Dynavap VapCap

[Dejavu]

Induction coupling works on surfaces. The 'signal' never reaches the CCD.

so an induction heater does not heat up the flower at all either too then right? Just the closest metal and around on the same surface?

 

[Petetbay]

so an induction heater does not heat up the flower at all either too then right? Just the closest metal and around on the same surface?

Right. Only metals with strong magnetic properties, no ti, no copper, some steels.

 

[HyDrOpOnIc1987]

You should be able to clean them with iso and they technically should last forever. unless you're just losing them a lot because.. it happens

mine tend to bounce around AND when strightening it out (have one '18 tip that seems to be a slightly smaller fit) they can sometimes rip from the edge into the center. so im definitely thinking of grabbing some plain 3/8" SS mesh screens. i have 5 glass screens that fit but fall out when debowling, they work well but are annoying when they fall out lol

I'll be grabbing some spare orings (have one, only one, artisan stem and it seems to be slightly sharp along the edge and it cuts into the orings) and probably will grab some FKM and silicone just to be on the safe side broke till payday lol lucky i have multiples now hahaha

 

[JJ785]

I grabbed two packs of 30 x 9.5mm (3/8") of the Sourcing Map screens from amazon UK. Measuring confims they true to size (9.5mm). I've so far tried inserting them into a recently purchased five fin Ti and also a 2020M tip. Wth both, they seem to be slightly too big and become quite concave. It becomes quite hard to get them into a half bowl position (full bowl is easier) but you eventually succeed after several minutes, but without being completely uniform in shape around the inner circumference of the tip, due to the concave shape.

I use a standard dynavap condensor to adjust the screens but I may, in due course, pick up a three-pack of Storz & Bickel cleaning brushes which I read somewhere fit inside the tips very well. Would they be better than using metal condensors for the purposes of adjusting screens?

A little disappointed with the 9.5mm screens fitwise but they are still usable -)

Sourcing map 9.5mm ss screens

 

[Dejavu]

Right. Only metals with strong magnetic properties, no ti, no copper, some steels.

I saw a stream of the new M+ tip, being able to torched near the bottom that pours out vapor. Is that tip that good because my ti and ss tips when rotating on small single flame torch at the bottom, cannot replicate the 1 hit extraction with vapor pouring out while heating.

I know that 9fin is suppose to be great but haven't heard the new M+ tip vs ti tips

 

[coolbreeze]

Spring has sprung, take your M for a walk!

 

[Notcoded419]

I saw a stream of the new M+ tip, being able to torched near the bottom that pours out vapor. Is that tip that good because my ti and ss tips when rotating on small single flame torch at the bottom, cannot replicate the 1 hit extraction with vapor pouring out while heating.

I know that 9fin is suppose to be great but haven't heard the new M+ tip vs ti tips

I'm intrigued by the M+ as well. Don't know if that's for real, but I've seen the leaking vapor with the Wand and sometimes the FMJ. Those hits are no joke!

 

[coolbreeze]

I saw a stream of the new M+ tip, being able to torched near the bottom that pours out vapor. Is that tip that good because my ti and ss tips when rotating on small single flame torch at the bottom, cannot replicate the 1 hit extraction with vapor pouring out while heating.

I know that 9fin is suppose to be great but haven't heard the new M+ tip vs ti tips

I don't know about pouring vapor, but the M+ seems hotter, more constricted, and more productive than the 21 M tips. Heating slowly at the nubs produces gobs of vapor. With the AC heated slowly it gets really productive and if you're careful, very, very tasty. If you preheat at the dots and then do a normal heating with or without the AC you can probably do a one-hit bowl, it would take a little practice maybe. It is a great bowl for the Vong.

 

[Dejavu]

I don't know about pouring vapor, but the M+ seems hotter, more constricted, and more productive than the 21 M tips. Heating slowly at the nubs produces gobs of vapor. With the AC heated slowly it gets really productive and if you're careful, very, very tasty. If you preheat at the dots and then do a normal heating with or without the AC you can probably do a one-hit bowl, it would take a little practice maybe. It is a great bowl for the Vong.

yep and why the vong? what is really that different other than it can fit on 14mm joints?...do you prefer open air port on stem/bongs or fully closed if the vapor doesn't get hot?...

also what about grind? fine/med/corse? Is it better to lower the screen and pack it loose or raise it and pack it tighter, using the same amount of material.

