RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
“Collapsing members”, there is a temporary cure for that:
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Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
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“Collapsing members”, there is a temporary cure for that:
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
No one is fucking around with my member. 
Except my wife. 
I stopped removing the CCDs unless absolutely necessary. The little tacoing bastards are a pain in the ass. I'm sure it's not the best cleaning, but I soak the tip in iso then use a qtip to have at it on both sides of the CCD. Rinse and done. If there is some reclaim left in the edges well too bad for me, there's already a ton of reclaim lining my unlined wood stem. I also don't have to clean junked up abv since I only vape concentrates through my setups.
I never really understood the purpose of making the heating chamber smaller. If you want to use a smaller amount, what is wrong with just putting less in the full chamber? I would think the extra space would even help with uniform heating.
BTW @DDave sells mesh screens to use in place of a CCD. They work pretty well too.
Except my wife. I stopped removing the CCDs unless absolutely necessary. The little tacoing bastards are a pain in the ass. I'm sure it's not the best cleaning, but I soak the tip in iso then use a qtip to have at it on both sides of the CCD. Rinse and done. If there is some reclaim left in the edges well too bad for me, there's already a ton of reclaim lining my unlined wood stem. I also don't have to clean junked up abv since I only vape concentrates through my setups.
I never really understood the purpose of making the heating chamber smaller. If you want to use a smaller amount, what is wrong with just putting less in the full chamber? I would think the extra space would even help with uniform heating.
BTW @DDave sells mesh screens to use in place of a CCD. They work pretty well too.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
No one is fucking around with my member.
I stopped removing the CCDs unless absolutely necessary. The little tacoing bastards are a pain in the ass. I'm sure it's not the best cleaning, but I soak the tip in iso then use a qtip to have at it on both sides of the CCD. Rinse and done. If there is some reclaim left in the edges well too bad for me, there's already a ton of reclaim lining my unlined wood stem. I also don't have to clean junked up abv since I only vape concentrates through my setups.
I never really understood the purpose of making the heating chamber smaller. If you want to use a smaller amount, what is wrong with just putting less in the full chamber? I would think the extra space would even help with uniform heating.
BTW @DDave sells mesh screens to use in place of a CCD. They work pretty well too.
Agreed, I rarely ever need to do a super soak deep clean, since like you, I simply use a Qtip with ISO, hold the tip down so any extra ISO does not go into the stem. Often I use another one, at the same time through the MP end. This way I can add pressure on the cap from the tip end, and get a nice clean on the UNDERSIDE of the CCD, and keep it from popping out, and of course this qtip gets the inner stem clean. May NOT be applicable with all models.
Using 99% ISO, will evaporator quickly, but if I change my mind and want another session, I do a no load IH heat cycle.
I too have not bothered with moving the CCD level, as the average DV cap load is good for me. But with all this talk, I tried moving my 2020m SS CCD yesterday. Obviously, brand news ones usually click right in, but seasoned CCD’s are a BITCH, even with my tools. Pounded it as flat as I could a few times. Gave up a few times, but finally got it to the 50% 1/2 load setting. And you know what, I may just keep this one at the 1/2 bowl, as it was a good quick hit from my IH. All my other stems with their Ti tips will remain full bowl, but the SS 1/2 bowl is a nice change up.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I usually leave my CCDs in place and I clean with ISO and Q tips. If I want a different size load I switch to a tip set that way so my CCDs rarely move. I always thought that the CCD shrinking was caused by cleaning them in a flame as I don't do that and I really don't experience the problem.
DonMarteng
Well-Known Member
I use the reducer only with my Flite since I feel like getting the same 4 hits out of half a chamber as 5 not as tasty hits from a full chamber.
You save a lot and if you need more you can always pack 2 halfs.
With a lighter I prefer going full chamber!
You save a lot and if you need more you can always pack 2 halfs.
With a lighter I prefer going full chamber!
hinglemccringleberry
Well-Known Member
Always reppin' DV
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Slicker than snot on a doorknob.
