Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
I love the combi mouthpiece with the dimpled bent glass stem and only use the stock wood mouthpiece as wpa. Caps are covenient when outside.
A set of SS coils, in case you want to try TC.
Dreamwood Glow
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
I love the combi mouthpiece with the dimpled bent glass stem and only use the stock wood mouthpiece as wpa. Caps are covenient when outside.
A set of SS coils, in case you want to try TC.
I need advice.
I’m using a Samsung 21700 T40 with aegis Max100 that’s powering my Dreamwood Glow RCV18. I vape at 58-61W which I see is way more than most people use. I had to add another oring to seal the mouthpiece cause it was leaking, before i had to vape at 70W.
My question is, should I switch that battery to a Samsung T30 or a Molicel P42A for better performance? Right now it’s default setup with dual kanthal coils.
Also please tell me what kind of ss316l clapton wire is optimal for non glowing TC setup? Simply 20 gauge? Should I go for the thicker one? How do I know it’s the correct one? I’m going to order online, because it seems we don’t have wires that thick in our vape shops across the country.
I’m using a Samsung 21700 T40 with aegis Max100 that’s powering my Dreamwood Glow RCV18. I vape at 58-61W which I see is way more than most people use. I had to add another oring to seal the mouthpiece cause it was leaking, before i had to vape at 70W.
My question is, should I switch that battery to a Samsung T30 or a Molicel P42A for better performance? Right now it’s default setup with dual kanthal coils.
Also please tell me what kind of ss316l clapton wire is optimal for non glowing TC setup? Simply 20 gauge? Should I go for the thicker one? How do I know it’s the correct one? I’m going to order online, because it seems we don’t have wires that thick in our vape shops across the country.
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
Each of those three batteries can provide the power required But 58-61W seems a lot and it can cause batteries to age sooner, maybe that is the problem with the T40.
The airpath has to be sealed. Also check for leakage between tha rda and the body.
For TC I have mostly used the SS coils from Dreamwood but you can use other coils no problem.
Gotta find your balance between total mass & heat exchange surface, possibly in the 0,15-0,3ohm range.
The airpath has to be sealed. Also check for leakage between tha rda and the body.
For TC I have mostly used the SS coils from Dreamwood but you can use other coils no problem.
Gotta find your balance between total mass & heat exchange surface, possibly in the 0,15-0,3ohm range.
chrismaddahl
Well-Known Member
Hi all 
the last few years I used a Splinter and Wismec Predator in TC mode.
I want to replicate my smoking style from the Splinter in TC mode with my new Dreamwood Glow 18.
My Splinter I used this way:
Setup was in TC mode with Arctic Fox.
I set Temp 170°C when I wanted mild and easy vaping
180°C if needed a bit more punch and very faint clouds
with 190°C I got nice clouds, a bit harsh but not bad
anything over 195°C is starting to get to harsh for my taste and isn't used normally.
I don't know if the set temps are identical with real temps, but it doesn't really matter.
I get with that style always consitent and expected results.
Can anyone recommend some settings a for Dreamwood Glow 18 for TC mode in similar style?
Or what settings do I have to fine tune in Arctic Fox to reach my preferred style?
This is my starting point, I set it up the same way as the Predator with Splinter hoping I could use it to start the finetune from that.
The only value I changed to test sofar was Temperature.
But I tried from 170 up to 220°C, but I never got any real hot air. It got warm but not hot enough to vape.
Is use SS316 coils in the Glow.
As 510 boxmod I use a old Wismec RX200S with three new Molicel INR18650-P26A.
Running on Arctic Fox Firmware 190624.
Thank you for any suggestions or ideas :-)
the last few years I used a Splinter and Wismec Predator in TC mode.
I want to replicate my smoking style from the Splinter in TC mode with my new Dreamwood Glow 18.
My Splinter I used this way:
Setup was in TC mode with Arctic Fox.
I set Temp 170°C when I wanted mild and easy vaping
180°C if needed a bit more punch and very faint clouds
with 190°C I got nice clouds, a bit harsh but not bad
anything over 195°C is starting to get to harsh for my taste and isn't used normally.
I don't know if the set temps are identical with real temps, but it doesn't really matter.
I get with that style always consitent and expected results.
Can anyone recommend some settings a for Dreamwood Glow 18 for TC mode in similar style?
Or what settings do I have to fine tune in Arctic Fox to reach my preferred style?
This is my starting point, I set it up the same way as the Predator with Splinter hoping I could use it to start the finetune from that.
The only value I changed to test sofar was Temperature.
But I tried from 170 up to 220°C, but I never got any real hot air. It got warm but not hot enough to vape.
Is use SS316 coils in the Glow.
As 510 boxmod I use a old Wismec RX200S with three new Molicel INR18650-P26A.
Running on Arctic Fox Firmware 190624.
