Dynavap VapCap

[szai]

I feel like @VapCap needs to make an ih only cap. It would make the use of the ih easier for users.

However another way to deal with it is features of their IH. I think they should have a system that detects the click.

If their IH is able to detect the click then it can autoshut off based on the timing you set. What I mean is you set how long the heater runs after the click. So that you don't have to manage the timing manually.

szai, take a look at 420Science for PokitRokit. They are a little pricey. I have all three sizes and they are fantastic. All aluminum. They have two o'rings to seal the cap. The medium will hold a Nonavong Omni with one o'ring utilized. The large holds a 18mm carb-less vong. The small and the medium both fit inside an Altoids tin.
I have a media pouch that holds my Portside Mini, a couple PokitRokits, and a couple VapCaps. I can belt loop it or Molle suspend it. Doc

Edit: I just reread this. I didn't mean to sound like a salesman. Those two Jacks keep messing with me, Daniel and Herer.

Sounds cool,I might check them out!

 

[rz]

I feel like @VapCap needs to make an ih only cap. It would make the use of the ih easier for users.

If their IH is able to detect the click then autoshuts off based on the timing you set. What I mean is you set how long the heater runs after the click. So that you don't have to manage the timing manually.

I experimented a little with a piezo electric sensor. Hooked up to an oscilloscope, I could easily see a click, so I'm sure it would be possible to interface properly with a microcontroller. However, the click is an indicator that requires interpretation. It varies a lot depending on initial state of the cap (has heat spread to the fins yet, has there been a cooldown click yet? etc.. ) so relying on the click alone can be tricky.

Fortunately, there is a lot of development going on in the DV-IH realm Hang in there, and you'll eventually have a variety of solutions at your disposal

 

[szai]

I experimented a little with a piezo electric sensor. Hooked up to an oscilloscope, I could easily see a click, so I'm sure it would be possible to interface properly with a microcontroller. However, the click is an indicator that requires interpretation. It varies a lot depending on initial state of the cap (has heat spread to the fins yet, has there been a cooldown click yet? etc.. ) so relying on the click alone can be tricky.

Fortunately, there is a lot of development going on in the DV-IH realm Hang in there, and you'll eventually have a variety of solutions at your disposal

Nice! Yeah I think the DV IH has something like that already.

 

[Dutch-Mic]

For my fellow Europeans: Vaposhop sells the 2018 M now, a good way to obtain one without all the potential hassle (customs, extra taxes) when you order it directly from the US.

 

[stark1]

For those of us who wanted the SE Ti tips, and was thwarted, Joe @ DV should be contacted if you still
have a hanker for one, or two.

Seems DV has made a production run to spread the love....

 

[szai]

For those of us who wanted the SE Ti tips, and was thwarted, Joe @ DV should be contacted if you still
have a hanker for one, or two.

Seems DV has made a production run to spread the love....

How do we contact this Mr Joe Awesome?

 

[Mr.Sifter]

I did not follow this topic.
Whats the use of the 7fin LE tip again ?

 

[Dynavaper]

Whats the use of the 7fin LE tip again ?

Some say:

Spoiler

Others say:

Spoiler

I'd say:

Spoiler

F*cking both.

 

[szai]

I did not follow this topic.
Whats the use of the 7fin LE tip again ?

It's mainly an aesthetic reissue of Gen 4 with some improvements. Closer to Gen 5 performance airflow restriction wise.

 

[stark1]

PM Arielle?

 

[Summer]

For those of us who wanted the SE Ti tips, and was thwarted, Joe @ DV should be contacted if you still
have a hanker for one, or two.

Seems DV has made a production run to spread the love....

My understanding is that just enough during this 2nd run was produced to cover those on the reservations list who didn't get one when they fell short. So, I'm not to sure that there's open availability.

 

[cybrguy]

Scroll up to @phattpiggie s post above.

Ah. Completely missed PP's reference to a PS in a M&M container. Whoosh...

I feel like @VapCap needs to make an ih only cap. It would make the use of the ih easier for users.

How would it be different?