Is the dowel made from flowering quince also?
These CCD's are still better than those round ceramic screens with the holes. It was fucking with those damn spring clips and getting them to settle in that fucking grove. And you would think you had it seated, only to push on it and the fucking thing would fall out again.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Seems like with accurate measurements, someone smart could share a “makerbot” file. It’s so small, it would be very little material to make one. I’m sure many might know someone with a plastic printer, the have really come down in price.
Seen that video, great sharing it again.
Seen that video, great sharing it again.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Yes of course the inverters are FQ @BabyFacedFinster . 
Any 5/16" tube will work though.
I now have zero hesitation about removing the CCD except how to clean the backside. It does grow a film.
What are we making @RustyOldNail ? I have a few printers but not small stuff.
Any 5/16" tube will work though. I now have zero hesitation about removing the CCD except how to clean the backside. It does grow a film.
What are we making @RustyOldNail ? I have a few printers but not small stuff.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
Yes of course the inverters are FQ @BabyFacedFinster .
I now have zero hesitation about removing the CCD except how to clean the backside. It does grow a film.
What are we making @RustyOldNail ? I have a few printers but not small stuff.
With an accurate caliper, one could potentially recreate your CCD device in a 3D file, and anyone with one of those machines could make the same device.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Oh that would be a bad idea... I'd hate to vape a piece of chipped plastic.
Really, if you have some 5/16" hobby tubing you have a CCD inverter.
I hope someone provides these in some form. All that makes it work is the clearance to place the CCD upside down while pushing on the edges of the CCD.
Really, if you have some 5/16" hobby tubing you have a CCD inverter.
I hope someone provides these in some form. All that makes it work is the clearance to place the CCD upside down while pushing on the edges of the CCD.
Tommy so that's your little CCD tool Sweet
thanks for posting it
What do you think causes the dome? pushing the ccd out with a too small diameter tool? Ivdont know that my tool creats s dome eill have to check on that
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stark1
Lonesome Planet
You are re-living a segment (a nightmare?) in the history of DynaVap evolution, @BFF!
Those ceramic discs and the retaining C-clips were spin-offs from the old log
Vaporizer heaters. Remember those? They were actually easy peasy ( given that you had the proper
Size snap-ring pliers ) to install.
That phase of DV development soon passed with in-house CNC production.
Now we get to play with dowels and such ( condensers are handy ), trying toProperly seat some equally difficult mf tiny metal screens.
DV would make some user/owners happy by offering a SST ( Screen Seating Tool )
In their inventory:
For those who have to have everything DynaVap.
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vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
this is what "sealed the deal" on the small bowl setting for me. besides the efficiency aspect, i noticed screens don't really get dirty in this configuration, and spent herb just falls out when i want to dump it by gently tapping on the edge. still remove them for cleaning tho.Susurrus of satisfied pollos
con VC TEDs? Olé!
I almost never touch my screens, simply switch out tips ( being a microdoser helps ).
!
condition
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I will try that. From what I read the size between caps is the same. So the only difference between the two caps are the indents and now you have a standard cap after flattening the bumps?
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
Better he should stock some of @danielj 's tools and resell them. If @danielj agreed he could slap a DV label on them for "officialness". Some times its not necessary to reinvent the wheel.DV would make some user/owners happy by offering a SST ( Screen Seating Tool )
In their inventory:
For those who have to have everything DynaVap.
ClearBlueLou
unbearably light in the being....
The more I use this new Omni, the better I like it...so much so that I’ve really done no quantitative analysis. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, I get distracted by the seemingly endless hits off any given bowl...this is as much about how comfortable I am holding this thing. For years, I’ve put the things down after the cooldown clicks. Holding them felt awkward, one end being really hot ‘n’ all; IH helps, because you can stick it back in the coil to cool, and we have those magnets.
I catch myself holding the ‘21 Omni. It feels good to my fingers, it fits my hand in a way that’s completely new. I like the weight and the balance. As a result, I hit it more often, which is nice. I like everything about it, from a tactile POV: serious engineering has gone into the new stem. The extra length definitely helps. Gets in the way of counting heats and remembering to check the bowl, though....
