stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@stardustsailor, in layman's terms I would say it like this (since I don't understand a thing you said):

The tip of the cap is being heated directly upon pressing/engaging the coil. The sides of the cap get heated via conduction rising up from the tip of the cap. As the coil on the sides of the cap are encased in glass & do not directly make contact with the sides of the cap, I'm sure the radiant heat that's being emitted from the side coils through the glass is also radiantly/conductively heating the sides of the cap. Not eloquently stated, & if I'm wrong, I'm sure you will correct me. :p

There's not such a thing as radiated heat from an induction heater .
Coils remain at low temperature.All the heating takes place INSIDE (or should I say "within" ? )
the part that is placed into the induction heater.

"
The rapidly alternating magnetic field penetrates the object, generating electric currents inside the conductor called eddy currents. The eddy currents flowing through the resistance of the material heat it by Joule heating. In ferromagnetic (and ferrimagnetic) materials like iron, heat may also be generated by magnetic hysteresis losses. The frequency of current used depends on the object size, material type, coupling (between the work coil and the object to be heated) and the penetration depth.

An important feature of the induction heating process is that the heat is generated inside the object itself, instead of by an external heat source via heat conduction. Thus objects can be heated very rapidly. "

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_heating
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
No, that's not what he meant in layman's terms. What he said was that since induction heating is actually a magnetic process, that while the cap was heating, it's magnetic properties changed, thereby not heating as quickly as the tip of the cap, whose magnetic properties do not change as much. Now think about torch and cap properties, and you can deduce that the heating profile will be different. Essentially, the tip/clickers are behaving of their own accord, and the sidewalls of the cap need a few extra seconds of inductive energy to behave in the same manner that you are accustomed to with the torch.

One other quick way to correlate is to think of it as only heating near the tip, instead of further back, like we usually do with a torch. If you kept the flame only at the tip, you would have to heat longer to get equivalent results.

Also, the side coils emit no radiant heat, just magnetic waves. The ferrous materials in the cap radiate heat after converting the magnetic energy into heat energy. The only heat the entire circuit generates of its own accord is heat produced by inefficiencies in the the various energy conversion and delivery phases of the process.

I think you also have not understand fully what I'm suggesting.
The cap loses ( gradually ,with every use) it's high magnetic permeability PERMANENTLY while it is being used (heated ).
So while a brand new cap gets evenly heated inside an induction heater ,after some time of usage ,
only it's tip (bottom of the cap) will remain ferromagnetic (cause is never heated ) ,thus only the tip of the cap will be efficiently heated inside the induction heater .

(and that's another reason ,why one has to go past the click ... )
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
for my understanding it would be best to use a SS Tip with the induction heater because you can rely on the click, right ?

In this case it would be nice to see an adjustable SS tip in the future.

Actually a tip made of IRON or ordinary CARBON STEEL ,would have been ideal
for induction heating of a VApCap,
as those materials they do not lose their high magnetic permeability while being heated.
But they do rust easily.
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
The ferrous materials in the cap radiate heat after converting the magnetic energy into heat energy.
An important feature of the induction heating process is that the heat is generated inside the object itself, instead of by an external heat source via heat conduction. Thus objects can be heated very rapidly. "

So since heat is generated inside the object itself, it's just like microwaving, except that with induction, it's magnet waves that's the facilitator (for lack of a better word). Yes?
 

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
Holy shit there are some smart people here. I continue to learn from others how to continually improve my sessions with both flame and IH.

@szai I had never tamped other than to make sure flower wasn't spilling out. I did that today on the Silver Sliver, and had a lovely session using my PS. Also, since I was using the SS tip, @stardustsailor's suggestion I didn't heat it past the click (except for the first heating cycle), and then only to a count of 2 one thousand. I stopped just after the click on all subsequent heating cycles.

Tamping it down 2mm, which I still did lightly with little pressure, as well as reduced heating seemed to keep the taste better throughout the session, made it much easier to 'stir' mid session, and still allowed full extraction with no 'light' spots.

And I'm baked in the saddle again.
 

mucsusn

60 going on 20
So since heat is generated inside the object itself, it's just like microwaving, except that with induction, it's magnet waves that's the facilitator (for lack of a better word). Yes?

in essence, yes. And yes @stardustsailor I knew what you meant, was a little unclear. I've never used a new tip in an IH, will have to give it a go.
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
A final winter blast around our parts today. Significant other is off (teacher) so we get to hang out and drink good beer and celebrate her unexpected day off. Myself, I'm going for some barrel-aged specials today, along with some burls.......

jObcWbp.jpg


Cheers!

