Dynavap VapCap

[crudo]

damn i cant decide.
omni or dynavap xl.
spinning one is not a must have. i just thought, it would be a nice to have.

The XL Omni kit comes with the 2 torch flame, the m 2020 kit with the tripple. =)

 

[phattpiggie]

@Dynalowrider not to mention the QA involved in checking every piece.
Can't say for certain but I'd imagine the majority of the crud in the condensers is there when the tube arrives at DV.
It may be some kind of graphite based lubricant being used in the tube die.

 

[VegNVape]

Didn't we have warning label in the package for a while? I seem to remember one, but it may have been another vendor.

Yeah a warning label - that's all it would take, but there was nothing with my condensor and although I haven't bought an actual DV vape for some years now, from recent reactions I'm guessing there's no mention of cleaning prior to use as a note going out with the current batch of M's?

Why is a few quick swipes with a qtip and ISO through the condenser and tip so onerous?

I don't think anyone is really implying this is particularly onerous as most of us already do it, but just being advised it is a requirement to do so before use would be good. I mentioned in my previous post, as good practice I clean all my vapes as much as possible before using them so this was completely normal for me - except for what seemed to be a lot of black residue coming from a very small tube.

I'm AllGood anyway, as are most here on FC (plus I've still got several liters of iso ), but I don't think it's very nice for many people who are completely new to dry herb vaping and want to try it out without investing too heavily, so they make the solid choice of trying out the VapCap - but would not give a second thought to taking it apart and cleaning it before use. That's pretty harsh, imo. Lot's of people don't think about manufacturing methods & what may be left behind.

So just to be clear, imo, DynaVap (@VapCap) does not necessarily need to remove this residue themselves, but if they don't, they should definitely be telling us that we should be doing it ourselves, before use - even though it seems most of us here do it anyway

 

[thejackalsmark]

​

Yeah a warning label - that's all it would take, but there was nothing with my condensor and although I haven't bought an actual DV vape for some years now, from recent reactions I'm guessing there's no mention of cleaning prior to use as a note going out with the current batch of M's?

I don't think anyone is really implying this is particularly onerous as most of us already do it, but just being advised it is a requirement to do so before use would be good. I mentioned in my previous post, as good practice I clean all my vapes as much as possible before using them so this was completely normal for me - except for what seemed to be a lot of black residue coming from a very small tube.

I'm AllGood anyway, as are most here on FC (plus I've still got several liters of iso ), but I don't think it's very nice for many people who are completely new to dry herb vaping and want to try it out without investing too heavily, so they make the solid choice of trying out the VapCap - but would not give a second thought to taking it apart and cleaning it before use. That's pretty harsh, imo. Lot's of people don't think about manufacturing methods & what may be left behind.

So just to be clear, imo, DynaVap (@VapCap) does not necessarily need to remove this residue themselves, but if they don't, they should definitely be telling us that we should be doing it ourselves, before use - even though it seems most of us here do it anyway

Been right there on the Use And Care card that has come with ALL my dynavaps.

It's a :

" There. We complied with federal regs."

style warning, but it IS there, guys. lol

I'm a Non-trusting sort, anyway AND once done factory/shop work....

I ALWAYS clean something like this and give em a DRY run or two BEFORE I ever pack em, cause I KNOW....

Factories and Metal Shops are DIRTY places.

Fact Of Life.

Clean your shit FIRST folks. Peace of Mind is worth a few minutes.

Happy Vaping!

 

[VegNVape]

@thejackalsmark - ah that's good! Thanks for that. This is what @cybrguy obviously had a vague recollection of - but I'm surprised nobody else has mentioned or confirmed this in the past few pages or recently.

I didn't get that note as a reminder with my condensor but I'm pleased it's in there with full kits.

There, everyone just needs to remember to rtfm FIRST, and then they can choose to clean it if they want to, or not.