I want a 9fin but that m+ bowl seems to be pretty strong with that right technique(idk about IH use)...I'm just going to wait and see what happens. I think J-hooks are my go to for just about everything vapor[except for using my dyna unless using the vong and I just go fully closed].

Also, earlier I randomly decided to put a 14 to 10mm reducer that doesn't just drop down, it extends....using it like a mouthpiece makes a big difference in cooling too! Still new to dynavap.

I know the MVS has an auto-flutter option, which I don't understand all too much since I don't understand the mechanics behind the dynavap that much.... Like on a flowerpot, slow inhales = hotter convection but on a dyna I heard that holding the air port down = roast faster. I usually like to use an induction heater, aiming for 2 hit extraction to a dark roast. I see some say hitting it slower works better but when I hit it hard, it seems to give bigger clouds than slow constant at the same speed inhales.

 

[coolbreeze]

yep and why the vong? what is really that different other than it can fit on 14mm joints?...do you prefer open air port on stem/bongs or fully closed if the vapor doesn't get hot?...

I feel that the Vong bowl is scorch-prone but the M bowl makes a fine replacement: better flavor, big hits great for water. The M+ is more aggressive than the 21 M, so again, good for water. I like the '21's airflow a lot better, though. I usually use it mostly but not entirely closed thru water (still need a little airflow), and yes, it's because of the 14mm joint that I've put them together: the voluminous vapor production is ideal for water or whichever extra cooling you prefer.

also what about grind? fine/med/corse? Is it better to lower the screen and pack it loose or raise it and pack it tighter, using the same amount of material.

I go medium grind, straw pack, light tamp. I'm not sure about your second question, I use the full bowl mostly but I have a couple dedicated half-bowl tips. Packing it looser seems to work fine, as well.

I want a 9fin but that m+ bowl seems to be pretty strong with that right technique(idk about IH use)...I'm just going to wait and see what happens. I think J-hooks are my go to for just about everything vapor[except for using my dyna unless using the vong and I just go fully closed].

The M+ bowl is pretty flexible and I think it produces very well. I haven't tried the 9-fin yet but I hear great things. It is twice the price, fwiw.

Also, earlier I randomly decided to put a 14 to 10mm reducer that doesn't just drop down, it extends....using it like a mouthpiece makes a big difference in cooling too! Still new to dynavap.

Great solution. The standard joint opens it up to a world of possibilities.

I know the MVS has an auto-flutter option, which I don't understand all too much since I don't understand the mechanics behind the dynavap that much.... Like on a flowerpot, slow inhales = hotter convection but on a dyna I heard that holding the air port down = roast faster. I usually like to use an induction heater, aiming for 2 hit extraction to a dark roast.

I think it's the increase in density that people are after, but pulling air through the tip alone cools the herbs, the tip, and the cap faster, leading to less actual production, but less dilution too.

I see some say hitting it slower works better but when I hit it hard, it seems to give bigger clouds than slow constant at the same speed inhales.

Your observation is well supported. I mostly hit it hard, airport open and get huge hits but slower can be cooler. I don't use the airport much at all, except for that last whispy hit I'm trying to squeeze out. George explains:

 

[Dejavu]

I feel that the Vong bowl is scorch-prone but the M bowl makes a fine replacement: better flavor, big hits great for water. The M+ is more aggressive than the 21 M, so again, good for water. I like the '21's airflow a lot better, though. I usually use it mostly but not entirely closed thru water (still need a little airflow), and yes, it's because of the 14mm joint that I've put them together: the voluminous vapor production is ideal for water or whichever extra cooling you prefer.

I go medium grind, straw pack, light tamp. I'm not sure about your second question, I use the full bowl mostly but I have a couple dedicated half-bowl tips. Packing it looser seems to work fine, as well.

The M+ bowl is pretty flexible and I think it produces very well. I haven't tried the 9-fin yet but I hear great things. It is twice the price, fwiw.

Great solution. The standard joint opens it up to a world of possibilities.


I think it's the increase in density that people are after, but pulling air through the tip alone cools the herbs, the tip, and the cap faster, leading to less actual production, but less dilution too.

