Dreamwood Glow

[Fesob_31]

IMHO with the second option there is a need for ss sleeve maybe.

Why is that? What is that sleeve supposed to do, to reach the desired temp earlier and spare a couple of seconds?!
If you believe that the system has a limit for the small size/low thermal exchange surface of the coils then a ss sleeve just could not be the cure.

I use the live monitor sessions with the pc to tune the Range-P-I menu in Artic Fox. But that is just the end of the work.
First step would be to find the working resistance for what you want to do. Then you can try to find how much more or how little less it could be working just fine tuning the technique so you define a range of working resistencies, the boundaries of a working window of resistance. This is the TCR. If the proper equipment is available it would be wise to collect data about the temp of the load. I don’t have that equipment so i’m happy to replicate the performance I can have in power mode but with the proper advantages of TC.
Without equipment it is just my liking to give that range of res a corresponding temp.
But with the live monitor the results are damn consistant.

 

[GoldenBud]

When TCR enters the discussion, all these are irrelevant because we limit the temp

Not sure this is true, you still need to check the temp of the coils with external equipment I think, the mod can show you X and the thermometer can show Y. Need to check what is really going on, not just what the mod shows.

@Fesob_31 sleeve to protect the wood. mostly for Kanthal users. I couldn't replace coils myself, yeah. u got a video for that? not that I have a Glow now.

 

[Fesob_31]

I‘ve posted the pics of coil replacement earlier in this thread, not a guide tho.
I use the original ss coils available ( sx6 ) around 0,140 ohm.
I don’t want to cash a bowl in one hit, that will never be my goal with the Glow.

 

[XpeeN]

Not sure this is true, you still need to check the temp of the coils with external equipment I think, the mod can show you X and the thermometer can show Y. Need to check what is really going on, not just what the mod shows.

Exact temps are not relevant, what matters is that I fixed a resistance. It was just a figure of speech. And I decided about the fixed resistance when I tuned up my TCR after building the coils. Just to make sure, ofc we don't talk about the temp at the bowl, we barely know the coils' actual temp lol, but what we tuned in is more then enough to get top performance.

let's say it this way, you can do your method with ss coils, check the resistance while reaching temp and drawing to get an idea of your favorite resistances , and adjust the TCR to reach those resistance at lets say 220C. from there you can fine tuning it easily, and for fun, you even play with the max watt settings to you can make sure the coils get cooler (they couldn't reach that 220C because they won't have enough power) to replicate your method. I bet we can find much better ways to replicate it though.

 

[Fesob_31]

@Fesob_31 sleeve to protect the wood.

So you don’t agree with yourself?! Just running in circles here.

 

[GoldenBud]

So you don’t agree with yourself?! Just running in circles here.

There is not enough air it seems
My coil didn't touch the wood it was a bit scorched
@Fesob_31 See my sleeve

 

[Fesob_31]

... or maybe this is wrong again and radiant heat doesn't care about air at all.

 

[GoldenBud]

... or maybe this is wrong again and radiant heat doesn't care about air at all.

you mean that the coils transfering heat to the wood via conduction? and radiation is kind of negligible?
if your heater is very close to the wood, it's mostly conduction. not radiation. "Fourier law"
radiation happens in your oven, where the heater is not too close to the plate.

 

[Fesob_31]

you mean that the coils transfering heat to the wood via conduction? and radiation is kind of negligible?

I mean the opposite.
Maybe when driving the coils too hot the wood get scortchefd even if you are drawing fast because the radiant Heat doesn't care at all about air being there or not.

if your heater is very close to the wood, it's mostly conduction. not radiation. "Fourier law"

If you are fast drawing you are creating turbolence when the hot air Is leaving the system. If this Is true then the whole wood should be scortched the same way.
But in facts it turns out that only the wood close to the coils gets scortched so maybe having a source of radiant heat, who doesn't care about the draw, and it's close to the wood plays a role here.

radiation happens in your oven, when the heater is not too close to the plate.

Wrong. Please, don't go tell the sun.
Radiant Heat Is everywhere.
Radiant Heat is much stronger if the distance Is less.

 

[GoldenBud]

Radiant Heat is much stronger if the distance Is less.

it's a small heater, much less radiation than your oven. Mostly conduction
The air layer is too thin imho between the coils and the wood, I know I said before the opposite but it was not accurate

because the layer of the air is very tiny between the coils and the wood, it's conduction. the air is negligible there.

