Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
Why do you think that?!
It needs 3 sec to reach the desired temp. After those 3 seconds i can draw how fast/slow/super slow i want.
It's my draw to bring calories to the load.
Dreamwood Glow
- Thread starter oddjobold
- Start date
Why do you think that?!
It needs 3 sec to reach the desired temp. After those 3 seconds i can draw how fast/slow/super slow i want.
It's my draw to bring calories to the load.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
try using it after 8 sec of preheating at 48W then drawing super fast, it's like a ball vape. you said you never used it after 8 sec of preheating (100% open airflow required)
XpeeN
Well-Known Member
Lol ty for that
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
it's not about preheating a low mass system. think about it : all the heavy mass systems need preheating (GS, Supreme, Herborizer, Vanbong, ELEV8R, B0/B1/B2, etc'. even Tetra P80. think about how much the 4 tubes+4 coils weigh. they need at least 20 sec of preheating, w2c etc')
it's about finishing the bowl in 1 fast hit. diversion. like, if somebody had a bad day and needs a strong hit.
not you. I don't think weed should be abused. I abused it and that's also why I stopped. that's a different case tho.
many people would like to do a 1 super fast hit. that's why i think a Stainless sleeve will be a good idea.
but again - think about it - all the heavy mass systems you know need preheating. all of them. name one that does not need.
But just make sure you understand it's not about low mass or high mass heaters. it's about very quick extractions vs slow/medium extractions.
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Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
The Glow is a low mass system. If you preheat the Glow you are talking about preheating a low mass system. The power provided during the preheat rises the temperature of the system. I don’t want to overheat the deck, to make the coils glow nor to expose the load to much heat without drawing cause this would burn terpenes for no reason.
If I want one hit extraction I usually pick up the HLT, and I prefere long draw at lower temp to a quicker draw at higher temp even with this one. If I want to do it with the Glow it’s possible, extend the time of the draw to 15-20s and rise temp only if needed.
I prefere to take a couple of draws to process a basket with the Glow, but can do it in one as well.
If I want one hit extraction I usually pick up the HLT, and I prefere long draw at lower temp to a quicker draw at higher temp even with this one. If I want to do it with the Glow it’s possible, extend the time of the draw to 15-20s and rise temp only if needed.
I prefere to take a couple of draws to process a basket with the Glow, but can do it in one as well.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
that's my point, if you preheat the Glow for 8 seconds, you don't need a HLT! you saved 100$ or so.... in this method.....
and ss sleeve will be awesome for this method IMHO
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
I don’t scortch the wood, I don’t need a sleeve. That wood has seen 6 months of use with wpa and glass, before I had the HLT.
If you feel that it’s needed for your use then do it
I’ve built my HLT for fun, by myself without any kit, not because the Glow could not do something.
Just don’t suggest to other user wattages for Kanthal coils when talking about TC in SS.
If you feel that it’s needed for your use then do it
I’ve built my HLT for fun, by myself without any kit, not because the Glow could not do something.
Just don’t suggest to other user wattages for Kanthal coils when talking about TC in SS.
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GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
the method of 48w with 8 seconds of preheating will work in Stainless coils too I guess.. it just requires super fast draw and airflow 100% opened.. 1 hit fast extraction...
why don't suggest to somebody try using wattage 48w? it requires only few clicks to change from TC to Wattage mode
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Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
I don’t know any reason to go in Power mode once TC and PID are tuned correctly.
SS is a different material than Kanthal and needs more Watts.
I use 55W with my heavier SS coil.
SS is a different material than Kanthal and needs more Watts.
I use 55W with my heavier SS coil.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
when speaking about low mass , you can use higher temp to balance it
high mass , you need lower temp
(Supreme v3 needed 180C, So glow will need 225c or more.. balancing... low mass+higher temp, high mass+lower temp)
I was speaking about Wattage because I didn't know how to replace to SS coils. is there a guide how to replace coils for the glow? thanks
(not that I own one. but maybe in the future)
high mass , you need lower temp
(Supreme v3 needed 180C, So glow will need 225c or more.. balancing... low mass+higher temp, high mass+lower temp)
I was speaking about Wattage because I didn't know how to replace to SS coils. is there a guide how to replace coils for the glow? thanks
(not that I own one. but maybe in the future)
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
you can't get huge clouds with the glow at 180c like u can with the supreme.
why? because the supreme has like a lot more mass than the glow
high mass - can use low temp - getting huge clouds
low mass - need to use higher temp, much higher - to get the same clouds, or closer to it, not sure you can get the same
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GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
but a smaller heater means that is has less of a potential to heat the air. that's why it needs higher temp. think about it. it's smaller, so for giving huge clouds, something has to be balanced. temp.