Your observation is well supported. I mostly hit it hard, airport open and get huge hits but slower can be cooler. I don't use the airport much at all, except for that last whispy hit I'm trying to squeeze out. George explains:

Can I ask is the vape signature just different when hitting it open vs closed? I know closed = hotter but what if I use a jhook or something, would hitting it closed full time worth it, if I have a stem that can handle it? well I just watched the video, so it is meant to be hit hard and mostly wide open......so even when using glass, do the same technique?

or does rocking/flutter on mvs give a better experience? I was assuming that maybe not holding your breath long and getting oxygen while hitting it, can make me feel weird after taking a super long fast hit lol(better than trying to hold my breath and sucking for 20-30 seconds). I go to the flowerpot and hit a .07g bowls and it is gone in 4 seconds, I am having a hard time which one is giving a better microdose signature.

I can get the same results on a flowerpot, i use the wand on my dynavaps and use to aim for 1 hit extraction on a bong every time but now I just use the stem and adjusted the height on the sk insert to get 2 hits, resulting in super dark avb after, even darker than my flowerpot sometimes.

 

[coolbreeze]

Can I ask is the vape signature just different when hitting it open vs closed? I know closed = hotter but what if I use a jhook or something, would hitting it closed full time worth it, if I have a stem that can handle it? well I just watched the video, so it is meant to be hit hard and mostly wide open......so even when using glass, do the same technique?

I'd play around a bit and see what you like, but generally speaking the un-carbed WPAs I have for DVs are very constricted because the only air coming through is what comes through the cap. In certain pieces that works fine but for the most part it's too tight for me. So the issue for me is mostly airflow, but others prefer a closed tube like that because the water (or space/glass if you're using it dry) cools well enough without the dilution the open airport brings. So, I try for balance: as little additional dilution as possible, but with enough airflow to be comfortable. It's possible that the bit of airflow adds to production, a la George's video.

or does rocking/flutter on mvs give a better experience? I was assuming that maybe not holding your breath long and getting oxygen while hitting it, can make me feel weird after taking a super long fast hit lol(better than trying to hold my breath and sucking for 20-30 seconds). I go to the flowerpot and hit a .07g bowls and it is gone in 4 seconds, I am having a hard time which one is giving a better microdose signature.

Sounds like some experimentation is in order. ; )

I can get the same results on a flowerpot, i use the wand on my dynavaps and use to aim for 1 hit extraction on a bong every time but now I just use the stem and adjusted the height on the sk insert to get 2 hits, resulting in super dark avb after, even darker than my flowerpot sometimes.

I like that it's adjustable for however you want to use it; between parts and technique most people should be able to find something they like.

 

[Notcoded419]

After all this discussion on the M+ tip, does anyone have thoughts on the stem? I've finally found contentment with my glass charlie stem and have been considering something more durable for a backup. I didn't mind the stock 21 stem that got me started down this road, but the triangular shape was always kind of awkward to me. I liked the 18 better when that came out of the vault, but it was so smooth and round, it led to too much rolling and dropping. I'm thinking the M+ textured stem with the rocker on the back might be the solution I never knew I wanted. I'm not worried about cooling enough to drop an additional $100 on a revolve or simrell.

 

[Hookahhead_MD]

Spring has sprung, take your M for a walk!

Absolutely beautiful photo of Kalmia Latifolia, Mountain Laurel. The state flower of Pennsylvania and Connecticut!

 

[coolbreeze]

Summer's here!

 

[nicknobody]

Hello so I recently got a dynavap M, Ive been using it and I decided to clean it I took it all apart and put it together but my tip won't stay put like it used to. It pops off the stem whenever I go to take my cap off.

I've re adjusted the i rings stil having the issue. I didn't clean the rings in iso. I also just have the basics I don't have any wax or extras. Did I assemble it wrong? I even followed some videos?

Any tips.

Thank you,

Check out simrell oring kit. It has regular to thick juicy orings of the “same size” for exact stem fitment

Hard ones for tight fit and soft juicy ones for loose fit

$15usd for 30 count pack!

 

[Ghosts]

Im really stuck between FMJ or Armored cap,

ive read that FMJ has health risks and other one doesnt work well with Ti tips...

 

[coolbreeze]

Im really stuck between FMJ or Armored cap,

ive read that FMJ has health risks and other one doesnt work well with Ti tips...