Happy Daze

**EDIT** Oops! Actually, it looks like I didn't properly read the note in the first place! because re-reading it, I realise it only mentions burn-offs - that would not have rid my condensor of the residue I removed with iso. So, no, on second thoughts that is not the correct advice & should definitely be changed to include iso wiping all parts including the inside of the condensor.

O.k. I'm done now.

 

[Siebter]

I don't see the warning advising to clean the device. Two burnoffs won't get rid of what we are talking about here.

 

[crudo]

Can somehelp please help me decide, if I want the omnivap or the dynavap m 2020? Money does not matter here. I saved enough for this day. now im here and cant decide. help please
i tried the m 2020 once and loved it. now im thinking, will i love the omnivap even more?

 

[RustyOldNail]

Can somehelp please help me decide, if I want the omnivap or the dynavap m 2020? Money does not matter here. I saved enough for this day. now im here and cant decide. help please
i tried the m 2020 once and loved it. now im thinking, will i love the omnivap even more?

If money is no issue, have you thought about a Simrell with Ti tip? Just received mine, setting the 20m to the side.

 

[crudo]

Simrell

Never heard of simrell before. im checking this out. can you show us some pics and tell us something about it?

edit: oh i see. it uses the ti tip with their own stem. looks nice, but is it nicer?

 

[Siebter]

@crudo – I always recommend getting an M first, because even if money is not an issue, I suppose you don't exactly want to burn it, do you? If you like the general concept, you can always upgrade and then will have a cool backup, if not you lost a few bucks. In the meantime you will have a better idea what for example the Omni concept, induction heaters or custom stems can do for you.

Performancewise (vapor quality etc.) the M is not much different from the higher endish models.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Never heard of simrell before. im checking this out. can you show us some pics and tell us something about it?

edit: oh i see. it uses the ti tip with their own stem. looks nice, but is it nicer?

Like many that have tried it, YES. Superior vape, there is a Simrell thread here, and obviously YouTube reviews, like Troy at 420vapezone:

https://420vapezone.com/simrell-vortex-stem-dynavap/

 

[TommyDee]

I can get a much more thorough heating, with more heat soak, with a single-flame torch than I could ever get with an IH. Don't get me wrong, I use my IH when I want convenience over quality...but when flavor and efficiency is of utmost importance, no IH could beat my single flame torch...at least not an IH that I am aware of.

If it were purely about getting enough heat to the cap, then you could use a huge torch flame that only takes a couple seconds to heat, like our known and loved Big Shot. Unfortunately, in a situation like that, the very outside layer in the bowl would be scorched and the center would be untouched. A slower heat-soak is where you want to be for flavor and efficiency.

I have no reason to doubt your finding as I don't do a torch on my VC but it makes sense that a slower heating will allow the heat to distribute more homogeneously that a sudden excitement of only a select group of electrons. However, would you agree that it is possible that a reduced power level on the IH could also mimic that torch experience?

 

[Siebter]

One major difference between induction and torch heating is the convection / conduction-ratio; the heat up time with an IH (typically) is much shorter than when torching the cap, which also means less time for conduction. I do think that induction heating feels quite a bit more convectionesque.

So yeah, a longer induction heating time should mimic the torching effect I guess.

 

[RustyOldNail]

One major difference between induction and torch heating is the convection / conduction-ratio; the heat up time with an IH (typically) is much shorter than when torching the cap, which also means less time for conduction. I do think that induction heating feels quite a bit more convectionesque.

So yeah, a longer induction heating time should mimic the torching effect I guess.

Interesting, thought my SKJ IH 15 second cycle was a negative, it’s slow to compared to the quick 6-10 seconds the IH heaters designed for a DV, smaller hole, tighter coils. Maybe it’s a plus.

 

[Siebter]

@RustyOldNail – Yeah, I do think that short heat up times are just one aspect and that there are more to consider.

My IH (Mag Heater Pro) makes the cap click in 5 seconds, 3 seconds when it's warm, it allows about one bonus second after the click for more toastiness. I used to have a Portside Mini which made the cap click in ~8 seconds, did not really allow extra time, but gave me hard hits every single time. They both work excellent, but feel totally different for me.

