Dynavap VapCap

[stark1]

My bet is that DV will eventually introduce/fabricate a CC calibrated to work well
With an IH. Given the variances in tip design, it may be a tricky challenge.

There seems to be two camps developing, the butane burners, and the mag heater loop.
Interesting bifurcation, in DV use. YMMV

Our simple VapCaps just got a bit complicated.
I like my old glass OG. Pure. And Simple.

Ahhh. Dem were the good old daze.
Pre-TEDs.


l

 

[StringTheorista]

@condition maybe try squeezing digger-outer and opposite sides together (as for a regular cap), taking the captive bumps out of the equation altogether? That worked for me (though I also flattened the bumps with a needlenose pliers).

@stark, I joined the dynaverse with the 17M—the glass ones were still findable, and the glass condensers were still on the site, but I didn’t know just how good they were, and went for durability. Alas...

 

[someTooL]

Tips, caps, and IH’s...let’s get back to what’s important. The screen mechanism...needs improvement.

Sorry, last night was cleaning night. Putting the screen in the middle position is the worst headache ever. I’ve happily used a DV for almost 2 years daily...and despise this procedure.

 

[Greenleaf88]

I haven't cleaned my 21 omni yet, but everyone's getting me worried struggling to put the ccd back can't you use the omni mouth piece to push it in to the desired place like the old ones?

 

[Smokey McVape]

I haven't cleaned my 21 omni yet, but everyone's getting me worried struggling to put the ccd back can't you use the omni mouth piece to push it in to the desired place like the old ones?

Yes you can use the Omni condenser like the old ones. Placing CCD's is simple once you spend some time practicing the technique. Sounds like most people tend to use too much force to me.

 

[thunderstealer1337]

The ti ccd shrink over time and it's nearly impossible for them to sit on the middle ledge, like 50% of my ti tips the ccd is just shoved all the way down, and yes I take them out and flatten as much as possible - only helps the first few times

 

[someTooL]

Force is not the issue. CCDs shrink and cannot find the grooves in the tip. Just saying it’s an avenue for improvement.

 

[jbm]

CCDs shrink and cannot find the grooves in the tip.

Interesting. What causes them to shrink?

 

[someTooL]

Repeated heating cycles. It’s just a maintenance issue. Have a few extra and you’re good for years. Well, unless you’re too forceful

 

[vandalizedbythelotus]

Tips, caps, and IH’s...let’s get back to what’s important. The screen mechanism...needs improvement.

Sorry, last night was cleaning night. Putting the screen in the middle position is the worst headache ever. I’ve happily used a DV for almost 2 years daily...and despise this procedure.

i find mesh screens (if they are the correct size) are much easier to put in place and remove. i think it's because it has tiny surface area contact points instead of the larger line ends of the current CCD design which makes tolerance and any sort of distortion much more of an issue. IMO the CCD design is very well suited for a fixed application like on top of the woodscents heater but because it's so rigid, it's a real pain to adjust often, as is required for cleaning on the other side of the plant material.

perhaps it could be improved just by modifying the outer edge design of the CCD a bit to be slightly pointy, sort of like how end fin is on the new TI tips.

Repeated heating cycles

used to think so too but apparently they get compressed/deformed from adjusting. it's noticeable in a zoomed photo i can't provide somewhat. basically you can see the center opening gets smaller in diameter, which no amount of flattening can fix.

edit: added a bit of reinforcement in the center too.

 

[ArthurJ]

I hadn't originally intended to order any of this year's new dynavap products. I fall in and out of using my vapcaps. I tend to use them at home, I prefer a battery-operated device when I'm out and about.
When I'm home, I tend to favor a log vape, enano or woodscents, so the caps fall out of rotation from time to time. A couple of months ago I started favoring my woodscents and that brought me back to the caps and I've enjoying with a single torch of late. I'd been in an "enjoy what you have you don't need more" type of head, so I had no desire to venture into this years models. Then, lo and behold, the last day of pre-sale hits, NY goes legal and I figure, "hey I should mark the occasion with something special and hey that mega-pack looks like quite the attractive deal." In the blink of an eye, ladies and gentlemen, the VAS rose up from the weeds and grabbed a hold of me.

They arrived yesterday, nothing better than new toys arriving on a Friday afternoon:



I originally came to vapcaps because I was attracted by the secondary market in stems and stuff, they've always been little art objects for me, so I got the new batch engraved with "ars longa"



They sent me a couple bonus '20Ms and an extra dynastasher, this paudak with tree engraving piece that I absolutely love:



Once upon time I bought that carbon-body omnivap, I told myself, "I'll just buy one really nice one, I won't go crazy with it." I'm not a real stickler for performance variations, for me they're mostly all good.
For me it's the aesthetic of what I like holding. I like a little more length, a long piece is easier to twirl in the hand.
I like the new omnivap quite a lot, a nice weight and balance in the hand and easy to spin.