Thank you for any suggestions or ideas :-)
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
First of all, lock your cold resistance!Hi all
the last few years I used a Splinter and Wismec Predator in TC mode.
I want to replicate my smoking style from the Splinter in TC mode with my new Dreamwood Glow 18.
My Splinter I used this way:
Setup was in TC mode with Arctic Fox.
I set Temp 170°C when I wanted mild and easy vaping
180°C if needed a bit more punch and very faint clouds
with 190°C I got nice clouds, a bit harsh but not bad
anything over 195°C is starting to get to harsh for my taste and isn't used normally.
I don't know if the set temps are identical with real temps, but it doesn't really matter.
I get with that style always consitent and expected results.
Can anyone recommend some settings a for Dreamwood Glow 18 for TC mode in similar style?
Or what settings do I have to fine tune in Arctic Fox to reach my preferred style?
This is my starting point, I set it up the same way as the Predator with Splinter hoping I could use it to start the finetune from that.
The only value I changed to test sofar was Temperature.
But I tried from 170 up to 220°C, but I never got any real hot air. It got warm but not hot enough to vape.
Is use SS316 coils in the Glow.
As 510 boxmod I use a old Wismec RX200S with three new Molicel INR18650-P26A.
Running on Arctic Fox Firmware 190624.
Thank you for any suggestions or ideas :-)
Can you go hotter? What's the temp on the display when then coils barely glows? Maybe your coils doesn't have enough surface area to transfer enough heat to the passing air?
I recommend these coils, it's a bit tricky to made them fit well (need to make sure to build them tightly onto the deck, without touching each other and the walls) but they're giving me great results, even with low temp vaping.
chrismaddahl
Well-Known Member
I am using the SS316 coils from Dreamwood.
That tip with cold resistance was helpful.
And I started reading this thread backwards and found on page 42 some very good infos in this post:
Looks very promising, have to test it this evening with some herb.
That tip with cold resistance was helpful.
And I started reading this thread backwards and found on page 42 some very good infos in this post:
Dreamwood Glow
Hi, I would like to continue this thread :) I just registered, because I read the whole 41 pages and am still undecided between the RCV 14 and 18 Version. I live in Germany, so purchase is easy. As of this time the 14 costs 129€ (v3 Version, new cylindrical shape), comes with a glass mouth...
fuckcombustion.com
Looks very promising, have to test it this evening with some herb.
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Any idea if Dreamwood still offers the SS316 coils? Not seeing them on the site. Tempted to try some others I have. Just need to be over .10 ohms, correct?
chrismaddahl
Well-Known Member
Yes they do, I just bought them a few days ago:
DIY-Coil Mix Twisted SS316, 4 Stück, für Dreamwood Glow RCV - Greendream Vaporizer, Headshop und Raucherzubehör
DIY , nicht fertig angepasst. 4 Stück Coils zum selber Ausrichten und Anpassen. Die Coils sind gewickelt und teils vorgefertigt. Siehe Bilder. Material: SS 316 Edelstahl Draht: Mix Twisted
chrismaddahl
Well-Known Member
I did now test the new settings from this setup . Looking very good. Only thing to change is:
With this new setup I have to increase the temperature to 210°C to get same expected results as with my splinter with 190°C.
I know this is technically just a cosmetic issue, but how can I adjust that?
(Would be cool when both vapes produced identical results at the same displayed temps.)
Do I have to increase the resistance value to produce more heat?
With this new setup I have to increase the temperature to 210°C to get same expected results as with my splinter with 190°C.
I know this is technically just a cosmetic issue, but how can I adjust that?
(Would be cool when both vapes produced identical results at the same displayed temps.)
Do I have to increase the resistance value to produce more heat?
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
With TCR 200 and resistance locked at 0,138 ohm you can shift the temp on screen from 210c to 190c locking 0,142 instead of 0,138 ohm as cold resistance or you can use 223 instead of 200 as TCR.
I am glad you like my setup. That was for my very first coils with 5 wraps.
Now I am using the same Dreamwood ss coils with 6 wraps each, cold resistance locked is 0,140 ohm.
I usually keep the air intake half closed. If you feel the the mod can’t keep temp stable during the hit rise W or close a bit the air intake. I’d suggest the second option.
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Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
Yep. If I could just pick a number I’d like the cold res to sit between 0,15 and 0,25 ohm, but I’ve used 0,14 ohm coils at 40W with a P80 without any issue and now I am also using a 0,089 ohm dual Zirconium coil setup with a Dna100c mod.
When cold res is that low TC precision can’t be high so not my first choice.
chrismaddahl
Well-Known Member
I am using 0,125 ohm, like in your setup.
I just tested with device monitor:
With 0,138 ohm and TCR200 I get constant 40W power draw when firing and drawing, it never goes down
With 0,125 ohm and TCR200 I get a short heatup with 40W, then it drops down to almost 0, and when I draw I get a some what constant power draw in range of 15W to almost 35W, depending on my temperature setting.
