Dynavap VapCap

stark1

stark1

Lonesome Planet
You should find a refinement in your (very different) experience then. :tup:

It would be good to get one with a fine form factor, as well as function.

VapCap + IH = New Ball Game :cheers::spliff:

Fire is fine, if you are into the primal primitive, and the mystique of ritual. :myday:
 
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stark1,
Vape_Or_Die420

Vape_Or_Die420

Well-Known Member
Anyone know where the specs are posted for glass blowers and woodworkers making stems? I would like to ask my local blower to make one for my 20M but i don't have an extra tip to loan him. Any recommendations?
 
Vape_Or_Die420,
Hawaiian

Hawaiian

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When i push a little more on the last toke it can be kinda smokey sometimes but material don't turn black, just dark brown. But still smokey smell (kinda like hash). Also there comes a little acidic taste. I wonder if there are really some combustion going on or i dunno.. maybe some trichomes sticks to the cap walls.
That got me high AF btw. :science:
 
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TommyDee

TommyDee

Vaporitor
There is a chart that says exactly that. Starting at around 380C, some smoke, combustion, is taking place. In the VapCap, this is mostly from a good conduction from the walls of the VC but the coal seems to begin in the center of the load. If I sense this level of heat, I wait and draw very slowly after a little bit of cool-down. This is an attempt to salvage the bake. Sometimes it can't be saved and you just gotta eject it. Once you get enough smoke, it kinda ruins the experience by leaving a pungent combustion after-taste.

Personally, I like getting it to that edge. But true combustion involves ash. Sustained embers in the presence of oxygen is the sure way to diagnose combustion.
 
kenske

kenske

Active Member
These girls arrived today. Once again I am a fan. For some reason, i've always been under the impression that this stem has a clear plastic mp. But to my suprise, the mp is actually ground glass! This is a single piece glass stem...Perfect. Feels great in hand and lips. I was am able to produce large cool delicious clouds of vapor. The BB9 will be traveling with me everywhere( along with a trusty, nearly indestructable M as a backup).:nod:
20200504-180411.jpg
20200504-180337.jpg
 
Mono Loco

Mono Loco

Well-Known Member
That's a nice long stem. It reminded me of an antenna ... or, a telescoping "map pointer" (pre-laser pointer days!) ... or a telescoping inspection mirror, or magnet-tipped retrieval wand (for bolts dropped into the engine compartment, whatever...). And, that made me curious: I wonder if anyone has made a telescoping stem? I think the pocket clip on the long stem got me thinking in that direction (someone sure has a deep pocket!!!)
 
stark1

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Mono Loco said:
That's a nice long stem. It reminded me of an antenna ... or, a telescoping "map pointer" (pre-laser pointer days!) ... or a telescoping inspection mirror, or magnet-tipped retrieval wand (for bolts dropped into the engine compartment, whatever...). And, that made me curious: I wonder if anyone has made a telescoping stem? I think the pocket clip on the long stem got me thinking in that direction (someone sure has a deep pocket!!!)
Click to expand...


That’s just to keep it from rolling over—have a few handy. Function over form.

The Ti tubing 10mm OD, 8mm ID is perfect for a few stems. Just don’t have the
Balls to cut it with my old (rusty) tube cutter. Just got the tubing from the slow boat yesterday.

Talk with PP, he had a few, way back when. Telescoping stems, and multi-headed menorahs.
 
Hawaiian

Hawaiian

...
Finaly got my Ed's TNT 45mm body with a titanium spinning mouthpiece, what a beauty.. will post a pic later.
But if i understood correctly, i need a ti condenser or just one more o-ring on the middle to fit it tightly, my 20M's condenser has only 2. So i've just moved the second one to the middle near the carb.
 
Hawaiian

Hawaiian

...
BabyFacedFinster said:
Going back to those charts. What temp range does a vc heat up to when you generally respect the click?
Click to expand...
I've found this explication:
Archaicrevival said:
I have tried to test temps of heat cycles with an ir thermometer, the cap clicks around 400°F, but the material inside seems to heat up in the following ways:

1st cycle around 325°F
2nd cycle around 360°F
3rd cycle around 380°F
4th cycle gets approximately 400-420°F(risking minor combustion and harsh taste)

Note: the temp drops rapidly however, after reaching these peaks. I wouldn't recommend touching the flame tip to the cap or going to heat cycle 4.
Click to expand...

Or you mean a .gif animated one ? :sherlock:
 
TommyDee

TommyDee

Vaporitor
BabyFacedFinster said:
Going back to those charts. What temp range does a vc heat up to when you generally respect the click?
Click to expand...

I am finding an interesting series of datapoints while playing with various home-made IH solutions. This isn't just about the click. The click is a lagging indicator highly dependent on a number of things. The click is essentially a relative indicator. In itself it is highly repeatable, yet the technique to get the clicker to temp says very little about how hot the rest of the structure is.

My findings are showing me that a very hot IH; 6-seconds to the click - will give you a good hot draw but short. Satisfying 1st draw. Browned on the top and blonde moist throughout the load. Hardly any conduction from the walls. Analogy - only the mass of the cap got hot; tip body remained coolish.

A slow-cooked bowl. As cells deplete, the portable IH performance changes. Neither better or worse, just changes the intensity of the heat. A very slowly cooked bowl is first of all, wasteful as vape is escaping. Yet, if you provide a small amount of draw, the escaping vape will be consumed instead. The slow heat soaks the tip as well as the cap. The draw maintains the temperature (in the best case). This method can vary from uneven heating on an aggressive cycle or very even heating on a slow session. This type of IH cooking is highly rewarding and open to personalized techniques. IH's really need good control to achieve this to a level of perfection. Not a technique for butane.

The standard roast - 12-15 seconds of a good power level IH is about right to get the cap hot and the tip hot enough to provide the needed conduction heat to assure an even bake. A proper mix of convection and conduction (and radiation from cap to tip) assures a good even bake with much less regard to draw speed or even draw resistance.

The fact that I just finished an IH that goes through this entire heating range within the battery charge going from 12.6v to 9v helps me make these determinations. Extensive testing over the last several days has brought to light some of the more hidden nuances of these devices, both the VC and the IH. I've decided that a slow roast on-demand IH really needs input voltage regulation. Think MOD level voltage control. That will be a next class of IH's for them to remain useful and portable. Desktop units can do this now as voltage can be managed as simply as changing the input power brick or running a DC-DC converter. There is even an effort to determine how long a wire can tame an IH :clap:
 
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