So here's my little at home vaping station with most of my collection. When I decide "to play vapcaps" I like to take out a bunch of pieces, load a little bit in each, and rotate through. There are a few pieces I keep capless for use with the woodscents. Sometimes, I'll tap a cap off and use a piece with the woodscents, just because. The new omnivap pairs perfectly with the woodscents. The vong however doesn't. The omnivap also pairs really well with glass if you have that rubbery black adapter.



I have had mixed results with the captive cap. For me, the '20M was unusable because the cap kept slipping off. In fact, I recently took it out to see if it was as bed as I remembered and the cap instantly slipped off and rolled away, so much for that. I find in general that caps are looser on the stainless tips then on the ti tips. I have several different M's that I rarely use because of loose tips. On the other hand, I bought two ti-tips with captive caps last year for a pair of stems I'd bought and those work great, never a problem and I kind of like that I feel a little grip on the tip, I really feel like it's secure. With this years models, the vong and omni, the caps are great. The M, better than lasts years, but it slipped off once while using. So That's my experience, I like it on my ti tips where it seems to work fine.

 

[Stonedbadger]

Im loving my 2021 Omni, Im using mine with the Flux Deluxe IH. I think I might like it more the the Simrell, but it is close

 

[TommyDee]

@condition - My first and last captive cap was able to remove the captive function by squeezing the other direction and going back to a conventional slip-fit. This allowed my magnets to pull the cap off instead of catching on every ledge of the '20 SS tip.

 

[thunderstealer1337]

You can also put a wooden dowel pin/chopstick and push the indents outwards from inside.

This will improve airflow overall to the captive caps for those who think those indents rob airflow and make them slide on/off without catching.

 

[Skinku]

I’m fed up with losing my overpriced DynaScreens when I clear the chamber.
Pfffffftttt ding, there goes another two quid, bastards.
I’m using bog standard 10mm steel screens domed over a pen in most of my tips now, airflow, maintainance and costs improved.
I might order 9.5mm screens and see how they fare, why not?
Happy Skinku.

 

[Texus]

Im loving my 2021 Omni, Im using mine with the Flux Deluxe IH. I think I might like it more the the Simrell, but it is close

Would love to hear more about that comparison of the Omni 2021 and the Simrell. What are the strengths/downsides of each in your opinion?

 

[DonMarteng]

The Simrell is great if you cant take big hits out of a normal DV but want to.
An Omni is great if you want to leave the airport in your favourite setting and never touch it again.
I also feel the Omni or the DVs in general deliver more punch, but I like the Vortex too, its just a different experience.
What are you looking for?
Big fat cloudy heavy tasty hits with a potential to cough - Omni
Big fat cloudy hits with less punch and less force on the throat - Vortex
The MVS might be the best of both worlds, you can always remove the Vortex and have a normal Omni.
I tend to use my new Omni all the time and the Vortex every now and then to spice things up.

Now I have used DVs for 3-4 years and have not lost a single screen or had any of them shrink. I use both types and usually just straighten them out every time before putting them back in. You can use the other side of a brush for that. All my screens in all my tips (10+) fit exactly in the position I want them and some of them have been a half bowl for years.
I recommend the SS screens over the Ti because they fit a bit tighter and its a bit easier to get them into the ridges without deforming them.
But both are absolutely ok to work with once you get the hang of it.

 

[Md_Hybrid]

I finally tried out my 2021 "m". It performed okay as-is, but the bud would only get light brown before it would stop producing vapor. Then I tried it with my old captive cap, which is oval and no longer captive. Talk about a difference! It hits like a truck now and the bud turns dark brown, almost black. From my albeit limited experience you really want your cap to be as tight as possible to ensure maximum heat transfer, though as always YMMV.

 

[DonMarteng]

You may get similar results with overheating the Captive caps for a second or two.
But overall I have the same experience.
But the effects are what matters and my Omni gets me where I need to be with a "normal" brown Avb!

 

[ClearBlueLou]

The ti ccd shrink over time and it's nearly impossible for them to sit on the middle ledge, like 50% of my ti tips the ccd is just shoved all the way down, and yes I take them out and flatten as much as possible - only helps the first few times

Force is not the issue. CCDs shrink and cannot find the grooves in the tip. Just saying it’s an avenue for improvement.

Repeated heating cycles. It’s just a maintenance issue. Have a few extra and you’re good for years. Well, unless you’re too forceful

I’m fed up with losing my overpriced DynaScreens when I clear the chamber.
Pfffffftttt ding, there goes another two quid, bastards.
I’m using bog standard 10mm steel screens domed over a pen in most of my tips now, airflow, maintainance and costs improved.
I might order 9.5mm screens and see how they fare, why not?
Happy Skinku.