You crusty/lucky ole varmit of a sea dawg, you, where did you find the Goose Island Bourbon
Barrel stout; they flew off the shelves in my neck of the sticks!



:bowdown: SDS, Sir, you remind me of the many hours trying to keep up with the graduate instructors who were
effortlessly running a light speed marathon into the expanding multiverse...:o
 

mucsusn

60 going on 20
You crusty/lucky ole varmit of a sea dawg, you, where did you find the Goose Island Bourbon
Barrel stout; they flew off the shelves in my neck of the sticks!
Got two here in Nov., two more in Chicago at Christmas. After today only one left:huh: and I'll probably let that age into next winter. One of our local Whole Foods also had every variety on tap around Thanksgiving. Perfect for a cold snowy day at home with my vape family:cheers:

Modnote: Reply moved from quote tags
 
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mucsusn

60 going on 20
Didnt realize Food Hole had a beer lisense....

I believe Joe may have sent you an email about your truant tips.
For the frustrated buyers, only?
Thanks for the tip, indeed it was there.

And our local Food Hole is a beer freakin' mecca. With fantastic prices. And 36 taps on premises, where you are encouraged to "sip and shop". It's so civilized it's almost surreal. I imagine a day when a vape has the same place in our social lives.

And to keep this on topic, I have exposed, converted or supplied VC's to several dozen fellow travelers there. Some have stuck with their gifted M as something they use occasionally, others have gone down the rabbit hole with me. Beer and weed are symbiotic buds:haw:
 

mrb

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
yesterday i purchased a 2018 M for exclusive use with the DV IH whenever that arrives.

Haven't even tried to keep up with the last few pages of science, but I'm fairly sure the SS tip will be better suited to induction heating. And it will be nice to have a new shiny un-scorched dynavap to keep in the IH storage slot.

Will definitely have to get a Couple more of those circlips to add my 'small bowl size hack' to the M. Gave all of my first batch of clips to other M owners..
 

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
So...I've been using the Silver Sliver for most of my sessions, and I would really like the option to reduce the bowl size on the M tip. I've heard a few talk about c-clips and circlips. @stark1 & @mrb I've even seen them in a Google search. But which one and what size do I get? I'm not a handy guy. Could some one point me to the right size/type. I love my Nayshtyle M, but I'd love it even more if I could bring down the bowl size.

TIA
 

szai

Well-Known Member
So...I've been using the Silver Sliver for most of my sessions, and I would really like the option to reduce the bowl size on the M tip. I've heard a few talk about c-clips and circlips. @stark1 & @mrb I've even seen them in a Google search. But which one and what size do I get? I'm not a handy guy. Could some one point me to the right size/type. I love my Nayshtyle M, but I'd love it even more if I could bring down the bowl size.

TIA

You bring up another reason for an IH specific tip and cap. To allow space in the range for an in between tip. A plain steel tip with an IH specific cap.

I would order one right this minute were it announced!
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
Rocky’s has C-clips in size, take a tip and size them. You want one slightly larger than the inner diameter of the tip.

Home Depot should also have them; Lowe’s.

Any hardware store.


PS ideally you want to sandwich a screen between two clips, but one will work, in a pinch.
 

kuzko

Well-Known Member
I’ve been using a Pipes Jarhead for a few months now. I have noticed that I need to see keep the VC in the heater for a few seconds after the click but mine doesn’t have a problem heating the whole tip. My ABV is even all the way through. Maybe the Jarhead has a deeper coil?
 

szai

Well-Known Member
Rocky’s has C-clips in size, take a tip and size them. You want one slightly larger than the inner diameter of the tip.

Home Depot should also have them; Lowe’s.

Any hardware store.

What do you do with the c clip?


I’ve been using a Pipes Jarhead for a few months now. I have noticed that I need to see keep the VC in the heater for a few seconds after the click but mine doesn’t have a problem heating the whole tip. My ABV is even all the way through. Maybe the Jarhead has a deeper coil?


You still get even heating you just have to tamp about 2mm below the lip.
 
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