However another way to deal with it is features of their IH. I think they should have a system that detects the click.

If their IH is able to detect the click then it can autoshut off based on the timing you set. What I mean is you set how long the heater runs after the click. So that you don't have to manage the timing manually.

First I'm not sure what the benefit would be. So it autoshuts off. What then? And besides, counting to 3 or 4 is not much of a burden.

But more importantly we would be going in the opposite direction of what appears to be George's mission. Simple low tech designs. The tech is in the engineering and design, not in the devices themselves. It would seem cross purposes. To me.

Then again it's not the vape that is complicating, it is a heater, so we aren't really complicating the vape.

Oh nevermind...

 

[Mr.Sifter]

why is that you have to heat past the click with the induction heater ?
The click indicates a certain temp.

is the source of heat important ?

 

[szai]

Ah. Completely missed PP's reference to a PS in a M&M container. Whoosh...

How would it be different?

First I'm not sure what the benefit would be. So it autoshuts off. What then? And besides, counting to 3 or 4 is not much of a burden.

But more importantly we would be going in the opposite direction of what appears to be George's mission. Simple low tech designs. The tech is in the engineering and design, not in the devices themselves. It would seem cross purposes. To me.

Then again it's not the vape that is complicating, it is a heater, so we aren't really complicating the vape.

Oh nevermind...

The benefit or purpose of an ih cap would be the same as that is a regular cap. A device that clicks to indicate proper temperature.

why is that you have to heat past the click with the induction heater ?
The click indicates a certain temp.

is the source of heat important ?

With the ih heater you're heating the metal directly. Another thing is that it only heats the front of the tip. That ends up causing a few things.

1. You kind of have to to heat past the click.
2. You have to ensure that your material is tamped 2mm past the lip of the bowl.
3. The tip gets really hot

 

[mucsusn]

A final winter blast around our parts today. Significant other is off (teacher) so we get to hang out and drink good beer and celebrate her unexpected day off. Myself, I'm going for some barrel-aged specials today, along with some burls.......

Cheers!

 

[abjake55]

In the dynaverse, I found the nonavong to be a good mid price alternative, to upgrade from an M17 ss tip to a Ti tip .(85 vs 55 USD). Of course, the Lego effect and multi bodies and stems applies!

 

[Summer]

I emailed Joe @ dynavap concerning the distribution of the 2nd run of the LE 7-fin tips. Here's his reply, "I would very much appreciate if you could make a post in the DynaVap FC thread addressing this, and letting them know you got an official message from me that we are not selling more 7-fin LE tips at this time to anyone other than those who had originally reserved one."

 

[stardustsailor]

why is that you have to heat past the click with the induction heater ?
The click indicates a certain temp.

is the source of heat important ?

A hard guess to answering that is this :
When a lighter is used ,both the cap and the tip are heated equally (both absorb heat ) .
When it comes to induction heating, Titanium (tip)
has low magnetic permeability compared to stainless steel cap .
So the tip is not actually heated-that much- at this case.
So ,in order for the cap to assist the heating (via conduction) of the tip ,it needs some extra time .
Meanwhile ,the bimetallic disc most probably they have already snapped.
That's why you will have to go past the click .
If the tip is the stainless steel one ,then most probably you do not have to go past the click.

The frequency of the alternating current at the coil of an induction heater is crucial ,
for heating different materials and/or different masses of a certain material.

 

[Ricardo]

Another thing is that it only heats the front of the tip.

Really? So the full cylindrical surface of the tip is not being evenly heated? Is that the same with both the Portside and the new upcoming DV models? Seems less than ideal

 

[szai]

Really? So the full cylindrical surface of the tip is not being evenly heated? Is that the same with both the Portside and the new upcoming DV models? Seems less than ideal

Yes it only heats like half the bowl. You can get alive by how much material you use and heating technique. However I'm a newbie ATM and must thank @phattpiggie for even my little limited skill with IH use.