Why you think people sell today their Supreme in 700$? like 2.8 times higher than OG price? High mass, lower temp, huge clouds. and it's rare ofc, yea
Why you think people sell today their Supreme in 700$? like 2.8 times higher than OG price? High mass, lower temp, huge clouds. and it's rare ofc, yea
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Yes otherwise high surface area heaters wouldn't be a thing. That being said I use my Impcognito daily and it just has two small and basic coils similar to ecigs. It can't rip as hard as a RBT vape or the iHeat though, typical HSA heaters examples (but since I'm taking small puffs and don't want to cash my bowl in a single hit, to the contrary I would say I want it to last as long as possible, like @Fesob_31 enjoys maybe? so it's not an issue)
To answer what was posted while I was typing: the PID keeps the coils at the right temperature, nuance. The amount of heat that can be transferred to the passing air for an instant time is related to the surface area. So your tiny coil might stay at the right temperature but not be delivering sufficient calories to heat a high flow properly.
To answer what was posted while I was typing: the PID keeps the coils at the right temperature, nuance. The amount of heat that can be transferred to the passing air for an instant time is related to the surface area. So your tiny coil might stay at the right temperature but not be delivering sufficient calories to heat a high flow properly.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
You don't answer to the question buddy - why the Supreme can bring HUGE clouds at 180c temp and Glow can't even bring same clouds at 230c? low mass vs high mass
I agree, that's also why many people brought ELEV8R. it has kind of high mass but in a very good price comparing to something like Supreme etc'?
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
Supreme has a huge exchange surface so the thermal flow is based on that.
Glow has tiny coils so less mass and less exchange surface. In this case the thermal flow can be provided by a huge delta T of the coils or dynamically providing all the power needed to avoid cooling the coil during the draw, and this is done via PID.
Glow has tiny coils so less mass and less exchange surface. In this case the thermal flow can be provided by a huge delta T of the coils or dynamically providing all the power needed to avoid cooling the coil during the draw, and this is done via PID.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
The Supreme mass is so big that when you take the draw - you are doing it without heating the metal
The Glow mass is so small that you need power to the coils, during the hit, yes. and the PID makes sure it will be around the temp you set.
180c with the Supreme will bring bigger clouds than Glow at 230c I think
Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
The “amount of heat“ depends on the delta T of coils vs air, the thermal exchange surface and how much air is flowing.
When the desired resistance of the coil is achieved the Glow requires 8W if I don’t draw but goes to 40-55W when I draw. This +40 Watts is not nuances.
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Fesob_31
Well-Known Member
Could you please tell me whet are you talking about? What is the direction?
I said that I don’t see any reason to have a ss sleeve in the Glow cause I don’t scorch the wood and it doesn’t help with the airflow.
You keep telling that maybe with the sleeve you can preheat this low mass system (!) because all the heavy hitters, with high mass, need preheat to finish a bowl with one hit.
In the meantime you don’t answer questions, make wrong assumptions about the behavior of the Glow and constantly shift the topic to the point that there is a Supreme video in the Glow thread.
The Glow with a tuned PID can be heated during the draw. It’s in the screenshot I posted and you keep on asking things without looking at the evidence already out there and already linked.
I said that I don’t see any reason to have a ss sleeve in the Glow cause I don’t scorch the wood and it doesn’t help with the airflow.
You keep telling that maybe with the sleeve you can preheat this low mass system (!) because all the heavy hitters, with high mass, need preheat to finish a bowl with one hit.
In the meantime you don’t answer questions, make wrong assumptions about the behavior of the Glow and constantly shift the topic to the point that there is a Supreme video in the Glow thread.