 

[Fesob_31]

I know I said before the opposite but …

You rule out radiant heat without a reason and say one thing and then the opposite, for your convenience.

Have fun, I stop here.

 

[GoldenBud]

You rule out radiant heat without a reason and say one thing and then the opposite, for your convenience.

Have fun, I stop here.

let's do it for real...

Radiated Power Intensity, P (W) = e.s. A. Te^4 where e is the emissivity, Te is the temperature in Kelvin of the emitting surface, and s, is the Stefan-Boltzmann Constant = 5.6703 x 10-8 W/m2K4.

emissivity of ss316 at T=500K~ is something like 0.3 (google)
Te = 500K (temp in Kelvin, +-). T^4 = 6.25*10^10
Boltzmann Constant = 5.6703 x 10-8 W/m2K4
A= Surface area. need m^2. @Fesob_31 please give me the length and the diameter of the coil please, or just multiply it by Pi number. remember D and L in [m] unit please

we'll see how much watts for radiation.

then we'll see if it's negligible or not, vs 45w total, or 48w total
P.S
we got 2 coils, so it's A multiply by 2 I think

if the coil length is 0.02m, and the diameter is 0.005m , multiply this by 3.14*2 coils, we got : 0.67w
even if the temp is 600K it's 1.38w then (wattage mode, super fast draw... so maybe it's 600K temp)

it's negligible .

 

[XpeeN]

Usually I'm a temp step guy that stays on the lower temps. Yesterday I had a mood for high temp session and I was impressed with the results I got. ABV after 4 hits, although I think the 4th one was unnecessary.
ABV (if IMG doesn't work click on the link above):

My setup isn't something special. 2 SS staggered coils 4 wraps each, 0.135OHM cold, 138TCR, used 225C this session. Love my glow

 

[CanikUser19]

For someone who knows nothing about building coils, what are some recommendations for pre-built ready to go out the package SS coils for temp control. I bought extra SS coils for my Impcognito when they were going out of business. Also have some that came with my Shammer. Would those be compatible with a Glow 18?

 

[XpeeN]

For someone who knows nothing about building coils, what are some recommendations for pre-built ready to go out the package SS coils for temp control. I bought extra SS coils for my Impcognito when they were going out of business. Also have some that came with my Shammer. Would those be compatible with a Glow 18?

I don't know how these coils looks like, but I can describe the concept. You install the coils so they'll be directly under the air-slots in a way that the air will flow up between the wraps, as show in this picture (let me know if it doesn't work for you) (316L 20ga 5 wraps. 0.89ohm cold):

You should aim to coils that are as "vertically wide" as possible, that's why I ditched my staggered fused clapton coils I mentioned at a previous comment, which were wide, but vertically they were very thin so when the air pass through them, it passed near less surface area compared to these coils, which helps to heat the air even more. Also I prefer 5 wraps over 4 because, as you can see in the picture, each 2 air-slots have their own separate set of wraps, but in 4 wraps, the middle wrap will be shared, so it'll get a lot cooler. You can use 1 big coil instead of two, but I didn't bother to try it myself, and I know the glow v2 used it, and the v3 switched back to dual coil setup, so I guess it means something.
Feel free to ask questions or discuss about my theory.

On another note, I just got my order of 316L Calpton twisted (Photo link) from AliExpress (Product link), which should increase that "verticality wideness" even more. I could order Hoffa too but I was worried it'd be too wide for dual 5 wraps coils, and I'm not even sure it's better than the clapton twisted ones. It'll take some time until I try it out, but it should be interesting

 

[CanikUser19]

I don't know how these coils looks like, but I can describe the concept. You install the coils so they'll be directly under the air-slots in a way that the air will flow up between the wraps, as show in this picture (let me know if it doesn't work for you) (316L 20ga 5 wraps. 0.89ohm cold):

You should aim to coils that are as "vertically wide" as possible, that's why I ditched my staggered fused clapton coils I mentioned at a previous comment, which were wide, but vertically they were very thin so when the air pass through them, it passed near less surface area compared to these coils, which helps to heat the air even more. Also I prefer 5 wraps over 4 because, as you can see in the picture, each 2 air-slots have their own separate set of wraps, but in 4 wraps, the middle wrap will be shared, so it'll get a lot cooler. You can use 1 big coil instead of two, but I didn't bother to try it myself, and I know the glow v2 used it, and the v3 switched back to dual coil setup, so I guess it means something.
Feel free to ask questions or discuss about my theory.