The health risks are probably overstated but there are also stainless, gold and silver bands out there. For the FMJ at least, you'd want a dedicated cap as it's a real pain to get it on and off the cap, and it has to be captive since the sleeve forces the cap to round, and the indents are needed to hold the hot slug of metal onto your DV.

In my experience the Omni and Vong tips work fine with both caps, but it is a challenge to get them on and off the tip. I think all the heavy caps give the 'best' results on the standard Ti tip, if what you are trying to achieve is a one-hit roast. The caps also screw right onto and off the standard Ti tip. On the M tips you get a lighter roast at the clicks with either the FMJ or the AC but great flavor.

 

[Monk Debate]

Are there any third party stems with especially open airflow? I was using my Hydravong last night and I was really struck by how restricted the airflow is. Or is this just the nature of an 8mm device?

 

[Dustin McKief]

Are there any third party stems with especially open airflow? I was using my Hydravong last night and I was really struck by how restricted the airflow is. Or is this just the nature of an 8mm device?

Make sure that you're not tamping too tight. I do a straw pack or a gentle dip into a medium grind and then I brush it off until there's at least ~1mm of airspace.

Also, the tip's design can affect airflow. Hold your tip's open end against a flat surface with some light behind it. The flat surface simulates the cap, and you can see the air openings and compare.

 

[coolbreeze]

Are there any third party stems with especially open airflow? I was using my Hydravong last night and I was really struck by how restricted the airflow is. Or is this just the nature of an 8mm device?

To some degree it's the nature of the device, but I think it's primarily the shape of the end of the tip. The 21M and Vong tips are the 'loosest' because the teeth on the tip crown create air gaps into the bowl. The looseness of the cap also matters: the new tip has little in the way of air channels and feels tighter to me as a result. Using them native masks the tightness to some degree but put it in a pipe and it's more noticeable. If this is the source of your concern, try another waterpipe: some work great with DVs and some just don't because of the constricted hit.

In terms of the stems themselves, any glass stem along the lines of the BBs will have better airflow than anything with a condenser, but again, the cap/tip will be the main constriction point.

 

[Monk Debate]

To some degree it's the nature of the device, but I think it's primarily the shape of the end of the tip. The 21M and Vong tips are the 'loosest' because the teeth on the tip crown create air gaps into the bowl. The looseness of the cap also matters: the new tip has little in the way of air channels and feels tighter to me as a result. Using them native masks the tightness to some degree but put it in a pipe and it's more noticeable. If this is the source of your concern, try another waterpipe: some work great with DVs and some just don't because of the constricted hit.

In terms of the stems themselves, any glass stem along the lines of the BBs will have better airflow than anything with a condenser, but again, the cap/tip will be the main constriction point.

Thanks, I do exclusively use Ti tips and I know what you meant about the teeth on the tip. Maybe I need to get a custom purpose WPA instead of a Hydravong stem which has a condenser but also can be used as a WPA, and then check the cap fit and reduce my bowl pack as @stoic mentioned.

 

[coolbreeze]

Thanks, I do exclusively use Ti tips and I know what you meant about the teeth on the tip. Maybe I need to get a custom purpose WPA instead of a Hydravong stem which has a condenser but also can be used as a WPA, and then check the cap fit and reduce my bowl pack as @stoic mentioned.

Back in the day people use to file notches into their 18M tips...

 

[Monk Debate]

Back in the day people use to file notches into their 18M tips...

I bought a 2018 M and then almost immediately bought a Ti tip and never went back to the stainless. I did upgrade the body to the 2019 M but kept the Ti tip. All that being said, I'm very tempted to try the M Plus tip.

Here's another thought with the Hydravong to increase airflow...could I just use it as a WPA without the condenser? Or would that cause problems?

 

[coolbreeze]

I bought a 2018 M and then almost immediately bought a Ti tip and never went back to the stainless. I did upgrade the body to the 2019 M but kept the Ti tip. All that being said, I'm very tempted to try the M Plus tip.

I like it, despite it being sort of aggressive for my tastes. It is more constricted but not bad.

Here's another thought with the Hydravong to increase airflow...could I just use it as a WPA without the condenser? Or would that cause problems?

Absolutely! It will work fine without the condenser, but more reclaim may accumulate on the interior. Simple wipe with a damp q-tip will take care of that though.