I know changed to TCR220 and I think that fixed my problem. Results are now compareable to my splinter.
The next time I will experiment with air intake, so far it was always fully open.
At the moment I am way to high from all the testing to do any more testing.
It was a really big help to have that as starting point.
Especially the PID setting seems very good and I would have never figured that out by myself.
And I tried without PID, that was just bad.
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
I feel like, even if Range-P-I is perfect, having too much airflow sorta limits contact time too much, so the system is less efficient and the hit less full… I only use it fully open with a water piece.
To tune Range-P-I is rewarding but requires some skills for sure.
I can definitely relate about the testing involved
SilvaVapor
Active Member
Got myself a Glow to replace my broken Impcog. Seems very well made, especially the deck compared to the impcog. No hexbolts is a plus for me, given how the impcog got broken. Already put some stock SS316 coils in and I'll feel much safer changing coil setups, if I want to really get it performing as best as possible(suspect it would perform better with bigger coils). An airflow ring, naturally seems better than putting holes in the chamber to pull air over the coils. I think I've found the sweet spot on the airflow ring for my tastes and it's nice to have the option to open it up or close it off further, depending on how the session is going.
I've copied the articfox settings over from the impcog profile I had, kept the PI-Reg settings, tweaked some of the rest. Pleased with the performance so far but the real comparison will be when I have a glass stem. I wont share any profiles yet, until I've used it a lot more and I'm considering(unsure if it's necessary) a pre-heat curve in the first 5 seconds, so I don't have to wait. However, I might just leave it as is, so I don't have to worry about coil glow as I bump up the temp to finish a bowl off to the colour I'm satisfied with.
I do have some questions for those who've had one a while and figured out the best deals(struggling to find what I want on aliexpress).
I was wondering if anyone knows where to source any cheap options on:
Dosing caps - stock are 12mm diameter on the top/lid. Are the Tinymight or the Fury Edge ones on AliExpress the same dimensions as the ones that dreamwood sells?
Glass cooling stems - I will probably get the standard cheap one(glass screen) from dreamwood and fill it with glass balls but just wondering if any of those 3D stems for other vapes fit. The fancier ones on dreamwood are quite pricey being custom made and all.
I've noted the connection end has the conical water pipe adapter shape (18mm+) on the ones he sells. However i'm thinking a straight one should fit and I've meaured the stock mouthpeice at 17mm outer diameter(odd size I guess).
Any links or pointers in the right direction welcome.
I've copied the articfox settings over from the impcog profile I had, kept the PI-Reg settings, tweaked some of the rest. Pleased with the performance so far but the real comparison will be when I have a glass stem. I wont share any profiles yet, until I've used it a lot more and I'm considering(unsure if it's necessary) a pre-heat curve in the first 5 seconds, so I don't have to wait. However, I might just leave it as is, so I don't have to worry about coil glow as I bump up the temp to finish a bowl off to the colour I'm satisfied with.
I do have some questions for those who've had one a while and figured out the best deals(struggling to find what I want on aliexpress).
I was wondering if anyone knows where to source any cheap options on:
Dosing caps - stock are 12mm diameter on the top/lid. Are the Tinymight or the Fury Edge ones on AliExpress the same dimensions as the ones that dreamwood sells?
Glass cooling stems - I will probably get the standard cheap one(glass screen) from dreamwood and fill it with glass balls but just wondering if any of those 3D stems for other vapes fit. The fancier ones on dreamwood are quite pricey being custom made and all.
I've noted the connection end has the conical water pipe adapter shape (18mm+) on the ones he sells. However i'm thinking a straight one should fit and I've meaured the stock mouthpeice at 17mm outer diameter(odd size I guess).
Any links or pointers in the right direction welcome.
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Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
There are a lot of great options for cooling stems, that you can find with 18 mm male connection, the Rogue wax works, Good Vibes Boro, pyro tech 508phineas, JoDa glass and many more other places
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Like Snacks said, these are all excellent options. I have multiple stems from GVB and Phineas. Really liking the 18mm option from Zasquatch. And I have one of the custom cooling stems from Dreamwood. The screen in my Dreamwood is set deep enough where bottoming out has not been a problem, so every 18mm stem and adapter I’ve tried so far has fit perfectly. When you say stock SS stems @SilvaVapor, do you mean stock from Dreamwood or ones you have from your Impcog? I have a pack of extras from my Impcog and thinking about trying them in my Glow. Any install tips? Never installed coils before.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
SilvaVapor
Active Member
Thanks for the suggestions everyone, just what I was hoping for. I thought I might as well share my articfox profile to show my thanks, even though I haven't used it with glass stems yet, I honestly don't think I will need to alter this much after using it the past few weeks with the wooden stem.
https://www.mediafire.com/file/m0lm...mwood_Glow_-_ArticFox-cfg_28-12-2024.afc/file
There's two profiles the P1 is my go to with my PI-Reg values, P2 is the ones XpeeN suggested earlier in the thread. I did find my 15 seconds power cutoff limit was too short(so annoying when you're just starting to get good vapor and it cuts out) so I bumped that up to 20 seconds. I start at 320F(or lower) and work my way up to a maximum of 450F(light coil glow). Your start temp and the resistance value are the things that might be different depending on your usage style and coil setup.