On another note, I just got my order of 316L Calpton twisted (Photo link) from AliExpress (Product link), which should increase that "verticality wideness" even more. I could order Hoffa too but I was worried it'd be too wide for dual 5 wraps coils, and I'm not even sure it's better than the clapton twisted ones. It'll take some time until I try it out, but it should be interesting

Thank you for this. I’ll have to dig out the coils I have and upload a pic and any other info I can find about them.

 

[XpeeN]

On another note, I just got my order of 316L Calpton twisted (Photo link) from AliExpress (Product link), which should increase that "verticality wideness" even more.

Here we go:

Will update
Edit: works great
So, 5 wraps each, 0.338ohm cold. I used my usual method of limiting as the coils start glowing faintly, which happened for me at 0.440. I limited at "230C" with TCR 140.
I temp stepped from 180C at jumps of 5C up until 230c, which there I've got a nice hit followed by a whisky hits that wasn't worth taking.
ABV:

 

[XpeeN]

Hi guys, I set up another set of coils since then so I wanted to share (it's part of a different discussion about coil design) :

I twisted myself a 3*26ga 316L wire that I had around, I would've try lower gauge but the next lower step I have is 20 and it might be too hard to twist?

It works well too, 0.124 cold with 0.161 as limit at 139TCR. It has a nice range (I start seeing a bit of visible vapor around 160-170C when it "maxed out" at 230C again), which allows either nice temp stepping or a quick few hits at max temp.

The reasons I ditched the my clapton twisted coils are:

1. The setup was just a bit too wide, and left mark on my cover
2. The coils weren't stiff enough, so because of point 1, there was barely any space between the closer legs of each coils, so after a couple of time of short coil between usage (probably put it on the table and it moved? I can't recall really) I had enough.

 

[simba]

Misplaced (probably lost ) my Stempod OG so looking for a new 510 device and the Glow 18 seems like a good choice. Are there any must-have accessories that I should buy?

 

[XpeeN]

Misplaced (probably lost ) my Stempod OG so looking for a new 510 device and the Glow 18 seems like a good choice. Are there any must-have accessories that I should buy?

I love my dimpled stems... There are some budget options at dhgate like yingmin5's dimpled male jhook or straight,shorter ones for outside.
Also, for TC usage try to either get an ArcticFox compatible mod or DNA mod.

 

[Marcus]

Misplaced (probably lost ) my Stempod OG so looking for a new 510 device and the Glow 18 seems like a good choice. Are there any must-have accessories that I should buy?

I've found it pairs brilliantly with my old splinter stems. If I'm honest, I'm not a fan of the wooden stem that comes with the 18 glow, it makes the vapour too dry for me.
I also found my old 18/18 male/male adapters for the splinter and those through a dimpled J hook are excellent too.
The ground glass part is shorter than normal on the splinter stems, so there;s some extra space between them and the heater, as opposed to the normal 18mm glass and wood stems it comes with. For me it seems to make the unit much better to use with that gap.

But yes, glass stems all the way here. Grab a couple and you can preload them, saves me having to go change the bowl in the middle of a film.

 

[simba]

Well as this is going to be used on-the-go mainly then I'll not be using it with any j-hooks or big glass stems. I'm hoping my small glass stempod stem will fit, I think it should which is perfect for portable use.

EDIT - has anyone tried these ceramic coils with the Glow? I really liked using them in the my Stempod OG

SiC Quest NE - Heaters

These are the replacement heaters for the Quartz Quest NE atomizer. They are generally long lasting heaters when used with appropriate settings. We stay within the suggested range of TCR 270 - 50 Watts and run the bucket between 160-260C.

recommendedvapesupplies.co.uk

 

[simba]

Anyone been seeing the Dreamwood Instagram stories recently? Been talking about how difficult it is to make a living in the vape industry and how small it is when compared to the rest of the cannabis industry.

Anyone on the fence about one of these, now might be the time to get one. I put my order in earlier today, made sure to get spares of things too.

 

[simba]

2 days after I ordered they put a 20% sale on all Dreamwood vapes

But hopefully others can take advantage, the code is 'DW20’

 

[Fesob_31]

Dual coil twisted 0,5mm Zirconium wire.

Mass 2 x 0,27 g. Cold resistance locked 0,089 ohm.
I’m using 40W with TCR 540. Temp on screen from 215 to 235 C.
Gets in temp in 3 seconds then stays at 11-14W.
Goes back to 40W when I hit. AVB is even.