FIRST time I hearing any of this: in four years I’ve never had a CCD ‘shrink’, never read or heard a report of such a thing. OTOH, CCDs are tricky to install, require patience and practice, AND ARE EASY TO BEND DURING INSTALLATION.

The CCD in my ‘17 Omni has been in place for more than three years: it’s never shrunk, come loose, rattled around, or done anything else that would support the idea that they shrink. My ‘17 M has never had the CCD messed with: if it had shrunk after years of use, it’d have come loose inside the bowl by now, but nothing. Still tight in place: not possible if ‘repeated heating’ caused the metal of the CCD to ‘shrink ‘ to where it could no longer ‘catch the groove’. If true, the things would just turn loose.

The easiest way to FAIL at installing a CCD is literally going at it wrong: if you’re trying to drop a CCD down into an up-facing bowl, you’ll probably crap up your new CCD instead of installing it. An intensely frustrating experience. Almost as easy a way to fail is to use a ‘setting tool’ that isn’t (nearly) as wide as the bowl itself: the CCD needs to GO IN FLAT, as in *level*; it needs to grab THE ENTIRE GROOVE AT ONCE, not just a bit of it. That means the CCD needs to be *supported* during insertion, not just poked at.

George’s original vid on setting a CCD used the cap of a Bic Stik pen to accomplish this; Doc’s machine-screw/depth-gauge technique is a refinement of that. If you haven’t watched that vid of George, you should watch it several times, then try it with the vid. If you have watched it, go watch it a few more times. Details matter.

I failed to find the vid I was mentioning, but here’s one about how to do it all with just the condenser, which is a different approach, but effective enough:

If you’re *LOSING* CCDs when clearing your bowl, then your CCD IS NOT EVEN INSTALLED. You really need to go watch that video.

gosh, I sound awful stern....

 

[TommyDee]

I can slip my CCD's in reversed and they don't blow out. I do have a Ti tip that has a taper to the bowl. It goes in concave but sits flat in the bottom. I don't use the Ti CCDs because they do deform when removed on over-centering. This deformation is what is effectively referred to as 'shrinking' the overall outside diameter. Not necessarily the metal shrinking, which of course is absurd in this case.

 

[ClearBlueLou]

A hammer works splendidly to flatten a bent CCD.
Simple and quick - just don’t get carried away by your Hulk self

 

[whatitdew]

After cleaning
take a mallet or something similar
hit that ccd a few times till she is flat!
now try putting the ccd back in

almost every time I clean the ti ccd, it’s always lose a bit in the chamber until the resin makes it stick a bit
if I hammer it back flat first, it usually sticks in place

the stainless ccd never have this problem

 

[RustyOldNail]

FIRST time I hearing any of this: in four years I’ve never had a CCD ‘shrink’, never read or heard a report of such a thing. OTOH, CCDs are tricky to install, require patience and practice, AND ARE EASY TO BEND DURING INSTALLATION.

The CCD in my ‘17 Omni has been in place for more than three years: it’s never shrunk, come loose, rattled around, or done anything else that would support the idea that they shrink. My ‘17 M has never had the CCD messed with: if it had shrunk after years of use, it’d have come loose inside the bowl by now, but nothing. Still tight in place: not possible if ‘repeated heating’ caused the metal of the CCD to ‘shrink ‘ to where it could no longer ‘catch the groove’. If true, the things would just turn loose.

The easiest way to FAIL at installing a CCD is literally going at it wrong: if you’re trying to drop a CCD down into an up-facing bowl, you’ll probably crap up your new CCD instead of installing it. An intensely frustrating experience. Almost as easy a way to fail is to use a ‘setting tool’ that isn’t (nearly) as wide as the bowl itself: the CCD needs to GO IN FLAT, as in *level*; it needs to grab THE ENTIRE GROOVE AT ONCE, not just a bit of it. That means the CCD needs to be *supported* during insertion, not just poked at.

George’s original vid on setting a CCD used the cap of a Bic Stik pen to accomplish this; Doc’s machine-screw/depth-gauge technique is a refinement of that. If you haven’t watched that vid of George, you should watch it several times, then try it with the vid. If you have watched it, go watch it a few more times. Details matter.

I failed to find the vid I was mentioning, but here’s one about how to do it all with just the condenser, which is a different approach, but effective enough:

If you’re *LOSING* CCDs when clearing your bowl, then your CCD IS NOT EVEN INSTALLED. You really need to go watch that video.

gosh, I sound awful stern....

Oh SNAP! Josh really needs a haircut....

 

[TommyDee]

Its not that the shrinking CCD is not flat, the members that hold the outside radius have collapsed from the over-centering action on removal. Hammering the CCD will affect some change but never to the original state.