistant rubber cushion is a “friction pad” which is attached to the underside of the heatshield to keep it from falling out of the tube if the unit is inverted. The pad is affixed offset to the disc so some protrudes along the side. This protrusion acts as a kind of hinge by pressing against the tube pushing the wooden disc against the tube on the opposite side. The pressure is adjustable by increasing/decreasing the offset by peeling away the pad and reseating it.
To use the wooden disc as a spacer, it should be installed under the heatshield/cushion pad combo so it resides closest to the actual switch.
To remove the heatshield from the tube, you need tweezers. Push down on the side of the wooden disc closest to the glass tube. The disc should flip up enough to be able to grab with the tweezers and remove. To re-install, push down evenly with a VC cap.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I’m liking the armored cap, takes longer to heat than my fmj but seems to hold heat a little longer. It is very tight on my tip and can’t be easily re-shaped like a normal cap but I’ve gotten used to it.
I have been using it on a Vong at half-bowl heated normally (spinning, lower third of the cap, half inch single flame) and getting full extraction, very big one-hits with dark brown duff. I'll have to work on getting a little flavor but otherwise pretty successful.
 
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2pumpchump

Well-Known Member
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My guess is in the manufacturing process a process called sweging is used . With very tight tolerances the outer sleeve has to be heated to fit over the cap when it cools srinks and hugs it nice and tight..considering both cap and shield is the same metal the expand and contracts the same and will not separate resulting in more even thermal transfer down to a microscopic level . They should seat in to your tip after use .how long not sure
 

2pumpchump

Well-Known Member
Ss cap is harder than ti tip. The ss tip same as the cap . The scratching as you call it is actually marring meaning metal is just moved around not scraped off . Over extreme time it may be possible for a peace to come off but would be a flake not dust !
 

Xclerk

The Universe is our endless supply
What happens when "marring" crosses over other marring? How many marrs does it take? How does a file work? What would others call these micro particles? What have other companies done when they crossed this issue? What were peoples stances when this happned in the past? Wolcano? What was that outcome. Lol. Only questions?
 
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