 

[stardustsailor]

Really? So the full cylindrical surface of the tip is not being evenly heated? Is that the same with both the Portside and the new upcoming DV models? Seems less than ideal

As the caps are heated ,gradually their stainless steel material changes from Martensite phase (which is ferromagnetic=high magnetic permeability) into Austenite phase ( which in turn is paramagnetic =lower
magnetic permeability) . Only part that remains ferromagnetic is the front of the tip (which is never heated past the Curie temperature of 304 SS =500°C ).
That's why(most probably) the tip of the cap is heated -more /faster-than the rest of the (used/aged) tip.
Brand new tips get heated evenly ,but with usage ,that will change....

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-caps-mature-as-they-age.26531/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_heating
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_temperature
https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-dont-magnets-work-on/

" As several others have mentioned, "stainless steel" is a broad category.
Most are always magnetic. The ones that are not magnetic are the
"austentic" stainless steels. These are among the most common ones, and
include the 300 series (303, 304, 316, etc.) These SS's can be made
magnetic by cold working, then "fixed" to be nonmagnetic again by
annealing. It may be that you have a piece that has just enough cold
working to be magnetic enough to lift at low T, but not enough to hold
at high T. You could try to reproduce this behavior with a fresh piece
by sandblasting the surface or banging with a hammer, etc. "

http://demoroom.physics.ncsu.edu/tapl/archive/200404/275.html


Another method you can try to restore the Martensite nature of the cap is deep freezing.

 

[szai]

As the caps are heated ,gradually their stainless steel material changes from Martensite phase (which is ferromagnetic=high magnetic permeability) into Austenite phase ( which in turn is paramagnetic =lower
magnetic permeability) . Only part that remains ferromagnetic is the front of the tip (which is never heated past the Curie point ).That's why(most probably) the tip of the cap is heated -more /faster-than the rest of the (used/aged) tip.
Brand new tips get heated evenly ,but with usage ,things change....

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-caps-mature-as-they-age.26531/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_heating

Yeah yeah you're not very clever at all! No one believes you. You handsome artistic engineer devil! Ma!

 

[KidFated.]

Decided to try a new cap this morning. I had 4 shiny ones. I definitely agree they need to be “broken in”

 

[Summer]

@stardustsailor, in layman's terms, I would say it like this (since I don't understand a thing you said):

The tip of the cap is being heated directly upon pressing/engaging the coil. The sides of the cap get heated via conduction rising up from the tip of the cap. As the coil on the sides of the cap are encased in glass & do not directly make contact with the sides of the cap, I'm sure the radiant heat that's being emitted from the side coils through the glass is also radiantly/conductively heating the sides of the cap. Not eloquently stated, & if I'm wrong, I'm sure you will correct me.

 

[mucsusn]

@stardustsailor, in layman's terms I would say it like this (since I don't understand a thing you said):

The tip of the cap is being heated directly upon pressing/engaging the coil. The sides of the cap get heated via conduction rising up from the tip of the cap. As the coil on the sides of the cap are encased in glass & do not directly make contact with the sides of the cap, I'm sure the radiant heat that's being emitted from the side coils through the glass is also radiantly/conductively heating the sides of the cap. Not eloquently stated, & if I'm wrong, I'm sure you will correct me.

No, that's not what he meant in layman's terms. What he said was that since induction heating is actually a magnetic process, that while the cap was heating, it's magnetic properties changed, thereby not heating as quickly as the tip of the cap, whose magnetic properties do not change as much. Now think about torch and cap properties, and you can deduce that the heating profile will be different. Essentially, the tip/clickers are behaving of their own accord, and the sidewalls of the cap need a few extra seconds of inductive energy to behave in the same manner that you are accustomed to with the torch.

One other quick way to correlate is to think of it as only heating near the tip, instead of further back, like we usually do with a torch. If you kept the flame only at the tip, you would have to heat longer to get equivalent results.

Also, the side coils emit no radiant heat, just magnetic waves. The ferrous materials in the cap radiate heat after converting the magnetic energy into heat energy. The only heat the entire circuit generates of its own accord is heat produced by inefficiencies in the the various energy conversion and delivery phases of the process.