I’m still unfamiliar with the new airflow design, but it seems that leaving the twin airports open results in a bigger impact from the hit - as if the new airflow acts as a turbocharger (Omni condenser set on ‘0’ as received). Based on the progress of material color thru successive heats, the ‘21 extracts better and faster, as if part of the new design is about more even and faster heating, not just ‘keeping things cool’. Closing the airports, OTOH, seems to actually preserve the material in the bowl better. I point back to the condition of a single bowl full, after 9 heats in a ’20 M, and then 4 heats in the new Omni: *all* of those heats and pulls were done with closed airports. In contrast, I’m refilling the bowl after 3-5 heats right now, based on visual inspection.
Re: captive caps - the most annoying thing about them is putting them back on.
Hope everyone is enjoying their hew toys!
Speaking of enjoying new toys...anyone want to splash us with pix of their heat-colored titanium babies?
I catch myself holding the ‘21 Omni. It feels good to my fingers, it fits my hand in a way that’s completely new. I like the weight and the balance. As a result, I hit it more often, which is nice. I like everything about it, from a tactile POV: serious engineering has gone into the new stem. The extra length definitely helps. Gets in the way of counting heats and remembering to check the bowl, though....
I’m still unfamiliar with the new airflow design, but it seems that leaving the twin airports open results in a bigger impact from the hit - as if the new airflow acts as a turbocharger (Omni condenser set on ‘0’ as received). Based on the progress of material color thru successive heats, the ‘21 extracts better and faster, as if part of the new design is about more even and faster heating, not just ‘keeping things cool’. Closing the airports, OTOH, seems to actually preserve the material in the bowl better. I point back to the condition of a single bowl full, after 9 heats in a ’20 M, and then 4 heats in the new Omni: *all* of those heats and pulls were done with closed airports. In contrast, I’m refilling the bowl after 3-5 heats right now, based on visual inspection.
Re: captive caps - the most annoying thing about them is putting them back on.
Hope everyone is enjoying their hew toys!
Speaking of enjoying new toys...anyone want to splash us with pix of their heat-colored titanium babies?
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StringTheorista
Well-Known Member
@ClearBlueLou I’ve also found the new omni seems to extract faster (with airport about halfway closed—gotta try fully open). Based on a very old video of George explaining how the air through the airport helps pull the vapor into the condenser from below the CCD, seems like the twisted condenser turbo charges that air through the airport, maybe making it pull vapor more strongly into the condenser
jbm
Well-Known Member
I saw a video recently where George said to try hitting the 21 Omni with a very hard draw with the airport wide open. I’ve been trying that and getting really good clouds, great flavor and really cool vapor. Full extraction.
TheThriftDrifter
Land of the long vapor cloud
The thing that puzzles me about the having the air port wide open (making max use of the condenser vortex wizardry) is that it makes the vapor harsh on my throat, even on the first couple of heat ups on a fresh bowl.
It's not for lack of trying this method, I just always gravitate towards mouthpull styles because I find it significantly less harsh.
Although oddly enough, airport wide open on a water piece isn't an issue.
Perhaps it boils down to the humidity of the hit.
It's not for lack of trying this method, I just always gravitate towards mouthpull styles because I find it significantly less harsh.
Although oddly enough, airport wide open on a water piece isn't an issue.
Perhaps it boils down to the humidity of the hit.
@cybrguy thanks so much for the wonderful endorsement. George was almost the first one to receive one of my tools. Dont know if he liked it, he did mention that he was surprised by the weight of it. I think my tool does great for insertion/removal and setting the bowl size
Since seeing @TommyDee niftty little tool for shaping and inserting a reversed domed ccd, his tool is the way to go in that regard. From what I read of his concept, a reverse dome adds greater airflow when the ccd is all the way back into the tip. Between the two tools, I think weve got a great approach.