I have some wirecutters now, got them dirt cheap since I saw them in the aliexpress "pick 3 and save" offers, didn't have to pay delivery and discovered can pick up to 10 items from the available deals.
I will probably get a cheap coil jig off there too at some point. Just because even with pre-built coils, sometimes when positioning the coils, it's better to poke something through the center to keep their shape. My precision screwdriver did the trick but I'm not sure of the diameter... looks fine and works fine though.
As for a guide, I honestly found this as helpful as I needed:
Skip the coil building part and also doing it attached to your mod rather than an Ohms reader, is fine too. That's what I do. You should pay atention to the shape and length of the legs on the stock Kanthal coils and which posts they screw into. Also note where the coils sit in relation to the air holes underneath them. You want as much air being pulled directly over the coils as possible. I used one of the kanthal coils as a guide for where to bend the L shape and where to cut the wire.
After you've secured the coils in place and are happy with their position, height in relation to the deck, snipping any legs that are poking out of the posts etc... Set the resistance, bump up the temperature until you start to see them glowing and take note of any parts that aren't glowing as bright as the rest, you just need to brush these parts gently with the tweezers until you get as close to a uniform glow across the coil as possible. Sorry if I've over explained or not explained enough but that's how I made sense of it anyway.
I'll share what I did find on Ali too:
200mm 14mm 18mm male Dimpled 3D Cooling Glass Mouthpiece tube stem(looks nice but a bit long):
Bent 14mm 18mm male Glass Mouthpiece tube stem(looks ok for the price, not sure on the shape though...):
Angled L Shaped 14mm 18mm male Glass Mouthpiece tube stem:
I was thinking about pulling the trigger on that last one. But unsure how hard it would be to get some glass balls in there and to clean.
https://www.mediafire.com/file/m0lm...mwood_Glow_-_ArticFox-cfg_28-12-2024.afc/file
There's two profiles the P1 is my go to with my PI-Reg values, P2 is the ones XpeeN suggested earlier in the thread. I did find my 15 seconds power cutoff limit was too short(so annoying when you're just starting to get good vapor and it cuts out) so I bumped that up to 20 seconds. I start at 320F(or lower) and work my way up to a maximum of 450F(light coil glow). Your start temp and the resistance value are the things that might be different depending on your usage style and coil setup.
I mean the ones from Dreamwood. I made sure to add some to my order to save on postage. Shame the standard glass stem wasn't available when I ordered. You should just give it a try with the impcog coils.
First, I would recommend some propper wire cutters, I used some scissors which did the trick fine but it would have been easier with the right tool. For the rest you could probably get by with what dreamwood included in the box(screwdriver, those tweezers) just fine.
I have some wirecutters now, got them dirt cheap since I saw them in the aliexpress "pick 3 and save" offers, didn't have to pay delivery and discovered can pick up to 10 items from the available deals.
I will probably get a cheap coil jig off there too at some point. Just because even with pre-built coils, sometimes when positioning the coils, it's better to poke something through the center to keep their shape. My precision screwdriver did the trick but I'm not sure of the diameter... looks fine and works fine though.
As for a guide, I honestly found this as helpful as I needed:
After you've secured the coils in place and are happy with their position, height in relation to the deck, snipping any legs that are poking out of the posts etc... Set the resistance, bump up the temperature until you start to see them glowing and take note of any parts that aren't glowing as bright as the rest, you just need to brush these parts gently with the tweezers until you get as close to a uniform glow across the coil as possible. Sorry if I've over explained or not explained enough but that's how I made sense of it anyway.
Thanks for this, I did look at this store from the earlier suggestions in this thread but didn't spot this one. Shame about the minimum order but I guess that's still pretty cheap.
Is this a brand or a DHGate store? Any links?
I'll share what I did find on Ali too:
200mm 14mm 18mm male Dimpled 3D Cooling Glass Mouthpiece tube stem(looks nice but a bit long):
Bent 14mm 18mm male Glass Mouthpiece tube stem(looks ok for the price, not sure on the shape though...):
Angled L Shaped 14mm 18mm male Glass Mouthpiece tube stem:
I was thinking about pulling the trigger on that last one. But unsure how hard it would be to get some glass balls in there and to clean.
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