The Glow with a tuned PID can be heated during the draw. It’s in the screenshot I posted and you keep on asking things without looking at the evidence already out there and already linked.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
I'll explain the thing with a ss sleeve and you can ask me anything, ofc. I will answer your questions. we're having a technical conversation like we did before.
There are 2 ways to using the Glow (Kanthal coils, around 45 watts, wattage mode, air flow 100% opened) :
1) Without preheating - slow/medium draw - because the system is not hot enough, fast/super fast draw will not yield vapor. after few second of the draw, raise your velocity of the draw
2) With 4-10 seconds of preheating - fast/super fast draw, extract the bowl faster. there's more heat in the system - avoiding combustion by fast/super fast draw.
IMHO with the second option there is a need for ss sleeve maybe.
P.S
you keep using the term PID. what did u tune inside of it? what do you know about PID? why did you choose TCR 190? just saying PID all the time is nice, but can you explain what exactly in this PID is helping? or it's the default PID of the mod? how did you choose TCR 190, randomly?
what makes you using the word PID all the time? how you know the coils temp are accurate? you checked it, with equipment?
Because I have a feeling you chose TCR 190 randomly..
what makes your PID tuned? you inserted some kind of a thermometer inside the coils, while you're taking a draw?
I like the fact that you're using the term PID, but explain more deeply what makes yours calibrated etc'. don't just say PID without further explaining.
if you configured something, it's not just configured and that's it. you need to test the coils temp. I am not sure you have done that. "try and fail" you need to check what is really going on while you taking the draw by the coils temp.
There are 2 ways to using the Glow (Kanthal coils, around 45 watts, wattage mode, air flow 100% opened) :
1) Without preheating - slow/medium draw - because the system is not hot enough, fast/super fast draw will not yield vapor. after few second of the draw, raise your velocity of the draw
2) With 4-10 seconds of preheating - fast/super fast draw, extract the bowl faster. there's more heat in the system - avoiding combustion by fast/super fast draw.
IMHO with the second option there is a need for ss sleeve maybe.
P.S
you keep using the term PID. what did u tune inside of it? what do you know about PID? why did you choose TCR 190? just saying PID all the time is nice, but can you explain what exactly in this PID is helping? or it's the default PID of the mod? how did you choose TCR 190, randomly?
what makes you using the word PID all the time? how you know the coils temp are accurate? you checked it, with equipment?
Because I have a feeling you chose TCR 190 randomly..
what makes your PID tuned? you inserted some kind of a thermometer inside the coils, while you're taking a draw?
I like the fact that you're using the term PID, but explain more deeply what makes yours calibrated etc'. don't just say PID without further explaining.
if you configured something, it's not just configured and that's it. you need to test the coils temp. I am not sure you have done that. "try and fail" you need to check what is really going on while you taking the draw by the coils temp.
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XpeeN
Well-Known Member
I don't get why you keep talking about PID and TCR. You guys started the discussion about Wattage mode. TCR, and thus PID, are irrelevant.
@GoldenBud I get your point. the higher temp that the coils reached after the preheat allowing the air to get hotter while passing near the coils and in the meanwhile that air cools the coils down a bit. I won't do 8 secs preheat though because I don't think we need or should get to those temps.
When TCR enters the discussion, all these are irrelevant because we limit the temp* anyway, so the max W is just basically a way to decide how quickly you reach temp, and from there the PI does it's work (* I guess you can play with the PID so you'll temporarly get beyond the set temp, so it might serves a similar role to your preheat).
Edit:
BTW, I don't think he set the TCR randomly. I know I didn't.
@GoldenBud I get your point. the higher temp that the coils reached after the preheat allowing the air to get hotter while passing near the coils and in the meanwhile that air cools the coils down a bit. I won't do 8 secs preheat though because I don't think we need or should get to those temps.
When TCR enters the discussion, all these are irrelevant because we limit the temp* anyway, so the max W is just basically a way to decide how quickly you reach temp, and from there the PI does it's work (* I guess you can play with the PID so you'll temporarly get beyond the set temp, so it might serves a similar role to your preheat).
Edit:
BTW, I don't think he set the TCR randomly. I know I didn't.