 

[TommyDee]

I suspect it is but there is a balance. Then again, I am a huge advocate for variable power levels on the IH offerings. It can even be done with a little effort.

The obvious difference between the ZVS circuit is quite significant but I do not know in what way. The coil too uses a finer gauge wire and a lot more of it. And I believe it has a sensing coil to turn the unit on so it doesn't get hot just sitting there. In many ways, it is a lot more heater and more on a proper pricing structure for commercial goods. Before we made them popular apparently, they were going for around $30.

 

[joner]

Got my 2020 M Friday....upgraded this year to check out the "advancements". I had a 2018 M that I had upgraded to ti-tip about a year ago. I liked the idea of a SS adjustable bowl (I only use the half sized bowl on my ti-tip, and SS seems to work well in COLD weather), and the chiral airports. 2019 M didn't seem worth upgrading to from the 2018.

Back to the 2020 M: I don't like the tip or cap. Cap clicks too soon, 2 clicks are too close together, tip takes too long to heat up, and the combo of two don't seem to allow for as efficient of vaporization as those of old. The captive cap is too hard to get off while things are hot, and the cap seems too tight overall. Airflow is good, but almost too good? Can't seem to get those nice mtl hits that I'm used to.

After a few bowls testing, finding it hard to brown the herb, I put my 18 cap back on. Still struggled to get the tip up to temp it seemed, but did work better. Ultimately I ended up putting my ti tip and old cap on the 2020 M stem. I do enjoy the chiral airports and stem. A little harder to find the airports than on my 18, but it feels nice in hand.

I hope this isn't the direction Dynavap is going with all of their gear. It seems too cool, a lot harder to get those nice full bodied hits. If it is, I'd like to stock up on og ti-tips and caps.

 

[TommyDee]

@joner - yes, you see exactly what I saw.

Squeeze the cap to disengage the new detents. Or squeeze the detents with a quality pair of pliers like a Leatherman tools or something. You want to tame that crimp a little.

...and swab the condenser and the stem.

Best combo for the VC in my household -if- I were to use the stem;
Definitely XL for cooling purposes with a wooden mouthpiece. Just because wood is better.
'18 cap. Solid click profile with good separation. Very good on the IH with excellent coupling with the '18 tip.
'19 tip. W/ reversed CCD, is a 'mouth breather'. This thing hits like nothing before. Finally, a steady flow of vape-liquor. IH coupling is 85% of the '18 tip/cap combo.
'20 housing. We've got style and the ability to adjust the bleed on the air-port with the 'centering o-ring'. Remove the last o-ring from the tip to have a nice stylish XL.

@crudo - Omni is another level over XL. Basically you get 'precision control' over the air-bleed into your vape stream.

@thejackalsmark - we're dealing with scale from making the tubes, not the final machining of the tubes. That is why it is so difficult to remove and requires so many passes. Scale is the slag of the forming process. It is by definition the contaminants and oxidized metals from the smelting and cooling process. nothing to do with machining.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I suspect it is but there is a balance. Then again, I am a huge advocate for variable power levels on the IH offerings. It can even be done with a little effort.

The obvious difference between the ZVS circuit is quite significant but I do not know in what way. The coil too uses a finer gauge wire and a lot more of it. And I believe it has a sensing coil to turn the unit on so it doesn't get hot just sitting there. In many ways, it is a lot more heater and more on a proper pricing structure for commercial goods. Before we made them popular apparently, they were going for around $30.

Indeed, the DIY IH maker that can add the convenience of the activation sensor the SKJ has, and a variable power selector, would kill the market. Of course you would need some more safe guards, if it have auto on, like a safety off timer. The SKJ times off in 15 seconds, after running 4 heat cycles, and then you can immediately dip back in if you don’t get the 1st click, so I normally have to go back in for 2 heat cycles, when tip is cold. Next heat up with same warm load, the click comes at the end of the 4th cycle. Look forward to one day getting a 3- 18650 portable.

 

[crudo]

@crudo[/USER] - Omni is another level over XL. Basically you get 'precision control' over the air-bleed into your vape stream.

you mean the omni xl over the m? :-D

 

[TommyDee]

Sorry yes, the XL is just a longer M. The Omni is actually a metering device inside. It's the difference between using fuel injection on your car or pouring gas directly into the intake. I prefer the ladder myself

@RustyOldNail - A sense ring can be done with discrete components easily enough. Even timers can be done without a central processor. What would be fun is a 'power accumulation' circuit. Wrong forum for the discussion, but yes, there is so much that could be done in the next-level IH.

 

[joner]

@joner - yes, you see exactly what I saw.

Squeeze the cap to disengage the new detents. Or squeeze the detents with a quality pair of pliers like a Leatherman tools or something. You want to tame that crimp a little.

I squeezed the cap to loosen it, but it's still too cumbersome to pull off when hot. squeeezing the detents may make it a little more like the old caps, I don't know, but even my old cap on the new tip was too tight. It may have something to do with the mass of SS retaining much more (or just more to the point that you can't really touch it) heat than the Ti tip. With my ti tip I can pull the cap off directly after the cool down click, even before if I have to. I definitely could not do that without a lot of hopping around like a bunny with the new tip. I don't remember how comfortable the 18 tip was to grab a hold of.....

 

[MinnBobber]

I can get a much more thorough heating, with more heat soak, with a single-flame torch than I could ever get with an IH. Don't get me wrong, I use my IH when I want convenience over quality...but when flavor and efficiency is of utmost importance, no IH could beat my single flame torch...at least not an IH that I am aware of.

If it were purely about getting enough heat to the cap, then you could use a huge torch flame that only takes a couple seconds to heat, like our known and loved Big Shot. Unfortunately, in a situation like that, the very outside layer in the bowl would be scorched and the center would be untouched. A slower heat-soak is where you want to be for flavor and efficiency.

—————————-
Like TommyD said, I think this slow heat up can be achieved with IH heater. I do it all the time with Portside mini.
I Heat the approx 9 second heat up in 3 phases. A little
one second draw after each to spread the heat evenly.
Very even load. No big deal to just adjust to a slower heat up.

 

[BabyFacedFinster]

Does anyone else besides Simrell make a condenserless Ti stem? I'm waiting for more options. I've seen Andy Capp's stems but they require a condenser.

 

[ontopofclouds]

Got my 2020 M Friday....upgraded this year to check out the "advancements". I had a 2018 M that I had upgraded to ti-tip about a year ago. I liked the idea of a SS adjustable bowl (I only use the half sized bowl on my ti-tip, and SS seems to work well in COLD weather), and the chiral airports. 2019 M didn't seem worth upgrading to from the 2018.

Back to the 2020 M: I don't like the tip or cap. Cap clicks too soon, 2 clicks are too close together, tip takes too long to heat up, and the combo of two don't seem to allow for as efficient of vaporization as those of old. The captive cap is too hard to get off while things are hot, and the cap seems too tight overall. Airflow is good, but almost too good? Can't seem to get those nice mtl hits that I'm used to.

After a few bowls testing, finding it hard to brown the herb, I put my 18 cap back on. Still struggled to get the tip up to temp it seemed, but did work better. Ultimately I ended up putting my ti tip and old cap on the 2020 M stem. I do enjoy the chiral airports and stem. A little harder to find the airports than on my 18, but it feels nice in hand.

I hope this isn't the direction Dynavap is going with all of their gear. It seems too cool, a lot harder to get those nice full bodied hits. If it is, I'd like to stock up on og ti-tips and caps.

Yeah I've been seeing a lot of comments echoing what you're saying amongst various dynavap/vape communities.

Operating under the premise then that these new caps aren't quite as good as the older caps, what's the consensus on what the best caps would be? 2019? 2018?